Shopping All the Way to the Woods: How the Outdoor Industry Sold Nature to America

by Rachel S. Gross

A fascinating history of the profitable paradox of the American outdoor visiting nature first requires shopping
 
No escape to nature is complete without a trip to an outdoor recreational store or a browse through online offerings. This is the irony of the American outdoor visiting wild spaces supposedly untouched by capitalism first requires shopping. With consumers spending billions of dollars on clothing and equipment each year as they seek out nature, the American outdoor sector grew over the past 150 years from a small collection of outfitters to an industry contributing more than 2 percent of the nation’s economic output.
 
Rachel S. Gross argues that this success was predicated not just on creating functional equipment but also on selling an authentic, anticommercial outdoor identity. In other words, shopping for the woods was also about being—or becoming—the right kind of person. Demonstrating that outdoor culture is commercial culture, Gross examines Americans’ journey toward outdoor expertise by tracing the development of the nascent outdoor goods industry, the influence of World War II on its growth, and the boom years of outdoor businesses.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Cultural, Environment, Book Club, Audiobook

304 pages, Hardcover

First published March 26, 2024

Reviews

[CatReader]

Rachel Gross is an assistant professor of history at the University of Colorado Denver whose research focuses on the intersection between the environment and business. Her 2024 book Shopping All the Way to the Woods, is likely inspired by her 2018 doctoral dissertation on the same topic - namely, the history, commodification, and consumer targeting of outdoor goods and supply companies (LL Bean, Eddie Bauer, Patagonia, old school Abercrombie and Fitch before its '90s reinvention as a teen fashion brand, etc.). She explores how the ideal of the American outdoorsman (virtually always a man) was established in 1800s and how that image has echoed through our current times, even if said outdoorsman is someone who dresses the part but doesn't actually go outdoors much. This was an interesting read, though overly repetitive and markedly politically slanted.

Further reading: businesses and brand images
The Sum of Small Things: A Theory of the Aspirational Class by Elizabeth Currid-Halkett
The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew―The Epic Tale of American Fashion Style and Retail Evolution by Maggie Bullock
Selling Sexy: Victoria’s Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon by Lauren Sherman

My statistics:
Book 232 for 2025
Book 2158 cumulatively

[Shelly Jackson]

3.5 stars. Interesting topic and content, and I did feel like I learned some interesting things. But much of it felt quite repetitive.

[Emerson K]

An absolutely phenomenal read. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this book, but I was completely captivated by the content. Gross masterfully paints a detailed and multifaceted picture of the history of the commercial outdoor industry, keeping the narrative engaging throughout. It's fascinating to realize that even something as simple as a tent or a down jacket carries with it a rich and complex backstory—one that includes histories of sexism, racism, and classism.

There were many "Aha!" moments for me as I read, particularly in seeing how the outdoor industry has dramatically evolved over time, yet in many ways, remains unchanged.

I’ll be recommending this book to everyone I know, especially those who enjoy spending even a small amount of time outdoors. If you've ever purchased anything from an outdoor clothing or gear company, this book is a necessary read.

[Nahanni McKay]

I look at all my gear differently now

[Corky]

*audiobook*

This really delivered the deep dive I was looking for on nature oriented consumerism. I enjoyed the historical timeline that introduced new brands, themes, and trends as time progressed.

I found the conversation around the idea of selling an identity really fascinating. For example, the placement of 'real' outdoor gear in catalogs served to provide 'proof' that the brand supported rugged outdoor activities; even while the majority of sales hinged more on the possibility, or even the mere idea of, outdoor adventure.


Only real complaint was there could have been a bit more coverage of more recent developments. The granola girlie ( and similarly minded folk) influencer culture is certainly related to, and perhaps a new manifestation of, frameworks already discussed in this book.

Overall I would highly recommend to anyone interested in the weird dynamic between getting back to nature, but first getting out a credit card to prepare.

