Unknown Sands: Journeys Around the World's Most Isolated Country

by John W. Kropf

Turkmenistan was once the world's most feared territory. Since the time of the Mongols, the nomadic tribes of its vast desert wastes were deemed ungovernable. Russians and Persians were captured as slaves and carried off by the fierce Turkmen. Even now, as an independent country located between the hot spots of Afghanistan and Iran, with one of the planet's largest natural gas reserves, Turkmenistan remains virtually unknown to the outside world. Unknown Sands penetrates this remote and harsh land. This is a personal story that blends two years of adventure with Turkmenistan’s tumultuous history to present an intriguing profile of the country and its people. This former Soviet territory offers a target-rich environment for the unusual including a surreal cult of Presidential personality, ancient ruins of the Silk Road, and a unique, mystical brand of Islam.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Asia

224 pages, Hardcover

First published February 20, 2006

Reviews

[Diane · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the third and best of the books I have read recently on Turkmenistan. The author is a government lawyer who follows his wife to Turkmenistan when she takes a job with the US embassy there. The family lives in the US “compound” but make an effort to meet Turkmen and to learn the history of the country.

Turkmenistan still comes off as a really awful place with an egomaniac dictator and the worst of Soviet bureaucracy. This author does better than the others at dealing with these realities. I especially liked the author’s growing acceptance and eventual respect and love for the country and its people. After describing the vast brown expanses of nothingness, he begins to see the nuances of color and contour both in the country and in the people. He appreciates the friendship that is offered, recognizing that even speaking with Americans could have dire results for the average Turkmen. I particularly responded to his recognition that he may not have done much to change the Turkmen world but that Turkmenistan and its people have forever changed him.

[Ronald Schoedel III · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ever since I was a kid I've been fascinated by the central Asian (now-former Soviet) republics. Having a globe as a kid will do that. They just seemed so remote, so full of intriguing history (the age of empire played out across central Asia for millennia, with pressures from the east and the west). Turkmenistan rose to the top of my list early on (for who knows what reason), so when I finally came across a modern travelogue through Turkmenistan, obviously I had to read it.

Kropf served in the U.S. Embassy along with his wife back in the early 2000s, including at the time of the 9/11/2001 attacks, when many Americans were introduced to the existence of Turkmenistan by virtue of it being next to Afghanistan on maps. In the couple of years Kropf lived and worked in Turkmenistan, he got to travel the country, visiting ancient ruins, tribal villages, and marvelling over the then-President's many monuments to himself that filled the capital.

A quick and fascinating read, I felt like I learnt a lot about the geography, culture, and politics of this land. The pride of the Turkmen people in their ancient homeland and cultures inspired the author and it likewise inspired me. Unfortunately, Turkmenistan remains rated extremely low for human rights and freedoms, having been dominated completely by dictators since independence in 1991.

This book is nigh on 20 years old now, so I am on the lookout for an updated experience to compare and contrast with it. Perhaps I will get the experience of visiting Turkmenistan someday, but I suspect that will be challenging--the country is even more closed to foreigners than it was decades ago. So for now I will just have to go there through books.

[Conan · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone who is interested in the Central Asian countries, having this firsthand account of life in one of the world's most enigmatic places was pretty incredible. Sure, things have changed a bit since this was written, but outside of Ashgabat's (the capital) opulent marble buildings, there's a stark contrast to the rest of the country, which Kropf spent his time highlighted; I admit that I didn't know what to expect but from what he went through, I have a pretty clear picture of the reality on the ground. If you want a very rare modern account of a place that not many people have been to, this would be it!

[Claire Baxter · Rating 4 out of 5]

I traveled to Turkmenistan a few years ago and a lot of what he said brought back memories of women sweeping the highways, chaotic queues at airports, monuments to Niyazov all over the city. It is important to note (after reading criticism in other's reviews) that this is not a textbook or factual history of the country. It is one man's story of living there after his wife got posted to the US Embassy there. It is an easy read, entertainingly written although could have done with better editing as there are several glaring spelling mistakes.

[Lyrel]

This is the first book of any kind that I have read about Turkmenistan. It's interesting, but my Turkmen exchange student refutes some of what is written. I see it as a good introduction to an extremely private country.

[Janet Borgerson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating read. Took me to places that I knew Alexander the Great traversed, but of which I didn't truly comprehend the location. The author's enthusiasm for his experiences and the family dynamic add depth and interest and lightness.

[02AleisterH · Rating 4 out of 5]

My mom publised it so she has a couple of copies lying around but otherwise I liked it

[Ian Hefele · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reading a lot about places with one party states. Easy read. Little grating at times but I'm fascinated by places like Turkmenistan

[Joelle Lewis · Rating 2 out of 5]

Kropf makes no excuses for being an ignorant American, and his dry wit is delightful, but it is still a slog in far too many parts. The point is describing his various journeys, but they all become too much the same. I feel like my eyes were becoming blurred with sand. His work with USAID was undoubtedly important, and his wife was an important part of the Embassy staff. But if this was a travel documentary on TV, I'd never watch it.

He has written several newer books, and seems like his writing style improved; perhaps I'll look them up sometime.