Yes, 400 pages of Dutch bike trivia, and, to invert Dr. Johnson, one is even more surprised to see it so well done as to see it done at all. Jordan cobbles together newspaper accounts, letters, historic documents, travel guides, and personal letters to create a light and enjoyable history of Amsterdammers and their anarchic attachment to their clunky stolid bicycles. There are celebrities: Queen Wilhelmina in exile demanding her staff get her a used cycle; Tony Blair pedaling madly ahead of other attendees at an international conference; Anne Frank wondering at the speed of riders "whizzing" by; even Audrey Hepburn smuggling newsletters during the occupation under woolen stockings.
The author punctuates all of this with occasional personal anecdotes:
"For almost an hour and a half, I followed the bike fishermen [sanitation workers who clean the canals]. While the claw operator did the actual fishing, the other crew member piloted the boat at a speed slower than a walking pace (so slow, in fact, he was able to tend to other tasks, like preparing the tea.) Along the way the number of onlookers rhythmically swelled and contracted. Whenever the fishermen had a dry spell, the crowd grew as people lingered and expectations increased. Then, when a bike was finally nabbed, the seemingly satisfied crowd would disperse. Though the claw hoisted up otehr junk -- three car tires, two scooters, a no-parking sign, a long metal pipe, a chair -- the vast majority of the time, when a catch was mae, it was a bicycle. In less than 90 minutes, I watched the fishermen land 47 bikes." (p. 331)
Most of the quoted accounts (according to the sources) are translated from Dutch, and Jordan seems to supply his own insouciant style to the speakers:
"After the announcement of Willem-Alexander and Maxima's [Zorreguieta, an Argentine] engagement, the nation took an even greater interest in the question of the woman who would be marrying the heir to the throne. And still, the question persisted: Could this foreigner cycle? When a reporter asked Maxima if she knew how to ride a bike, the soon-to-be-princess shot back, 'Yes, what do you think? I'm not from another planet. Of course I can ride a bike.' When Willem-Alexander and Maxima biked together through a Dutch town, one witness reported back to the rest of the nation: 'Maxima has a good, confident style. She doesn't look like a hesitating refugee who has mounted a Dutch bike for the first time as part of the integration process. One had on the handlebars, the other one waving. Easy peasy.'" (p. 379)