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The Sugar Season: A Year in the Life of Maple Syrup, and One Family's Quest for the Sweetest Harvest

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A year in the life of one New England family as they work to preserve an ancient, lucrative, and threatened agricultural art--the sweetest harvest, maple syrup...

How has one of America's oldest agricultural crafts evolved from a quaint enterprise with "sugar parties" and the delicacy "sugar on snow" to a modern industry?

At a sugarhouse owned by maple syrup entrepreneur Bruce Bascom, 80,000 gallons of sap are processed daily during winter's end. In The Sugar Season, Douglas Whynott follows Bascom through one tumultuous season, taking us deep into the sugarbush, where sunlight and sap are intimately related and the sound of the taps gives the woods a rhythm and a ring. Along the way, he reveals the inner workings of the multimillion-dollar maple sugar industry. Make no mistake, it's big business--complete with a Maple Hall of Fame, a black market, a major syrup heist monitored by Homeland Security, a Canadian organization called The Federation, and a Global Strategic Reserve that's comparable to OPEC (fitting, since a barrel of maple syrup is worth more than a barrel of oil).

Whynott brings us to sugarhouses, were we learn the myriad subtle flavors of syrup and how it's assigned a grade. He examines the unusual biology of the maple tree that makes syrup possible and explores the maples'--and the industry's--chances for survival, highlighting a hot-button issue: how global warming is threatening our food supply. Experts predict that, by the end of this century, maple syrup production in the United States may suffer a drastic decline.

As buckets and wooden spouts give way to vacuum pumps and tubing, we see that even the best technology can't overcome warm nights in the middle of a season--and that only determined men like Bascom can continue to make a sweet like off of rugged land.

304 pages, Hardcover

First published March 4, 2014

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Douglas Whynott

8 books4 followers

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5 stars
21 (10%)
4 stars
57 (27%)
3 stars
79 (38%)
2 stars
36 (17%)
1 star
11 (5%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews
Profile Image for Jeff Rosendahl.
262 reviews7 followers
April 28, 2014
Not as interesting for me as I had hoped. It wasn't really about "one family's quest for the sweetest harvest" because Whynott kept including other characters in his story. And most of the book is focused on how many pounds of syrup the main character was buying from whom and when. Certainly we get an overview of the current state of the Maple Syrup industry, and it's not the buckets and fire-burning boilers of old that we might first associate with the product. When Whynott is telling the story of the Bascom family making maple syrup, he has a good book (although even that part is confusing with trying to remember which kid is from which uncle and what they do). But the rest of the book reads more like a Business Week article about industry expansion and price supports.
Profile Image for Noah Manges.
16 reviews1 follower
February 17, 2024
Outside of the actual Bascom family members, I’m not sure who would find this book interesting. It is just page after page of how much things weigh and how much they cost and who knows who. Just save yourself the time and get on Bascom Maple Farms website.
Profile Image for Isabelle | Nine Tale Vixen.
2,054 reviews121 followers
December 15, 2020
"The image of the sugarhouse, smokestack, and steam is iconic, but sugarhouses are as varied as the imaginations of their owners.”

Honestly, the majority of my disappointment probably comes from inaccurate marketing: even taking into account the strength of the local sugarmaking community, it's hardly focused on a single family. And the "human interest" aspects of this book are weighed down by the minutiae of exactly how much maple syrup is being made, bought, sold, and at exactly what price, and exactly when; there's also a bit towards the end on the effects of climate change on the industry. I most enjoyed the anecdotes about sugarmakers' family history and childhood memories, but it was interspersed irregularly with the business goings-ons.

It's clear the author did a lot of research and talked to a lot of experts, but it wasn't very well synthesized into a cohesive narrative. There are tons of facts and figures, as well as direct quotes, none of which seem to be contextualized or explained. An equation is described as "almost poetic" more than once, apparently because it uses parallel structure?

This isn't a terrible read, but if not for the POPSUGAR challenge I don't think I would've finished it.

