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Grand Delusions: A Short Biography Of Kolkata

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Indrajit Hazra’s exploration of Kolkata—once Calcutta, headquarters of the Raj—goes far beyond the expected stories about a metropolis that has been mined for its clichés by a long line of writers, artists, grumblers and tellers of tall tales. He takes us to the eccentric paras (neighbourhoods) and clubs of the north and the south; past buildings crumbling silently into spectacular ruins; deep inside Park Street’s iconic restaurants and watering holes; through roads choked by political rallies; to rundown cinema halls haunted by lonely men; and into the lairs of soothsayers and tantric love gurus.

Part personal essay, part documentary, part cultural history, Grand Delusions is utterly distinctive and full of surprises. Both intimate and provocative, it shines new light on a great and fascinating city.

‘As someone whose formative years were spent in Kolkata, I read Indrajit Hazra’s book with keen interest—and delight. He conveys his deep knowledge of Kolkata’s history and culture with style and wit, deftly capturing the city’s glories and disenchantments, its ironies and its anxieties. The personal and the political are beautifully blended. I thought I knew Kolkata very well—now, after reading Hazra, I shall visit it afresh with new eyes, and greater understanding.’— Ramachandra Guha

156 pages, Hardcover

First published December 1, 2013

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Indrajit Hazra

11 books6 followers

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 41 reviews
Profile Image for Pallavi Kamat.
212 reviews77 followers
April 12, 2021
I happened to pick up this book purely by accident while browsing one of the online websites. And I am glad I did. Kolkata is one of those old, charming cities which its inhabitants seem to adore completely, despite the traffic & the pollution. To me, Kolkata conjures up images of the Hooghly bridge and Durga Puja, of the underground metro and the tram, of sandesh and puchkas.

Indrajit Hazra has captured all this and more beautifully in his ode to the lovely city. Hazra discusses the intricacies of the geographical spread of the city (North vs. South), the political scenario – past & present [including the Naxalbari movement], the movie industry, the bookstores & eateries on Park Street and the different communities co-existing peacefully in the city [prominently, the Marwaris who migrated from Rajasthan to Bengal in the 17th century to trade in cotton, opium, salt, cloth and indigo].

Hazra has lived away from Kolkata for the last 15 years. He says he is one of the best people to write a book on the city because “After all, you don't see the Mona Lisa from inside the frame; you have to stand in front of it.”

There are quite a few nuggets of information liberally spread out across the book. For instance, I learnt that the Calcutta Club on Lower Circular Road changed its rules to allow women members only in 2007.

The book is an easy read and, at 145 pages, a quick one. The author's writing style is free-flowing & informal. Since the book speaks about different topics, it is not necessary for one to read it from start to end. Read the book for a different take on the city – a take of an insider, who's now an outsider. And the cover of the book (by Turmeric Design) is stunning - really captures the essence of the city.

On my first, and so far only, visit to Kolkata in March-2010, I took time out to visit the Victoria Memorial, the Howrah Bridge and Flury's – all of which find mention in the book. I also took a tram ride and visited the oldest banyan tree in the world. Though the book may not be intended as one but you can also use it as a travel guide, bookmarking sights & activities that you may wish to tick off when you visit the city.

This review first appeared on my blog www.pallosworld.blogspot.com.
Profile Image for Athena.
132 reviews18 followers
March 28, 2014
I have read countless articles and books on my city, both by renowned authors as well as friends and acquaintances. Respect is due to them to be able to pen down words that try to capture Kolkata. I am sure I will never be able to pay homage to the place that has been home for over two decades. I will just never find the apt words, hence I shall never try.

