Chanel portretas

by Paul Morand, Ieva Varneckaitė (Translator)

Atviras, nuoširdus, o kartu kandus Coco Chanel pasakojimas apie save pribloškia, stebina ir sužavi.

Pradėjusi vaikystės nuotrupomis didžioji mados diktatorė ryžtingai keliauja laiku, primena ir prisimena savo artimuosius, prancūzų mados ir meno korifėjus, aukštuomenės atstovus, bičiulius ir priešus.

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction, Biography, France, History, French Literature, Art

144 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1976

About the author

Paul Morand was a French diplomat, novelist, playwright and poet, considered an early Modernist.

He was a graduate of the Paris Institute of Political Studies (better known as Sciences Po). During the pre-war period, he wrote many short books which are noted for their elegance of style, erudition, narrative concision, and for the author's observation of the countries he visited combined with his middle-class views.

Morand's reputation has been marred by his stance during the Second World War, when he collaborated with the Vichy regime and was a vocal anti-Semite. When the Second World War ended, Morand served as an ambassador in Bern, but his position was revoked and he lived in exile in Switzerland.

Post-war, he was a patron of the Hussards literary movement, which opposed Existentialism. Morand went on to become a member of the Académie française; his candidature was initially rejected by Charles de Gaulle, the only instance of a President ever exercising his right to veto electees to the academy. Morand was finally elected ten years later, though he still had to forgo the official investiture).

Paul Morand was a friend of Marcel Proust and has left valuable observations about him.

Reviews

[Maria Bikaki · Rating 4 out of 5]

Γενικότερα δεν είμαι άνθρωπος της μόδας. Όταν έπρεπε να ασχοληθώ στα μικράτα μου και να μυηθώ στα μυστικά της εμένα το βασικότερο πρόβλημα μου ήταν τι ομάδα θα κατεβάσει την Κυριακή ο προπονητής του Ολυμπιακού. Αν μου έβαζαν τώρα ένα τεστ γνώσεων γύρω από τον κόσμο της μόδας, του στυλ του μακιγιάζ, υποθέτω αν σκεφτώ ότι έμαθα το eyeliner στα 22 (σαν ονομασια, όχι να το χρησιμοποιώ) θα αποτύγχανα παταγωδώς. Αν με έβαζες όμως να σου πω ονομάτισε μου 5 πράγματα που σου έρχονται στο μυαλό με το που ακούς τη λέξη μόδα τότε σίγουρα το όνομα της Κοκό Σανέλ θα ήταν από τα πρώτα που θα μου έρχονταν στο μυαλό εξού και αποφάσισα να διαβάσω το συγκεκριμένο βιβλίο. Να ναι καλά η φίλη Μαρία από το ινσταγκραμ χάρη στην οποία έμαθα την ύπαρξη του. Το γούσταρα τρελά το συγκεκριμένο βιβλίο. Διαβάζεται σχεδόν με μια ανάσα και το βρήκα από τις ενδιαφέρουσες βιογραφίες που έχω διαβάσει. Το λέω με την έννοια ότι θα περίμενε κανείς δεδομένου ότι μιλάμε για μια αυτοβιογραφία καθ’ υπαγόρευση της ιδίας ότι όπως οι περισσότερες θα ήταν ένα βιβλίο ιδιαίτερα κολακευτικό ως προς αυτήν που θα εξήρε κατά κύριο λόγο τις αρετές της. Εδώ έγκειται η μαγκιά που μόνο μια Κοκό Σανέλ θα μπορούσε να έχει να μας παρουσιάσει χωρίς φόβο και πάθος και τη σκοτεινή της πλευρά και το έκανε με ένα τόσο ωμό και καυστικό τρόπο που ώρες ώρες αναρωτιόσουν αν όντως τα υπαγόρευε εκείνη ή ήταν προϊόν λόγου κάποιου μεγάλου εχθρού της. Η Κοκό Σανέλ δε μάσησε ούτε στιγμή τα λόγια και δε δίστασε να ρίξει τις μάσκες και να μην πλασάρει τον εαυτό της ως τη μεγάλη και τρανή σχεδιάστρια μόδας που από το μηδέν δημιούργησε έναν από τους διασημότερους οίκους μόδας. Αντίθετα μέσα από τις ζωντανές περιγραφές της μας δίνει μια εικόνα του εύθραυστου και μοναχικού της χαρακτήρα. Όπως έλεγε και ο ίδιος ο Πωλ Μοράν : « η Σανέλ είναι η μεγαλύτερη μορφή της Γαλλίας. Είναι αστραφτερή παρά την ηλικία της, είναι το μόνο ενεργό ηφαίστειο της Ωβερν… η πιο ευφυής, η πιο παρορμητική, η πιο θαυμαστά ανυπόφορη γυναίκα που υπήρξε ποτέ».
“ Η ζωή είναι αναγνωρίσιμη από τις ανακολουθίες της. Ο κόσμος δεν είναι παρά ένας αγώνας και σύγχυση Αντίθετα με αυτό που έλεγε ο Σερτ, θα γινόμουν κάκιστη πεθαμένη γιατί έτσι και βρεθώ εκεί κάτω, θα στριφογυρίζω συνεχώς και άλλη σκέψη δε θα έχω παρά να επιστρέψω στη γη και να ξαναρχίσω”.

