Jump to ratings and reviews
Rate this book

American Flannel: How a Band of Entrepreneurs Are Bringing the Art and Business of Making Clothes Back Home

Rate this book
I can confidently say this will be one of my favorite books of 2024.” —Stephen King, bestselling author (and onetime millworker)

American Flannel is a wonderful book--surprising, entertaining, vivid and personal, but also enlightening on the largest questions of America's economic and social future.” —James Fallows, co-author of Our Towns

 
The little-engine-that-could story of how a band of scrappy entrepreneurs are reviving the enterprise of manufacturing clothing in the United States.
 
For decades, clothing manufacture was a pillar of U.S. industry. But beginning in the 1980s, Americans went from wearing 70 percent domestic-made apparel to almost none. Even the very symbol of American freedom and style—blue jeans—got outsourced. With offshoring, the nation lost not only millions of jobs but also crucial expertise and artistry.
 
Dismayed by shoddy imported “fast fashion”—and unable to stop dreaming of re-creating a favorite shirt from his youth—Bayard Winthrop set out to build a new company, American Giant, that would swim against this trend. New York Times reporter Steven Kurutz, in turn, began to follow Winthrop’s journey. He discovered other trailblazers as well, from the “Sock Queen of Alabama” to a pair of father-son shoemakers and a men’s style blogger who almost single-handedly drove a campaign to make “Made in the USA” cool. Eye-opening and inspiring, American Flannel is the story of how a band of visionaries and makers are building a new supply chain on the skeleton of the old and wedding old-fashioned craftsmanship to cutting-edge technology and design to revive an essential American dream.

240 pages, Kindle Edition

Published March 12, 2024

49 people are currently reading
843 people want to read

About the author

Steven Kurutz

7 books7 followers

Ratings & Reviews

What do you think?
Rate this book

Friends & Following

Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!

Community Reviews

5 stars
176 (40%)
4 stars
196 (45%)
3 stars
53 (12%)
2 stars
6 (1%)
1 star
4 (<1%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 51 reviews
Profile Image for Susan Morris.
1,581 reviews21 followers
March 31, 2024
A very interesting & informative book about the American fabric industry & those brave few fighting to keep it alive. The pandemic showed that almost total dependence on goods being made overseas has major flaws, but sadly there aren’t many changes being made. I’d like to buy some of these brands.
Profile Image for KWinks  .
1,311 reviews16 followers
June 12, 2024
In an effort to read more non-fiction, I went over to the shelf Thursday night and just randomly grabbed this. I was into this by the end of the first chapter, and I couldn't figure out why. I'm old enough to remember the "Made in America" labels and the buy American campaigns. I did not grow up in a factory town or have family that worked in manufacturing, but still this idea, it was resonating with something that is deep inside of me. Something that comes out when I look to buy something I need locally and I can't find it (case in point: none of the local stores near me sell woman's tights- I HAD to go to a box store).
This quote, from page 202 by Farhad Manjoo, which I will now paraphrase. He's talking about when covid first landed, how incredibly unprepared the US was to deal with it-because we send so much of our manufacturing overseas. He said, "What a small, shameful way for a strong nation to falter...For want of a seventy-five-cent face mask, the kingdom was lost."
And now I find myself shopping brands that are produced here in the US and, I'm not going to lie, I'm a civil servant, I can't afford 228 trendy jeans, but I can afford one 115 flannel shirt, if I get years of wear out of it. I can afford a beautiful pair of 20 socks if they will last more than a few weeks.
It's time to change my priorities (let's open the conversation about why American workers would have trouble affording brands made in their own country-both because of their low wages and because of how hard it is to produce textiles here.)
This was a great, well written read.
Profile Image for Julie Malone.
88 reviews10 followers
July 24, 2024
I loved this book so much. The book is a robust history of American textile/apparel manufacturing (a brief history, anyway) & the eventual shift towards overseas production. I cried when they were able to cobble together the pieces to create domestic flannel again. I cried when I felt hopeful about the future and resistance to globalization. I cried when I remembered that we have collective amnesia, and will continue to prioritize inexpensive over all else. And I cried as I’m literally currently splitting dollars to produce goods in India to meet the costing goals of a large US retailer. :(
Profile Image for Book.ishJulie.
777 reviews26 followers
June 27, 2024
Steven Kurutz allows readers a glimpse into clothing manufacturing in American Flannel: How A Band Of Entrepreneurs Are Bringing The Art And Business Of Making Clothes Back Home.