[Mira Sturdivant]

When my wife and I camp with others, I am very intrigued by the difference in gear among us all. We have two close friends who buy the most equipment despite camping the least - purchasing goods at REI is the lifestyle. They obsessively "upgrade" to the latest ultra-lite despite not ever backpacking. We have family who don't camp, but will not trust me that we will make do and make well, so they show up with brand new everything that they don't need and wouldn't know how to use if they did. We have friends who spend the trip comparing merch, embarrassed that they have "only" the Ozark Trail (Walmart) versions of every specialized piece of equipment.
My wife and I have a bounty of things we deem necessary. But we always hope to buy once and use forever, never replacing unless necessary (certainly not because we want something shiny and new), we mend and repair. We bring "house" utensils, plates, mugs - instead of purchasing special plastic "camping" utensils and plates, and special enamel "camping" mugs (something that somehow always shocks someone). When camping near enough to our car, we have a small bed roll of tried-and-true blankets rather than space age sleeping bags, which I'll smugly say blows people's minds - everyone hates sleeping bags but it is a core belief that you can NOT tent camp without one. But wow am I grateful for the improvements in TENTS (ease of set-up, breathability, material) over the decades! When we backpack, I'm beyond happy to wear fancy new wicking, lightweight, comfortable fabrics. And some "essentials" are even married to a corporation brand name: coleman camp stove, sawyer squeeze.

SO.... as someone who spends almost half my time in the woods, this book was on my "read immediately" list as soon as I discovered it.

It roped me in immediately - I'm always thinking about the path from the 1800s "woodsman" trend to the neon nylon REI we have today, and the path from exclusive wilderness camping to established national parks and campsites made of big concrete pads.

Now a lot of this book would be incredibly boring to people who don't enjoy bland "research" style academic writing... which is most people, including academic researchers themselves. It reads like an extended college dissertation. Some sections are stretched thin. It suffers from the issue of including every tiny little shred of information discovered on each topic, no matter how much it really adds to our understanding. It is sometimes confusing, jumping forwards and back in time (a lot of thinking "wait what? Oh, I see, this is now BEFORE the invention we were just talking about the consequences of?").

But a lot of this was too fascinating to quit reading. And I did NOT know Abercrombie & Fitch... yes THAT one... began alongside Eddie Bauer and LL Bean, as an "outdoorsman" store selling guns and fishing gear in stores that had tent and log campfire seating areas.

[Jack Barnes]

Hard to rate this book, at least for me.

I think the history is interesting. And appears well researched.

How the businesses evolved and were run, to some degree, shows the author has no knowledge of actual business. Of how a business is run. But how trends were created and evolved, at least through research, was again ... interesting.

The bias that is evident throughout the book, I found distracting and annoying.

And I guess I would say this. The author claims to be an outdoors person. But from what I read, I don't know that I really see that or get that.

Yes, I believe components of what she highlights ... being a capable outdoorsman as a path or validation of manhood may be a component on some level. And yes, I am guilty of the notion that I wear outdoor apparel to reflect my love for the outdoors... but that's because I love the outdoors.

I don't camp/hunt/fish to prove anything to anyone. I do it because I love it. I do photography for two reasons ... because I love photography and because it gets me outdoors.

I think the slights and biases and cultural issues she takes with the industry are, in fact, a function of running a business. Not necessarily concious biases. But she had an agenda, and she was devout in sticking to that.

Gross captured some cool stats that I didn't know and learned about some companies I've long shopped. That was cool. She missed some core things as well, that makes me wonder how she decided what to include and what not to include. In this, I would say she wholly ignored the hunting and fishing aspects of this business which had their own role in how these businesses evolved.

I will never read this book again. Ever. But I'm glad to have read it for the interesting tidbits.