[Jeanne Mackin]

This book was so much fun to read. It's the life of Coco Chanel, as told to her friend Paul Morand, so I suspect some of it needs to be taken with a grain of salt. Like all immensely talented and creative people, Chanel was master of self-invention. Her life was full of adventure, tragedy, and great triumph, so even with the occasional hedging and self-aggrandizing, this is a fabulous read.

[Akvilė Kergytė · Rating 5 out of 5]

Chanel visada buvo mano viena iš favoričių, bet dabar tik užtvirtinau kodėl.
Stipri, galinga moteris su netradiciniu žvilgsniu į pasaulį.
Dalykus matanti kitaip nei visi mato. 🤍🖤

[SilveryTongue · Rating 4 out of 5]

En estas notas tomadas por Paul Morand en el invierno de 1947 en el hotel de Saint- Moritz, Suiza a la autentica Gabrielle Chanel y no a un estereotipo.
Una mujer absolutamente franca consigo misma y su entorno.
Decía: "He devuelto al cuerpo de las mujeres su libertad; aquellos cuerpos sudaban bajo las ropas de lujo, bajo las puntillas, los corsés, los forros, los rellenos".
Absolutamente ameno, todo lo ameno que puede resultar el sarcasmo y el desdén con el que miraba el mundo esta singular mujer.

[Mamie Austin · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was a good book, an interesting read. Though some of the translations made the storylines a little hard to understand but cool to get the idea of Coco Chanel’s life. Such a colourful character, she’s intriguing and I’ll definitely read further about her history in fashion.

[Juju · Rating 5 out of 5]

[更新] 整理後的完整閱讀心得：https://jujuchu.com/l-allure-de-chanel

這本書我是在KOBO每日99以99元購入，但我發現我好喜歡裡面的字句，會時不時想回來翻個幾篇，就有點想買實體版🥰

喜歡可可香奈兒的句子、她孤傲的視角。
喜歡她眼中看見的世界，好細緻。
喜歡聽她的見解，一邊跟她的想法對談。

很法式，頑皮可愛，又帶著美感。

這是一本收錄香奈兒的句子的書，讓我整個重新認識她。
我其實本來也不認識香奈兒，說重新，是因為她跟我原本想像的樣貌真是太不同了！
我以為的香奈兒是位優雅恬靜的氣質熟女，結果她是個頑皮與驕傲有個性有主見的女孩，桀驁不馴。
完全是不同人啊😂
就像她自己說的，她也認不得那些傳奇中的香奈兒，有多種版本的香奈兒。
『有許多次我碰過有人對我談起他們熟知的某位「香奈兒小姐」，但他們卻不知道，此刻站在他們面前的正是香奈兒本人。』

