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Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume
REVISED EDITION, 2022
For centuries, people have taken an instinctive pleasure in rubbing scents into their skin and using them to pray, to heal, and to make love. Yet in many ways perfumery, with its lush history and creative and sensual possibilities, is a lost art. No one knows this better than artisan natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, who has spent nearly thirty years immersed in the world of scent, culling the most beautiful natural essences from all over the world and using them to create exquisite fragrances.
In Essence and Alchemy, which has been published in fourteen foreign editions, Aftel teaches the art of making natural perfumes, complete with recipes. She resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists. Tracking scent through the boudoir and bath and into the sanctums of worship, she offers insights on the relationship of scent to sex, solitude, and the soul, unearthing a forgotten world of natural essences and their profound resonance with body, mind, and spirit.
This audiobook is expertly read by Bonnie Agan, with audio engineering by Blake Rook. It was produced and published by Echo Point Books & Media, an independent bookseller in Brattleboro, Vermont.
For centuries, people have taken an instinctive pleasure in rubbing scents into their skin and using them to pray, to heal, and to make love. Yet in many ways perfumery, with its lush history and creative and sensual possibilities, is a lost art. No one knows this better than artisan natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, who has spent nearly thirty years immersed in the world of scent, culling the most beautiful natural essences from all over the world and using them to create exquisite fragrances.
In Essence and Alchemy, which has been published in fourteen foreign editions, Aftel teaches the art of making natural perfumes, complete with recipes. She resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists. Tracking scent through the boudoir and bath and into the sanctums of worship, she offers insights on the relationship of scent to sex, solitude, and the soul, unearthing a forgotten world of natural essences and their profound resonance with body, mind, and spirit.
This audiobook is expertly read by Bonnie Agan, with audio engineering by Blake Rook. It was produced and published by Echo Point Books & Media, an independent bookseller in Brattleboro, Vermont.
285 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 2001
278 people are currently reading
2616 people want to read
About the author
Mandy Aftel
15 books69 followersMandy Aftel is an American perfumer. She is the owner and nose behind the natural perfume line Aftelier as well as the author of nine books, including four books on natural perfume and a cookbook on essential oils.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 72 reviews
August 18, 2017
Someone saw me reading this book, and the comment was, "But you don't even like perfumes!"
That's partly true. I don't like synthetic perfumes. I don't like being bombarded by someone's overzealous application of scent. I don't like synthetic fragrance. (Every time someone tells me their homemade soap or perfume has "only the best all-natural essential oil of banana/cucumber/lilac/fill in blank with any other synthetic scent masquerading as "natural oil," I cringe. There is no such thing as cucumber EO.) Now, what I do like are things that smell good and are subtle. I like history. I like thinking about an everyday thing in a new way or understanding how something works and why.
This is a book that likely receives both more praise and more criticism than it deserves, but how well one likes this book will depend on why one is reading it. It's neither a "how to" book nor a straight history, but it contains elements of both. Within the "how to" part, the author does much better with the explanation of how scent affects (most) people and how to approach the process of building a fragrance blend than she does the nuts-and-bolts of making a specific perfume. There are recipes, but they are either skewed to her preferences -- and she seems to be overly fond of floral and sweet scents-- or contain ingredients that are unlikely to be within the budget (or accessibility) of a hobbyist. Within the history part, she does a nice job of covering how alchemy and perfume-making are related, the history of using scents for ritual and pleasure, and the beginning of the perfume trade; however, don't expect to find the scuttlebutt about the big perfume houses or famous brands.
Because I was reading it for entertainment and as a general history of fragrance, I enjoyed it. The author has a lovely writing style, sensuous and descriptive, although she comes off a little assumptive in a few spots. (No, everyone does not like rose or ylang-ylang and everyone does not like sweet powdery finishes.) The writing reminded me a little of Diane Ackerman's A Natural History of the Senses.
I found her recipes the least interesting part of the book, but I understand that she is including them as exercises on how to train one's sense of smell. For me, the best parts of the book were the history of how fragrance has been used throughout various ages/cultures and the section comparing building a fragrance to composing music.
There is a substantial bibliography, and the text is indexed and sourced. The vendor list is likely out of date, but perhaps will be updated in e-book format.
