Canoeing the Congo: The First Source-to-Sea Descent of the Congo River

by Phil Harwood

At 2,922 miles, the Congo is the eighth longest river and the deepest in the world, with a flow rate second only to the Amazon. Ex-Marine Phil Harwood embarked on an epic solo journey from the river’s true source in the highlands of Zambia through war-torn Central Africa. With no outside help whatsoever he faced swamps, waterfalls, man-eating crocodiles, hippos, aggressive snakes and spiders’ webs the size of houses. He collapsed from malaria, and was arrested, intimidated and chased. On one stretch, known as ‘The Abattoir’ for its history of cannibalism and reputation for criminal activity, the four brothers he hired as bodyguards were asked by locals, ‘Why haven’t you cut his throat yet?’ But he also received tremendous hospitality from proud and brave people long forgotten by the Western world, especially friendly riverside fishermen who helped wherever they could on Phil’s exhilarating and terrifying five-month journey.

Genres: Travel, Africa, Adventure, Nonfiction, Audiobook, Nautical, Nature

297 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2012

Reviews

[Petra X · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a story about me and extra-strong laxatives and my victim inspired by an incident in the book. As no real review occurred to me, it's yet another anecdote in it's place... But first, the inspiration...

The author is relating a "people skills" story. He was held up at the Liberian border by an angry man and his gang with a gun saying he was taking his vehicle. After much sob stories about needing to take his friend to hospital for malaria, being robbed the previous day so not having any money and other excuses, the author finally got the car thief to compromise on some pills that would make him "very strong" ;-) They were laxatives.

It reminded me of when I did that. I was crewing for a guy, Jim, on his 50' motor yacht and he was so cheap that he didn't even have charts. One night he gave me a tablemat printed with a chart and told me to wake him next morning in St Barts as it was about a 9 hour sail. Another time we were in St. Kitt's and met a friend of mine who ran a radio station that had given us a welcome party two nights previously on another island, so we all went out to dinner. He said to her that he hoped she didn't think he was made of money and wouldn't order the lobster and told me I could have a burger. He ordered lobster. (He was filthy rich, owned a marina on the Great Lakes). So I went out clubbing and met an old bf and decided to have some fun.

The next night on the boat, I cooked boeuf bourguignon for dinner with several industrial-strength, prescription-only laxatives in it. Left it for him and jumped on the back of my friend's motorbike and left for two days! When I got back Jim was furious and the boat was very stinky. So he put me off the boat.

I walked down the dock with my roll bag and met the only policeman I knew in the Caribbean, from Grenada. Jefferson Liburd. He said that it was illegal to put me off without a ticket home, and so negotiated me back on the boat. Jim couldn't sail it by himself anyway. Things went from bad to worse after that...

(What the whole thing had been about was Jim thought the $50 a day included sex as well as sailing and also I beat him at Trivia, every time. I don't know which pissed him off most).

Previously, on the island with the radio station with my friend, I had a guy I had nearly had a Big Thing with fly out to join us. We have never even kissed He has chronic herpes and although we discussed plans for our future, he never had a day without it. He moved to Toronto to be near a hospital in the end, and I haven't seen him since. but shared a cabin. Jim used to come and part the saloon curtains so he could spy on us... Jim was a trip, and not a good one.
__________

1 Aug 2022 That was kind of an abrupt ending. So years later, here is what happened next. When we reached the island, I had radioed my bf (who became my husband) and he came out in his boat. Jim wanted to show him his best side, so he retrieved the bottles of rum from the bilges where he'd hidden them, unscrewed the cabin sole to get the peanuts, and dug deep in the freezer for the bars of chocolate. It was hilarious.

Years later, Jefferson Liburd came to my island as a policeman. I knew him from Grenada, after an attempted rape, I knew him from St Kitts after Jim put me off for dosing him with laxatives, and now here he was. He died, young, a few years later from a heart attack. RIP Jefferson, you were a good friend, always there for me.

[Jessaka · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a wonderful, buf horrifying story. If you love the way Levison Wood writes, you would love this book.

