Bhutan: The Kingdom at the Centre of the World

by Omair Ahmad

A small, sparsely populated kingdom at the eastern end of the Himalayas, Bhutan is often described as one of the most isolated countries on earth. In this unprecedented portrait an informed and insightful mix of political history and travel writing Omair Ahmad shows that the opposite, in fact, is true. Located at the intersection of several political, cultural and religious currents, Bhutan has been a part of, and been shaped by, some of the most transformative events in Asian and world history.

Beginning with Padmasambhavas epic work to establish Buddhism in the Himalayas, The Kingdom at the Centre of the World tells the story of Bhutans emergence as an independent Buddhist nation in the seventeenth century under the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who turned his back on Tibet; the exploits of Jigme Namgyal the Black Regent who united Bhutan and fought the armies of British India to a standstill; and the remarkable Wangchuk monarchs, who have ruled Bhutan since the beginning of the twentieth century.

Alongside, the book also examines events around Bhutan that have affected it profoundly: the rise and fall of Tibet and the Mongol and British empires; the spread of Nepali-origin people across South Asia; Sikkims dramatic loss of sovereignty; and the conflicting territorial ambitions of India and China.

Most fascinating of all, the book argues that it is in Bhutan more, perhaps, than in any other nation that alternative modes of governance and progress are being tested in an increasingly homogenized world. As it chooses Gross National Happiness (GNH) over Gross National Product (GNP), grapples with a complicated refugee crisis, experiments with a guided democracy and tries to retain its cultural heritage while it opens up to the world, Bhutan could have important lessons for us all.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Travel

240 pages, Hardcover

First published July 1, 2013

About the author

Omair Ahmad was educated in Saudi Arabia, India and the US. He has worked as a political adviser on Kashmir, national and international security and legislative issues, as well as working as a journalist in the US, the UK and India. He is the author of The Storyteller’s Tale, Sense Terra and Encounters.

Reviews

[Rajiv Chopra · Rating 4 out of 5]

I like the book, as it is a relatively easy read. I have long wanted to travel to Bhutan, and this book does a lot to give me a first understanding of the events that have shaped Bhutan. It emerges from the mysteries, thanks to the deft handling by Omair Ahmad. What you get is a sort of condensed history of the country.
What the book does not do, and this would have been really nice, is to have added the author's personal experiences while traveling in Bhutan, and to have woven his commentary around these experiences. To me, this would have brought the book to life.

While the book may read as a summary of events, and in some way it does, it does a great service to us, who know very little about this country, and the pressures it has faced, especially in recent times, sandwiched as it is between India and China.

A good read, a good first read into the shaping of Bhutan.

[John Eliade · Rating 5 out of 5]

I like histories that are comprehensive but basic and can open you to larger and more academic histories. Ahmad's work is that kind. "The Kingdom" is an excellent prelude to say Karma Phuntsho's "The History of Bhutan" and it gives an excellent review of the Nepali crisis as opposed to the media which is always one-sided. I'd recommend bringing this to Bhutan if you ever get the chance to go because you'll have the opportunity to see the effects of such saints like Thangtong Gyalpo ("The Iron Bridge Builder") and the famous Drukpa Kunley ("The Divine Madman"). You'll also begin to understand how such a situation like the Nepali crisis wound so quickly out of control once you've been in the country for a few weeks as the book clearly illustrates the geopolitical and cultural issues that were happening a little more than 20 years ago.

[Sukanto · Rating 5 out of 5]

It is but obvious that Bhutan as a country has fascinated so many of us through the ages. So I jumped to order this book the moment I came across the title. And I was not disappointed. Such a coherent and remarkably objective narration of a country's history is something one rarely comes across in this genre of non-fiction. Bhutan is a very beautiful country indeed. And it's outer surface may indeed boast of some kind of perfection. But scratch it a bit and you come across some very interesting details. Intriguing rather. In what almost reads like a tale of fiction, the reader learns a lot about the nitty gritty that makes up this country. Hats off to Omair Ahmad for his in-depth research that led to this very enjoyable read.

[Neeraj Mishra · Rating 5 out of 5]

Having recently travelled to Bhutan and done my own research on the history as well as first hand account of locals, I took up this book for an easy read. Found the book quite accurate on facts and very balanced in opinion. Loved the narration, also context of Bhutan with respect to Tibet, sikkim, britishers and the Chinese was very helpful to learn the geo politics around the same time.

Must read, highly recommended.

Bonus: I related to the author's observation of rural Bhutanese love lost for following a queue.. courtesy they never have to as bhutan is not a crowded place. :)

[Adap Sonam · Rating 5 out of 5]

