Surf is Where You Find It

by Gerry Lopez, Steve Pezman (Foreword)

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing during that lifetimes. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport--surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle, one of the fastest growing water sports in the world, now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Genres: Nonfiction, Memoir, Sports, History, Adventure, Biography, Autobiography

416 pages, Paperback

First published April 1, 2008

Reviews

[Sanne Van Delden · Rating 5 out of 5]

Radical🤙🏼 als je surfen leuk vindt, vind je dit boek ook vet. Alles over surfen en wat je kan leren van de zee🌊

“Surfing happens best when it’s in the present: the past is behind and the future not yet. The only thing of interest is what’s here and now.” 🏄🏼‍♀️✨

[James Klueber · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love surfing. Surfing is what I go to when life is super stressful and I just need to let off some steam. The feeling of sliding down the face of a wave and pulling into the pocket is only a feeling a surfer can have and Gerry Lopez, being the pro at this, illustrates this feeling in his book Surf Is Where You Find It.
This book is a collection surf stories all about Gerry Lopez's surf adventures all around the world in different conditions. From the Banzai Pipeline with crazy spitting barrels to the coast of Indonesia. Even his experience on the slopes in Oregon and the Alps. You mat wonder how is snowboarding anything like surfing? They have absolutely nothing in common except for the same stoke you can get from both surfing and snowboarding which is his overall message in this book that no matter where you are you can get stoked from almost anything you have a passion for.
I thought that he used really good stylistic devises when he talked about his experiences in the ocean like when he says " I felt a tingle go through me as we got near". He also is really good at describing the moments that get you stoked like being in the barrel. For example he says "Everything seemed to slow down as well...Then it was over and I shot out into daylight at high speed..."If you are a surfer or do anything in the surf you know this feeling that you get when you get in a really good barrel.
I think that this book is really important to our society today because everybody needs to find the thing that gets you stoked and high on life because that makes you happy. If everbody found something that they are passionate about and stick to it our society will be much happier and peaceful as a whole.

[Tayler Henderson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Gerry Lopez you will always be famous, core lord and forever legend

[Robyn Dunning · Rating 4 out of 5]

Frickin loved listening to this book! Such entertaining stories of surfing, surf history, wipeouts, philosophy and the life of Gerry Lopez. He’s an actual legend. Really enjoyed his humour and storytelling.

[Rebecca Russavage · Rating 4 out of 5]

This feels more like an oral history written down than a memoir of any kind. Gerry was a crucial part of the core of surfing for many years, it was his job, and what he does. This felt sincere and honest—he’s a nice, goofy guy who cares about surfing and is genuinely trying to be a good person. Very consciously modest. The photos alone are worth buying the book.

This man is the John Denver of surfing.

[James · Rating 5 out of 5]

Gerry grew up in the islands, from whence he soaked up his easy-does-it style, Aloha spirit, and general approach to life, nature, and the wave. Then, in return, thousands of surfers and friends soaked up that Aloha spirit from Gerry. I mean, you've really got to admire someone who made his living by playing in the waves better than anyone else. Gerry is definitely plugged in -- a real Kahuna. He did this by discovering the way of waves.

No two waves are the same, yet Gerry learned something universal from learning their nature. We may consider "going with the flow" a tedious cliché, but Lopez made a sweet philosophy, profession, and life of that fluid, sweet spot of awareness.

Nature, as Wordsworth professed, never betrays the heart of one who loves her. Gerry has always loved the ocean, you can see it in his approach to the wave and also to people--and nature has always supported him. If you observe Gerry's effortless, slacked-down style, not only while he's surfing, you will discover it's all about seeing things and being with things exactly as they are -- moment to moment -- without imposing any delusions or even any thoughts. There's power and peace in that brand of anti-intellectualism, because that's seeing and being with reality.

"There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . . " ~ Gerry Lopez

"I think I'm getting wealthy in ways that don't count at the bank."

-- Gerry Lopez


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Gerry at Pipeline (on the red, Lightning Bolt board)

More Gerry on this page

And this one is all Gerry.

And so is this one.

The Aloha Spirit of Surfing (Gerry).

Gerry at Pichimelu, Chile.

[Michal naka · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone who has lived in both Hawaii and Oregon, I felt a strong personal connection to this book. Gerry’s journey resonated deeply with my own experiences, evoking a sense of nostalgia and heightening my appreciation for the memoir.