很常說「我不後悔」、「我不失望」，看到可可的倔強。

她講的話沒有一句廢話，每一句每一段都讓人想珍藏。
因為她的思想很獨特。

她每個靈感可能就只出現一兩句話或幾句對白，覺得她頭腦應該轉很快，有源源不絕的主題搶著出來。

可以讀到 20 世紀初的巴黎，俄國貴族流亡，俄國人引進聖彼得堡的皇家劇院芭蕾舞（從巴黎借鑑再回來）。
也是服飾大轉變的時代，從浮誇大蓬裙轉為俐落的現代服飾。

這本書的風格也讓我想起海明威的《流動的饗宴》，很舒服又口語，像在聽一個朋友說話。

[Shirley · Rating 3 out of 5]

Although some French expressions seem to be lost in translation, it’s clear that Coco Chanel had quite a strong character. A true French woman with strength, determination and pride which made her the fashion legend that she is now.

[Sara · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 stars

[Camille Marsella · Rating 5 out of 5]

An interesting read on Coco Chanel

[Joan]

Morand first met Coco Chanel in 1921, and in 1946 was invited to visit Chanel in St. Moritz, where he had extensive conversations with her, with a view to help write her memoirs. That project never came off, and the notes were put away and did not surface again until after Chanel's death, and were published finally in 1976.

It's pretty well known by now that Chanel created herself in more ways than one, inventing stories about her childhood and upbringing, but the reality of a young woman who broke loose from that past, lived in the era of Picasso and Sert, and changed the face of fashion in a career that spanned the world wars, can't be anything other than fascinating. No longer were clothes designed only for women whose lives were "worthless and idle"; they were for women who led busy lives and who, therefore, needed to feel comfortable in their clothes. Tossing out corsets and introducing menswear tailoring, Chanel anticipated the needs of women as the 20th-century advanced.

Because these are Chanel's own words and thoughts, this book provides an insight into the thinking of a woman who was not only a great couturier, but a woman whose influence still resonates today. I cannot help but be reminded of the Chanel exhibit I saw at the Metropolitan Museum of Art a few years ago. The exhibit juxtaposed Chanel's work with that of Karl Lagerfeld, who became head of the House of Chanel in the early '80s. The difference was stark. Nearly everything of Coco Chanel's could be worn today without hesitation, so classic are they. The designs of Lagerfeld, on the other hand, could have the date of design written on them.

The book is not, however, confined to Chanel and the world of fashion. She talks, also, about her private life, her amours, which would be a book in and of themselves.

[Sophia Sun P. · Rating 3 out of 5]

I’m very intrigued by the mind and life of Mademoiselle Chanel, so I was all too happy to discover this little gem with some of her own words, thoughts and stories as told to Paul Morand. However, I found it a bit annoying to read – choppy, like a poorly translated transcript from an overdrawn interview. And since, I am a fan of the woman and the brand, I was aware of her strong desire for recreation and redemption from her true past which lead to a long list of lies, revisions and recreations. Perhaps if Paul Morand provided his insights or anecdotes of his own it would have given Chanel more dimension.

I’m currently reading Justine Picardie’s COCO CHANEL: THE LEGEND AND THE LIFE, which does quote back to this book a lot and I’m happy I read THE ALLURE OF CHANEL first.

I’m going to suggest this for a quick read and some small insights into the life of CoCo Chanel, but if you are looking for a more concise story of Chanel’s extraordinary life I suggest picking up another biography.

