Back when I had a TV to watch things on, I invariably found myself watching various shows on channels that I might once have looked down my nose at, because I'm a recovering snob to a certain degree. It wasn't that huge of a leap for me to, having embraced Tony Bourdain's snarky disdain via "No Reservations" and "Parts Unknown," look down upon the Food Network, the target of much of his disdain. But then a funny thing happened; I started tuning in and liking many (though not all) of the shows I found there. Even Guy Fieri, a cultural punching bag, could be entertaining if I was in the right mood (and later prove to be a stand-up guy during the COVID shutdown of last year). So the Food Network, cheesy as it could be sometimes, ended up being something that I watched on a regular basis.
"From Scratch: Inside the Food Network" by Allen Salkin gets into the history of the channel, its troubled birth and cruel childhood of being a red-headed stepchild to the emerging cable TV industry foreshadowing its eventual climb to be the premier destination of cooking shows, cooking competitions, and travel-foodie shows. It's a fascinating read at times, occasionally bogged down by the sort of "behind the scenes" business deal reporting that doesn't always play as compelling narrative but which is important to understanding the ups and downs of television's major culinary channel. And the gossip about the personalities (like Bourdain, Rachael Ray, Mario Batali, Bobby Flay, and others) is hard to beat.
Salkin covers the unlikely origin story of the network and its even more unlikely creator, Joe Langhan (no foodie, he was more comfortable with take-out pizza that had been in his car for a week). Beginning in 1993, the Food Network tried to overcome the lack of interest it often came up against from potential investors and viewers by offering them a chance to watch some dynamic hosts serving up recipes and meals that many had never experienced before outside of New York or other major cities. The channel built up an audience with hosts like Emeril Lagasse, Alton Brown, Ray, and Flay, and brought "Iron Chef" to the States first as an import of the original Japanese show and then as an Americanized version. From "Emeril Live" to "Chopped," from Julia Child to Paula Deen, the Food Network has in its almost thirty years been both a blessing and a curse to the notion of food culture, but the overall impact is that it has opened doors for the average consumer to venture into more daring fare and more economical cooking.
The book is a quick read, even the bits about the business side (with a lot of turnover among the presidents of the network and even who owned it over the years, it's something of a miracle that the Food Network didn't fold), and like I said, the behind-the-scenes stuff about various personalities is very interesting. In the wake of Bourdain's death, Batali's fall from grace over sexual harassment charges, and other scandals, it would be interesting to revisit the story of the Food Network in more recent times (the book was published in 2013). But for now, "From Scratch" is the inside scoop on how a channel built around cooking shows managed to change television and whet viewers' appetites for food-centric programming.