This was a very readable overview of the human history and some of the geology of the Mississippi River (occasionally touching upon some of the plants and animals that call the river basin home though it is not a natural history book); it is mostly a good popular account of human history along the river with some sections framed by accounts of the author (or the author and his son) traveling on the river itself or on sites associated with the river. Though most of the book is dedicated to the Mississippi River and the lands immediately surrounding it the author many times detailed event on rivers that fed into the Mississippi (the Ohio River figured a lot into some sections) or even peripheral regions (such as the Great Lakes, only sort of part of the Mississippi River drainage) when events that occurred there had an impact on human history on the Mississippi River.
The book was divided into seven books, each organized around a theme and covering a specific span of history, the books varying from three to nine chapters in length. There was no separate section of color or black and white plates but photographs, art, and maps were included in the chapters. Occasionally some of the older maps could be hard to read but for the most part I really enjoyed the various maps. I would have liked a few more photographs of the author’s travels but this is a minor complaint.
Book One (“River of Giants”), was to me sadly the weakest book of the book. It was by no means bad, but it just didn’t make much of an impression (fortunately all the other chapters to me were stronger). It is possible I am being unfair because of it had such general coverage of topics I have read about before – the ice sheets that covered North America, the Clovis and Folsom cultures, Pleistocene megafauna – and was never bad or as far as I could tell inaccurate, it just read like the general introductions common to other history books I have read on say the history of Indiana or Michigan.
Book two (“River of Mounds”) was very interesting, covering many of the fascinating mound sites along the river (and the rivers that flow into the Mississippi), from the various effigy mounds of the upper Mississippi River watershed (what they “lack in elevation, they make up for in scale and in frequency,” noting in one passage that at one point one area in Wisconsin had “some twelve hundred effigy mounds,” with the author describing a visit to Effigy Mounds National Monument in Iowa that had nearly nine hundred “earthen sculptures associated with it,” as fascinatingly these types of mounds weren’t simply raised areas of earth but shaped into animals and people, some once huge – such as a 225 foot bird effigy that once existed in Hokah, Minnesota – though sadly a great many of these mounds are plowed or built over) to the mounds of Hopewell Culture National Monument in Ohio (now “really sort of a monument to a monument, or a reenactment of a ruin,” as during World War One the Army leveled the mounds and it was only after World War Two that the mounds were restored) to Cahokia in Illinois (at its peak the largest pre-Columbian city in North America, with 120 mounds and the massive earthwork known as Monks Mound, “a flat-topped pyramid that covered seventeen acres at its base and rose 100 feet over a perfectly level plaza”) to Great Serpent Mound in Ohio. I enjoyed the author’s descriptions of visits to some of these mounds and thought that it was some effective writing.
Book three (“River of Fortune”) covered the ebb and flow of Native American, Spanish, and French control of the Mississippi River and associated lands prior to British and later American dominance. Opening with a wonderful contrast of the Spanish and French entrances to the Mississippi watershed (the “Spanish came in armies that numbered in the hundreds and marched in relative formation with attendant slaves and retainers from the Caribbean and Africa; the French party consisted of six fur traders and a priest”), the author treats us with tales of first encounters with various tribes and Native American nations, the horrors of torture at the hands of Native Americans (covered in sometimes gruesome detail), the first European use of the word Messi-Sipi (an Ojibwe/Algonquin word meaning “big long river,” not “Father of Waters”), an account of the author and his teenaged son’s camping and boating trip down part of the Mississippi (one in which they “stuck to our plan of no plan and dawdled with abandon”), the tenuous claim France had to the Mississippi watershed, and some decent coverage of the Ohio River and why it figures so often in this book (“…Up the Ohio, past the mounds of Chillicothe; past the Iroquois battlegrounds and the mammoths of Big Bone Lick; past the falls at Louisville and the mouth of the Tennessee; past the Meadowcroft Rockshelter with it Paleolithic flint and past the Ohio’s own great fork at Pittsburgh…” ; clearly the Ohio alone would have made a great book topic).
Book four (“River of Empires”) covered the English and French struggle for the Mississippi River watershed, the fall of the Iroquois dominance in the region, and the eventual win by the Americans. Major topics include the causes, courses, and consequences of the French and Indian War (among other things effectively ending a strong French presence in North America and also causing George Washington to emerge “from the war as the most experienced commander among the colonial militia,” a fact obviously important later), the removal of most of the Native American tribes and nations from the Mississippi River watershed (with fortunately a few groups still remaining such as the Haudenosaunee of the Iroquois League still “in their historic heartland, straddling the country between the Allegheny, Lake Erie, the Hudson, and the Susquehanna,” as well as some of the “Ho-Chunk, or Winnebago,” remaining in Wisconsin, the Ojibwa still at Leech Lake, and the “Tsalagiyi Detsadailvgi, or Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians, are still in the Great Smoky Mountains on a tributary to the Tennessee River”), the importance of the War of the 1812 to American control of the watershed, some coverage of the many Indian wars (from the Arikara War of 1823 to Crazy Snake Rebellion in Oklahoma in 1909), and an account of the author’s paddling trip down the Alleghany River.