Harwood decided to canoe on the Congo river all the way to
the Atlantic ocean, something like 2000 miles. He began his solo trip in Zambia and headed north for Congo. People who knew him Felt that he was crazy or just masochistic. Well, I kind of agree, But, as he said often, he loves the adrenaline rush of danger.

The people of Zambia we're friendly, but the crocodiles weren't, and it seemed like they were more crocodiles and people. I could see better ways to spend my time, like just reading about it. Crocodiles were not talked about by the time he reached the Congo, But the people were friendly except for immigration
Well, not all of the people were friendly. The people were starving and continually asked him for money, and some of these people could get very violent. I will stop here because I do not wish to think too deeply about the condition that people all over the world face.

[Chris Steeden · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is certainly not a Michael Palin book where all the author has to do is make sure he packs his bag and goes where he is told with full protection and just write a few notes each day while sipping a cocktail (although I do like Palin's books).

This is a true solo adventure and what an unbelievable experience. Not something I would do but great to read about. What I thought was lacking from this book, and this is where Palin is better, was more in-depth historical / modern-day detail of the different areas that the author visited. What you do get is a good visual of the characters that he meets on his route, both good and bad.

I read this in a few sittings at home on the sofa. Safe and happy that Phil Harwood did the hard work.

I really must get round to reading 'Heart of Darkness'.

[David Canford · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you like adventure stories you will enjoy this account of a former soldier canoeing down the River Congo. I’m amazed he survived. His attitude of facing down aggressors is not one I’m sure I’d be brave enough to try.
Whilst to read about his journey is exciting, it is sad to read about how the country and its people have suffered, first under brutal colonialism and then, following independence under corrupt dictators supported by the USA and Europe. With its vast mineral resources, Congo should be a wealthy country but its people live in appalling conditions whilst multinational mining companies and corrupt politicians plunder their resources.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

I don't want to denigrate the author's adventure, as he accomplished a miracle in coming out of this trip unscathed. Moreover, I never cease to admire that he was friendly and generous to those who were nice to him, and stood up to bullies trying to shake him down; at one point in the Congo, when an immigration official was holding his passport for ransom demanding a large sum of money, the author came up with a brilliant solution: basically, he used his satellite phone to call the immigration guy who was holding the passport, pretending to be the British ambassador to the Congo, reporting that the prime minister's office had contacted him to see why the passport hadn't been released yet.


However, I found that reading the book straight through left me exhausted long before the trip ended. For readers who are considering tackling this title, I would very strongly urge pausing the book roughly halfway through (Zambia vs. Congo). Audio narrator does a terrific job presenting the author as a likable guy, probably more so than from reading a print copy.

[Cav · Rating 5 out of 5]

"I was alone in the middle of deepest, darkest Congo. Worse still, I was being chased by eight angry tribesmen in two dugout canoes – and they were gaining on me..."

I'm a huge fan of books about incredible real-life sagas, so I put this one on my list as soon as I came across it. It was a super-interesting read, and a crazy story; in general.

Author Phil Harwood has worked all over the world as a Royal Marine Commando, expedition leader and outdoor instructor. He is qualified as a mountain leader, canoe and kayak coach, rock-climbing instructor and wilderness emergency medical technician.

Phil Harwood:


The book opens with a lively intro, where Harwood drops the quote above. He writes with a great style that is both engaging and effective. This one should have no trouble holding the finicky reader's attention [well, at least this finicky reader's attention LOL]. There were also many pictures included at the end of the book, which is always a nice touch, and helps bring some context to the story.

As the book's title implies, the writing covers a (mostly) solo trip the author made canoeing the length of the Congo River. Such a risky and dangerous trip fortunately made for some great writing.
The author continues the quote from the start of this review:

"...'Mazungu… Mazunguuu,' came the bloodcurdling screams. 'Give us money.' They were all standing up and paddling like men possessed. The nearest guy had a huge machete attached to his waist. 'Jesus Christ. What the hell am I doing here?' I muttered to myself.
For the past half hour I had been paddling as though my life depended on it. As though? It did depend on it. I was praying they would give up the chase, but it was no good. Despite my best efforts they were catching up.
All of my senses were strained to the limit. I couldn't have felt more alive and in the moment – the rhythmic sound of my paddle pulling hard and clean in the water, the heavy, pungent aroma of steaming vegetation, the feel of my heart pounding, and the sweat dripping off my nose. The fear was rapidly growing within me, demanding an answer to the age-old question: fight or flight?"