A fascinating look at how fast fashion, consumerism, predatory pricing, and marketing has affected (and continues to affect) the American-made apparel industry. Obviously, the information presented is filtered with an American lense, but it is easy to extrapolate the information north across the border as a Canadian.

I was particularly impressed by the ingenuity of factory owners during the pandemic. It was amazing to see how companies banded together to help out their fellow citizens.

Passionate. Timely. Insightful.

Thank you Riverhead Books for the complimentary copy to read and review. And a second thank you to Zkano for the softest feeling socks, which are made in the U.S.A. with organic cotton.
943 reviews83 followers
January 18, 2024
Received as an ARC via my employer Barnes & Noble. Started 1-16-24. Finished 1-18-24. Although Goodreads has this book listed only as Kindle, I actually read the book. A fascinating story of the clothing industry in the US, and how government rules made it hard to compete with foreign manufacturing and the low wages of their employees. The companies that are still making it are using US facilities, US workers, and ingenious methods of production. They are small companies that don't have to deal with competition because their products are so unique and well-made. I suspect that given enough time the companies that went off-shore for their manufacturing will return to the US because of the logistics problems with foreign supply lines. Won't that be great?!
Profile Image for Heather Spiva.
Author 5 books6 followers
June 14, 2024
Wow

As a vintage clothing seller, I have been wanting to read a book like this. Something that supports my zeal and zest for “true” clothing.

It supports my ideals, reinforces the love for authentic clothing, for real clothing; USA made clothing.

We've succumbed to globalization in our modern clothing but I'm thrilled there are still folks like me out there who want quality clothing, want real and classic clothing... In essence, the best of the best. Stuff made the way it used to be made. As a heritage-wearer and lover, this book was a balm to my vintage clothing soul.
Profile Image for Amy Hansen.
180 reviews3 followers
November 30, 2024
Interesting and inspiring read about American textile manufacturing and textile manufacturing in general.
Profile Image for LAErin.
66 reviews5 followers
March 1, 2024
4.5 stars. Informative, well-told and inspiring!
Profile Image for Jessica Kassise.
80 reviews3 followers
September 27, 2025
American Flannel tells the history of textile manufacturing in America. Italy was known for leather; France for lace; and the US had workwear for the laborer… reinforced denim, flannel, blanket jackets, and the like. Functional, quality pieces that lasted. Family-owned manufacturing companies provided entire towns with work and security. Eventually these styles become fashionable and adopted by non-laborers: musicians, hippies, etc as alt-clothing.

Through a series of political moves and trade agreements, textile manufacturing moved off shores. Companies were sold to private equity firms. Cheaper labor. Cheaper materials. Eventually America lost the ability to manufacture textiles in our country entirely, which came to an ugly head during the Covid pandemic, when our country failed to supply our own citizens with PPE. The book also tells of the American makers who are dedicated to the very vulnerable vision of reviving the American textile industry. If a single skilled individual left, the entire company could fall apart.

This book was excellent food for thought. I walked into Bass Pro Shop last week and checked out the tags on Carhartt, Columbia, Natural Reflections. Nothing was made in USA. “Heritage” and workwear are having a fashion moment; I saw “workwear” embroidered on a toddler jacket at old navy. Fast fashion co opting an idea.