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CONVERSION : 5.75 / 15 = 2 stars

Prose: 4 / 10
Intellectual Engagement: 2 / 10
Credibility: 7 / 10
Organization / Structure: 2 / 10

Emotional Impact / Interest: 3 / 5
Rereadability: 1 / 5
Memorability: 2 / 5
Profile Image for Claudia.
1,288 reviews39 followers
October 11, 2022
In reality, a look back over the previous year even as the author's tale was broken up by the tapping season of 2012 - which due to a warm fall and winter months - started February 1st and even with stops and starts was done by March 20 (which was the first day of spring that year).

From setting taps and buckets and boiling/reducing sap to syrup in wood-fired condensers to the webs of tubing, reverse-osmosis concentrators and oil-burning condensers used by large farms producing not only gallons of sap for their own use but to sell - in this case, to Bascom's Maple Farms in New Hampshire.

Whynott gives an insightful look into labor-intensive work involved in producing millions of pounds of maple syrup (11 pounds to the gallon) as taps are re-set every year, tubing must be carefully examined for leaks, huge tanks of sap that need to be boiled down, releasing steam with a faint maple scent.

Mostly produced by small farms across New England, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Wisconsin, Quebec, New Brunswick and Ontario, there is a highly speculative trade in bulk market syrup. Gallons may be held till the end of summer as producers may or may not have enough stock to fulfill their own obligations. There is even a Strategic global reserve of maple - held by the Quebec Federation - that can help with those producers whose inventory didn't last into the fall.

It's very readable. Certainly, Whynott has made many friends amidst the producers in New England and those in the industry. I can certainly see why "real" maple syrup is so expensive and why, why some food companies change over to maple-flavored corn syrup don't want to change back to the "real thing". But in turn, there is nothing like authentic maple syrup and Whynott will certainly agree.

2022-218
Profile Image for Pete Dulin.
Author 4 books3 followers
January 10, 2025
A satisfying read that thoroughly explores the deep inner workings of the maple syrup industry. Doug's three years of research involved extensive interviews, visits, walks, note taking, and sampling to understand the trees, seasonal cycles, land and weather patterns, and the hardworking people who transformed tree sap into syrup and other sweet products.

As a creative nonfiction writer, I was duly impressed but not surprised at Doug's skill and ability to capture conversations and details. He creates scenes you can visualize. He describes settings and places with vivid details that are specific, informative, and relevant. As a long-form text, the book provides a masterful example of how to write nonfiction with an engaging approach.

Doug's voice and vernacular is warm, at ease, a patient guide. He also breaks down facts, figures and insights in service of the whole. He conveys clearly how price, volume, and other metrics of economic trade are innately important. These numbers and facts provide context and a foundation to illustrate how the hard work is worthwhile, to validate the generational sacrifices and risks taken.

I learned about the industry and the history of the people working sugarbushes and sugarhouses. I craved samples of warm maple syrup and tastes of sugar on snow with each chapter completed.
Profile Image for Pip.
111 reviews1 follower
March 5, 2021
I began to read this book back in 2017, when I was on vacation in New Hampshire. Halfway through, my boyfriend interrupted me to propose and I was properly distracted by subsequent marriage planning, a wedding, and a baby. However, I never forgot about this book! I revisited it and reread (finally finishing it!) In a few days.

This book is a slice of life of the maple industry in the early 2010s. It can be a little confusing at times to keep the cast of characters straight, since there are so many players, but it was interesting to see all the nuance that goes into the maple game! It would be interesting to see how things have changed over the past few years, particularly since the pandemic and see if changes in temperature are still proving difficult for the industry.

