A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution

Arden Shakespeare Library

by Joy Spanabel Emery

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.

Genres: Sewing, History, Fashion, Nonfiction, Reference

272 pages, Hardcover

First published April 24, 2014

Reviews

[Nicky · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don't think this book would be of great interest to someone who isn't interested in sewing at all, but you don't have to actually sew to take an interest -- a couple of episodes of the Great British Sewing Bee should set you up with all you need to know for background, if you feel you need to know a little more. Mostly, what you need to know is explained in the text, as the history goes through the development of early patterns from "rock of eye" to printed patterns showing various different sizes.

It seems that paper patterns have a surprising amount to tell fashion history: although paper patterns for home sewers were behind the fashion by a little, they couldn't be that far behind or they'd be pointless, so they did follow fashion and sometimes inform it (for instance, in the length of mini-skirts). Patterns have survived well, despite the flimsy paper, because the paper was acid-free, and often systems of notches and punched holes were used instead of ink. Carefully unfolded, very old patterns are still useable and useful.

It's surprising to me that the companies which established themselves early in the history of providing patterns for home sewers still exist! It was a little odd to meet their names back before printed patterns became possible, for instance.

The book is richly illustrated with images of the fashions and pattern-packets discussed, showing the trends through time very visually as pattern companies started putting the pattern pieces in envelopes, providing more instruction, and expanding their ranges to tempt younger sewers into following fashions. It also comes with some vintage patterns, which make no sense to me, but might interest people with a less academic interest in sewing and actually making garments.

[Carmen Grantham · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great review of pattern companies from it's birth in the the 19th century. Focused on American companies, but mentioned significant European companies too.

It had quite a lot of pictures of old pattern covers, and even has some patterns that have been created in the style of various era's.

[Megan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Very detailed but also extremely heavy on the early days (1800s) and light on the last 50 years. It did feel at times as if it were a financial report on the major pattern companies.

But it did offer interesting tidbits of history and provide many jumping off points for further reading.

[Jane Opper · Rating 5 out of 5]

Helped me to really appreciate my collection of vintage patterns.

[tinaaaaaa · Rating 2 out of 5]

The scope of this book is unfortunately narrow. The author focuses almost solely on the business and economic aspects of the paper pattern industry. There is some focus on technical innovations, and the wartime effects on home sewing. But there isn't much on what kinds of people were buying the patterns, or what effect (if any) paper patterns had on the overall industry of clothing. The cultural aspect of home sewing is barely mentioned at all. The research presented here is all monetary figures, and which companies merged or went bankrupt or still exist today.

[Debi · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you live vintage patterns, you will love this book! I found it fascinating and well-researched. Definitely a keeper.

[Melanie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'd like to give this 3.5 stars -- because it was fascinating & gave lots of inspiring background to home pattern-based sewing, especially of the early years. But it was written in such a dry fashion -- it could have been much livelier, considering the content -- all those business takeovers and shenanigans and so on, all those intriguing personalities! I know it's academic but it had so much potential to be a compelling read as well as an informative one. Also, there were quite a few typos, which distracted me, especially in such an academic work.

That said, it was very informative and included some great illustrations. I really did enjoy it and thought it was pretty interesting!

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

A history of the paper pattern industry is long overdue and this book is a start. There is much good information here but the narrative is overly factual, which makes the story very dry. Some fleshing out with first-person narratives through journal entries and interviews would have made the history much more valuable by speaking to the significance of this industry to individual sewers.

[Jess B · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really good up until the last chapter (1980-2010), which felt rather scattered. The appendix has 9 patterns from the 1850s-1960s. There is a picture of the front of the pattern and then a grid with scaled pattern pieces. I think that the idea is to show the evolution of patterns, but an adventuresome reader could enlarge the patterns to actually make the garments.

[Sveta Mobile · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book with a lot of information. Little bit pity that this is mostly American part of story, you can find a little bit about European pattern companies and no word about Japan, for example.

[Sophie · Rating 2 out of 5]

I slogged my way through this book because the information was interesting, but it was an uphill battle. It's written in such an incrediby dry and academic way, full of in-text citations, that it's akin to reading someone's thesis.

[Lynda · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awesome if you are into fashion and sewing

[Phair · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fascinating explanation of the development of home sewing patterns from early women's magazines to present-day. I was not as interested in the various pattern manufacturers and the rise and fall or consolidation of those companies but I did enjoy learning about the innovations and fashion trends such as the special patterns during WWII to help women deal with fabric rationing (how to lay out a woman's outfit on an old man's suit for example) and the patterns aimed at rural American homemakers detailing the number of flour/grain sacks required to sew the illustrated fashions. The book is worth it for the wealth of excellent illustrations including fashion plates and advertising from early magazines, pattern envelopes from the whole range of years covered and layouts. An added bonus is the section at the back showing simplified, gridded patterns from representative years from 1850s basque to 1960s Nehru jacket. I actually own many of the patterns illustrated, especially from the 1960s-80s.