I originally rated this 3/5 stars because the book was disjointed. It also read like a long-form magazine article. I enjoy investigative journalism and nonfiction that reads like fiction, but American Flannel was not that. There’s also a multisensory component to this story. Texture, color, feel. I wish I had a documentary or photos to accompany it. However, in writing the review, I increased the rating to 4/5 for its impact on me. I am inspired to alter my consumer choices and pay more attention to where and how my clothes are made. At a values level, I appreciate history and story. I am motivated to support any effort to keep an endangered art and skill alive. After all, these makers embody gumption, an inherently American quality.

My working list of companies. Not a purist list, but a list of companies with a story to support. American Giant (heavily featured in this book, fully American made), Buck Mason (mentioned), Imogene and Willie (mentioned), Citizens of Humanity (featured), Rancourt shoes (featured), Faherty, Reformation, tbco.

This blog features American made brands: https://www.acontinuouslean.com/the-a...
Profile Image for Marks54.
1,568 reviews1,225 followers
June 9, 2025
This is a book by a writer for the NYT about the efforts of a set of entrepreneurs (esp. two focusing on flannel products and specialty socks) to establish businesses making high quality and limited volume clothing items that are fully make in America. The context of this story is the decline of US textile and clothing businesses from a position of strength as late as the 1970s and 1980s to a profile of almost complete offshoring and outsourcing that has become the poster setting for US deindustrialization. The author, in motivating the book, asks not just what happened to promote industry decline but also what types of businesses and products were able to prosper in the US when most of the industry ended up disappearing.

The book is noteworthy on several levels. First, it presents not good portraits of the scrappy entrepreneurs who are able to succeed. Second, Mr. Kurutz focuses in on the need for high quality in whatever product niche is pursued, both in terms of the right type of products to make for the American market and in the requirement for these products to be well made (as opposed to the more disposable “fast fashion” of the worldwide fashion marketer like Zara or H&M). Third, the book effectively turns the accepted business logics/models of cost cutting, low labor costs, private equity, and the squeezing of profit out of troubled firms on its head to suggest that there are viable alternatives to these logics that have often been taken for granted in business schools.

Fourth, while Mr. Kurutz does not address directly the current focus of the Trump tariffs on bringing manufacturing back to America, it is never far from the surface. Sure, tariffs will harm offshore production and help products produced in America. But it isn’t as simple as that and the author hints that the politicization of “made in America” gets in the way of progress. Once the change has occurred, it is difficult to reverse and it is not clear that tariffs will help much. Moreover, globalization has done its work and is likely to persist going forward, so a blanket tariff approach is not a clear solution to the problem either. Manufacturing in America has a complex story that almost certainly varies by industry and geographic location. Promoting it is unlikely to succeed over the short term - or even a full administration - but is likely a long term process that is worth pursuing.

This is an informative and well argued book.

304 reviews
April 5, 2025
How timely with the new round of tariffs....

This book was a fav of Stephen King....who used to be a millworker.

My reading the book was timely with the current round of tariffs, etc.

The book is about the near annihilation of making clothes in the US. Virtually all the machinery & expertise was lost when manufacturing went overseas. Now who knows what will happen. Part of the book is about a re-intro of clothing manufacturing in the US and the challenges involved. The expertise and machinery are virtually extinct, but there are some possibilities...

The book was well researched and well written. Perhaps the author will update or write another book, depending on what happens in the clothing industry.

I finished the book about the time that the last large fabric store (JoAnn's) was closing. Most of my clothes in my earlier years were not only made in US, they were made in my own home. Now that would be very difficult. (The changes in personal sewing was not part of the book but are a micro view of the challenges....equipment, expertise, availability of fabric and notions such as buttons, zippers, thread, elastic).

