The first beautifully illustrated volume exclusively dedicated to the female side of preppy style by American college girls. The Seven Sisters-a prestigious group of American colleges, whose members include fashion icons such as Katharine Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Ali MacGraw, and Meryl Streep-perfected a flair that spoke to an aspirational lifestyle filled with education, travel, and excitement. Their style, on campus and off, was synonymous with an intelligence and American grace that became a marker of national pride and status all over the from jeans and baggy shirts to Bermuda shorts and blazers, soft Shetland sweaters and saddle shoes, not to mention sleek suiting, pearls, elegant suitcases, kidskin gloves, kitten heels, and cashmere. "[The college girl's] contribution to fashion is as American as Coca-Cola, baseball and hitch-hiking," announced Harper's Bazaar in 1935.
Seven Sisters Style explores the multifaceted foundations and metamorphosis of this style, from the early twentieth century through today. Was the Seven Sisters girl an East Coast Ivy Leaguer? A geek or a goddess? Radical or conservative? A tomboy or an American princess? In many ways, she was all of these and more. This book presents a treasure trove of stunning visuals, including those from the archives of the Seven Sisters colleges that illustrate their legacy and enduring reverberations on and off the runway, in Hollywood, and in popular culture. From Dior's tailored blazers, wrap skirts, and short socks and heels to Balenciaga's juxtaposing the argyle sweater, collared blouse, and sharp tailored blazer, and even Band of Outsiders' silk pajama tartans with oversized coats and collegiate wool hats and scarves, it is a look that continues to fascinate and inspire.
This was a really interesting and informative book. I don't read non fiction books a whole lot, but every so often I like to read one to mix it up a bit. The preppy look is something that I dabble with and add elements into my own personal style, so it was cool to read about and understand a little bit of the history behind the look. I also didn't realise how deeply it was connected to university and that it was ultimately women wanting to be more comfortable at school that helped develop the style. I also found it really interesting that in the 30's and 40's, the girls who participated in this unofficial school uniform, also had a uniform for the weekends and holidays that had a similar put together vibe, but was "more feminine" than the clothes that they wore on campus.
However, I do feel that this book didn't properly acknowledge that preppy style ultimately came from a place of privilege. Going to university in the 1900's was not something that was accessible to everyone, especially not women and as a result of this, this style was mainly dictated by women who were wealthy enough to go. Even though preppy style has now morphed into an all American nostalgic look, that is more accessible to everyone, I think it is important to realise that it wasn't always like that and what is embedded into the history of that style.
Sitting on my desk is a photograph of my maternal grandmother. In the photo she is also sitting at a desk. You can't see all that much of her outfit, my best guess is a white blouse and an A-line skirt. She's holding a textbook, but the photo is too small to read the title. Leaning against the desk is a set of golf clubs. Poking out from under the desk is one of my grandmother's saddle shoe clad feet. From her hair and age I would guess the photo was taken in the late 1930s/ early 1940s when my grandmother would have been in her early 20s. This photo looks like it could have been included in this book, but my grandmother was no WASP-y girl of privilege. She was catholic, the child of Sicilian immigrants and never finished high school - not from lack of smarts but lack of funds. I suppose this photo stands as solid proof of how pervasive Seven Sisters Style was.
So, what about the book? As a reference tome, I cannot recommend it enough. It gives stories, details, brand names, and lots of excellent photographs. If you, like myself, enjoy vintage style but prefer practical and hard wearing clothes over Hollywood Glam - this is the book for you. Lots of useful inspiration abounds.
However, as I read I wished there had been more critical discussion. The irony of women of privilege opting for scruffy looks. A deeper look at the "trickle down" of their style to women who weren't born into wealth. I suppose that was never the point of the book, but I would have been very interested to dig into those ideas. I also think a resource guide for those who wish to recreate looks from the book but don't know where to source the pieces would have been useful - especially one that gave info on both true vintage and repo options at various price points. Again, probably not the point of the book, but it would have been a nice addition.
Those quibbles aside, it's really nice to see a guide to vintage style that focuses on fashion that is truly vintage but not particularly glamorous and/or the "pin up" look that tends to pervade the popular image of vintage fashion.
I'm interested in this as someone who is interested in both women's colleges and women's fashion and I thought this did a good job of broaching the subject of how the preppy look, specifically the preppy women's look, emerged. Tuite emphasizes particular colleges over others, which is kind of a shame. She also ignores wider social contexts in which these styles were developed, and about diversity and accessibility in the style (especially as colleges became co-ed and more people of color and people of lower income went to college.) So, nice pictures, but I think her scholarship leaves something to be desired.
Very interesting commentary and lovely images. I did find the setting aside of an entire chapter to Perry Ellis to be a bit odd (it felt more like an article than a comfortable chapter in this book, and was the only thing that really stood out as dissertation-y to me), but otherwise, I really loved this gem of fashion history.