In all, an interesting and enjoyable read.
That's partly true. I don't like synthetic perfumes. I don't like being bombarded by someone's overzealous application of scent. I don't like synthetic fragrance. (Every time someone tells me their homemade soap or perfume has "only the best all-natural essential oil of banana/cucumber/lilac/fill in blank with any other synthetic scent masquerading as "natural oil," I cringe. There is no such thing as cucumber EO.) Now, what I do like are things that smell good and are subtle. I like history. I like thinking about an everyday thing in a new way or understanding how something works and why.
This is a book that likely receives both more praise and more criticism than it deserves, but how well one likes this book will depend on why one is reading it. It's neither a "how to" book nor a straight history, but it contains elements of both. Within the "how to" part, the author does much better with the explanation of how scent affects (most) people and how to approach the process of building a fragrance blend than she does the nuts-and-bolts of making a specific perfume. There are recipes, but they are either skewed to her preferences -- and she seems to be overly fond of floral and sweet scents-- or contain ingredients that are unlikely to be within the budget (or accessibility) of a hobbyist. Within the history part, she does a nice job of covering how alchemy and perfume-making are related, the history of using scents for ritual and pleasure, and the beginning of the perfume trade; however, don't expect to find the scuttlebutt about the big perfume houses or famous brands.
Because I was reading it for entertainment and as a general history of fragrance, I enjoyed it. The author has a lovely writing style, sensuous and descriptive, although she comes off a little assumptive in a few spots. (No, everyone does not like rose or ylang-ylang and everyone does not like sweet powdery finishes.) The writing reminded me a little of Diane Ackerman's A Natural History of the Senses.
I found her recipes the least interesting part of the book, but I understand that she is including them as exercises on how to train one's sense of smell. For me, the best parts of the book were the history of how fragrance has been used throughout various ages/cultures and the section comparing building a fragrance to composing music.
There is a substantial bibliography, and the text is indexed and sourced. The vendor list is likely out of date, but perhaps will be updated in e-book format.
In all, an interesting and enjoyable read.
November 14, 2014
Not what I expected. I wanted an actual history of perfume- how it was made, how it reflected society, how it differed in different cultures, etc. This book was a disorganized mess of random quotes about alchemy, information about perfume ingredients from a mostly botany-related perspective, and recipes for making your own natural perfumes. There were also lots of snide comments about how synthetic perfumes suck, which was insulting as well as inaccurate (for instance, the author asserted that synthetic perfumes smell the same on everybody- not true!). Glad I just checked it out of the library instead of buying it!
October 19, 2007
Reading this book was a direct result of my new obsession with the Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, a boutique perfume oil company that I just ADORE. There's lots of practical information, a big helping of encouragement to experiment, and lots of good mythological and historical tidbits.
July 19, 2024
Deep in my perfume fixation nothing else matters
August 5, 2016
My long absence from the book reviewing community, both on here and on YouTube, can be blamed in large part to my burgeoning interest in perfume, which started about two years ago and has only become more serious. (Well, there’s work, too, but I figured I’d blame-shift to something that sounds mildly interesting.) The author, Mandy Aftel, is one of the great purveyors of independent perfumery in the United States. She currently operates a highly successful company called Aftelier Perfumes (a play on the word “atelier”) that sells perfumes and other scent-related products.
When you ask around in Facebook fragrance-related groups for other people who make their own scents, as I plan to start doing quite soon, this is always the first book that everyone recommends. People simply rave about it. If there’s anywhere you want to start, they say, it’s with “Essence & Alchemy.” So, in full preparation for learning as much as I could before I began ordering essential oils, concretes, and other ingredients used in perfumery, I hurriedly ordered the book from Amazon.
However, I was pretty disappointed by what this book had to offer. It’s not wholly useless for the complete neophyte, which I totally am: there’s good information about what kinds of notes mix best with others, and what kinds of oils serve as “top notes” (ones that you smell first), heart notes (ones that you smell for most of the duration of the scent), and base notes (the scent as it begins to finally die away on your skin). I had a lot of questions. Can sandalwood be a heart note? Is there anything I can do to extend the life of citrus notes? What kind of rose is better, Egyptian or Bulgarian? This was really valuable information, and I’m glad I found some answers at a reasonable price. (You’d be amazed at how expensive some of the technical books on perfumery can be.)