166 reviews
January 14, 2025
every US citizen needs to read this book

Every US citizen needs to read this book. This country has been shafted by the free traders,Republicans and Democrats, NAFTA and GAFF. We need to do more to encourage US manufacturing capabilities. Biden’s CHIPs act and infrastructure bill was a start. Trump in his second term could do that, rising above the lazy and chaotic governance he exhibited in first term, but his present behavior holds out no hope of that. What would help, is if every citizen write his congressional and state legislators to enact legislation that would help local manufacturers and repeal the dumb ass anti gay, anti abortion legislation that makes right wing-nuts feel good, but damages everyone else.

There are a couple of errors here that need correcting. On page 158, they refer to a nylon spun for the military as a propelling rope. It is actually a 1/4” inch nylon rappelling rope. Also the brave men who rappelled from helicopters in Black Hawk down, were not marines, but US Army Delta Force and US Army Rangers.
Profile Image for bianca .
170 reviews3 followers
June 11, 2024
This has been on my list for a while. The author is a really good writer - I was hooked from the first page. He does a good job of turning the core people he follows into characters. I wish the book spent a little more time on how family wealth is central to reviving American textile manufacturing, more time on the workers’ experience of this industry (past and present), and the political implications of “heritage” and “made in America” patriotism. He spends most of his time emphasizing how American made textiles are better in quality, how the industry roots communities and harnesses exceptional technical capacity, but doesn’t get into it beyond that and I think there’s many more political implications to explore there. Ultimately, for what this book is focused on, I found it engaging, easy to read, informative, and well written. I have a list of companies I’m eager to learn about/shop from.
Profile Image for Donna Neeper.
36 reviews1 follower
December 16, 2025
I gave this 5 stars because I really like the topic. I felt the author stayed with his topic, and the people he wrote about long enough to really offer a true sense of the inside of American apparel manufacturing in this post-covid era. In other words I valued this book! My personal interest in this stems from my dislike of "fast-fashion" and what it is doing not only to our pocketbooks and landfills, but to the psyche of the next generation. I happen to be one of those who favors re-selling clothing, re-purposing it, and keeping as many "makers" within my nation as possible by supporting them. This book was helpful to learn the brass tacks about how difficult apparel making has become in the USA. And yet inspiring, to discover several who have attempted it and what they had to overcome in order to do it. I recommend this non-fiction book to everyone who has ever had to clean out a closet!
2 reviews
December 13, 2025
Great look into the American textile industry

Reads like a autopsy of the American garment industry, reflecting what it once was onto the gutted carcase it is now. Sections dedicated to what seems like a commercial for American Giant with what is definitely some self-aggrandizement on behalf of Bayard Winthrop. If you're expecting a grass roots revival of the American made clothing industry you will be disappointed. Most of these business owners were born on third base when it comes to their connections and resources. Still fighting the good fit for the "Made in America" movement, but not the blue collar individuals you'd expect in a industry like this.
Profile Image for Lisa Wright.
632 reviews20 followers
March 25, 2024
This was both fascinating and heartening. I was thrilled to discover that there are individuals actively manufacturing high-quality, moderately-priced clothing completely in America. Corporations and politicians insist that Americans only care about price. They insist that we will take cheap over good every time. And see where that has gotten us. But there is hope!