Hazra's short biography is just that, short. I can fully understand the trepidation he must have felt, just trying to fit in decades and centuries into 150 odd pages. I identify with his vision of Kolkata. His sense of nostalgia is like mine...beloved but from a distance; fiercely possessive but will never commit. Living away from the city, I know how Hazra must feel.I am not one of those who will sing Kolkata's praises and put her on the highest pedestal. She is as human and flawed as I am. And I love her to bits. Hazra walks you through the city without rose-tinted glasses and it feels so real. Though he is perhaps a little more inclined to North Kolkata specifically. But that is forgiven....one's 'para' definitely will feature in the limelight. It is inevitable. And of course, I am yet to understand Hazra's political stand, but that is hardly relevant. Special gratitude to Hazra for mentioning Skyroom...long forgotten but awakened in me memories that are priceless.

I have felt, smelt and seen my beloved city in these pages and I am grateful. Perhaps now I can go back to forgetting her...just so the next time we meet, she will again bedazzle me.

"It's a fun that no other city will fathom. It's a happiness that those who once lived in Kolkata are almost relieved to forget."
Profile Image for Love Among the Bookshelves.
49 reviews6 followers
August 20, 2020
"Pujo is much more than just a Bengali Hindu religious festival .It is a mass- sanctioned eating , drinking , hanging out , shouting , crowding frenzy" - This line from this book , sold the book to me in all possible ways .

I believe writing about Calcutta is a gruelling task in itself , because more than a city , it is a sensibility and an emotion . It is most demanding for an author to deliver quality writing when it comes to Calcutta . Indrajit Hazra in 'Grand Delusions' is a complete winner for me .

The book arrests all possible aspects of Calcutta's sensibilities starting from it's rich history , colonial background , club culture ( para culture 😂 ) , beauty in the rumbling buildings and filthy streets , jazzy restaurants in Park street , political rallies , north-south tussle , Marwari occupation , Durga Pujo , Mishti ( but obvious! ) and Cinema! I can go on and on and on .

This book perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Kolkata in it's short length of 139 pages . Also , Indrajit happens to be an alumnus of our school - which makes me really proud for he has achieved a great feat with this one . This one's recommended to all of you , who want to get a taste of Calcutta - the cultural capital of India
Profile Image for Rishika.
17 reviews115 followers
September 13, 2021
This doesn't quite read like a biography but is more like the author reminiscing his days in Calcutta interspersed with bits of history regarding Calcutta's traditions. This book is imbued with the author's nostalgia for this city where he has grown up. In certain portions, it seems more like an eulogy for Calcutta's days of glory. The author has tried to cover the history of the city from multiple angles: geography (North-South, salt lake), political (1960s-2000s), culture (Durga Pujo, movies) and food.

I approached this book as an outsider with a curiosity to know more about Kolkata. It did help me understand the political and cultural history of Kolkata. But it was slightly different from my expectations. Probably, a person raised here may relate more to this book.
Profile Image for Prachi.
156 reviews
June 29, 2022
thode generalizations mast the while others were annoying.
Profile Image for Divakar KS.
3 reviews4 followers
April 3, 2017
I got this book ahead of my trip to Kolkata and this really has opened up my thought process about the city that I have been asking lot of questions to my friends from Kolkata over the past week. As it says, this is a 'short' biography of the city and thus it gives a gist about the city's past and present. The writer covers the political history of the place more than anything else. Would have loved more detail on the places he has written about but may be that wasn't the intent behind the short biography. A good read, nevertheless!
410 reviews194 followers
February 18, 2020
Disappointed with this one, even if only because I am a fan of this series and some of them are so good. The writing veers from passable to sometimes just bad.