Overall, an engaging and interesting read for those who love the sweet stuff! Also Prof. Whynott is a teacher at my alma mater, Emerson College, so, shout out there!
Profile Image for Rashi V On Storygraph Now.
58 reviews1 follower
December 28, 2020
The charm of this book lies in its descriptions of the people of New England, braving harsh weather and striving to keep up a seasonal industry for tradition and the sheer love of it. Douglas Whynott does a good job describing his interactions with small sugar farmers in New Hampshire, Vermont, Maine and even Quebec, and boy are there some characters there! I've always been fascinated by the syrup making process after having visited a few sugar shacks myself, but this book adds a whole new layer of complexity to my erstwhile limited understanding of the high stakes industry - Federation, heist and all.
Profile Image for Julie Manthey.
Author 2 books31 followers
March 6, 2019
This is a terrific book about the maple syrup industry. It provides a unique window into the world of maple, helping to add context to what it really takes to get pure maple syrup into our grocery stores. If you like non-fiction and enjoy books that dive into topics you haven't thought much about, this is a great read about the maple syrup industry. Fans of Michael Pollan's books will probably also enjoy this book. I recommend it to anyone interested in having a few fun facts to discuss at the breakfast table.
Profile Image for Lanette.
702 reviews
January 25, 2020
This was an interesting book about the Bascom maple operation as well as the entire maple industry in general. It was overwhelming thinking about the vast quantities of taps/gallons/trees/acres etc. that were mentioned.

I really enjoyed the author's writing style and cannot wait to read "Following the Bloom" about migratory beekeepers, as that's another one of my passions!
Profile Image for Andrea Lucero-watje.
49 reviews1 follower
January 20, 2021
This book sounded so much more interesting than it ended up being. His structure was a bit disjointed and rambling. I enjoyed the family anecdotes the most and wished that had been the focus. The story was so bogged down in the technical details that I just couldn't enjoy it and I contemplated not finishing many times.
Profile Image for Amber Klein.
12 reviews1 follower
January 8, 2025
Wanted to love this book. It's not what I was expecting, less about a singular family/ there maple farm and more about stats and numbers (Which regrettably I skimmed through- as I am not very interested in that type of thing). The parts about the family I felt were interesting and I enjoyed, but they were few and far between. This book had potential but didn't hit the mark for me.
Profile Image for Kathleen.
172 reviews8 followers
November 27, 2017
Interesting topic, just not very well-written. There is no sense of flow; the author just jumps from idea to idea, paragraph to paragraph, without thought to telling a story.
Profile Image for Steve Callahan.
204 reviews9 followers
August 16, 2018
Some interesting stuff, we visit a maple sugar house in Vermont or Berkshires Massachusetts every Spring.
Profile Image for Judy.
242 reviews
March 14, 2014
Because I grew up in Vermont and have memories of being in my grandfather's sugarhouse, I was drawn to this new book. I know enough to know that maple syrup is like liquid gold, since it takes so many gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup. I used to cringe as I watched my mother-in-law pour tons on her French toast only to have it wasted down the drain as the plate was washed. I've experienced the party atmosphere as my bother-in-law boiled and I enjoyed gathering the sap in buckets. Then along came a cousin who graduated to the plastic lines, bringing the sap right into the sugarhouse.

Now, as the author points out, producing maple syrup is big business. There's new technology with reverse osmosis machines allowing for quicker boiling. Among many other operations, he visits the Bascom family farm in NH, which has grown into a huge operation, not only gathering their own sap but buying in bulk from other farms, and selling sugaring equipment. There are tourists to entertain with demonstrations on how the process works. Canada, Maine, and Vermont are big players. Because mother nature orchestrates how successful the season will be, with no guarantees, the Canadians have set up a federation to set aside syrup to be used for a rainy day. During an audit it was discovered that some syrup had been stolen as many barrels were empty or filled with water.

I would have given the book another star if I hadn't been bogged down by so many statistics, but I realize those in the business need to be smart about their profits. It's changed a lot since my grandfather's day!
Profile Image for VerJean.
680 reviews7 followers
October 4, 2014
Pure maple syrup layered with fresh homemade yogurt as desert at Aux Canadiens Restaurant in old Quebec City -- began my life long love affair with yogurt and joy at REAL Maple Syrup!

After finishing this book, I may never eat another pancake again -or at least it might be awhile before I tip a "fake" syrup bottle. Just kidding, since I enjoy pancakes plain most of the time - just a touch of butter.
And, of course, who are we kidding - that stuff in the plastic bottle is NOT syrup - it's all the wrong stuff with chemicals made to resemble maple syrup.