Also It is just a really good read.
Profile Image for James Hamrick.
33 reviews
March 26, 2024
I really enjoyed this - I am familiar with Michael Williams from his blog and substack and own some Rancourt shoes thanks to him. There is also a ton of North Carolina history here that I was vaguely aware of growing up but pretty insulated from in Chapel Hill. The story of textiles moving overseas is really sad and some of the generations of folks who made a living in the mills are still around and profiled in this book. Makes me want to drive to Burlington and have a look around :).
62 reviews
April 17, 2024
I really liked this book about clothing manufacturing in the U.S. It's a deep dive into the short-sighted corporate and government actions that virtually ended the existence of clothing made in America & devastated many communities. A few small companies now exist that are making fabric, yarn, and clothes, and I wish them good luck. I'm old enough to remember when clothing was better made. I definitely noticed when prices dropped, but so did quality.
900 reviews
April 26, 2024
I really enjoyed the inside look and history presented in this book. It is fascinating to me how some have such a strong entrepreneurial spirit and ability to overcome the obstacles in business. The state of the country's manufacturing is pathetic and yet understandable. I know I want the best prices, but at the same time, I appreciate quality and craftsmanship. I am going to seek out some of the companies highlighted in this book and wish there had been more featured.
34 reviews1 follower
May 5, 2024
This was an excellent book highlighting how our country has off-shored so much knowledge, creativity and capability for profit. When COVID hit, it highlighted our inability to supply our own country with critical supplies. This book highlights several companies that are working to rebuild the Amerian supply chain and produce quality and fair-priced clothing. We should all do our best to support these companies!
Profile Image for Ben Westhoff.
Author 10 books190 followers
April 28, 2024
Thoughtful and entertaining portrait of American clothing manufacturing, its rise, fall, and perhaps rebirth. I'm a guy who gets anxious at the thought of shopping for pants, but this book made me want to go out and support American-made brands specializing in high-quality hoodies, socks, and shoes. Call it slow fashion.
Profile Image for Hillary Copsey.
659 reviews32 followers
May 10, 2024
Narrator isn't great on the audiobook, but reporting is compelling.
I am the daughter and granddaughter of factory workers, and this made me understand the concerns and complaints of my family. A lot of the outsourcing Kurutz talks about happened when I was a kid, growing up and so I don't think I've ever really understood the scope of it.
Profile Image for Violet.
144 reviews16 followers
August 21, 2024
Really enjoyed this fascinating history of the American Textile Industry. I had a little background knowledge when it came to wool from books like Unraveling and Vanishing Fleece, but getting to learn more about cotton and other textile manufacturing was interesting. The narrative structure was also compelling, heartbreaking, and hopeful. Highly recommend.
Profile Image for Lady.
1,052 reviews
February 10, 2025
This is good book to listen to if you’re interested in how the downfall of clothing manufacturing happened in America.
My favorite part was about Michael Williams. He grew up in my hometown of Wickliffe OH and just listening to the narrator mention that tiny suburb of Cleveland was wild. I went back and listened a few times to that part because I still can’t believe it.
20 reviews1 follower
February 27, 2025
This book is a lot about manufacturing in the United States. I live in Fort Payne, Alabama and unbeknownst to me. There’s several chapters about the sock mail industry, and several businesses that I drop by every single day going to work and I didn’t know their stories. Awesome read. I’m glad I did.
Profile Image for Ruth Cooper.
267 reviews1 follower
April 8, 2024
American Giant is the company on display in this “memoir of domestic manufacturers.” Underdogs, American redemption, and biopic priorities made this book a page-turner for me. Enjoyed it immensely and love my American-made flannel more :)
Profile Image for Nathan.
33 reviews1 follower
April 17, 2024
Lovely book, one of my favorite reads recently; through a series of anecdotes Kurutz profiles Americans committed to producing goods in this country. Steven's stories are compelling and he identifies companies that I very much want to support.
Profile Image for Christine.
96 reviews12 followers
August 19, 2024
I already avoided "Made in China" purchases of apparel, but this book makes me want to buy American made or secondhand clothing. I highly recommend this book if you are interested in Americana, how things are made, or a good old-fashioned David-and-Goliath type story.
Profile Image for Camille.
48 reviews1 follower
December 17, 2024
I learned more about our country’s economics from this book than anything else I’ve read in years. I love learning how things are made and appreciate quality items. This book resonates with my values about how I want to spend my money.
Profile Image for Claire Brown.
89 reviews1 follower
June 30, 2025
This is what I was hoping for with the boon Making It In America - spotlighting different brands, and the overall industry/companies still making yarn, fabric, and apparel in the US. I found it interesting, but not sure if that would translate well to those not close to the apparel industry.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 51 reviews

Can't find what you're looking for?

Get help and learn more about the design.