There are two parts to this review. If you just want to know about the book, read as far as the line across the page. Below the line is a personal, semi-related story.
Rating = 3.5 stars
Wisconsin, 1970s and '80s, Catholic family, nine kids, the dad owns a restaurant and runs it with exacting standards. All of the children are required to pitch in at the restaurant, especially for the lavish Sunday brunches. That's the first half of the book. In the second half, Julia jumps forward to her adult years of caring for her aging, and then dying, parents.
This is a fast-moving, easy-reading memoir. I could have read it in one day, but I was in no hurry, so it took me two days. I'm glad I read it, but it wasn't what I was hoping for. Given the title and the promotional blurbs, I expected more depth about the restaurant life, and more food talk in general. The back of the book says it's "a window into the mysteries of the restaurant business." Don't believe it.
This is not a foodie memoir. Rather, it's a lighthearted paean to Julie Pandl's funny, eccentric, indefatigable father, George. He was a big bundle of paradoxes, but his love was always reliable.
George's attitudes toward money were especially puzzling to his children. Julie provides the best example of this with a story about the family's visit to Chicago for a restaurant convention. George paid for rooms at the posh Drake Hotel, gave Julie $100.00 of "walkin'-around money," and spent $1200.00 to feed fifteen people at a nice restaurant. But when someone ate a $7.00 can of Planter's peanuts from the mini-bar in the hotel room, he went ballistic. He walked down to Walgreen, bought a can of their store-brand peanuts, and put it in the mini-bar where the Planter's had been. Ha! As if the hotel staff wouldn't notice.
Sounds crazy, right? Penny wise and pound foolish? But it makes some sense when you look at how he tried to prevent his children from developing a sense of entitlement. He loved to be generous, but he didn't want them to assume they could squander his money without his permission.
My rating is partly a reflection of my unfulfilled expectations. I'd recommend the book for those who might enjoy a sweet, quirky story of family love and loyalty, with a skosh or two of religious hocus-pocus. Just don't expect much foodie coverage.
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Julie Pandl had to start working the Sunday brunch at age twelve, and I could relate to the overwhelming feeling of being very young in a grown-up work situation. At least she had her older siblings to ease the way, whereas I was entirely alone.
I grew up in Kings Beach, California, just a mile or two from the Nevada border. Right before I turned thirteen, I took a job busing tables at the Cal-Neva Lodge. I had to lie about my age, but I was tall, and far too serious for a 12-year-old, so it was an easy sell. No one cared back then. I was a tireless wage slave who never once complained. That was good enough for them. No complaining, but I did cry sometimes. I was just too young for the stress of a casino/restaurant environment.
Once, during a particularly trying banquet, one of the kitchen guys caught me in tears. He told me there were some half-smoked joints on the roof that might help me relax on my next break. I was stunned, until I remembered that he thought I was 16 or 17. I said "Thanks," and raced back out the swinging doors to the banquet room. When I look back on my 13-year-old self, I marvel at her ability to keep her own counsel.
And no, I didn't smoke the joints on the roof. I was too chicken. I did go up there and look, though, at the end of my shift. Sure enough, that rooftop was Doobie Central. Oh the '70s, the '70s....