However,I now know more about maple syrup than I ever ever dreamed of.
As with anything you're not directly involved with - there is a whole universe of "sugaring" - tending trees, harvesting, buying, selling, industry, pricings, rivalries and competitions, cooperating and family - histories/difficulties/ups & downs.
There's even the intrigue of "The Great Canadian Maple Syrup Heist" or "Who stole my 6 Million Gallons of Syrup???"
A good mix of personal histories, development of the industry, the process of nature and the processing of the sap, as well as the economics and overall view of the industry.
For all that it presented, it was clearly portrayed and well written.
I enjoy knowing "the rest of the story". However, must admit, I had to slog thru the final chapters - just couldn't absorb many more syrupy factoids.
Friends/Family probably won't be too happy with me, if I attempt to put this on their reading list, so it's a "Read It If You Dare" selection.
Profile Image for Blair.
489 reviews32 followers
May 14, 2015
Maple syrup is closely linked to Canada and New England, two of the places I've lived and considered to be home. This book attracted me because of the growing influence of the US producers and especially those from Vermont and New Hampshire, who are largely the same stock as my family.

The pluses of the book were that it discussed some of the recent history of one of North America's oldest agricultural crafts. Introduced by the indigenous people of the Northeast, it was adopted by European settlers who lived off the land.

Sugarbush and sugarhouses are important family traditions in this part of the world and they have enjoyed a resurgence with city dwellers being drawn back to the land and through technology which has increased the efficiency of extraction and creation of maple syrup.

I also learned more of the Canadian maple syrup cartel - The Federation - and the great syrup heist of the Global Strategic Reserve for Maple Syrup. Yes, you read this correctly. Global Strategic Reserve.

It is also important to understand that this traditional way of living off the land is threatened both from climate change and the pollutants to find New England to be a sort of exhaust pipe for the Continental US. I'll have to read more on this.....as this was news to me.

The only downside of the book was that it was a bit of a plug for the Bascom brand and family, but I suppose every book has its bias.
Profile Image for Handan.
190 reviews20 followers
February 18, 2015
OVERVIEW

Over the course of a year, one man discovers the ins and outs of the maple syrup business. Bits of history are included, but much of the book devotes itself to the years 2010-2012 and the unusual production. The work ends with a focus towards the impact of climate change, though this has been dropped a few times earlier in the book.

MY THOUGHTS

As someone who knew nothing of maple syrup (and who uses Log Cabin on her pancakes), I picked this up at my local library on a whim. Darn you, new publications display!
There were definitely some terms over which I stumbled and concepts which were utterly foreign to me. The author does give some context/explanation, but it took a few chapters for me to really understand the correlation (for example: the Federation). That said, I was blown away by other information I gained. I really thought there were still small bushes (sugar bush is the term for a maple farm) which did the old bucket and tap method. Proves how much of a city slicker I am. I became thoroughly engrossed in the machinations and finances beyond the screen of beautiful tree tops.
Now I want maple syrup. Just a little. Or maple candy.
Profile Image for Gina.
10 reviews
June 1, 2014
I was drawn to this book as I dabble in maple syrup myself, and have many friends in Michigan who make syrup on a larger scale. I had two problems with this book. First was the writing. I was surprised that an English professor had written it as I felt the book was lackluster. The writing didn't jump out at me, move me or inspire me. The test of a good writer is one that can make mundane events draw you in as though they were fascinating. That is not the case here. Secondly, I found the retelling of every sugarbush he visited and people he talked to as repetitive. He spouts figures on maple syrup production in every chapter, some guesses, some final tallies, but this too is overly repetitive. After a while I felt that every chapter was the same.I finished it, but I wouldn't recommend it. The making of maple syrup is fascinating, but this book is not.
Profile Image for Brendan O'Meara.
Author 4 books12 followers
May 29, 2014
This book was underwhelming. Mr. Whynott (great last name) tries to hold together a story about sugarmakers in New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and Canada, but it's kind of a slog. That's not entirely his fault. There's no inherent drama or conflict.

His presence in the narrative isn't intrusive, just extra baggage. If he had a more important role in the presence of the story, it may have been a better read.

As an aside, I've been working on a maple syrup piece since January. This book dropped in April so I looked at it with a more critical eye.