Which is not to say that it doesn't have value or is unreadable; it just thinks of itself a little more than it should.
Profile Image for Nidhi.
67 reviews4 followers
March 6, 2018
writing about Calcutta is always fraught with clichés and an overriding sense of loss and remembrance of things past but this book is refreshingly devoid of those trappings, bringing the city alive to those of us whose relationship with it has been, for better or for worse, mediated through shared memories.
Profile Image for Preeti.
18 reviews15 followers
October 8, 2014
What I enjoyed the most about this book was the constant crisscrossing of timelines- past and present, and narrated so seamlessly. The author has picked up the other idiosyncracies of my city like the sun revolves around the earth graffiti, or the plethora of astrologers as well as the interesting parallel between the communists and Mother Teresa. A most enjoyable read!
46 reviews
April 18, 2018
I read Indrajit Hazra’s “Grand Delusions” few days ago. Indrajit Hazra is a journalist and columnist and I read his exceedingly well-written columns regularly. He also happens to be my sister’s friend’s (also our neighbor) cousin and we would gawk at him when he would visit very occasionally as if he was a rockstar, and he looked the part being tall, dark and handsome and cultivating a long, shaggy hairstyle at that time (later 90s). However, I digress. This book is a book about Calcutta (old name)or Kolkata (new name). It lovingly explains everything that is the essence of Calcutta: architecture, food, politics, sports and most importantly Durga Puja (the most important festival of Bengal, similar to Rio’s carnival, only more conservative and ritualistic). The author explains very aptly how the degeneration of Calcutta came about, thanks to the long ruling communist state government and how the current state government came into power. The book also succinctly explains how Calcutta came to exist and beautifully details North Calcutta and how it is different from the pretentious babu log (masters) South Calcutta. The author is able to be objective about this beautiful, crumbling city we have made our home, because it is no longer his home. From a distance, things appear clearer and not being from South Calcutta, he is not obligated to make googly eyes at anyone in the city. I am very glad I bought a hard cover version of this book, because I plan to read it over and over again.
I thoroughly recommend this book to people who want to understand and decode Calcutta or who like to know more about other cities and countries. I would make it mandatory reading for all diplomats posted to Calcutta or for people visiting Kolkata for short assignments.
Friends and family, hit me up for copies!

P.S. isn’t the cover mind blowingly beautiful?
Profile Image for Anandarupa Chakrabarti.
Author 4 books12 followers
January 19, 2021
“There is no east or west in Kolkata. There is just north and south. Just Uttor Kolkata and Dokkhin Kolkata”.
Calcutta, for all its antique and grandeur shall be always praised till the end of time. The rare familiarity in the cultures of Marwari and Bangalee is a heart-to –heart emotion, almost like blood flowing through our veins. Calcutta demands to stay big and unforgettable for the existence of literature, culture, colonial occupancies, its vibrant Para (neighborhood) and unending banters of its residence.
Indrajit Hazra, through his sensibility of the city and sensational writing makes me go back to the city and explore the nook and canny of India’s cultural capital. The book here, retells its readers the evolution of Calcutta to Kolkata bringing in place the right way of presenting its rich history, rule  by the British Raj, the fancy possessions  from the nocturnal Park Street, the sharp edged politics , the happy chaos during Durga Pujo, the drastic yet flamboyant difference in  Uttor and Dokkhin Kolkata. The book highlights the architectural and the visual (screen shows) pride that have stayed with the people and would remain engaged in their hearts forever.
This book has a new experience of discoveries and minimal paths revisited through these 115(kindle) pages.  A part of India that needs no introduction yet fitted fantastically in a few reflecting words.  To all the readers, who wish to visit and experience a new culture but can’t due to pandemic, read this book and I’m sure you would be fascinated and well informed about my city before anyone else.  
Profile Image for Dhruv Bhandula.
66 reviews33 followers
October 8, 2017
Of all the books I have read from the City Series by Aleph Company, this has to be the best of the lot so far. Mind you I have still not read the books on Bangalore, Chennai and Patna so this can be a premature declaration on my part. But considering the cities I have spent a considerable amount of time in (others being Delhi and Mumbai), I loved the description of Kolkata the most. The author has sticked to the vibrant culture of the city and has not commented too much on the politics of the city (barred from couple of incidents like Partition riots and Naxalbari incidents). That's what makes this book more enjoyable than the ones on Delhi and Mumbai which had too much politics for my liking.
Kolkata is a city where I spent the most amazing 2 years (or rather a year and a half) of my life. However, I missed out so much of the city busy with the hub-dub of studies, projects, job interviews etc etc. So this book reminds me of so much that the city has to offer which I had missed during my time there and also acts like a call from the city to me to give it another visit and complete what I missed out the last time. Hopefully, I would get a chance to see this wonderful city and visit my alma mater again in the nearby future. Thankfully, this time I will have a nice guide with me telling me which places to lookout there.
Profile Image for Natasha.
Author 3 books88 followers
October 7, 2020
I related to book at many layers. Like the author, I spent my formative years in the city, and she played a major role in making me who I am. Yet, unlike the author, I haven't returned to the city except two very brief trips since leaving so I no longer relate to who she has now become. But, there is another city that I return to a couple of times a year, which I could relate to when he describes how he looks for things that do not change. For me the book was as much an exploration of memories and hireath as it was about the city itself.
"It's a world I detest and love, reject and feed off, am shamed by and proud of, attack and defend at the same time. To love Kolkata indiscriminately is to love Kolkata falsely. The power of Kolkata derives from the fact that it can be loved and liked for reasons that no other town can be loved and liked for.
There's much more happiness in being a small guy. And its' much more fun.
It's a fun that no other city will fathom. It's a happiness that those who once lived in Kolkata are almost relieved to forget."
Profile Image for Malvika.
83 reviews63 followers
January 22, 2018
My love for Kolkata is borderline obsessive, so one can guess how excited I was to read Grand Delusions. Indrajit Hazra touches upon several aspects of the city - from politics to Park Street, cinema to cuisine. While he does state that his is a biased take on the city he was born and raised in, he doesn't do sufficient justice to the City of Joy even with his biased viewpoint.

