Mavericks: A Onda Sinistra

by Mark Kreidler, Julia Romeu (Translator)

Um dos locais mais respeitados e venerados pelos surfistas hoje em dia, Mavericks foi considerado durante muitos anos apenas uma lenda, um pico de surfe mítico no norte da Califórnia, de enormes ondas gélidas, escuras e muitas vezes mortais. Conduzindo o leitor por tubos, quedas, caldos e dropes radicais, o jornalista Mark Kreidler conta a história do lugar e de Jeff Clark, o surfista que o descobriu. Clark tinha dezessete anos quando decidiu encarar as ondas que quebravam a mais de um quilômetro mar adentro, e por quinze anos surfou ali sozinho. Tornou-se depois anfitrião do local, guru dos companheiros e um dos criadores daquele que é considerado o supercampeonato de ondas grandes do mundo. Com um trabalho meticuloso de reportagem que levou dois anos, Kreidler mergulha numa das temporadas mais perigosas da história de Mavericks e revela a coragem e a determinação de um grupo de 24 surfistas big riders selecionados para disputar o evento. Entre eles, um brasileiro, Carlos Burle.

Genres: Sports, Nonfiction

200 pages, Paperback

First published August 1, 2011

About the author

A sports writer and columnist, Mark Kreidler currently contributes to both ESPN.com and ESPN: The Magazine. He is the author of Four Days to Glory, Six Good Innings, and The Voodoo Wave. He lives in Davis, California.

Reviews

[Jessica Fitting · Rating 4 out of 5]

Growing up less than 5 minutes from Mavericks, the surf contest and surf culture was a part of my world, so I loved reading this deep dive that focused on the politics of the contest and the 2010 contest in particular. The writing was a little repetitive sometimes, but the heart of the book was really a touching tribute to the fearless athletes and WHY people love and feel connected to Mavericks the place. As a local, i felt a bit of pride for my hometown, and made me want to spend more time on the beach (though obviously NOT surfing Mavericks!).

[Steve Kreidler · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book. Kreidler takes us deep into the characters who form the most interesting fraternity of independent surfers. While competitive these surfers are wholly committed to each other's success on each wave. Rare is the book that keeps the suspense of the outcome of the big event in perfect tension with the development of each character. I highly recommend.

[Jane · Rating 3 out of 5]

provides a different view of big wave surfing that includes the behind the scenes drama that goes into staging contests. at times some exaggerated drama. still amazing what all these guys do & the mindset they share about living life & respecting maverick's as a wave.

[Jessica Carr · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book awhile ago, but what really stuck out to me is the cheap shot Kreidler took at Flea. Attributing Flea's three championships at Mavericks solely to his use of drugs is unrealistic, and greatly underestimates the athletic ability of these great surfers. Many of his competitors have also admitted using the same drugs, and since they didn't drug test and no rules precluded their use, the whole issue is moot. To add insult to injury, he uses a picture of Flea on the cover without crediting Flea as the surfer in the picture. A few seconds after the photo was snapped that wave collapsed and unloaded right on Flea's head. He was held down and pummeled so long, he almost drowned. It's considered one of the most epic wipeouts of all time. That photo was also used as the cover for Maverick's The Story Of Big Wave Surfing.

[Greg]

A little more into the politics of the surf competition than I was looking for, but still had enough good writing about the surfing itself to keep me going. Mavericks is an interesting place.

[Edward · Rating 4 out of 5]

I wasn't too interested in the commercial surfing content and the infighting among the company, but the information about the area and the wave and surfing it was interesting,

[Random · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was okay. Only three stars because this was my least favorite of the three books I've read on the subject of big wave surfing :) (the wave by Susan Casey being one and the ghost wave by Chris Dixon being the other). This book spends significant time following the commercialization of big wave surfing and the debate that causes in the sport. For a casual reader that wants a better wave description/adventure read, I would recommend the other two. That said, I dug this book. The author did a great job in describing the lives the surfers live - difficulties they face in pursuing their dreams, etc.

[Christopher · Rating 3 out of 5]

While I've always admired the skill and dedication of surfers, I'm not exactly what you would call a fan of the sport. Having said this, I wanted to give this book a try as part of my ongoing quest to push myself out of my comfort zone. I do think that being a fan of surfing might have helped me feel more engaged or invested in the material, but as it stands, this book is a well-written, meticulously researched, and fairly compelling tale that will appeal to fans and non-fans alike.

[Cymiki · Rating 4 out of 5]

why would someone who panics when toes don't touch the bottom of the swimming pool read about surfing? the notion of getting pounded under the waves when you fall off your board and puncturing an eardrum add to the drama of this book. finding that i am holding my breath while reading ~ plse call 911 if you don't see me tomorrow...... finished.....worth reading!

[Hardeep · Rating 3 out of 5]

I had no idea about the big-wave surfing circuit... Actually, had no idea about surfing per se, so this was interesting to read. Turned out to be a sort of a classic capitalism vs brotherhood/community etc kind of story. Not totally gnarly, a little rad ;-)

Just cannot fathom how people surf waves this large!

[Brian · Rating 4 out of 5]

intriguing look at the origins of the maverick surf contest at pillars point at half moon bay, california

well written and engaging by kreidler

could have used more discussion about rating of surfers

enjoyed the history of jeff clark and beir weidling and msv venture creation, legal battles

[L · Rating 3 out of 5]

Although at times it felt like there was more in here about weather patterns and behind the scenes politics than about actual surfers and surfing, this was still an interesting and enjoyable read.

[Icicle4 · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book. Background on the big wave that hit spectators at a contest at Maverick's.