While my high rating is admittedly influenced by this personal connection, "Surf Is Where You Find It" stands on its own as an engaging read for anyone interested in surfing culture, Hawaiian history, or the spirit of adventure. Lopez's storytelling captures the essence of surfing as both a sport and a way of life, making it a compelling read even for those who've never set foot on a board.

[Zeryck Russon · Rating 4 out of 5]

A beautiful recollection of stories from Gerry’s life that has me yearning for the ocean every time I pick it up. Missing my time on Oahu and smiling everytime he mentions spots I used to frequent.

[Jess · Rating 4 out of 5]

The surfing obsession is going strong! Really enjoyed the standalone chapters in this book (each like a mini short story), but it did make reading a bit slower as there was no narrative to hook me. Feel like this will give me confidence in surfing because nothing can be as bad as some of these big wave experiences. Also lovely the way he tied in life philosophies learnt through surfing.

[Lance · Rating 4 out of 5]

As one who knows very little about surfing and have never heard of Gerry Lopez, I found this collection of stories and his life story very interesting. Admittedly, I couldn't tell you the difference between a pipeline in surfing and a pipeline that a plumber might be discussing, but that didn't matter as the stories made for terrific reading. When an author is both knowledgeable and very enthusiastic about the topic, that makes the book even better. Add in some very entertaining stories (that at times are terrifying) and it adds up to a very good read for anyone.

I read this on a Kindle tablet and the photos are just as good as the book, especially the color ones. Many times the photos on a Kindle don't come out as well as those in the print version, but that is not the case here. All the color photos are clear and beautiful.

[Elle · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really loved this book! This book tells the story of a legendary surfer named Gerry Lopez. He grew up on the island of Oahu in Hawaii. Lopez began surfing around the age of ten. He originally had no real interest in surfing, but what sparked an interest was watching the locals get up every morning and paddle out. Soon, he had a board and a spot in the lineup outside his house at Queen's. Gerry Lopez soon was surfing big waves like Pipeline. He was a pioneer in Rope Tow into big waves along with Laird Hamilton. The rest of the book tells about his many adventures in Bali, Australia, and many other places. The writing in the book was super powerful and inspiring, at least for me, being someone who loves the ocean and surfing! I absolutely loved this book!

[ivanareadsalot · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awe-inspiring, energetic adventures punctuated by some deeply moving and profound moments, gleaned from Lopez's lifelong passion for surfing the world's most beautiful waves, in pursuit of mastery, spiritual truths and just plain, awesome, goofy footed fun!

[Peter Greve · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read the third edition (2022) and it was a riveting book to read as a surfer. I was surprised how well written it was. As I read, I realized that Gerry’s intimate connection with certain surf spots catalyzed the rich fabric of his stories. His wholesome passion for the ocean drove this book but was rarely overt. Only a few times Gerry explicitly shared the wisdom of his experiences. Mostly the lessons were inferred through stories and some were reinforced throughout his life. Many were actually learned through other characters.

Some of my favourite lines included: “Health… is the presence of a superior state of well-being, a vigor and vitality that must be worked for and earned each and every day.” (Dr. Surf chapter)

“Life is quite a journey; we find something we like and immediately build a fence around it to keep it the same. Then something else comes along and we are over that fence in a flash with hardly a look back, chasing off after some other pipe dream.”

The vocabulary was varying, specific and fun. I liked how he incorporated indigenous languages and the slang used in the era. Words like ‘ehukai added texture and depth to the stories. I thought it was a great sign of respect and humility that he paid homage to the history of surfing, shaping, and even the settings pictured. Although I’m sure Gerry has strong personal beliefs, they didn’t erode the stories shared and they felt authentic. He was honest about the fear related to surfing and his appreciation of the tension between panic and calm. As stoic and zen as he comes across, Gerry gracefully shares the times fear overwhelmed him.

“When there were no options available, when I absolutely didn’t know what to do, I did what a total beginner would have done: I sat on my board and faced the shore. I kooked-out, but it certainly turned out to be the right thing to do.

“It made me think that maybe sometimes we have to go back to the beginning to find the answers to the questions we have at the end.”

Although I’m sure it is more enjoyable to read from a surfer’s perspective, the descriptions, stories and accompanying photography would be a great read for any water lover.