He drops this quote, speaking to the dangers of the voyage:

"During my journey I'd come to understand that the amount of trouble I encountered was directly proportional to the size of the village. Give me a humble, hardworking fishing village any day. In the smaller places, people were generally far too busy trying to feed their kids to worry about the bald white bloke and his fat wallet. But the bigger the place became, the more chance there was of encountering madmen hell-bent on making my life a misery. Kasongo was a very big village.
Not long before, when the dawn mist still lingered over the water, I had tried to sneak past without attracting attention, hugging the opposite bank.
But just when I thought I'd got by safely, I came upon a group of men lingering by the riverside just ahead of me. It quickly became apparent that they weren't in the mood to make a new friend. They burst into life with a suddenness and a ferocious intensity that made me wince.
I'd known I was in trouble almost immediately. It wasn't unusual for people to shout for money from the banks, but my gut instinct, which I had come to love and cherish, told me that this time it was different. These guys were more hostile and aggressive than normal, and they'd made no bones about what they were after. They wanted my money or my life. I tried to introduce myself in my usual polite way but they didn't give me a chance.
They just ran into the water and tried to grab my canoe, some of their faces screwed up in pure hatred. It was time to put the power on and get the hell out of there.
Within seconds, I heard the cry 'Mazungu' – 'white man' – screamed and repeated along both banks at an alarming rate. It was disconcerting, to say the least. I felt like a wandering wolf that had inadvertently strolled into a farming community and was being hunted down. I had to go faster..."

In this quote, he talks about the daunting nature of the Congo River:

"At 4,703 km long, the Congo is Africa's second longest river after the Nile and the eighth longest on the planet. Its flow rate is the second most powerful in the world after the Amazon, discharging 42,000 m of water per second. It's also the deepest river in the world, reaching depths of 230 m. It rises in the highlands of North Eastern Zambia at an elevation of 1,756 m and at a distance of about 692 km from the Indian Ocean. Its course then takes the form of a gigantic counter clockwise arc, with numerous rapids and waterfalls along the way. It flows through savannah, swamp and dense tropical rainforest, crossing the equator twice before finally draining into the Atlantic Ocean at the village of Banana. Such is the force of the river at the coast that fresh water can be found as far as 200 km out to sea."

The writing in the book proper is pretty wild. There are many crazy stories recounted here. Some people (myself included) might think that the very idea of this trip is completely absurd. Sure enough, in a predictible fashion, the author gets into virtually countless encounters that could have seen him very badly injured, or even losing his life. He was constantly harassed and intimidated by the locals for money. His passport was taken from him various times by numerous people with nefarious intentions, and many locals wondered why he had not had his throat slit already.


He says this of the dangers he faced:

"The moral of these stories for me is this: if in doubt when facing unsavoury characters, stick your hand out and smile, but look strong, stare unblinkingly deep into their eyes and give them the mother of all handshakes. This, combined with a 'mess with me and I'll rip your head off' look in your eyes, should give you a fighting chance. Eventually somebody's got to back down – and hopefully it won't have to be you..."

Ummm, no thanks. That's a hard pass from me LOL. Not for all the tea in China, and even armed to the teeth would I place myself in such reckless danger. As a side note, the author went unarmed, except for a machete. At one point, he mentions that his guide had a homemade improvised shotgun (which actually did not work). He mentions that he looked into buying a pistol, but that didn't work out. Jesus, man...

I think I'd prefer to just read the story in the book afterwards. I'll refrain from adding any more of my own commentary about the prudence of such a voyage; since it is not germane to the book's review. Fortunately, however, it did make for a great story.

***********************

Canoeing the Congo was a pretty wild story. If you are a fan of the genre like I am, it should be on your list.
5 stars.

[thereadytraveller · Rating 3 out of 5]

An amazing five-month adventure story detailing the first ever canoeing descent of the Congo River from its true source of the Chambeshi in northeast Zambia to the Atlantic Ocean.

