Postmodern Winemaking: Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft

by Clark Smith

In Postmodern Winemaking , Clark Smith shares the extensive knowledge he has accumulated in engaging, humorous, and erudite essays that convey a new vision of the winemaker's craft--one that credits the crucial roles played by both science and art in the winemaking process. Smith, a leading innovator in red wine production techniques, explains how traditional enological education has led many winemakers astray--enabling them to create competent, consistent wines while putting exceptional wines of structure and mystery beyond their grasp. Great wines, he claims, demand a personal and creative engagement with many elements of the process. His lively exploration of the facets of postmodern winemaking, together with profiles of some of its practitioners, is both entertaining and enlightening.

Genres: Wine, Food, Nonfiction

366 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2013

Reviews

[Darren · Rating 4 out of 5]

Can and should modern-day scientific methods be shoe-horned into the traditional way of making wine without just making a "chemical soup" into a high-tech "chemical soup"?

This is the crux of the matter under consideration by author and winemaker Clark Smith in his collection of thoughts that at times might appear rather provoking, a little mischievous and even heretical to some. Throughout the book, the author's humour shines through thanks to the well-written, descriptive text with gems such as a wine being made "… that had more of a canned tomato soup aroma than the fresh strawberry notes I was seeking."

A lot of this book isn't new per se, but it is compiled and curated and polished into this single volume from many previously-published journal items. The author is seeking to shake an often overly-traditional industry into the future, promoting a belief that he feels would benefit the industry as a whole, through a fairly coarse, plain-talking message. This book is probably going to be "too much" for the casual wine drinker, but those who are involved in the wine industry will, or should, find this message worthy of serious consideration. The more dedicated wine drinker or culinary professional stands to learn a fair bit too, challenging many perceptions and opinions on the way.

The author notes that wine is just like architecture - the aesthetic properties of both are barely derived from their actual composition, yet so many wine buffs fuss about the use of a certain barrel, a certain vine or a certain style. Yet it is how the various "ingredients" are put together that can have the greatest impact on the taste, the most important function of the wine. Many people who are resistant to change are fearful that technology will transform their traditional bottle of wine into a modern-day chemical soup of ingredients, whilst being oblivious that that is exactly what their traditional bottle comprises of. Postmodern winemaking is perhaps just shuffling the deck of cards a little, making the "soup" a better product. Just like any development, there are pluses and minuses and you will still encounter the equivalent of bulk-produced wine and more traditionally-influenced products.

The concepts espoused might sound either far-fetched, radical or just a fairly mundane, obvious being, dependent on your point of view, your openness and your grasp of (possible) reality. You probably won't, or shouldn't, agree with everything the author says and that is no bad thing either. The author wouldn't expect anything less. That said, this reviewer is a little mixed about this book. It is an interesting subject, a fine read and certainly thought-provoking to those who have a vested interest in wine that is greater than just consuming it. The book's relative complexity and its price point may push it out of reach of the general, interested wine consumer, which is a bit of a shame but an understandable side-effect. The author has done, in any case, a very good job in setting out his stall in a fairly plain language.

So what to say? This is a book certainly worth of consideration if the subject in hand makes your eyebrows start to dance, either in shock or with curiosity.

Postmodern Winemaking: Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft, written by Clark Smith and published by University of California Press. ISBN 9780520275195, 368 pages. Typical price: USD34.95. YYYY.


// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //

[Tuck · Rating 4 out of 5]

a fun read, though some of the chemistry can get tedious for some readers, clark smith brings forward and together serious thoughts and techniques of wine making in california. please be clear on that, this is overall a book about califa wine, though he cannot praise enough the exciting wines in iowa, yes iowa, and other, older usa places like long island, wisconsin, missouri, michigan, hah yeah it's true.
post modern winemaking in a sentance is the attempt to bring soul and terrior to a wine while incorporating sustainable practices for the farmers, land, water, air, and consumers.
clark smith is kinda controversial himself, promoting and selling micro oxygen bubblers to fine tune color, tannins, alcohol levels etc. and reverse osmosis to dial in exactly the alcohol level you want/need. he also advocates for wine that, and this is a gross generalization, may be naughty and unbroke as young, but will store and be super in 5 10 20 30 years. time will tell on that.
some interesting things though, for me, in 1972 there were about 200 wines in califa, now over 8000. world wide, now over 160,000.
what you find in your store is what modern capitalism and corporations decide is the "typical merlot" typical cab" "expected chardonnay" , NOT a quirky, terriory, or exciting wine, but good. NOT bad, just not "local". he stresses that consumers can do their best by seeking local wines and supporting local farmers, and or trying to get a wine shop to get nonmainstream wines in. and also to tell usa congress to change wine selling laws.
here is a poster that tries to illustrate his idea of post modern farmer winemaker, ignore the hype and verbiage about him trying to sell you something, he is an incorrigible capitalist.
http://postmodernwinemaking.com/intro...


also, has great endnotes, and interactive glossary http://postmodernwinemaking.com/glossary

and a fun experiment, try it yourownself, 3 wines, and music listening at same time. it is amazing how the music changes the taste. and kinda weird http://postmodernwinemaking.com/wine-...

would be a wonderful reference book for home and office.
i forgot to add, that he also is involved in AVA's appellationamerica.com and has some great ideas about how you can discover and understand wines by region instead of name or vineyard. also forgot to mention some leaders in post modern wine making dunn of howell mountain ; mcpherson of temecula ; zoecklein of virginia ; dharmadikari of iowa/missouri

[Brett Meier · Rating 5 out of 5]

The analogies Clark Smith uses get quite lengthy and elaborate, but aside it was a great read.

[Callum · Rating 3 out of 5]

A book with an incredibly narrow scope. Although it makes mention to a few other regions and varieties, it very much is a book that revolves around California and making premium Cabernet.

Interesting discussion surrounding micro-oxygenation, lees reincorporation and alcohol reduction.

[Lokisana · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent balance of technical skills, philosophical questions and wit. Smith does an incredible job balancing opinions and playing devil's advocate with himself, though allows himself the occasional bias. Quite intent on the issues in California winemaking, it can sometimes be slightly irrelevant, but is never boring. This is the sort of book you'll refer back to often, especially as a winemaker.

[Don Evans · Rating 5 out of 5]

It took a few "returns" to completely absorb this book because of its complexities. If you have little wine knowledge this is not the book to begin your journey.
This author is so ahead of his time and can make fools of some of today's experts. I love that his only allegiance is to the truth.
Please keep writing, mister Smith!

[Aaron · Rating 2 out of 5]

Don't bother buying the wine.