[Danny Schiff · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just over one year ago, my wife and I moved to Hawaii. In order to make the most of the situation I promised myself I would surf as often as possible during my transition here. Surfing glassy waves quickly became a hobby and passion to get me outside, active, and taking advantage of all the beauty and fun Hawaii has to offer.

As of late however, with a five month old at home and erratic sleep schedules, my dawn patrols at sunrise or sunset waves over sea turtles have become harder to come by. Hence the title, surf is where I find it these days.

For a few vicarious waves, enter the Gerry Lopez audiobook for days spent going on long walks with a 12 pound baby strapped to my chest. Lopez, one of the pioneers of big wave surfing in Hawaii writes about being at the forefront of stand up paddle surfing and racing, tow-in surfing, early days of surfing Pipeline, G-Land, and Bali. Lopez is one of the OGs who paved the way for Laird, Kelly, and John John.

Lopez philosophizes about all of the ways in which surfing is a metaphor for life, leaving the listeners and readers with the reminder that the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun.

[Jackie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Gerry Lopez seems like a great guy. For a non-surfer, this book is very surf focused, but I loved it. He tells his surf stories in great detail but with beauty and humbleness.

His descriptions of waves and his love for the sport is mesmerizing, as is his casual friendship with basically every surfers he encounters. He doesn’t talk a lot about his family or about himself. But who he is is made clear throughout the book. When he discusses surf realization, and that “the inner self is a great place. It’s closer than people think and it is nearly perfect” this is so obviously true for him. His writing style is so genuine and in the moment.

At the same time, Lopez doesn’t seem interested in giving any great lessons throughout the book. However he does gives a few small gifts of wisdom at the end. When speaking about riding a wave next to his brother and having completely different sets, he says: “Life is a series of moments. I came through that set to find that all moments are simultaneous but still separate and unique.”

[Austin Spence · Rating 5 out of 5]

Absolutely unreal tales of one voice within the larger progress of surfing narrative. If I can remember my life in stories the way that Gerry Lopez was able to reveal them then I must be doing something right. Lopez embodied the Eastern spirituality, related with surfing/ hippie/ naturalist movements nowadays. I think his discipline to his way of life allowed him to be completely in the moment during his escapades, thus extending the reader such a clear picture. With this book we see a being fully alive in what he is doing without a sense of pride or ownership of his sport. He was an excellent surfer (still alive but probably not ripping like he used to). He made damn good surfboards. I am most impressed by his tales told within a community.

All that to say, probably shouldn't have read this during a quarantine because I got the itch now.

[Matt · Rating 5 out of 5]

Growing up in Hawaii, Gerry Lopez was like our Spider Man. The mainland kids read comic books about imaginary guys in spandex suits. We read Surfer magazine about a guy we occasionally saw at Foodland. I still put lightning bolts on everything.

Reading Gerry's tales about his incredible life exploring the ocean and quietly influencing surfing culture was fascinating and fulfilling. But the real hook in this tremendous biography is reading about how a thread of creative innovation, driven by a DIY spirit, runs through his entire life and continues to this day. Surf is where you find it for sure, and he found it in some amazing places. But in this book Gerry teaches us that opportunities are made, not found, and all you have to do is survive a seemingly endless set of terrifying wipeouts by staying calm, and then re-surface to follow your passion and do the work.

[Damon · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the best surf books. First impression is that Gerry Lopez’ characteristic unpretentious and humble shines through from start to finish. Interesting to hear about his experience in Hawaii surfing pipe as well as his experience with the shortboard revolution. Also found it interesting how he eventually moved to Bend, OR to focus more on snowboarding and surfing way less frequently after it being such a major part of his life. Lots of good surf stories in here including a lot of good tow-in surf stories with legend Laird Hamilton. It’s also super interesting listening to surf scares such as excessive hold downs and reef slams etc.

[Thomas DeWolf · Rating 4 out of 5]

I grew up going to the beaches in Southern California. I never learned to surf, but sure enjoyed watching (and body surfing); especially watching, and idolizing, my older cousin Chuck, who lived in Huntington Beach and surfed all the time. My wife and I love visiting Hawaii (especially in the winter since we live in a place with cold, snowy winters), and watching the surfers and kite surfers. Running across this book by Gerry Lopez was a real treat. His stories of a lifetime of surfing in Hawaii, California, and around the world, take me to the warm, and I appreciate it.