Harwood provides a good amount of background history to the Democratic Republic of Congo and its many travails. Where this book really stands out, is the well research information on the Congo River itself. A true adventurer and a journey for which Harwood was awarded the Mike Jones Canoeing Award, Harwood is a real-life Bear Grylls without the make-up.

Of most interest to someone interested in the underlying mechanics of the journey (and of course the Congo River), Harwood has also produced a documentary of the trip which is available for purchase on his website at www.canoeingthecongo.com.

[Paul · Rating 5 out of 5]

Harwood sets out to canoe the entire length of the Congo river, from the attributed source to the sea. It is an unbelievably tough journey, with 10 hours paddling in his canoe each and every day. The route is through one of the most desperate parts of the world, with the fall out from years of poverty and civil war.

He meets the entire spectrum of humanity along the way, from nasty pieces of work, real death threats, and people who could not be any friendlier and more generous, and who are embarrassed about their fellow countrymen's behaviour. Through all the trial he survives and learns as much about himself, as Africa.

A book that those who have read Blood River will like.

[Tassos · Rating 3 out of 5]

A pretty good read, with an interesting concept and a lot of food for thought, specially to those travelling to countries such as D.R. Congo.

I've been there myself once, but in a completely different environment and only for a short period, but it was very useful to read some impressions about parts of the country other than the capital, Khinsasa.

The main lacking point of the book was the writing style, which was pretty light but well structured never the less. But I know that the guy isn't a writer, so still big thumbs for managing to write such a book, and even bigger for canoeing the whole Congo river

[Jemma · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow..
A spectacular account of an incredible journey, well written with a suprising amount of humour!! Wonderfully moving; meeting locals who made him feel guilty about having a tarpaulin to sleep under.. Some great photography too as well as hand drawn maps of each leg of the journey, along with plenty of references to Bilbo Baggins, this real life adventure book is a fantastic read.
I've seen it's available off his own website www.canoeingthecongo.com, support the indie writers!

[Sophie Karolczak · Rating 5 out of 5]

Usually when reading outdoors books I can't stop thinking "I really want to go do this wow!!". However, this book made me say "Wow, I really do NOT want to go do this". Still a really amazing adventure and I loved the stories of all the people he met along the way!

[Damien · Rating 5 out of 5]

An amazing book. He describes very well the different characters he meets and the country he travels through. A great story of perseverance.

[Riley LePrell · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting story. I followed the journey on Google Maps and researched each place he mentioned, which made it fun. Always fun to learn about places you’d never think about.

[Fabio Cavaler · Rating 4 out of 5]

Canoeing the Congo makes a fascinating read, immersing the reader into a challenge that very few people have experienced first hand and have left an account of: navigating Earth's ninth longest river from its source to its mouth. Phil Harwood's account takes us to a country where the vast majority of the population lives in abject poverty, where corruption is rife and where western people venture almost exclusively as NGOs or UN operators. Interactions with customs officers, police and military personnel almost invariably lead to troubles and the author soon learns that only by being self-confident and determined, one can get away with it. On the other hand, Harwood doesn't fail to notice the friendliness and resourcefulness of the humble people living along the river banks. These human connections are unarguably the most poignant and vivid part of this tale.
Phil Harwood is not a journalist; he is a former army serviceman and outdoor instructor. As much as this has prepared him to handle such a perilous journey, it hasn't offered him the gift of storytelling. Don't get me wrong on this: his account is thoroughly enjoyable and duly allows oneself to immerse in it. However, it has not the same flow or tone that could have resulted from the pen of, say, Tony Horwitz or Paul Theroux.
Travel accounts such as Canoeing the Congo are, in my opinion, just one step away from being fully-fledged adventure novels: the events depicted seem (and, indeed, are) so remote, often so hard to grasp by the reader, that he hardly realizes they are not a figment of the author's imagination. And that's what makes them a remarkable read.

