Valuable advice from an expert in soil science. Intended for both small- and medium-sized gardens, Improving Your Soil reveals the steps to take to achieve the perfect soil in which to grow plants. With clear and specific directions on how to amend poor soil, modify mediocre earth, aerate compacted topsoil and substrates as well as test pH levels, this book enables any gardener to nurture their plants and promote more abundant growth. The features that indicate good soil include proper structure and nutrients that encourage healthy plant growth. Soil in "good tilth" is loamy, nutrient-rich and friable because it has an optimal mixture of sand, clay and organic matter that prevents severe compaction. Improving Your Soil shows gardeners how to improve the soil in their gardens to encourage good seed bedding and a strong root system for proper nutrient disbursement throughout various soil depths. Topics in the book The detailed information is complemented with line drawings, diagrams and illustrations that demonstrate various soil issues and how to resolve common problems. With information on remedying specific problems with particular plants, Improving Your Soil will be an often-consulted resource for all gardeners.
No, this is not the Keith Reid of Procol Harum fame but rather a Canadian soil scientist thankfully.
The single biggest thing I learned from this book is the nature of soil compaction. Every gardener who has dug in the soil recognizes this simple truth. "Don't dig when the soil is wet!" Yet, Reid helped me understand that it is more than that. On the typical suburban yard (not to mention urban plot), the soil has been vastly altered and compacted by any number of things, most typically earth moving equipment. While you as the home gardener may have worked the top 6 inches, it is very possible (likely) that at some point 6-12 inches below that, the soil is squished and compressed. Roots have a very difficult time when they hit that layer.
Here he is talking about soil 'structure' on pp 78-79...
"The health and vigor of the plant you see aboveground are a direct reflection of the health and vigor of the roots growing through the soil. Roots grow by adding new tissue at the root tips to push through the soil, and this tissue expands in diameter as the roots mature. For that to happen, there must be spaces into which the roots can grow, and the surrounding soil must have enough 'give' so that the expanding roots can push it aside. The roots of plants growing in soil with poor tilth become flattened or deformed as they squeeze past obstructions. These roots are not evenly distributed through the soil but are restricted to the outside of clods or on top of compacted layers. They are not able to reach much of the water and nutrients held in the soil, and thus the plants do not thrive."
Here he is talking about 'Available Soil Moisture' on page 104...
"Water in the soil can be divided into three catagories: 1.) Gravitational water (water that drains downward; 2.) Available water (water that is held in the soil loosely enough that plants can extract it; and 3.) Unavailable water (water bound so tightly to the soil particles that plants cannot extract it."
I had not considered catagories of water. Water was water. But it is not that simple and I was happy to learn about how water and nutrients work at the molecular level. I was also happy to read he is a firm proponent of not over tilling the soil as it disrupts the organic life in that top 4 inches.
While I do think it is important to understand the background regarding how soil interacts with the plants, I believe Reid overlooked a key area. While the home gardener obviously wants his or her garden to thrive, he does not speak about trees or shrubs except in passing. I would have loved to know how an elm, or pine, or walnut reacts to soil compaction problems for example. Yes, they probably won't do as well as they would on non compacted soil, but does it make any difference as to specific species of trees? Will a hickory or hydrangea grow on compacted clay subsoil? A tree is not only the largest potential thing of size in one's yard, but also the largest investment of the gardener's time. If it dies after 10 years, then what? You've not only lost that time, but now you must start over. Certainly not a problem with a radish or beet, but very much so if we're talking about a sugar maple.
Anyway, this is still a wealth of information that helps one understand what is going on beneath our feet.
An excellent book for the gardener interested in creating a sustainable soil environment where plants can thrive for generations to come. It's especially useful for a Canadian audience since it references many government agricultural bodies that can assist with soil testing and management. It was a surprisingly enjoyable read for a how-to book. While knowledge of your high-school chemistry class is beneficial this book is very accessible to the average reader.
Ultimately, Keith Reid is an extremely knowledgeable and, dare I say, earthy man. I really enjoyed his amicable tone and his obvious appreciation for the intricate nature of the natural world. I am adding this book to my purchase list since, when I actually get some land to work on, it will be a frequently sought out resource.
I never knew there was so much lo learn about the soil. I will be putting many of these principles to work as I finish with this year's garden and work on next year's. This book is written for anyone who has a vegetable garden. I think I have over-spaded my garden over the years. I never know that no-till principles could apply to me.
3.5 stars rounded down to 3. Lots of great information. I started reading it thoroughly, but there was just too much and I had to give up and skim for the applicable parts. The author mostly did a great job of making it easy to read and understand, I only had to look up a couple things to make sure I was understanding it correctly. But in the end it still ended up more textbook like than I would have liked. This would best be a reference book to keep on your shelf, not a one time check out from the library.
Improving Your Soil will have you fixing your garden quick with its understandable descriptions of soil structure and fertilizing options. Above this, it will allow you to finally understand how your plants and crops "eat" nutrients and grow to their potential. Highly recommended.
This is a great book for serious gardeners, especially those who grow vegetables. As a residential gardener who does not grow vegetables, I found it a bit less useful. The information was still interesting, but not as practical for my purposes.
When I first started reading this book, I thought it was the textbook to an online course I am taking through edX - via WageningenX on soils. the course is Sustainable Soil Management: Soil for Life. For me, this was great because it helped to reinforce a lot of what I was/am learning through the course.
The author covers quite a bit of ground (pun intended, here) on just what makes soil healthy and able to sustain life. He also includes how to help build up your soil, or recover soils that have been abused over time. Most abused soil occurs as the result of human intervention.
This is yet another book I would not mind having in my own personal library.
Improving Your Soil: A Practical Guide to Soil Management for the Serious Home Gardener by Keith Reid (Firefly Books 2014) (635.048). More than a book about composting, this is a primer (mostly in layman's terms) on soil science as a well as a practical guide to improving your soil. I'm aware that as a holistic gardener I must "feed the soil." I did not know, however, that there are more microorganisms in a teaspoon of garden soil that there are people on earth! My rating: 7/10, finished 8/8/14.
Textbook-ish. Thorough but readable. Valuable information throughout. None of my friends will read this book but some may ask me what I have learned. Bring on the questions ...