[Darius Murretti · Rating 5 out of 5]

TRANSPORTING AND TRANSCENDANT
Sat sengis also surf the wave of NAM back to the god head

so this is very applicable
If your a Sat Sangi and you want some good wholesome entertainment that will remind you of the perfection, peace. joy and positivity your inner self and the struggle to crash (swim)through the waves of thought with simran to reach the line up of the eyecenter from where you launch into the Godward wave of Nam (aka the holy spirit)

Well, you can rely on this audio to help you build that atmosphere and perspective ...

[Chris Morris · Rating 5 out of 5]

Mr. Lopez’ book is a wonderful retelling of the sport of surfing from the inside out. Every time surfing underwent huge change, from long boards to short, from staying safe at a home break to scouring the world for new challenges, from spitting on tow-in riders to recognizing them for the trail blazers they were, Jerry was there in the nexus, magic in his soul and a pencil in his pocket taking invaluable notes. His book reads like a history of surfing. If you have ever surfed or simply love the look of wave riding, this is a MUST read.

[Emily Beck · Rating 3 out of 5]

“You know kiddo, in my day, we could surf an empty line up in Bali and score endless barrels!”

“That’s great Grandpa, let’s get you to bed…”

Some appeal for surfers only as Gerry runs through his surf history name dropping people and places. It does get quite repetitive but as his surf memoir, will let him do as he pleases. Important catalogue of the times I suppose! Fun pictures throughout really helped and interesting to learn about some of the shaping history/specificities. Does capture true deep fear of the waves that every surfer has felt so nice to know that even the best get scared!!

[Yukio Nagato · Rating 4 out of 5]

A little bit of zen and inner philosophy along with riding beautiful waves. Can't think of anything missing here. I dig how humble Gerry is and how honest he is about being scared at times. This is exactly how I (and I'm sure most surfers) feel out there in the wild blue surf and ocean. I don't know why but he always gives me a feeling of calm and intelligence whenever I see, hear, or even read whatever he has to write. When in doubt, go out. Will do.

[Jack · Rating 5 out of 5]

I didn’t think I’d love this book so much, I mean how many different surf sessions and talk of paddling out or wiping out or riding a wave can you go through and not get bored of it… apparently an endless amount of Gerry’s tales of waves.

It’s so true the best part of surfing outside of the water is reliving the rides, wipeouts, and tough paddles of your life…

When I was done I wanted more and I originally picked it up to help me fall asleep at night but I couldn’t put it down.

[Sarah · Rating 3 out of 5]

dnf
really interesting book with fun pictures. really makes you want to try surfing (and then at times not when he talks about some of the tragic stories. I did not finish it though because it was not one consistent story but more a lot of anecdotes put together in a book. so I'd say it's interesting to dive into for a chapter or so - maybe even to just pick out some that seem interesting but not really a cover to cover read.

[Dean · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a great book. Growing up in Southern California and moving to the North West, you always need that ray of sunshine that brings you back to the careless beach days growing up. Gerry's book is timeless, entertaining, an easy read, and historical. I'm buying this book for the shelves to pass down to the kids.

[sofiacolor · Rating 3 out of 5]

The last chapter is worth reading the book. I liked the teachings about the right mindset when surfing, is definitely a very important part of surfing so you might just learn it!
Photos and their captions were sometimes repeated. I felt that was lack of attention to detail.
I had to push myself a bit to finish reading the book... it is a little bit too long.

[Emily Yancey · Rating 5 out of 5]

the absolute best book i’ve ever read. i loved every single aspect of it. a great mix of insane stories, impactful people, important lessons, and deep reflections, all coming from one of the greatest surfers of all time. this book is very much “the wisdom of the waves: any time, anywhere, any way.” lessons learned from surfing apply to anything in life. plus a million stars for pictures

[shaima · Rating 1 out of 5]

Do not recommend. made the mistake of listening to the audiobook while sewing 3 hours in he brought up “a great surfer from Israel” I want my three hours back. This book wasn’t even good to begin with and then he goes and attempts to normalize “Israel” may god give me the patience dealing with such terrible books and authors

[Evan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Some
Cool surf stories, pretty randomly compiled and not always about Gerry but someone telling him a story which I found odd. Smatters in some attempts philosophical life lessons to follow some of his experience which fell flat. As he said, he doesn’t want people to forget his generation and the surfers who helped shape the sport and that’s basically what this book was, his stone tablet