[Jeannette · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'd love to see the Congo River; would love to navigate it some day. But I know with absolute certainty I'll never canoe the length of it, as Phil Harwood did. Reading his account at least gave me a glimpse into what it would be like (and why I'd never make the cut). Harwood's writing is good enough to have engaged me thoroughly. Several times his adventures made me laugh out loud. Most thought-provoking were his reflections on what he needed to do when confronted by extortion attempts, threatened with violence, and subjected to attempts at terrorizing him. I learned from his example and was inspired by his conviction that adversity builds character.

When Henry Morton Stanley tried to follow the course of the river 140 years ago and only partially succeeded, his accomplishment made him rich and famous. It seems so unfair that almost no one knows what Harwood did -- though he did it without harming anyone (let alone killing hundreds, as Stanley did) and with grace and humor. I think I'll have to buy the DVD too!

[Fayette · Rating 3 out of 5]

I am married to someone who grew up in DRC and have spent time there myself. I will echo what pretty much everyone else already has told PH before during and after his journey--canoeing the Congo river is INSANE! Without a doubt he has skill, but he also is very, very lucky to have survived. There are just too, too many factors that could have gone a different direction.

Having said that, it was interesting for me to read this account, being familiar with the people, customs, and terrain. It might be a little slow for people not interested in that region simply because there's a lot of writing about paddling, being chased by customs officials, and scuffles related to bogus fees and fines (which is a real struggle!)

[David · Rating 2 out of 5]

I really wanted to read this story, but the author is so desperate to be seen as a badass (he'll be sure to mention all the hardcore stuff he's done, and then act like it's no big deal - but even though it's no big deal, he's going to make sure you know about it. So that neediness for approval got on my nerves. Then what really pissed me off is the gimmick of starting the first chapter in the action, ending it on a cliffhanger, and then forcing the reader to wade through chapters of boring backstory if they want to find out how the incident ended. I mean, what a way to let your reader know how little confidence you have in your own ability to tell a story. That you can't just write one good chapter after another. No need to manipulate your readers.

[Aarne Ylä-rotiala · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not only has this ex Royal Marine gone through an incredible adventure - probably "loving every minute of it" - but he can also write.
The story is compelling, and you just need to know what lies behind the next set of rapids, what is going to happen at the next town or fishing village, and will he ever reach the Atlantic.
The ending is a great tribute to the people he met and lived with during his trip.

[Robert Goodwin · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a 5 star adventure, be in no doubt, but like many adventurers the travel writing style is a little 'lite'. Nevertheless, it is a good armchair adventure read and leaves you with admiration for this man and the way he navigated the human obstacles as well as the watery ones on the way. He could easily have disappeared en route with this throat slit but for his sense of judgement.

[Erik Beyer · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great journey. All along the trip he was told, "no way, you will get killed" and "you won't make it." He just smiled, put his hand out for a hand shake, was not afraid to stand up for himself or take part in a family meal. In the end, he made in one piece.

[Mrs Christine Allen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting

I enjoyed the description of the places he visited and the people he met along his journey.
I would probably recommend this book to people with some knowledge of canoeing or kayaking.

[Phillip Lloyd · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very interesting and solid read, I read this in 3 days, it flowed well (no pun intended) and its generally well written and engaging.

The achievement itself is quite something, but then again if you follow the advice and adopt a similar attitude to Phil you could probably just about do anything. I do like the attitude of (ex) Royal Marines, they seem resourceful, tough yet reasonable people.

I learnt a little of previous expeditions not least the Stanley expedition in the 1870s, there was a good mix of everything and the History, Politics, Geography, etc.

I generally liked Phil's humours although he did get a little crazy at times (I'm not surprised). If I was being picky I'd have liked a little more description in some parts and if anything the book may be a little short - Just over 200 pages for a 5 month trip, but these are generally minor things.

I think the real message in this trip is to be humble (and in a non virtuous sense if that is possible) but grateful for what you have and to see life in a new perspective. I enjoyed his interaction with Janvier and the four brother fisherman, there is some about gut instinct in this book and I can only wish that there are more books like this out there.

Phil would be a good guy to have on your side, very positive and forward thinking. I know that's not perhaps the point but somewhere his positivity has rubbed off on me I hope. I'd definitely look at watching the accompanying film.

