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A Social History of Tea: Tea's Influence on Commerce, Culture & Community

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British writer and tea historian Jane Pettigrew has joined forces again with American tea writer Bruce Richardson to chronicle the fascinating story of tea’s influence on British and American culture, commerce and community spanning nearly four centuries. These two leading tea professionals have seen first-hand the current tea renaissance sweeping modern culture and have written over two dozen books on the subject of tea, including The New Tea Companion . No beverage has shaped Western civilization more than the ancient elixir - tea. Follow tea's amazing journey from Canton to London, Boston and beyond as these two leaders of today's tea renaissance weave a fascinating story detailing how the leaves of a simple Asian plant shaped the culture and politics of both the United Kingdom and the United States. CHAPTER HIGHLIGHTS THE SEVENTEENTH First Tea in England * East India Company * America’s Thirst for Tea * Tea Jars & Caddies THE EIGHTEENTH   Teas for Sale * Tea Smuggling * Tea Etiquette * Liberty Tea * Boston Tea Party THE NINETEENTH   An Empire Built on Tea * Jane Austen’s Tea Things * Afternoon Tea * Glasgow Tea Movement * Tea & Suffrage THE TWENTIETH Teabags * The Tea Room Movement * Wartime Tea * Rise of American Tea Brands * Tea Dances * Specialty Tea THE TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY The American Teasmith * Tea & Health * The Starbucks Effect * Culinary Tea

248 pages, Paperback

First published February 1, 2001

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About the author

Jane Pettigrew

86 books32 followers
Jane Pettigrew is a tea specialist, historian, writer and consultant. Since 1983, she has been working in the UK and around the world to explain and share the fascinating world of tea.

She has written 15 books on the many and varied aspects of tea, its production, history and culture, and she writes for tea related magazines and journals.

She also gives regular tea masterclasses and tea tastings, speaks on radio and TV and acts as consultant to tea companies, new tea businesses, table ware and tea ware companies.

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Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews
Profile Image for Eustacia Tan.
Author 15 books295 followers
June 5, 2020
4.5 stars

I have wanted to read this book ever since I heard of it. Although I swing back and forth between reading the Western and Asian histories of tea, that’s because I want to get a sense of the whole picture. A Social History of Tea covers the rise and impact of tea in Britain and America, from the 17th to the 21st Century.

Reading the book, tea seems to have made a quiet entrance into England. Samuel Pepys talked about sending for a cup of tea (spelled “tee”) for the first time, but the high price of tea made it inaccessible to all but the wealthy. Because of the high price of tea, the lady of the house was the one who was in charge of keeping the tea – it was far too valuable to be entrusted to the servants. As for how it came into the country, both England and America received tea through the Dutch East India Company.

Something interesting I learned was that pottery was imported before tea was imported. I always thought of them as a set, so this was interesting. The book also mentions that at first, full sets of China were uncommon, since the cargo was shipped out in mixed batches. The Europeans did start making pottery after the Chinese and Japanese style, but “it was not until the mid-eighteenth century that they produced anything to seriously rival the quality and beauty of Chinese and Japanese wares.” This was also a good reminder that although I tend to see Chinese and Western tea ware as very different things, Western tea was started off as Chinese tea ware. But as they developed their own culture, the way they drank tea and the vessels they used changed.

Another surprise was that Americans starting like tea in the late seventeenth century, since I don’t really have an impression of America as a tea drinking country.

As the book moves into the eighteenth century, the book starts to talk about illegal tea. Due to the high taxes, tea was one of the items that was often smuggled into the country. The book puts tea smouch (fake tea), which I first learnt about from Tea With Jane Austen, in the same category as adulterated teas from China. Unlike A Thirst for Empire, however, the book doesn’t go into the different reasons why black tea emerged as the tea of choice, but simply states that because “the consuming public knew that it was easier to adulterate green tea, more and more people began to buy only black.”

Another interesting thing I learnt was that as the common folk started developing a taste for tea, house servants “often had their wages calculated to include a tea allowance.” I’d advocate for this at my workplace, but we already have more tea than we can drink!

The eighteenth century was also when the Boston Tea Party took place and the book provides an overview of the event.

When we head into the nineteenth century, we get Americans growing tea and the emergence of Lipton tea company. The book also talks about tea in literature, including a section on one of my favourite authors – Jane Austen. The book Tea With Jane Austen definitely has more detail, though.

There is a delightful section on afternoon tea, its etiquette, and even the menu and dress! The concept of tea gowns was very interesting. The tea gown is something “designed to allow the female body a freedom that the more formal Victorian dress did not”. It was considered fairly casual (and not suitable for going out), but nice enough that you can entertain your friends if they come to visit you.

