Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing sixteenth - century dress

by Ninya Mikhaila, Jane Malcolm-Davies

The book provides 36 patterns and full step-by-step instructions, detailed diagrams and photographs that show the finished garments worn by real people. There is also general advice on choosing materials, construction methods, and an insight into the Tudor tailor's sewing kit.

Genres: Fashion, History, Nonfiction, Sewing, Fashion History, Reference, Tudor Period

160 pages, Paperback

First published April 1, 2006

Reviews

[Panya · Rating 5 out of 5]

Although The Tudor Tailor seems to be aimed primarily at reenactors, it is a useful read for anyone interested in 16th century life. After all, clothing has always been a massive part of our lives—perhaps more so in the past when clothing represented a bigger part of the social order (as the book succinctly puts it, what was worn was less about "understanding yourself and more about knowing your place") than it does now.
The book includes 36 patterns—for everything ranging from hoses to hats. These are enough to put together a outfit (of either gender) from either the Elizabethan or Henrician periods. Several of the patterns also have variations. While some of the fabrics are no longer in production, The Tudor Tailor offers potential alternatives (such as brushed cotton or cotton moleskin for fustian) that'll greatly aid attempts to recreating a historically-accurate look.

[Stephanie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is so good! I must read for anyone interested in 16th century English clothing. The first section of the book goes into all of the research that goes into reconstructing what people wore during this period. The authors make extensive use of period sources such as wills, portraiture, and documents of orders of fabrics to be made up into garments by tailors. The research is really well done and documented and is great for anyone who lacks the time, inclination or access to look through all of these sources themselves. There's an excellent discussion of different types and colors of fabrics used in period including interesting tid bits like the term cotton being used to refer to a type of wool in period and not to any fabric made from the cotton plant.

There is also a chapter discussing all of the various layers of clothing and how they would have been worn. They refute several common myths about clothing in period including the ubiquitousness of full boned supportive garments and the restriction of all shades of certain colors to specific classes of people. (I've heard everything from red to black to purple being supposedly exclusively worn by one group of people or another.) Sumptuary laws did exist but weren't always enforced successfully and would often refer to one specific shade or subset of shades that required specific expensive dyes to produce while other, less vibrant shades of the same color could be produced by more inexpensive plant dyes. I particularly the inclusion of a picture of a whole range of wool yarn dyed with various plant dyes available in period.

There's also some really great discussions on how clothing functioned socially in period. Fabric was so expensive that gowns were often remade as the fashions changed, given as gifts and bequeathed to people in wills. So different from how we treat clothing today! Whether you are interested in making these types of garments yourself or are researching about life in this period, there is lots to enjoy here.

The second half or so of the book includes patterns. Each pattern is given on a grid for you to size up to full scale. This pattern format is not the most beginner friendly but will give a good place to start the mock up process. I'm lucky to be close in measurements to the women's size but you may need to do additional grading once the pattern is full sized. The pattern instructions are not as detailed as modern commercial patterns and may take a bit of puzzling out if you are not familiar with constructing historical garments. Fitting advice is also included for some patterns. Multisize paper patterns are also available from their store if sizing up and grading is not your thing.

There are six basic sets of patterns-men's lower class, Henrician and Elizabethan plus the same for women's. Lots of the patterns come with various options for sleeves, necklines and outerwear plus accessories so you can create quite a wardrobe with just these patterns!

I have made up the fitted English gown as well as used one of the skirt patterns to combine with a self drafted bodice for an Italian 16th century gown. Both turned out really great!

[J · Rating 5 out of 5]

An excellent book for anyone interested in social history, as well as in sixteenth century clothing. I was fascinated by the information on what pieces of clothing etc people left in their wills. There are interesting sections on the differences in clothing between the classes, genders, and how people actually wore the various layers. It must have taken a lot of time and effort (no doubt on the part of servants!) to maintain the clothing of higher-class nobles - again an interesting topic.

The book also includes patterns that you can enlarge to use in recreating a number of garments - though you can also buy patterns from The Tudor Tailor (to avoid the need to scale up etc).

[James · Rating 4 out of 5]

A gorgeous book, a nice selection of middle class Elizabethan dress suitable for RenFaire. Lots of historical research and notes. Patterns for clothing must be enlarged and are not separate from the book. No patterns for children, poor, or wealthy. A decent source, if I was more active about faire I'd buy a copy.

[Bianca · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fantastic resource. This is the team’s first book and it’s ambitious, but you can see why it quickly became a staple for costumers. Driven by historical research and their experience in making reenactment clothing, this is a must for any historical fashion enthusiast.

[Jaye Sudar · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wow. the detail... Very good book.

[Ekaterina · Rating 5 out of 5]

An absolute must-have for anyone interested in sewing Renaissance garb! Five stars are not enough.

[Becca Weaver · Rating 5 out of 5]

Incredibly detailed and helpful!

[Liselotte · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was a really interesting read! I do wish there was an updated version (maybe there is but I haven't found it yet), but overall it's a great addition to my collection.

[Ella · Rating 4 out of 5]

I mostly obtained this so as to see if I want my own copy to try and sew some stuff from. Verdict: yes, I do.

[Sarah Bent · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a phenomenal resource about the fashions of the Tudor era.

[Caroline Palmer · Rating 5 out of 5]

An amazing guide for the DIY costumer beginner interested in Tudor clothes.