The scale of the sugarmakers at Bascom's is unreal. It's interesting for the novice sugarmaker and interesting for those interested in subcultures.
Profile Image for Kathleen Wells.
760 reviews3 followers
May 1, 2014
I grew up on a New England farm, and my father made maple syrup until he was 80 years old. I sort of thought this book would be more like "The Maple Sugar Book" of the 1970's or 80's... but it's mostly about how producing and selling maple syrup has evolved into a really big business. Although some of the businesses are still family-owned, this definitely isn't about my father's sugar house! Still, I suppose it's a good exercise for me to see how the "trade" has changed since I was involved, years and years ago.
Profile Image for Steve.
697 reviews7 followers
August 4, 2014
If you're a fan of (real) maple syrup, you will lap up this book! I had never thought of the journey which maple sap takes from the point it leaves a tree in the north woods until it is transformed into a tasty bottle of nectar for pancakes, waffles, French toast, and many other things. You can experience it all -- sugarbushes, sugarhouses, syrup cartels, weather worries -- and a love of all things maple through the eyes of Bruce Bascom, whose family is featured in the book. But don't be surprised if you have periodic cravings for the occasional maple fix as you read the book.
Profile Image for Jessica.
1,987 reviews40 followers
December 23, 2014
I just couldn't make myself finish this one. I thought it was going to be a book about a unique American industry, but it was more about one man and his quest to become "the Walmart" of Maple Syrup. I don't want to read about "the Walmart" of anything! It also seemed like a lot of the same information was in every chapter - at least what I read anyway - I only made it through chap. 8. I was hoping for a unique look at a small, local industry, but it was more about how this guy is trying to industrialize this unique product into a huge industry. Don't waste your time on this one!
Profile Image for Mysteryfan.
1,919 reviews24 followers
December 31, 2017
A surprisingly interesting book about maple syrup - its roots in American history, family involvement in a multibillion dollar industry, and how even maple syrup can be involved in an international theft. It was interesting to learn that while the techniques of harvesting sap have advanced, it's still highly dependent on Mother Nature. Global warming and man's effect on the environment is playing a part in the shifting industry.
Profile Image for Christina Dudley.
Author 28 books267 followers
April 27, 2014
I was hoping for more of a microhistory of maple syrup, rather than this close following of how the industry works today, but this was interesting nonetheless. In short, things have changed since that sugaring-off scene in Little House in the Big Woods, although at one point everyone still enjoys drizzling hot syrup over snow like Mary and Laura did. It still mystifies me why the stuff is so danged expensive, since they've managed to ramp up production so.
Profile Image for Patrick Macke.
1,019 reviews11 followers
November 4, 2016
i wanted it to be about the trees and the syrup, but it was about the world record for maple production and people who you never really end up caring about ... not much soul here, and what's worse, despite tons of sentences about boiling and tubing and tree taps and metal buckets and production statistics, you never do get a clear story about how the sap from a tree becomes maple syrup ... such sweet potential, such bitter results
899 reviews10 followers
March 31, 2016
Maybe not quite 4 stars, but closer to 4 than 3. I was expecting a lot of detail about how maple syrup is made but this was really more about the maple syrup business. Not what I expected, but interesting nonetheless. Who knew there was a Quebec maple cartel? Or that a barrel of maple syrup is more expensive than a barrel of oil? It's that time of year and I'm craving some pancakes.
Profile Image for Carl.
565 reviews4 followers
August 14, 2014
An excellent overview of One family's maple syrup business as well as a look into the industry itself. I had no idea of the intricacies involved in harvesting and selling maple syrup. Makes me want to eat sugar on snow and dream about warm syrup still cooling from its birth.
Profile Image for Patrick.
67 reviews
September 22, 2016
It took a little to get going, but overall it was an interesting read, and I learned much about the maple syrup history and industry. The writer pursued the story mostly through-out New England and Quebec.
Profile Image for Avis Black.
1,581 reviews57 followers
August 12, 2023
This is about the business, not the aesthetics, and I'm only interested in the latter. If you like to hear about tubing, prices, and temperatures, that's what this book mainly concentrates on, and it's pretty dull.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews

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