The chapter also talks about the temperance movement, although the book doesn’t connect it to afternoon tea, instead only mentioning “the accepted tea legend” that we always hear. Perhaps Erika Rappaport’s theory of temperance tea parties as the origin of afternoon tea is less well-known than I imagine. I do, however, still find it persuasive. In fact, A Social History of Tea mentions a tea party held during the Christmas of 1833 and says in a separate place that afternoon tea developed “sometime between the late 1830s and early 1840s”, so even with their timeline, the theory of temperance tea parties as the root of afternoon tea makes sense.

When tea enters the twentieth century, we start talking about tea in wartime, along with modern tea ware, the invention of the teabag, and the continued development of the tea gown. In America, tea room management courses started appearing in the 1920s, as more and more women started their own tea rooms. One course taught students how to deal with “all the major issues involved in running a tea room – menu planning, recipes, equipment buying, portion control, accounting and employees.” They taught things like making tea balls to save time and gave tips on how to name your establishment. After reading about them, I wanted to enroll in one such course!

Unfortunately, the good times don’t last and the quality of afternoon tea started to decline. This segues into the final chapter, about tea in the twenty-first century, which looks at the revitalisation of tea.

Overall, this is a pretty interesting book. It doesn’t go into as much detail as say, A Thirst for Empire, but it does cover two tea drinking countries over five centuries. That’s a lot of ground to cover and the book does a good job recapping the history of tea. I don’t think it’s the only book you need (definitely not), but it’s a nice introduction to the Western history of tea. That said, if you’re only interested in the history of tea in Britain and her colonies, then A Thirst for Empire is probably more comprehensive and what you need.

This review was first posted at Eustea Reads
Profile Image for Laurel.
Author 1 book383 followers
December 22, 2014
Tea passed pleasantly, and nobody seemed in a hurry to move. – Jane Austen, Emma, Chapter 41

Taking tea is so quintessentially British. You cannot think of that noble nation without envisioning its residents with a tea cup in one hand and a cucumber sandwich in the other. English novelist Jane Austen mentions tea no less than 49 times in her major works. The popularity of tea has grown even more since her Regency times, evolving during the Victorian era into a light meal served at four in the afternoon: resplendent with white linen, silver trays, scones and clotted cream. Today, in our fast-paced-world of takeout food and frozen dinners, attending a tea party at a friend’s home or tea room is an event to be cherished and savored. The calming ritual and lively conversation is the ultimate indulgence that has not changed for polished society for four hundred years.

The tale of tea is a captivating story revealed in A Social History of Tea, a new expanded second edition by British tea authority Jane Pettigrew and American tea historian Bruce Richardson. Originally published in 2001 by The National Trust, this new edition has been revised and expanded and includes the research of two tea authorities from both sides of the pond. We are so internationally bipartisan these days—I am sure that mad King George III must be rolling in his grave!

Having long been a “tea advocate” I knew of Mr. Richardson from my cherished subscription to TeaTime magazine. I was thrilled to discover that he would be a speaker at the 2013 Jane Austen Society of North America’s Annual General Meeting in Minneapolis. I missed his talk, Society Steeped in Tea, but glowing reports piqued my interest in obtaining a copy of his new book with Pettigrew. I was not disappointed. Beautifully designed with 150 full color images, this tome on the evolution of tea through the last four centuries and its influence on society and world economics is fascinating. Broken down into an introduction, six major chapters, a select bibliography, a list of illustration credits and an index, readers can easily use A Social History of Tea as either an illustrated history, a reference book, or purely a pleasure read, depending on their mood. Being a Janeite, I jumped to the index and skimmed for Jane Austen’s name. Huzzah. There she is on page 127 in a featurette entitled Tea in Literature with Charles Dickens and Lewis Carroll, two other famous British authors from the 1800’s who show that taking tea was an excellent way to bring characters together in a prudential parlor or at a mad tea party. Several passages illustrating Austen’s use of “tea-things” by her characters are featured from her novels, and if we pay attention, the timing of when they are taking tea gives us a social insight into when it was drunk and what was served with it.

“The next opening of the door brought something more welcome: it was for the tea–things, which she had begun almost to despair of seeing that evening…Fanny was very thankful. She could not but own that she should be very glad of a little tea, and Susan immediately set about making it, as if pleased to have the employment all to herself…Fanny’s spirit was as much refreshed as her body; her head and heart were soon the better for such well–timed kindness.” – Mansfield Park, Chapter 38

Richly detailed and agreeably accessible, A Social History of Tea is both enlightening and entertaining. Every important historical, economic and social aspect is covered. I particularly appreciated the details surrounding the forming and growth of The East India Trading Company, the Boston Tea Party of 1773 which sparked the American Revolution, and the rise of tea rooms suitable for respectable ladies to dine out at the end of the nineteenth century. We can also thank the Victorian’s for raising tea-time to an art form chock-full of the incredibly delicious fare we enjoy today.