[Seth]

I found that the book mostly delved into the undeniable historical aspect of the outdoor gear, while obviously touching on the notion that the historical aspect of outdoor advertising has been rooted in nostalgia and for years prior. I look at other reviews and see people upset at biases, however I didn’t pick up on any biases, most of it is either indisputable or an understood idea & practice. I enjoyed this book, and the history of the outdoor industry was fascinating to read about. I think to treat this as the definitive history of outdoor gear and companies is a bit of a misconception, rather than touching on some of the most important & industry-defining brands.

[Karli Sherwinter]

We read this for our neighborhood book club, and we will be discussing the book with the author this summer. This is an academic history of the outdoor clothing industry, and how it impacted the way Americans related to the outdoors. I particularly loved the history of Holubar Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado. Shopping at REI from now on will always have a more intellectual element.

[Paige]

It’s been a long time since I’ve read a book that was so good at putting me to sleep.

Don’t get me wrong! It wasn’t bad. There was a lot of interesting history and information here. And the writing wasn’t overly academic despite being from a university press. There was just something about the writing style that made my eyes close of their own accord after a few pages.

[Justin M.]

Not quite the history of the outdoor industry I was hoping for. While it does provide a nice overview of various trends (postwar boom, increasing commercializations) and desires present within the North American context, I felt like it was quite repetitive overall.

[Larry]

I was excited to read this. It seemed really interesting and I never heard of anyone digging into this arena. But it is pretty damn dry with little humor. I kept thinking "Where is Bill Bryson when you need him?". A bit of humor would've livened this research paper up a bit.

[Rosie]

I picked this book up after hearing the author discuss her research on the Articles of Interest podcast, season 2 “Gear”. I found this a really fascinating examination and learned a lot about the long history and relationship between outdoor gear and the military that I wasn’t aware of.

[Carol Fischer]

Had no idea of the history of outdoor gear, or how so many familiar retails began. Certainly did not know lederhosen was preferred hiking wear in the US in the 60s and 70s, and could be purchased at REI. Interesting to hear the evolution and ups and downs of Eddie Bauer and A&F.

[Emily]

Oof. I was really excited about this one and I wish it was better. Cool concept, but Gross belabors points instead of chasing threads. That makes sense, seeing that this book is an extrapolation of her thesis. She has some great ideas, great points, great historiography, but I wanted to read the gear catalog against the gear catalog, because reading the gear catalog is the fun part; but Gross has managed to write the boring letter at the beginning of the gear catalog as book, with a cast of characters who developed gear and owned stores. Names you know, like Abercrombie and Fitch, and L.L. Bean's boot stomping pond out back of his store; and people you've never heard of because they ran specialist catalogs out of their homes in the '50s, or the Native women who sold buckskin jackets to the first outdoors poseurs.

I hope Gross keeps researching this topic over and over again until she gets it right. There's an absolutely fantastic book somewhere in here.

[Victoria]

A must read for anyone that loves buying outdoor gear

[NEEKO Lodato]

So interesting loved it

[Cody]

Compelling and well-researched, Gross shows that, from the start, optics and identity have often trumped function in the world of outdoor gear and fashion.

[Elissa]

This book was both interesting and well read. A very accessible history book.

[Monica]

Oddly fascinating.

But also, guilty as charged. *buys another pair of running shoes *

[Summer]

I have no idea how this book ended up on my radar (it is decidedly an academic text) but I’m so happy it did! Absolutely fascinating to learn about the outdoor clothing industry in America.

[ava!]

history has been kind of ruined for me as a field after my traumatic seminar experience last term but i did like this a lot and found it really interesting

[Samrat]

Fascinating and just really well researched and argued. I'd love to read more of the sources Gross pulls from too.

[Sherry]

4.5

[James]

This is a fantastic history for those interested in retail, the outdoors, or both. It is at times difficult to accept that views and practices that are deeply held are also somewhat contrived. But in the end, it is good to know the back stories -- how much of our thinking about the outdoors has been shaped by those we pay to equip us for outdoor experiences.