Marseille, once notorious for its assorted mischief, has recently experienced a cultural renaissance, establishing it as a Mediterranean capital of film, fashion, music, literature, and, most assuredly, cuisine. From the city's beloved, world-famous bouillabaisse to enticing émigré flavors to venerable street treats to classic and contemporary Provencal bistro fare, this culinary crossroads, the Paris of Provence, offers an exciting array of tempting foods that, while global in scope, have a folksy, made-in-Marseille personality. Join Daniel Young, author of The Paris Café Cookbook, as he explores the authentic flavors of France's oldest city, its great southern gateway, extending from the Marseille of antiquity, found intact in the limestone cliffs of the rocky coastline, to the Marseille of romantic intrigue, still apparent in the labyrinthine passageways of the historic Panier quarter, to its storied center, the Vieux Port. Of course there's an entire chapter on this legendary fish stew-soup, including rustic, home-style Marseille recipes adapted so they can successfully be made with North American fish -- not entirely authentic but wholeheartedly delicious. There are many other definitive fish recipes from this seafood lovers' paradise as well, including the legendary pan-fried calamari with parsley and garlic from Chez Etienne and the foolproof formula for grilling fish from the Restaurant L'Escale. In addition, there are aromatic appetizers, traditional and newfangled desserts, savory pastries, meat and chicken dishes, and hearty vegetable stews, all prepared with the building blocks of the healthful, French-Mediterranean olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, zucchini, fennel, eggplant, artichokes, olives, basil, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, almonds, figs, and honey. It's a full cookbook, offering 120 recipes and also a remarkable portrait of France's "Second City." With evocative black-and-white photographs by Marseille native Sébastien Boffredo, Made in Marseille is a lively panorama of the food, flavors, culture, and mystique of France's vital and fascinating cosmopolitan seaport.
Since food is as much of an obsession for me as reading, I’ve decided to try to combine the two, especially since there are some wonderful recent books that skillfully combine culture, history and recipes. Unfortunately, this was not one of them. I did get a sense for what distinguishes the food of Marseille from that of Provence. As a port city, it has attracted more foreign influences, especially from Italian workers and, given the proximity to North Africa, French colonials and Sephardic Jews fleeing Algeria after independence (1962.) Geography also plays a role. Seafood obviously features strongly, especially since a flat river delta lies on one side of the port, while cliffs lie on the other side. The diverse sea environment produces exceptionally diverse seafood. I enjoyed the discussion of history and culture but most of the book was just recipes, with a focus on reproducing particular restaurant recipes in an American kitchen. I would have preferred more home style cooking, My next attempt at “food reading” will focus more on culture and history and less on specific recipes.
The advantage to this cookbook is that is gives a great background on Marseille so that the introductory chapter is good to read even if you don’t cook all the dishes. Plus there’s an introduction to every recipe. Daniel Young doesn’t just focus on Provençal recipes but includes dishes from immigrant communities that make Marseille their home, including Middle Eastern and North African recipes. Prepare yourself for lots of anchovies and garlic.