What do I wish the book talked more about? Its residents. More than Kolkata, I am fascinated with the people that make this city one of the most fascinating cities in India, if not the world. With his easygoing, well-researched writing style, and also one that relies on imagery, Indrajit Hazra could have certainly brought more to the book.

Nonetheless, it was an interesting read, one that is enough for me to book my tickets to Kolkata and experience the city like I've been doing in my dreams forever.
Profile Image for Prithu.
71 reviews14 followers
August 26, 2019
The subtitle of this book reads "a short biography of Kolkata". Hence, we know what to expect. Though the book can't claim that it delivers exactly what it promises. Instead, it goes on to provide a few quirky sketches, coloured with the personal experience of its author.

The book showcases two quotations on the very first page under its cover. one is an extract from 'Jam', a poem by renowned Bengali poet Sankha Ghosh and the other one, a Latin title of a painting by Clovis Trouille on which the title of the musical 'Oh! Calcutta' is based. The second quote notoriously translates as "What an arse you have!"

There are 13 chapters altogether, excluding the notes and the acknowledgement. Each section throws some light on certain aspect of the city. For those readers who enjoy light hearted paced reads, this book is a treat.
20 reviews
May 2, 2025
Calcutta or kolkata, however you like call it, has been a city of great fascination for India and the world to unpack. Grand delusions by Indrajit Hazfa bas written a love letter for his beloved ancestral city of calcutta. his longing to be in calcutta is perfectly depicted by his descriptions of long lost calcutta spots. Calcutta created from three villages by the British to form a metropolitan and capital of the raj. Calcutta is as modern as it's gets and stays with it's old school charm. Hazra gives vivid descriptions of iconic descriptions ranging from Chhaya cinema to eau chow to dilkhusha cabin. Hazra gives glimpses of the world famous Durgo Pujo or simply Pujo, the time when the city give a new radiating energy. The rise and fall of bengalee bhadralok culture also finds mention in the book.
Profile Image for V.K. Dadhich.
Author 1 book1 follower
November 23, 2019
What made me buy the book - the tag line of the book