Seven Sisters Style walks readers through the fashion on the campuses of seven historically women's colleges (known as the Seven Sisters) from the late 1800s to the book's publication in 2014 (though with far less content as the years get later). Pairing explanatory and explorative text with images, the book is not necessarily a deep dive, but makes the argument that young women attending these institutions drove fashion for millions of women -- and sometimes men -- and continue to do so.
Having graduated from a historically women's college (though not one of the Seven Sisters) I was particularly interested in this subject and ultimately wished for a bit more than what I got out of this book. While I'm aware of schools such as these (using my own as a reference) keeping great historical records and content in their libraries and archives, I'm not convinced the author knew. It seemed instead, much of the book's content was derived from popular and fashion magazines. Admittedly, I did not look at the sources list, but I'm certain there was far more to draw from than Tuite employed. The lack of both visual and written content from these sources made the argument a bit weaker -- there was no real evidence tying the advent of most of the discussed styles to these campuses. Just because these styles and fashion quirks were prevalent does not mean they started there.
I also struggled some with the prose. Most of it was dry and at times hard to follow. Again, drawing from archives may have provided the opportunity to follow particular individuals and their influences while adding additional interest, but the book generally doesn't do this. There are only a few photos I recall that named the individuals in them and those photos were absolutely in the minority.
This book has a great concept, but just doesn't execute it well. The argument is flimsy and the prose clunky. I'd love to see another take on this subject because it's such an interesting subject and the photos are great.
This made me realize more about my style, here are some of my favorite parts
Studied carelessness -p43
The weekend transformation was a statement on the exciting and rewarding lifestyle of being a Seven Sisters student - p82
In the late 40s and early 50s male department stores sort of let women in with small designated areas for them, but were mad when they “trespassed” the men’s section of the store and “greedily discovering other items of male apparel that they can take over for themselves”
But in the late 50s and early 60s several “key brands” adapted the style, later called, preppy -p97
Ralph Lauren’s interpretation of the collegiate look was never a costume or a disguise; it was an understated appreciation of good, classic style -p104
Perry Ellis The slouch look that entailed clothes to relax in, to feel good in, to be at ease in
Always looking smart and a little undone -p113
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
I appreciate Tuite's decision to write "Seven Sisters Style" more as a long magazine article than a hard-hitting, "serious" work. It made for an enjoyable experience reading through, admiring the pictures, and comparing how details changed over the decades while the main ideas and pieces stayed more or less the same. I also appreciate the general survey approach as far as the social contexts in which the clothing and activities of women in the colleges participated and formed. A solid piece that is still easily digestible and, for me at least, fun.
I liked learning about the origin of “preppy” fashion (modest, clean lines that allow for movement) and seeing college students challenge gender norms through style. I only wished for a little more historical context for the different eras. Overall, this is an impressive coffee table book and I’ll definitely be consulting it for inspo on well-made, classic clothing.
This book should have just been a video essay. It lacked any sort of depth and was more of a general intro to the style rather than analysis it seemed like it was going to be.
As a Mount Holyoke alumna--but not a preppy style aficionado--I purchased the book because I love college history, especially the history of women's colleges. Tuite has said that she did extensive research in each of the colleges' archives and I'd hoped the book would be a fun, insightful read. Not impressed. Tuite argues that preppy style has been hugely influential worldwide, but doesn't go much deeper than that. I found the text incredibly redundant--both in overused adjectives and in the fact that she makes the same points in every chapter with little variation. There are some beautiful photos and lovely reprints of historical clothing ads, but I expected more from a fashion history book. There just aren't that many photos and many that are included are small.
Tuite's research is quite limited in scope. 2/3 of the examples she presents are from Vassar, with a handful from Smith and Wellesley, but only a few mentions of Barnard, Bryn Mawr, Mount Holyoke, and Radcliffe. I realize that she has a personal connection to Vassar, but the book read as though she'd started it as a thesis about Vassar style and then decided to throw in a few references to the other Sisters in order to reach a broader audience. There were also some inaccurate historical and literary references.
As a Seven Sisters alumna, I truly wanted to enjoy the book and I did somewhat. However, though I learned a bunch about preppy designers, I ultimately felt unfulfilled because the book barely seemed to scratch the surface of the topic. I suggest getting this from the library, not buying; it's probably not something I'll return to often.
Thoughtful history of and homage to the classic American college woman's style through the years, illustrated beautifully with photos of Seven Sisters on and off campus. Off now to don my weejuns and pearls...
It was great up to the point of the '70s, when her focus seemed to shift from the campuses to the designers - most of the end of the books was about Lauren, Ellis and Hilfiger's runway style - nothing on how the actual young women were dressing!
It was fun looking at the pictures, and I enjoyed the analysis of the Seven Sisters personality (smart and sporty), but the last bit of the book just became about fashion (e.g. Ralph Lauren, et.al) which was less interesting.