[Sherry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Morand did an interview with Chanel and then transcribed the notes. It's really interesting because it's Chanel telling the story. It isn't just a story of an ambitious woman who wanted to change fashion, it was someone who didn't fit in. Sometimes she was insecure, sometimes bitter and arrogant. There's so much emotion that you really get pulled into who she is.
I think another interesting thing is the perspective. Sometimes she'll acknowledge lying, other times denounce that she lies. It makes it hard to know if this is true, especially since some of the things she says are not the same as other biographies and interviews, but not necessarily inconsistent. It all just adds more to the character of Chanel.
There's a lot of beauty in there too. She has some fabulous ideas about women and clothes. Not just how they should wear them, but her reasoning in making things beautiful. She's very insightful and to the point.

[Nick Argiriou · Rating 4 out of 5]

Αυτοβιογραφικό βιβλίο, καθ' υπαγόρευση της Σανέλ. Αρκετά άστατος ο χαρακτήρας της, η ματιά που παίρνει ο αναγνώστης συναρπαστική, ιδίως όσα έχουν να κάνουν με τις ιδέες της και όχι τόσο με τα καθαρά βιογραφικά στοιχεία. Ερεύνησα ποιο είναι το καλύτερο αυτοβιογραφικό βιβλίο για την Σανέλ (έχει υπαγορεύσει άλλα 3) και από διάφορες κριτικές, αυτό φάνηκε ότι είναι το καλύτερο. Θα επιθυμούσα και συστάσεις για ένα βιογραφικό βιβλίο (όχι αυτο-βιογραφικό), μια και οι ιδέες της είναι πράγματι αξεπέραστες.

[Jana Viktoria · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ever since I found this gem, I have read it over and over again... like once a year or so, right now I am, I go back to it. For inspiration. For motivation. For... female empowerment? I know she was not an easy character. Neither was the great Karl Lagerfeld who so greatly took over the house of Chanel. But She was a person in the world. And yes, she was a feminist. In her own ways.

I love this book about her best, as - though it is pretty much her side of the story - it is HER STORY. I love all the quotes and the pictures are divine. Get yourself a copy and give her some grace.

[Nereid · Rating 3 out of 5]

The book itself deserves 5 stars, it's interesting to read and a book that's suitable for carrying around and read when/wherever you want. I gave it 3 stars in the end because I really dislike the personality of Chanel. I love her work and extremely admire her contribution to the ballet culture- especially I am a huge fan of the Ballet Russe, but as a person who had experienced several bad experiences in the fashion industry, I can't accept a personality like her and would not worship it as a way to success.

[Catherine Corman · Rating 5 out of 5]

"You who are such an artistic person..." an elderly gentleman whom I didn't know said to me at a dinner party.

"I am not an artistic person."

"Then," he replied, squinting anxiously at my invitation card, "you are not Mlle Chanel."

"No, I am not her," I replied, to simplify things.

-Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel

[Tifenn · Rating 2 out of 5]

Chanel avait en tout cas l'air d'être un personnage pour le moins désagréable.

[Alison · Rating 4 out of 5]

Honestly, a much more fun and fascinating read than I was expecting for an impulse library loan. First of all, Chanel is clearly an unreliable narrator and this reads as her building her mythos and making the past fit into that. She brushes over anything of actual import and name drops at lightening speed. Her philosophies are as delusional as they are contradictory. Her stories as written by Paul Morand (and likely elicited by him) make you feel like a guest of hers at a dinner party. Did I learn anything about her process, creative or otherwise? No. Did I learn how she views herself and her place in the world? In spades.

[Eléonore · Rating 3 out of 5]

assez intéressant, mais le récit est décousu, sans ordre. de plus, lire ce livre nécessite une grande culture générale concernant les artistes du 20ème siècle, que je n'ai pas lol, donc on se perd facilement dans les noms. aussi, le personnage de Chanel est très différent de celui que j'imaginais, ça m'a fait un peu bizarre lors de la lecture des premières pages.
mais les derniers chapitres sont très intéressants et très actuels, on dirait que Coco était une philosophe.
et on va pas se mentir, le fait que Paul Morand soit un collabo pendant la 2nde GM me repousse un peu...