Book five (“Life on the Mississippi”) was to me the best part of the book, certainly the “meat and potatoes” I was hoping to get when reading a book on the river. The nineteenth century Mississippi River and life actually on the river (largely before the Civil War) is the star of this section of the book and it did not fail to satisfy. Many things were covered, including Kentucky flats (flatboats, most actually built in Brownsville, Pennsylvania on the Monongahela, one of the most common pre-steamboat boats on the river, dominant in the early nineteenth century), the evolution of music on the river (describing the voyageurs songs for instance as “often ribald, as befitting the artistic output of…men a thousand miles from any woman they knew”), some of the culture of New Orleans (“then, as now, was unlike any other city in North America”), some of the navigational hazards of the rivers (including long sand bars known as “reefs,” “ripples” or “shoals” where sand or gravel bars come in quick succession, rapids or “falls,” named sandbars like “Big-Bone, Pig’s Eye, Beef Slough, and Scuffletown”) as well as “sawyers” (“snags that pointed downstream and vibrated in the current,” that “could be massive trunks of old-growth trees, battering rams sixty feet long, or more”), “preachers” (snags that pointed upstream, “and were even more dangerous because they bowed up and down in the current, as if baptizing their business end”), Cave-in-Rock (a cavern that is on the Ohio River on the Illinois side between Evansville, Illinois and Paducah, Kentucky, which had a fascinating history as hideout for river pirates, well covered in the book), yellow fever (also known as yellow jack, with some epidemics in New Orleans claiming upwards of 20,000 lives), keelboats (the only pre-steamboat river boat really designed with upriver travel in mind, something that “without the benefit of steam power was backbreaking, soul-breaking, foot-rotting, snake-biting, fever-inducing, highly dangerous, low-paid work”), the brief attempt to enforce monopolies on the use of steam power on certain stretches of the river by certain people, the many varied economic and social effects of steamboats, the causes and horrors of steamboat explosions, a bit on the experiences of famous authors on the river (all too brief, but with some nice views from Dickens and Audubon), and a bit of coverage of the experience of slaves on the river which made for interesting if quite grim reading, noting among other things that slaves were rarely used as workers on riverboats because the rigors of work on the river “would greatly depreciate him as chattel.”
Book six (“River of blood”) was also excellent, covering events on the Mississippi River leading to the Civil War and the course of the Civil War on the river itself, primarily focused on New Orleans and Vicksburg (with some excellent coverage of Vicksburg). I really enjoyed reading about how Jefferson Davis, six years before he became president of the Confederacy, tried to stop the construction in 1854 of the first bridge across the Mississippi River (the Rock Island Bridge, at Rock Island, Illinois), a bridge that he opposed not because of concerns from “city fathers of St. Louis and the owners of steamboats” but because this train would bring in a flood of new settlers – anti-slavery or at least Free-Soilers – to new territories out west and disrupt the balance between slave states and free states. Also interesting was that the bridge was built in part thanks to a topographical survey down by a young lieutenant Robert E. Lee in 1837 and that later the railroad company in a lawsuit from the steamboat industry hired former congressman and lawyer Abraham Lincoln to defend them in court.
The final book, book seven (“On the Lake of the Engineers”) was only three chapters but covered a great deal of the Mississippi. I felt it could have been longer but was nonetheless good reading, covering the author’s journey to the mouth of the Mississippi River (happening to coincide with the BP oil spill in 2009), had some really good coverage of the history of navigational improvements and flood controls on the river, decent coverage of some of the many floods on the river (especially the infamous 1927 flood), some of the personalities involved in this stage of the river’s history (most interesting to me was James Eads for whom Eads Bridge in St. Louis is named for, a bridge that was the first bridge built of steel, built by Eads, a man who had never built a bridge, who later parlayed that fame into constructing “a pair of gigantic jetties constricting the mouth of the river [that] would scour out a year-round navigational channel,” one that he was so confidant that would work that he built it with his own money and would only take payment only after the channel was open), the possible future new course of the Mississippi River (the Atchafalaya River as the last major distributary stream not already closed by levee builders is in the process it seams of “abducting the main stream”), and why the Mississippi Delta is shrinking (and how bad this is), the fault particularly of dams which alter river speed and flow, allowing sediment to settle before it reaches the Gulf of Mexico, a third of what it was a century ago now reaching the delta, thanks to 50,000 plus dams on the Mississippi River watershed (5,099 in Missouri alone).
There is an extensive bibliography, source notes, and index.