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Chef Edward Lee's story and his food could only happen in America. Raised in Brooklyn by a family of Korean immigrants, he eventually settled down in his adopted hometown of Louisville, Kentucky, where he owns the acclaimed restaurant 610 Magnolia. A multiple James Beard Award nominee for his unique patchwork cuisine, Edward creates recipes--filled with pickling, fermenting, frying, curing, and smoking--that reflect the overlapping flavors and techniques that led this Korean-American boy to feel right at home in the South. Dishes like Chicken-Fried Pork Steak with Ramen Crust and Buttermilk Pepper Gravy; Collards and Kimchi; Braised Beef Kalbi with Soft Grits and Scallions; and Miso-Smothered Chicken all share a place on his table. Born with the storytelling gene of a true Southerner, Lee fills his debut cookbook with tales of the restaurant world, New York City, Kentucky, and his time competing on Top Chef, plus more than 130 exceptional recipes for food with Korean roots and Southern soul.
495 pages, Kindle Edition
First published May 1, 2013
Lardo Cornbread Cornbread is a matter of controversy in my house. I know enough not to add sugar to the batter; but my wife always drizzles sorghum or maple syrup on it. "That's different," she says. Because I find most cornbread a little dry, I add so much fat to the batter that you don't miss the sugar. "That's cheating," she says, as she pinches the last crumbs of this cornbread into her mouth. I can't win. [Veggies & Charity | Lardo Cornbread]
[Y]ou can find pork rinds at most gas station convenience stores — they add flavor and depth to almost any dish. It makes me think, "What other culinary secrets are truck drivers hiding?" [Seafood & Scrutiny | Rice Bowl with Tuna, Avocado, Pork rinds, and Jalapeño Rémoulade]
I'm not a fan of simple potato salads, which only hold my attention for a bite or two. So I came up with this version for those nights when I want to eat only vegetables but I don't want it to feel too healthy or boring. [Veggies and Charity | WTF Potato Salad]
is a Japanese spice blend that you can find in Asian markets. It comes in cute bottles shaped like shotgun shells. There are a number of different varieties, but the basic ones contain a mix of chili powder, dried orange peel, dried seaweed, sesame seeds, and other seeds. [Bourbon and Bar Snacks | Togarashi ichimi]
I can't stand the word "fusion," not only because it is dated, but also because it implies a kind of culinary racism, suggesting that foods from Eastern cultures are so radically different that they need to be artificially introduced or "fused" with Western cuisines to give them legitimacy. For as long as I have been cooking in restaurants, it has been common practice for the cooks and waiters to sit down at staff meal and flavor our suppers with curry, salsa verde, soy sauce, Tabasco, mayo, teriyaki, melted butter, and that dreaded plastic bottle of "rooster sauce" (i.e., Sriracha) that exists in every restaurant kitchen. [...] [O]nce the restaurant doors open, we revert to serving a cuisine hampered by traditions and limitations. [...] If it is part of our vernacular, then it is part of our pantry. That's a simple mantra that I've tried to follow in my cooking, both at home and at the restaurant. Why exclude anything? If I like pork rinds and I like raw tuna, well, I'll be damned if they don't find a way into a dish together. It isn't forced. My culinary vernacular is broad, and it grows all the time. [Introduction: Rice Rémoulade]
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I think there's no meal that's more fun than tearing into a roast duck with a table full of friends. I serve the duck with lots of condiments. I like the abundance. I like fighting for it at the table. [Birds and Bluegrass | Honey-Glazed Roast Duck]
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There's always music playing in my kitchen. Different tempos for different times of the day. [...] there's a rhythm in what we do in our kitchens. I hear it in the steady chop of a knife against a cutting board, a whisk picking up speed in a bowl, or the constant movements of a stir-fry. I can tell how good a chef is just by listening to the sound of her knife work. It is quiet but steady and strong[...]
Dishes sing, ingredients have notes, flavors harmonize, BBQ rocks; the metaphors abound. I like metaphors because they can express thoughts in a way that the literal cannot. When I say I want to cook like Elvis, you know what I mean. [...]I want to cook the way Elvis lived his life — bold and untethered and agitated. I have admired and learned from so many great cooks [...] , and the best ones have inspired a melody. [...] I could fill a book with pages and pages on complicated pastry skills, but that doesn't get at why we want desserts and what we want out of them. We want them to make us sing [Buttermilk & Karaoke]
In its purest form, lardo is fat from the back of a pig [...] [u]sed for centuries in Italian cuisine, namely that from Colonnata, a Tuscan hamlet in the Apuan Alps, this food dates back to the time when Romans were the superpower. It's still made today by curing, spicing, and aging this exceptionally fatty cut of meat to create a rich charcuterie that can be eaten in many ways. [...] Lardo is thick, unctuous, and silky in texture, qualities that become more pronounced when enhanced with rosemary, garlic, sage, oregano, coriander, anise and cinnamon. Traditionally, lardo was cured in boxes made from Carrara marble [...] rubbed with garlic before layering the lardo and spices inside, and the contents left to age for six months.
[- Linnea Covington, The Spruce Eats | What is Lardo? (thespruceeats.com/what-is-lardo-4778951 )]