However, much of the book concerns, rather unfortunately, the “alchemy” of the title. I suppose that might have been a hint that it would have been a little, how shall I put it – new agey and kooky? – for my tastes. Much of the first half of the book – the part that focuses on the “alchemy” of fragrance – is interlarded with block quotes, like the following one from French philosophy Henri Bergson: “These memories [olfactory sensations], messengers from the unconscious, remind us what we are dragging behind us unawares. But, even though we may have no distinct idea of it, we feel vaguely that our past remains present to us … Doubtless we think with only a small part of our past, but it with our entire past, the original bent of our soul, that we desire, will, and act. Our past, then, as a whole, is made manifest to us in its impulse; it is felt in the form of tendency, although a small part of it is known in the form of idea.” Other similar quotes from people like Carl Jung abound.
Don’t get me wrong. I love reading Jung, and even Bergson. Look at the history of what I’ve reviewed: it’s full of obscure philosophy that only the unrepentant nerd would even deign to touch. What I enjoy reading less is how a perfumer who seems to be perhaps a bit too in love with her own craft, mixes in texts on alchemy and philosophy so create a sort of salmagundi of voodoo that is only occasionally graced with the useful information other people promise it has.
For someone genuinely interested in taking their first steps into creating their own fragrances, only chapters 3-6 are necessary. There’s also a very helpful index at the back that gives a list of the most important oils that Aftel says are indispensable and every perfume should have, along with a curated list of online shops where you can purchase said materials. If you’re interested, there’s also a short chapter about mixing bath salts (no, not the fun kind that make you eat people’s faces off). All in all, not a total loss, but I was sad not to have found more useful information here.
Bravely onward to Steffen Arctander’s “Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin”!
When you ask around in Facebook fragrance-related groups for other people who make their own scents, as I plan to start doing quite soon, this is always the first book that everyone recommends. People simply rave about it. If there’s anywhere you want to start, they say, it’s with “Essence & Alchemy.” So, in full preparation for learning as much as I could before I began ordering essential oils, concretes, and other ingredients used in perfumery, I hurriedly ordered the book from Amazon.
However, I was pretty disappointed by what this book had to offer. It’s not wholly useless for the complete neophyte, which I totally am: there’s good information about what kinds of notes mix best with others, and what kinds of oils serve as “top notes” (ones that you smell first), heart notes (ones that you smell for most of the duration of the scent), and base notes (the scent as it begins to finally die away on your skin). I had a lot of questions. Can sandalwood be a heart note? Is there anything I can do to extend the life of citrus notes? What kind of rose is better, Egyptian or Bulgarian? This was really valuable information, and I’m glad I found some answers at a reasonable price. (You’d be amazed at how expensive some of the technical books on perfumery can be.)
However, much of the book concerns, rather unfortunately, the “alchemy” of the title. I suppose that might have been a hint that it would have been a little, how shall I put it – new agey and kooky? – for my tastes. Much of the first half of the book – the part that focuses on the “alchemy” of fragrance – is interlarded with block quotes, like the following one from French philosophy Henri Bergson: “These memories [olfactory sensations], messengers from the unconscious, remind us what we are dragging behind us unawares. But, even though we may have no distinct idea of it, we feel vaguely that our past remains present to us … Doubtless we think with only a small part of our past, but it with our entire past, the original bent of our soul, that we desire, will, and act. Our past, then, as a whole, is made manifest to us in its impulse; it is felt in the form of tendency, although a small part of it is known in the form of idea.” Other similar quotes from people like Carl Jung abound.
Don’t get me wrong. I love reading Jung, and even Bergson. Look at the history of what I’ve reviewed: it’s full of obscure philosophy that only the unrepentant nerd would even deign to touch. What I enjoy reading less is how a perfumer who seems to be perhaps a bit too in love with her own craft, mixes in texts on alchemy and philosophy so create a sort of salmagundi of voodoo that is only occasionally graced with the useful information other people promise it has.