Would I go to the Congo to do what he did, Absolutely not. But would I look into canoeing my local river (The Severn) absolutely, I think that's another point of this book, therefore it gets the full five stars from me.

[Sue Benn · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved this adventure, but I did not envy the author, nor was I inspired to go to that part of the world - way too scary, and depressing, and I'd never survive. I was fascinated by his courage and madness at undertaking the adventure, and at how he decided to deal with the many and various threats and demands, physically and mentally. Clearly he was fortunate to survive. But he did so by being calm and clearly by having an effective style of chat which enabled him to get to know the people he met by endeavouring to communicate by a mixture of English, French, or local dialects he had picked up over the years. He also read the body language of the individual and those around him. I loved that he came back with a new outlook on life, having met so many who were masters of their environment somehow, however poor and difficult their lives were. He was practical, and was clearly used to living rough, and judging when he was quite likely in danger. He writes with humour, and he clearly really loved so many of the people. Despite the corruption and violence and greed he met from individuals along the way - often "officials" - he was clearly a glass half full guy, who decided that the people of DRC were amazing human beings.

[Sean T Scanlon · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable story

I enjoyed this story and the sense of adventure. The writing was not really high quality but easy to take in quickly. Harwood is nonetheless honest and forthright in his account of his adventure on the Congo River. I followed a long on Google earth to get a better idea of where he was at through each stage.

The last part of the journey is the most enjoyable and his three comrades who accompanied him in the later stages really gave the people of the Congo a better image than the many corrupt officials he encountered.

I’d recommend Jeffrey Tayler’s Facing the Congo for a better read and higher quality of writing.

[Carrie Hampton · Rating 5 out of 5]

Phil is clearly a flawed man, who by his own admission can't hold down a relationship and falls in love with other people's wives just from a glance, but my goodness he has fortitude and grit and an incredible "can do" attitude that makes me believe I too can do anything. It might help if I had the kind of military combat training he has and the mental and physical strength. I actually liked that he loses his temper and goes all 'Thor' with the baddies. Who wouldn't when faced with the racist hatred he encountered along the river. Some people just need putting in their place and Phil did that as and when necessary. He made a few friends too, generously giving his belongings away - all of them by the end. He's not a great writer, but the pace and adventure took me downriver with him all the way and I'm glad I went along for the ride.

[Hannah · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this recently over quarantine and may I say its a powerful read! It gave me an insight into something I hardly knew about it(canoeing and the Congo), yet with his narration I felt I was taking the journey with him, - with his humours narration paired with informative description on his experience I couldn’t put the book down ! Reading something as fantastic as this really makes you want to do something as adventurous and as exciting as his- A MUST READ

[Graham Brownett · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is as much about Phil Harwood’s adventure canoeing the Congo river as it is about the poverty, hostility and friendships he encountered on the way. He is an ordinary guy following a long held dream of canoeing the length of one of the most dangerous rivers in the world. He faced not just the eddies, waterfalls and rapids but snakes, hippos and crocodiles as well as the locals who demanded money from him and threatened his life.

[Hugh Sheehy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Enjoyed this book. Wanted a first-hand story about life on the Congo and this was just that. His writing was a little irreverent and light hearted at times but I didn't mind that too much. He gave a good, first-hand, account of what it was like to travel down the congo by canoe. It was never really a page turner, just a relaxing easy-to-read account and each night i picked it up, I found it easy to tap back into the timeline he was on. Overall I enjoyed it.

[John Moorhouse · Rating 5 out of 5]

An entertaining read of a truly remarkable adventure through extremely difficult physical and dangerous country.
The story is told well and explains how he overcame the many obstacles both natural and man-made that were thrown in his way.
I have nothing but admiration for his dogged perseverance in getting the job done and seeing his goal though to the end.

[Elisabeth · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting travel book on a man who canoeed the Congo river, meeting many interesting characters on the way, most of whom tried to cheat him for his money. Something I could never do myself, if only for the diet based on rice and fish, it was a curious read and eye-opening about the cultures and attitudes of some remote places which he visited whilst travelling on the river.