[Ixer Goti Morillo · Rating 4 out of 5]

« La belleza dura, lo bonito pasa. »

« En resumen, esto es todo lo que soy. Pues bien, también soy todo lo contrario. »

Leer este libro es como tener a Coco Chanel contándote, con su carácter ácido, crítico y revolucionario, sus experiencias, ideas, confidencias, relaciones y ambiente de la época, amores (« lo que más me ha gustado de él ha sido verlo vivir »), su forma única de ver la vida.

📿

[Micebyliz]

I'm afraid i could not follow a lot of this narrative, but some of it was very interesting and even amusing. I know it was written for a particular audience? maybe because they would know who all those people were, but i read along making assumptions until i just couldn't make sense of it anymore. More footnotes or end notes would have been helpful.
I did read a bio of her life, so that was a better background for reading this book though.

[Maria · Rating 3 out of 5]

Nicht mein Favorit. Zum Einen weil mir von Anfang an nicht klar war, ob das nun eine Mitschrift eines Interviews war, ob Paul Morand selber Hand angelegt hat UND weil die Story ihres Lebens - zumindest für mich - irgendwann unübersichtlich wurde, da zuwenig detailliert und sehr sprunghaft. Also eben so, als hätte Chanel stundenlang was aus ihrem Leben erzählt, OHNE dass jmd redigiert.

[Clara Lepke · Rating 5 out of 5]

I picked this up not knowing much about Chanel, and honestly this book was written really well. I could tell it was 100% her words, and it was interesting to read about a fashion icons perspective. Say what you want about Chanel, but this was a great book that I think was an adequate explanation of her life.

[Eva Maleviti · Rating 3 out of 5]

Πολυ ωραία μετάφραση, κατανοητή και ευχάριστη ροή με πολλές παραπομπές που βοήθησαν αρκετά. Ομως περιέχει πάρα πολλά ονόματα που χωρίς πολύ επεξήγηση για το ποιοι είναι και τι ρόλο έπαιξαν στη ζωή της Κοκο. Ξεκάθαρα μια αυτοβιογραφία όπως λέει κ το ίδιο το βιβλίο στον τίτλο, αλλά με μια μορφή αυτοτελών ιστοριών χωρίς να εστιάζει πολύ στο έργο και τη δουλειά της Κοκο.

[Yup · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book, which is told from a first person’s perspective, does not tell much about Chanel’s fashion story, but rather portrays a realistic and “not always so pretty” portrait of the lady. Coco Chanel was Kanye West of her time, not afraid to say quite literally anything if she feels like it (a lot of times controversial or without any filter).

[Sara Neuhauser · Rating 4 out of 5]

Also sehr interessant. Ich war erstmal nicht begeistert, die Nazi Kontakte von Chanel werden mit keinem Wort erwähnt aber das ist auch nicht der Sinn des Buches. Es sind Gedanken und Anekdoten die einen interessanten Einblick in Chanel’s Gedankenwelt liefern. Außerdem auf Französisch sehr poetisch geschrieben. Interessante Person, gut geschriebenes Buch.

[Alice]

Je ne sais pas quelle note donnée...
C'était une lecture vachement intéressante. La personnalité de Coco me répulse et m'impressionne en même temps. Expérience de lecture intéressante mais je suis trop loin de sa manière de pensée pour dire que j'ai bien aimé... Je me serais bien passée de ces commentaires mysogines, homophobes et racistes. Trop de trucs à dire pour que j'en ai la force.

[Wenny H · Rating 5 out of 5]

A random pick off the secondhand bookstore shelf that turned out to be pure gold. A great read for and while sipping and spilling tea.

[Yingzhe Zhao · Rating 4 out of 5]

So cynical, so worldly, so contradictory but so alive. The embodiment of black and white, the only two colors that represent everything.

[Laroy Viviane · Rating 3 out of 5]

Livre très agréable à lire, dont la narratrice est Chanel elle-même.