In Jane Austen’s world “tea meant rest and pleasure, and its absence would be a severe disappointment.” (127) Pettigrew and Richardson have combined detailed history, social asides and beautiful illustrations covering the four centuries that we have enjoyed tea—its rise and fall in popularity—and rebirth. A Social History of Tea is the resource for those who would like to discover even more about this delectable beverage. There is a guaranteed abundance of rest and pleasure on every page. I recommend it highly.

Laurel Ann, Austenprose
33 reviews
September 9, 2017
This book was obviously well-researched but could have used better editing. The authors introduced topics as though the reader already understood what they are, but then revisited and explained them later. Also, some of the examples were used multiple times, like the example about how tea was boiled and the leaves eaten with butter because colonials didn't know what to do with it.

I think the format would have also benefited from going by topic related to tea rather than trying to shoehorn each topic into each century, especially given that sometimes the timelines bled into each other. For example, the topic that dealt with women's suffrage and tea during the 19th century talked about events that happened in 1925, a quarter of the way into the 20th century. This made it difficult to grasp a good picture of the changes in tea throughout time since the timelines ended up becoming rather disjointed.
486 reviews13 followers
March 21, 2019
Far and away the best social history of tea I’ve ever read. This books does a beautiful job drawing a full picture of tea — not the science or botany of it, but the way humans discovered, traded, used, and enjoyed tea.

I love that they bring in both English and American history, and how they interweave stories of politics with stories of material culture like teapots and silverware. They cover the Boston Tea Party and the role of tea parties in women’s suffrage activism, and not much later they’re covering the rise of porcelain factories crafting fanciful teapots. I kept thinking how this book would make a fantastic museum exhibition.

That said, it took me a while to get through it. The facts were sometimes introduced in a disjointed way — sometimes a topic would be introduced as if the reader already knew it, and then later it would be reintroduced, as if for the first time. Some stories were repeated, as if the reader hadn’t read it the first time. And facts often got confused (trying to sort out what time people ate supper in the 18th and 19th century is clearly a challenging subject, but the way it’s covered here left me more confused than clear about it).

Still, despite the need for tighter editing, this is a terrific book and easily the top one I’d recommend for someone interested in the social side of tea history.
Profile Image for Doc Kinne.
238 reviews7 followers
May 7, 2013
The book worked out well. It is nicely illustrated and nicely researched, especially in the early years.

I think I would have liked a bit more about the 20th century, and especially how tea is used now. Perhaps there is not that much to tell.

The book was very Anglio-centric, as may befit the subject, but I wider focus may be interesting as well. Perhaps another book should (has?) been written?

The review, as I review it, seems mainly negative. I don't want to give that impression. If you're interested in a well illustrated history of tea, weighted between 1600-1900, this is it.
Profile Image for Marcella Bongiovanni.
164 reviews11 followers
August 15, 2020
Weirdly enough, I had to go to Seattle to be able to find a copy of this book as the UK publisher sent it out of print ;)
It's a book for tea aficionados and history bluffs, but it doesn't bring much novelty on the table. You re-read about tea conquest of the Anglo world through the eyes of the (mainly very rich) people.
It's both interesting and boring if you don't love the minutiae of every day life as written in letters and wills.
Obviously short on the last century, but maybe really too short.

A book for those who are interested in life and/or avoid history books.
Profile Image for Bookworm.
2,330 reviews98 followers
March 3, 2019
I enjoy tea, drink it every day and consider it to be a "hobby" of mine. So I liked the idea of looking at a "social" history of tea rather than the typical historical origins tale of where tea came from and its role in the world today.

As it says it's a look at the origins of tea and its role in British society: how and when it was consumed, how it differed for different social classes, its role in political/societal events, etc. Some of it is likely familiar, much of it might not be, depending on your degree of knowledge. Still, all the same it was interesting.

But the negative reviews are definitely on to something. Sometimes the book doesn't "flow" very well--the author tried a chronological approach but it might have been better to focus on tea itself and as its role changed (or not) as time passed and its distribution and consumption changed.

I was also genuinely disappointed at the rather narrow focus in many ways: it's British-centric, when the role of tea as a social item/commodity/theme/etc. can be very different in places like China or India, etc. Discussions that also didn't move the book into the "modern" era was also disappointing--the rise of tea and tea shops or how matcha has become a bit of a fad (which it really shouldn't be) or even bubble tea from Taiwan (depending on where you are in the US, there are places where there are dozens of Boba tea shops on a block!) and the social role those types of stores play was a bit of a missed oppportunity.

BUT! I also realize that this is a 2001 version, so some of the things I mentioned might not have been as visible or accessible or as widely known. I'll be curious if the 2015 version addresses any of these topics.

