Having been a picky eater all my life, I have always had an interest in understanding the science of taste and food. In all my experiences with picky eaters - no two are the same (though onions and vegetables seem to commonly be hated) and there isn't a one of us that hasn't wondered why or tried to reform. Every picky eater understands the anxiety of being an adult at a work lunch carefully picking the celery out of a chicken salad sandwich, hoping no one will notice. And on occasion I have had the pleasure of dining with even pickier eaters than myself and have thought "Good God, just eat it." And there are, in fact, very few books written about - especially adult picky eaters (there are perhaps three "picky eater" cookbooks that mostly advise one to add pureed vegetables to brownie mixes). This book and its gross title (succotash is a combination of corn and lima beans), is mostly a journalistic memoir with some science spliced in. She covers the physical aspects of picky eating (taste can be influenced by a number of factors including genetics, physical taste receptors, smell and texture). I was delighted to see her explore the dubious explanation of picky eating resulting from too many or too few tastebuds. She provides an even more complex view of genetics - suggesting that there are over 23 genes for bitter taste alone - and we still don't know what they all do. Genes, of course, if you know anything about epigenetics (and you've paid attention to the much debated causes of mental illness or homosexuality) are not destiny and it's common for children with the same taste genes as their mothers to be more sensitive to food than their adult forbears. In fact - our understanding of the four basic "tastes" is growing more vibrant. There are now six tastes (not the four taught to schoolchildren) - bitter, sweet, sour, salty, umami and calcium and more are contenders including kokumi (an Eastern taste meaning "mouthfulness" that some Westerners can't even taste), piquance (think spicy), coolness (peppermint or menthol), metallicity (the taste of gold leaf if one can taste it), fat (though some scientists think we feel it instead of taste it), carbon dioxide (carbonation - another contender for a "felt" sensation we are now finding specific taste genes/receptors associated with this). Some of these we have only found in mice so far but I wouldn't be surprised if we haven't found them in humans in the next 20-30 years. How we perceive food is also heavily influenced by smell (the reason food tastes funny when you have a cold because you can't smell) and there are over 500 genes that determine smell. And of course one cannot ignore context in either case - anyone who has ever smelled parmesan knows that it moonlights as a delicious cheese by day and stinky feet by night. Furthermore, emotions like anger can affect our sense of taste.
Lucianovic's experience sometimes bored me but also reminded me of the great lengths I have often gone to in order to hide my eating habits (getting up and offering to clear the plates offers a convenient way to throw away your unwanted food without anyone noticing). In fact, my wife remarked around the time of our third date that I did not eat much (I still don't like eating in front of others) - and I am still loathe to eat anything other than pure junk food if I am tired, stressed, anxious or busy (junk food boosts both serotonin and dopamine). I skip a lot of lunches and eating anything remotely healthy requires a lot of time and prep (meanwhile my wife can microwave a freezer burned bag of broccoli and eat it like a snack). Just like Lucianovic, I coped with my eating habits by learning to cook, exploring new and exotic foods that had no association with the ones I was forced to eat as a child (canned vegetables and fruit blech) and learning as much as I could about others with similar concerns. In fact, my own food aversions have often made me more sensitive to anyone who struggles to fill their plate at a buffet which includes vegans, vegetarians, those with severe food allergies and medical complications and dieters. Eat and let eat, I say. Lucianovic also gives prudent advice for parents - who she highlights - are worrying more than ever about their picky eaters (some have gone so far as to take the children to "feeding clinics" where the child is strapped down to a chair until the food is finished). My own mother - from where I likely inherited my picky eating - spared me these sort of draconian attempts at behavioral modification - in part because she had been subjected to them. Lucianovic reminds parents to chill out - stop forcing kids to eat, dump the Clean Plate rule, quit bartering over "three bites" and don't bend over backward to make a kid a second or third meal if they don't eat (expect them to enjoy mealtime with the family even if they don't enjoy the meal and/or let them make a PB and J for themselves later on or just skip the meal) and don't make them gag - it's gross for everyone at the table and just makes it worse. She recounts, too, how picky eaters frustrate chefs, how some picky eaters are entitled are rude, and on the flipside how some people won't date picky eaters. Still - she spends considerable time highlighting the two kinds of picky eater - the Lying Picky Eater (who will pretend to eat food they hate) and the Honest Picky Eater (who is honest about what they want). I have been both and both have their merits. And she describes how many picky eaters become foodies or vegetarians (a common aversion is meat or in my wife's case - bird meat that still looks like it did on the alive bird - my wife will not eat a cornish game hen, for instance). Still - Lucianovic's message of positively overcoming picky eating is incomplete. For one - even picky eaters that become foodies may still struggle. Learning to eat broccoli is a victory for a picky eater (I remember when I learned to like it in my mid twenties) but I still spend a lot of time preparing, planning, shopping for, and researching food recipes that could be better spent doing almost anything else. Furthermore, some picky eaters do not fall reasonably into the category of "quirky" but may food restrict so much that they lose weight or develop social anxiety or end up on an episode of My Strange Addiction (for which most addictions are basically just instances of pica - eating glass, nail polish, chalk, dirt, ashes or in one case - only cheesy potatoes) At one point Lucianovic compares her journey (first hating food and now loving it) with that of a "manic depressive." Lucianovic is not an expert on eating disorders or mental health nor is she a scientist so I should go easy on her - but I'm never quite moved when people describe when people use bipolar disorder (which can be so severe it requires hospitalization and psychosis) as a metaphor for what is - in this case - quirky but slightly abnormal behavior. Most kids do outgrew their pickiness to some extent - and Lucianovic is right to highlight the numerous and interesting ways people learn to do that - but some severe picky eaters will grow up to inherit the actual disease (or something similar) that Lucianovic uses as a literary device.