For someone genuinely interested in taking their first steps into creating their own fragrances, only chapters 3-6 are necessary. There’s also a very helpful index at the back that gives a list of the most important oils that Aftel says are indispensable and every perfume should have, along with a curated list of online shops where you can purchase said materials. If you’re interested, there’s also a short chapter about mixing bath salts (no, not the fun kind that make you eat people’s faces off). All in all, not a total loss, but I was sad not to have found more useful information here.
Bravely onward to Steffen Arctander’s “Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin”!
July 29, 2017
This came as an unexpected gem. I was so impressed with this book. Initially I was nervous that it was going to be heavy on jargon and read like a research paper, but it was nothing like that. Aftel did a great job explaining the jargon, the history of perfume and it's relation to alchemy while sewing it together with a such sensual writing that it was really a joy to read. Also, her bibliography is incredible! If you're doing research in metaphysics, religion, botany, pharmacology, sexuality or olfactory-related biology, you'd most likely benefit from looking over her bibliography. She also teaches you how to make perfumes and how to develop your nose.
November 30, 2012
I wasn't expecting so much writing about mixing scents, formulas and storing oils. I did enjoy the parts when the author gave the readers a more historical background on perfume and the science of scent and perfumery, although it was limited.
Want to read
November 18, 2025(pre-read)
she's coming in the mail soon and i cannot wait to devour this. i feel like as ravenous as my cat (fat) does in the morning when she demands to be fed. i'm very hopeful about this book, i don't really know what to expect but i know (manifesting) it will be good.
she's coming in the mail soon and i cannot wait to devour this. i feel like as ravenous as my cat (fat) does in the morning when she demands to be fed. i'm very hopeful about this book, i don't really know what to expect but i know (manifesting) it will be good.
June 23, 2025
This book is mostly technical and addressed to people that already have perfume knowledge and experience (or passion) in manufacturing perfumes. I liked the historical facts about diverse fragrances. I cannot say I didn’t learn a lot from this book, but for a person that has no attraction in the domain was a bit hard to follow.
May 4, 2024
I’ve had this book since I visited the Aftel family museum in Berkeley in late 2022. I finally read it after launching my own first fragrance. Overall the book is fitting for all levels of experience in perfumery - there are stories, instructions, ideas, and analyses that are sure to provide something new to anyone. I felt the instructional part was super helpful, it gave me ways to freshen up my own perfume making process, new materials and supplies to try, at the same time it matched a lot of the best practices I learned at a (very expensive) summer perfume course at Grasse Institute of Parfumery - so I really recommend it as an accessible, cost effective, and trusty option for anyone interested in creating perfume.
October 30, 2010
This was one of the first books I read on the history of perfume and perfume making. I think it is an excellent blend of 'story' and fact. The art and science of perfumery is fascinating. As is the long history of fragrance in human society. I love it. Aftel captures the fact, the history, the science, and the mystery. I'd highly recommend this book to any one with an interest in this subject.
December 28, 2017
Interesting book, although the constant references to alchemy, change and magic become tiresome after the first few pages; so tiresome that i'm giving this a mere two stars or ok if you need a translation. However, there is some refreshing information on the history of perfumery as well as pertinent information on essential oils and their attributes, as well as useful listings of internet resources, suppliers, and what is needed for a beginner to start creating their own essences. Ok.
February 27, 2020
A wonder of old knowledge. I will be making my own scents now, yes thank you.
August 26, 2021
been sniffin like crazy ,, made my first scent - patchouli, rosewood, bergamot, orange bitters - as a gift for mon Cheri !! meditative informative read
August 17, 2025
really really interesting
June 26, 2013
so far so bad. assumption-laden and factoid ridden. irritating and ill-informed. there's some fascinating writing about olfactory processing in humans. this is not it.
I plugged on for a while as she has a vast collection of antiquarian perfume and alchemy books. I had a vain hope some distillate of that history might have infused these pages.
I plugged on for a while as she has a vast collection of antiquarian perfume and alchemy books. I had a vain hope some distillate of that history might have infused these pages.
December 14, 2018
A wonderful exploration of the art, materials and emotional resonance of natural perfumery. I loved every page of this book and found that it heightened both my appreciation and awareness of scents around me.