Bought it as a bargain book and that was okay. Might recommend seeking out the 2015 version instead.
Profile Image for Stacy.
316 reviews12 followers
March 3, 2020
A good overview of the history of tea but felt lopsided in places, and seemed to focus a lot on what types of tea cups/utensils/bowls etc were used and when, listing multiple inventories from upper class houses throughout to show what they owned which made the reading at times tedious. I did enjoy the cultural history of it in places, and would have loved more in-depth information on that, especially how tea plantations in Ceylon and other areas affected the locals. But this was more of an overview. There were, as another reader noted, some points where something was assumed to be known by the average reader and I would have to stop to look up and then continue, some of the section endings also threw me as seemed abrupt as if the section was not finished - things that could have been edited better.

Overall, I felt I learned some new information as well as learning what I would like to learn more about and what I had no interest in, so gave me an idea of what I would want to focus on in future books like this.
Profile Image for Kathy.
487 reviews5 followers
June 5, 2019
An interesting overview of the history of tea drinking in the UK and America. Tea started its life in 17th Europe as an exotic luxury import only drunk by the discerning wealthy. Over the centuries it has had a surprising impact on social customs. Tea is a civilising drink that gave women space to chat away from the men and lead to the development of tea-shops and other public eating places that women could go to. It gave an alternative to alcohol where few other options existed before its introduction (fresh water wasn't generally drunk because of the impurities in it).

If you have any interest in tea this is a well written general overview of its impact on European and American social history. Tea is cheap and easy to get today and doesn't have the social cachet of past centuries, but the sheer amount of bad tea sold means that many also don't understand how good it can be as a drink with quality ingredients used. Like with Coffee there's a tea variety for everyone!
Profile Image for Jackie.
314 reviews7 followers
April 20, 2020
An academic look at the social customs and decorative arts that developed around the drinking of tea in the UK and US with enough history to provide background on the economics of the tea trade. Very educational to someone interested in this topic as a quick read and overview, perhaps a little too academic for the casual reader.
Profile Image for Libby.
303 reviews
August 2, 2017
Well researched, lots of details about purchases and prices. The author went to a lot of work to put together a thorough book about tea, but it is a bit monotonous in places.
Profile Image for Charaity Hubbard.
62 reviews
June 26, 2018
Very interesting read and very entertaining. Chock full of tea history but not a dry read at all. I wold definitely recommend this book for anyone interested in tea historically or socially.
Profile Image for Bethany.
91 reviews5 followers
August 5, 2019
Interesting, but not well organized and repetitive.
Profile Image for Felicity.
536 reviews14 followers
November 4, 2019
If you love all things tea...you'll love this book.
Profile Image for Malika.
396 reviews4 followers
March 26, 2024
A bit sanitized, but interesting! And I looooved all the photos and illustrations.
Profile Image for Rachel Knowles.
Author 8 books109 followers
August 24, 2015
This is a comprehensive study of the history of tea in England with added sections in this new edition from Bruce Richardson about the growth of tea drinking in America. The book starts with the origins of tea and takes you from the 17th century right up to the present day with the development of specialist tea houses like Comins Tea House in Sturminster Newton, Dorset, where I bought this book.

The book is divided up by century and within these chapters, it looks at different subjects such as the sources of the tea that was drunk, the sales of tea, tea taxes, taking tea out and at home, smuggling, tea wares and how tea went from being an extremely expensive and elitist beverage to the drink of choice of the masses. I found that at times the book repeated itself in different sections and the breakdown of the chapters led to some chronological toing and froing, but overall, I found it very readable.

My particular interest is in the Georgian period and I was impressed with the number of quotes from the household records and other contemporary sources which were included in the chapters on the 18th and 19th centuries.
Profile Image for Jaye.
267 reviews
February 2, 2013
Tea is my favourite drink, so I'm curious about its history and origins; how and why it has been enjoyed over the centuries. As an english woman, I have grown up drinking it and often think to myself as I sit down with a cup, how many generations have gone before me, using this same drink as a source of comfort and warmth. Hopefully I will get some interesting answers!

This would be the perfect choice for a coffee table book: its size, the art work, and of course, its theme. It's a book that I enjoyed lounging in the window seat with, with - you guessed it - a cup of tea. A good book to browse through and pick out which chapters interest you, rather than attempting to read it in its entirety: it is rather large. For example, you may be interested in the very origins of tea-drinking, or in the cultures/traditions surrounding it, i.e. afternoon tea; or in how the tea houses got started. Highly recommended for tea drinkers :)
Profile Image for Krista.
37 reviews1 follower
February 22, 2017
Very interesting read if you are a tea shop person!!
Profile Image for Rebecca Roberts.
5 reviews1 follower
May 24, 2017
I love this book. I first encountered it when researching a university essay and have been reading a chapter everything I visit The Leeds Library for about 2 years now!
A great social history, looking at different aspects of the beverages history.
Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews

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