It is always intriguing to me when I read about Bhutan from a non-Bhutanese writers. There is so much I as a Bhutanese discover from those writings. It is like the inside stories are not known to the insiders. At times it is misleading as well but I understand considering the writer’s freedom and their perspectives.
From the Author's note in the prologue; “To journey into Bhutan is to journey into history, into myth, into politics and, perhaps, above all, into ourselves. It is here, in this kingdom at the centre of the world, that we are forced to ask ourselves whether all of these journeys are one and the same.”, Omair has pretty much covered all that took Bhutan to where it stands now. For Bhutan to stand independently among the giants didn’t come easy and it took considerable efforts and sacrifices of our forefathers and most of all the great leadership along the way. I strongly agree with what the Author has mentioned and I quote, “ In every direction around the kingdom, the Bhutanese can see what happens to nations that do not value the happiness of their citizens. In this context GNH is badly understood, as happiness tends to be a temporary phenomenon whereas the fourth king was aiming at a larger contentment with the way that the country was developing.” This is why we call our great fourth as the visionary leader. The leadership skills portrayed by the leaders of Bhutan have so much to teach the world and me as an individual too.
Omair’s mention of the great Saint Thangtong Gyalpo’s contribution to the country was great and connecting it to the great creation “the Golden Gate Bridge '' of Sanfrancisco was amazing for me to learn.
Finally this book has brought me closer to my roots. I just added a list of places I wish to visit and appreciate such as the Paro Ta Dzong, Wangdicholing temple in Bumthang, Ugyen Choeling, Chukha suspension bridge and lists of books and people I want to explore.

[Anu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tautly written, well researched & analyzed. This was one of the books on Bhutan that I read while visiting the country. Omar Ahmad does a deft job of unpacking the little known history of this country, valiantly trying to separate fact from legend, and contextualizing Bhutan’s story in the overarching geopolitics that has prevailed around this nation over the past centuries. Of the four Himalayan kingdoms - Sikkim, Ladakh, Tibet and Bhutan - this remains the only country that is independent. Through a generous dose of luck, thoughtful and compassionate defense and long term thinking, Bhutan has navigated itself into a place where its notion of GNH or Gross National Happiness draws intrigue and envy from many places.
A king that willingly abdicated in favour of his young son, a king that replaced monarchy with democracy - the monarchy in Bhutan is beloved and respected for good reasons, unlike what can be said of most monarchies around the world. Being an Indian myself, it was illuminating to read the details of the India-Bhutan relationship from the eyes of an Indian author that has served as a foreign rep to multiple countries on behalf of India. Very well written - great read, thoroughly recommend!

[Himanshu Rai · Rating 4 out of 5]

An insightful book into the history of Bhutan, Druk Yul: Land of the Thunder Dragon. The author dives into the transition of the Buddhist Kingdom from a vassal state of Tibet to a fully independent country. Since Bhutan is sandwiched between hungry empires, the country has learned to maintain a delicate balance and sovereignty between them. The author takes us into the intermingling journey of people living in the porous boundaries of Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim, British India, and Bhutan without getting into the complexity of the geopolitical wars. Once the border was settled in the 1950s, history becomes more interesting with a variety of characters and the politics of the creation of an international profile. The book touches lightly on the wrath of modern civilization on Buddhist traditions, culture & heritage. There’s no better way to experience the quiet paradise of Bhutan before touring than reading out this book.

[Vinayak Hegde · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book is a fascinating account of Bhutanese history. There are lots of interesting tidbits like how suspension bridges were invented by a Bhutanese monk, the proliferation of tea in the Duars which belonged to Bhutan once upon a time, the link of Bhutan to the Opium Wars, the interaction of Bhutanese Lamasery with Tibetian school of Buddhism. It is an insightful look into how the monarchy was established by consensus, humility and diplomacy as much as bloodshed and violence.

The author then delves into the Nepali emigration in Bhutan and Gorkhaland, the integration of Sikkim and the personalities involved there, the issue of the influx of Tibetian Refugees into Bhutan and their citizenship with a lot of nuances. Bhutan has navigated the two giants in the neighbourhood - India and China remarkably well.

[Laurie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Omair Ahmad is a fabulous author and I loved this book. It reads like a languid evening where the snacks and alcohol flow freely and the stories are fascinating or like those childhood days listening to the lore of a well traveled uncle who has always had that special gleam in his eye. Historically there is so much here to learn and the writing helps you to feel the lived history of the people who forged such a special nation with such gracious and respectful culture.

[Stephanie Guyer-Stevens · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an excellent history of Bhutan, politically and socially, from a young Indian journalist, who makes a complex region comprehensible. The strongest discussion of Bhutan's history with the lhotshampas that I've found.

[Anagha · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good first read to begin to understand a little bit about the Himalayan kingdom, it’s history and culture

[AskHistorians]

This book gives you a lot of good information on Pre-1800 Bhutan, going over accounts of Songtsen Gampo's temple building, of the various Kagyu saints that traversed the area, and how Bhutan was connected to the modern world way sooner than we all think. But it's main goal is to explain the Nepali crisis that began in the '90s and continues to this day. To explain this, Ahmad's work is very well-researched and his analysis is spot-on. Aside from this analysis, Ahmad's work is a lot like "The Story of Tibet," it's a good primer on Bhutanese history but not very detailed (until the 1800s).

[LifeSparring · Rating 3 out of 5]

Omair Ahmad's "The Kingdom at the Centre of the Word - Journeys into Bhutan" is an usual mix of historical book, travel journalism and political comment.

The genre changes within the book make it a bit harder to follow, but overall it is a nice glimpse into one of the most mysterious countries in the word.
Ahmad definitely increased my interest in Bhutan and touched on all aspects that make this little Himalayan kingdom so fascinating.

I hope I can follow the read up with a journey into Bhutan by myself.