September 22, 2022
There is a lot of bizarre woo and an over reliance on long quotations, but useful information about perfume production, including fixation and composition in particular. Only so useful because of the author's poorly defended bias toward purely natural ingredients.
January 21, 2011
A sensual history of perfume. Interesting!
Several examples of perfume mixology I will experiment with.
Several examples of perfume mixology I will experiment with.
October 10, 2016
This is a very magical book. If you ever read "Against Nature" and felt real strange during the perfumes part, definitely read this.
Read
December 23, 2019nice
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
February 22, 2024
Θεωρείται η βίβλος του ερασιτέχνη αρωματοποιού και όχι άδικα, γιατί η Άφτελ μοιράζεται πολλές από τις γνώσεις της για την δημιουργία φυσικών αρωμάτων, για τα αιθέρια έλαια και τους συνδυασμούς τους. Κυρίως, όμως, είναι ένα βιβλίο απολαυστικό στην ανάγνωση και εισάγει τον αναγνώστη σε έναν κόσμο μαγείας, αισθησιασμού και αρχαίας γνώσης, ταξιδεύοντας πίσω ως τις απαρχές του αρώματος, που είναι άρρηκτα συνδεδεμένες με την αλχημεία και τις λατρευτικές τελετές όλων των αρχαίων πολιτισμών. Γραμμένο με άφθονο λυρισμό και εμπλουτισμένο με πολυάριθμες πηγές, είναι μια ανοιχτή πρόσκληση - πρόκληση στον κόσμο της αρωματοποιίας, κυρίως για αυτόν που την αντιλαμβάνεται ως μια εσωτερική, πνευματική και μεταμορφωτική εμπειρία.
"Διαχρονικό και παγκόσμιο, το άρωμα είχε ανέκαθεν πρωτεύοντα ρόλο στις ιεροτελεστείες, στην ιατρική, στους μύθους, στις κατακτήσεις. Βοηθούσε τους ανθρώπους να προσευχηθούν, να θεραπεύσουν, να κάνουν έρωτα και πόλεμο, να προετοιμαστούν για το θάνατο, να δημιουργήσουν".
"Η παρακμή της αρωματοποιίας με φυσικά υλικά δεν αποτέλεσε μόνο υλική απώλεια αλλά και πνευματική. Τα φυσικά αρώματα εξελίσσονται πάνω στο δέρμα, αλλάζοντας με το χρόνο και ανταποκρινόμενα με μοναδικό τρόπο στη χημεία του σώματος. Στο πιο βασικό επίπεδο αλληλεπιδρούν με τη μυρωδιά μας κάνοντας αυτό που είμαστε - γενικά και κατά την διάρκεια μιας εξελικτικής διαδικασίας - μέρος της διαμόρφωσης του αρώματος. Αφορούν τη σχέση μας με τον εαυτό μας και δευτερευόντως μόνο τη σχέση μας με τους άλλους".
"Οι οργανικές ουσίες, όπως τα αιθέρια έλαια, έχουν μια δομή που μόνο η μητέρα φύση μπορεί να συναρμολογήσει. Έχουν μια δύναμη ζωής, μια επιπλέον παρόρμηση, που μόνο τα ζωντανά πράγματα έχουν".
"Πηχτές, αδιαμόρφωτες, λιπαρές, οι νότες βάσης αποτελούν μια υπενθύμιση του ασυνείδητου - όλων όσα είναι σκιώδη, πυκνά, ασαφή, αλλά αμετακίνητα και προσδιοριστικά για εμάς - και της αδράνειας και της αντίστασης που το περιφρουρούν..." "Το δέρμα είναι μια βάση κάτω από τη βάση και έτσι οι νότες βάσης δημιουργούν την πλέον στενή σχέση ανάμεσα στο άρωμα και στο άτομο που το φορά".
"Οι νότες καρδιάς δίνουν σώμα στα χαρμάνια, μεταδίδοντας ζεστασιά και πληρότητα. Με την τολμηρότητά τους, τη σεξουαλικότητά τους, την ειλικρίνεια και την τρυφερότητά τους, αποτελούν την ιδανική μεταφορά - την ενσάρκωση, μάλλον - του πάθους".