[Maia Olive · Rating 5 out of 5]

wonderful resource for tudor costuming

[Zara · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcom-Davies, among others, have written a wonderful book about the clothes worn in Tudor England. It contains plenty of historical sources: extracts from wills and bills; paintings; engravings and effigies. The research they've done is fascinating. It has loads of information that is useful and interesting, such as drawings of typical clothes for men, women, nobles and ordinary people for each decade or so. It also has a table with different types of fabric, a description and its uses. In the back, the book contains patterns, instructions and photos to help you make your own historically accurate costumes.

I got this for Christmas last year, and immediately made one of the easier patterns (a Fitted English Gown from the 1560s) for myself. I would say that this book is only really useful for those incredibly interested in the era and the costume, and for those who do want to make costumes. Quite a lot of sewing experience is necessary. I have been sewing for a few years but I needed my grandmother to help me with things like setting sleeves, the instructions for which aren't in the book. Some of the instructions that are there are also quite hard to follow; you really do need two people attempt making a costume in order to stay sane. However the photos are useful and the costume you have in the end is really lovely, accurate and fairly robust. The research in the beginning is really great, useful not only for people who want to make the costumes but also for writers who want good, reliable and comprehensive information about what people wore in the era, nobles and ordinary people alike.

I would suggest that if you are intending to make the costumes, you order the patterns from their online shop. It is very difficult to massively scale up the patterns provided unless you are expert, and the online versions have different shapes for different sized people, in British dress sizes. Patterns are posted to your home (although they are expensive at around £40!!! a go!).

[Gaile · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book explains Tudor fashion throughout the 16th century based on paintings, letters and the few garments from the period still surviving. Garments for both men and women are described from head to toe. Pictures of examples abound through out the book. Construction is explained. Patterns and directions are provided for making the garments although the patterns are not full sized. They are rather doll sized which I think would be fun for dressing a doll. To make full sized costumes, you would have to first draft full patterns through measures from those provided in the book. This is also explained. Although embroidery and fastenings are explained, there are embroidery patterns provided in the book. Hair dressing for women is described. There is a list of suppliers in the back of the book. Even if you do not sew, this book should be interesting to anyone interested in the history of the Tudor period and it is not as expensive as the other books now on the market on Tudor costuming.

[snowgray · Rating 3 out of 5]

The actual reading portion of this book is brief; someone looking for a long, well-documented study of clothing in the Tudor period would be left hungry. However, the book gives a strong overview of Tudor clothing habits, backed up by documentation both secondary (contemporary paintings) and primary (actual clothing). Furthermore, it includes patterns that can be sized up to create a few basic items of the Tudor wardrobe, with "Henrician" and "Elizabethan" variants. The written directions are somewhat confusing, though some patterns feature step-by-step photographs (not all). A novice sewer might feel lost, but someone willing to make practice items to check the size and fit of the patterns would probably do well. I have not yet created clothing from the patterns in the book, though I intend to do so, and will update at that point.

[Rebecca Hansen · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book has some great construction techniques. The costumes themselves can be somewhat plain, which might be historically accurate but that depends on the character you are playing. If playing higher nobility the difference in station can be easily remedied by the costumer. Other that that the book was very good. Ninya includes many patterns that just need to be blown up to the appropriate size. Overall this is a must have for any re-enactor or cosumer of the Tudor Era.

[Laura · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent!

This is by far the most in depth book about all aspects of Tudor period clothing; it would be excellent for re-enactors/period dresses (costumes) as it goes into great depth explaining how things were made & worn.

It isn't so much a picture book, so don't buy it if you're expecting luscious colour photos of historic clothing. But if you're interested in the Tudor Period, especially the fashion, then this is definitely the best book that I have personally come across.

[Ash · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the kind of book you could happily sit and read as well as work from. It not only covers the garments (with patterns for men and women of all major styles within the time period) but what they should be made of, in what colours, how they should be worn and accessorised, and most importantly where all that information came from and how it was interpreted. It's a good history book as well as a good costuming book, and that is rare.

[Erin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great guide to the construction of Tudor clothing. It starts out with a narrative on what was typical in the way of clothing during that time and follows up with tutorials on how to make specific items of clothing. I was so excited to get this as a gift since I love to make Renaissance clothing but sometimes struggle to determine what was usual during that time period.

[Ruth · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fabulously useful (but not if you have NO sewing experience. Definitely not for beginners. The pictures are gorgeous, the text paints a great picture of the times, and the patterns are excellent. I can't wait to make something out of this book!

[CJ · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good book for what Tudor-era people wore and how these articles might have been made. Includes several suits for the peasants and middle class as well as the elite. The patterns, along with those of Jean Hunnisett, look to be do-able. I hope to try in the future.

[Caroline · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fantastic combination of technical and historical reading, combining the patterns and know-how needed to recreate authentic costumes with the social history of clothing. Fascinating and invaulable in equal measure!

[Rebekah Lewis · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you like Tudor fashion you need this book. End of story, no questions asked.

There are patterns to draft, instructions, close up beautiful photos, information on dye, jewelry and all that fun stuff! YOU NEED THIS BOOK

[Misty Rae · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've been waiting a long time to get my hands on this book. The patterns within are very well researched and the pictures are as inspirational as can be.

I cannot wait to get started on my first Tudor gown using this book as one of my master references.

[Tina · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love this, it is a great guide.
Clear and simple with good photos, illustrations, tips and advice.
As I am currently in costume mode it has spurred me on.
Definitely worth buying a copy to add to my resources.

[Leslie]

I want!

[Llyra karow · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great costumeing book:)

[Miriam · Rating 4 out of 5]

Good book as a patterning resource. It was lacking on its information on Henrican sleeves (over and false ones) but I found the website made up for that lack.

[Desiree Mae · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great costuming book. I would however love to see if it would change anything given the recent discovery of Renaissance Period bras.