What I liked about the book - the strange sense of familiarity with which the writer tours us around Kolkata, making us feel like we are revisiting our home town, when in fact, it is a town as alien as Area 51

Who will I recommend the book to - any non Bengali who'd like to know this heritage city, and to every Bengali who'd like to revive the mired memories

What did the book teach me - revisiting our roots isn't that bland as I thought

#OBAAT One Book At A Time
10 reviews
September 10, 2019
Calcutta, explained by an emigre


Nicely written, giving an overview of the "City of Joy" from a different perspective. Covering various issues e.g. Howrah Bridge, Durga Pooja etc. which needs attention from different stratas of society. A vocabulary builder indeed. Will wait for another of your non- fiction. Best Wishes Indrajit Hazra.
19 reviews
June 7, 2022
One of the best accounts on Kolkata

This is truly a biography of Kolkata written in a way to appeal the young generation. It has touched upon all relevant info in bits to drive the reader for further reads in the areas of her/his interest . Recommended read for anyone who is interested for a gist and a satire on this colonial city.
Profile Image for Aditya As.
16 reviews
April 19, 2021
I enjoyed the book. At times I felt myself walking along with the author. And I did open my palm to figure out the bolt size on Howarh Bridge. Some of his points lay across most metro cities and are still prelevant today, like the English and State medium divide.
Profile Image for Abhilash Pal.
5 reviews2 followers
October 24, 2024
Not a bad starter in getting to know Kolkata. I felt a Srijit-esque lack of humility while matters of the city were being discussed. However, it's seldom absent in probashis. For a better biographical experience I suggest the golpo holeo sotyi youtube channel and its book recommendations.
Profile Image for Debdutta.
24 reviews5 followers
November 10, 2025
I have always enjoyed Hazra’s perspectives on culture and history. His writings for the HT column used to be nutty and original. On similar lines, this quick read that interweaves his personal experiences growing up in Calcutta with the city’s history delivers what it promises.
1 review
December 12, 2025
The book is recommended as a highly enjoyable, personal, and provocative cultural essay that beautifully blends the political and the intimate. It’s a must-read for anyone who loves Kolkata and is willing to accept a biased, colored, and nostalgic story rather than a traditional, objective history.
6 reviews
January 19, 2019
Exceptionally truthful

To write about the way Indrajit has written about ones hometown where he has captured not only the beauty but also the ugliness is remarkable.
Profile Image for Mihr Chand.
83 reviews2 followers
May 20, 2019
Would have given it 5 stars, if the book weren’t obsessed with being anti-communist.
Profile Image for Sagnik Nag.
97 reviews
January 28, 2023
Anyone with linkage to Kolkata would love it for sure! Triggered lot of fond memories.
Profile Image for Eileen.
124 reviews
September 27, 2016
I'm glad I read this book. It was slow going in many places, due to my lack of contextual understanding (culture, political figures, etc), and certain working vocabulary which would make it smoother.

But I think it was worth the journey. Well-written and definitely a detailed view into a city and the complicated relationship that can only be had by someone who has loved it, hated it, left it, and returned to it as a visitor.

I think I'll need to read this again at least once to get the depth of it.
Profile Image for Kajari .
8 reviews19 followers
November 16, 2025
This is the first time I am reading Indrajit Hazra, and I was genuinely expecting it to be on par with Kushanava Choudhury's The Epic City, but the book seemed more like a draft. The content is disjointed, and it seemed like it was finished in a rush. It does cover the basics - such as politics, partition, Durga Pujo - BUT the criticism is unrelenting and at times sounds forced. Some of the passages are mildly funny, but the rest of it seems like it was written just for the sake of writing. The book is called Grand Delusions and is specifically aimed at dispelling every iota of "delusional humboro-bhab" that the afternoon siesta-loving Bengali has a death grip on. The writer doesn't catch a break, and he won't let you either.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 41 reviews

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