"Ο ρόλος της κορυφαίας νότας είναι αφενός να ορίσει το άρωμα και αφετέρου να ορίσει το εναρκτήριο σημείο στην φαντασία αυτού που το οσφραίνεται... Ενώ η κορυφαία νότα σηματοδοτεί το τέλος της διαδρομής ως προς την παρασκευή του αρώματος, αναγγέλλει επίσης την έναρξη της διαδρομής της όσφρησής του... Στην αλχημεία, όπως και στην αρωματοποιία, ό,τι είναι βαρύ γίνεται ελαφρύ, ό,τι είναι ελαφρύ γίνεται σταθερό, ό,τι είναι πάνω είναι και κάτω".
"...Οι γυναίκες δεν θέλουν να μυρίζουν σαν λουλούδι. Θέλουν το άρωμά τους να αναδίδει μια σεξουαλικά δελεαστική αύρα. Έτσι, ένα πραγματικά αφροδισιακό άρωμα είναι αυτό που πυροδοτεί την υποσυνείδητη ανάμνηση της ζωώδους φύσης μας, σε όλες τις ερωτικές εκφράσεις της. Δεν επιχειρεί μια επιστροφή στη ζωώδη φύση μας, ούτε προσπαθεί να την συγκαλύψει, αλλά μάλλον να την εξυψώσει".
"Διαχρονικό και παγκόσμιο, το άρωμα είχε ανέκαθεν πρωτεύοντα ρόλο στις ιεροτελεστείες, στην ιατρική, στους μύθους, στις κατακτήσεις. Βοηθούσε τους ανθρώπους να προσευχηθούν, να θεραπεύσουν, να κάνουν έρωτα και πόλεμο, να προετοιμαστούν για το θάνατο, να δημιουργήσουν".
"Η παρακμή της αρωματοποιίας με φυσικά υλικά δεν αποτέλεσε μόνο υλική απώλεια αλλά και πνευματική. Τα φυσικά αρώματα εξελίσσονται πάνω στο δέρμα, αλλάζοντας με το χρόνο και ανταποκρινόμενα με μοναδικό τρόπο στη χημεία του σώματος. Στο πιο βασικό επίπεδο αλληλεπιδρούν με τη μυρωδιά μας κάνοντας αυτό που είμαστε - γενικά και κατά την διάρκεια μιας εξελικτικής διαδικασίας - μέρος της διαμόρφωσης του αρώματος. Αφορούν τη σχέση μας με τον εαυτό μας και δευτερευόντως μόνο τη σχέση μας με τους άλλους".
"Οι οργανικές ουσίες, όπως τα αιθέρια έλαια, έχουν μια δομή που μόνο η μητέρα φύση μπορεί να συναρμολογήσει. Έχουν μια δύναμη ζωής, μια επιπλέον παρόρμηση, που μόνο τα ζωντανά πράγματα έχουν".
"Πηχτές, αδιαμόρφωτες, λιπαρές, οι νότες βάσης αποτελούν μια υπενθύμιση του ασυνείδητου - όλων όσα είναι σκιώδη, πυκνά, ασαφή, αλλά αμετακίνητα και προσδιοριστικά για εμάς - και της αδράνειας και της αντίστασης που το περιφρουρούν..." "Το δέρμα είναι μια βάση κάτω από τη βάση και έτσι οι νότες βάσης δημιουργούν την πλέον στενή σχέση ανάμεσα στο άρωμα και στο άτομο που το φορά".
"Οι νότες καρδιάς δίνουν σώμα στα χαρμάνια, μεταδίδοντας ζεστασιά και πληρότητα. Με την τολμηρότητά τους, τη σεξουαλικότητά τους, την ειλικρίνεια και την τρυφερότητά τους, αποτελούν την ιδανική μεταφορά - την ενσάρκωση, μάλλον - του πάθους".
"Ο ρόλος της κορυφαίας νότας είναι αφενός να ορίσει το άρωμα και αφετέρου να ορίσει το εναρκτήριο σημείο στην φαντασία αυτού που το οσφραίνεται... Ενώ η κορυφαία νότα σηματοδοτεί το τέλος της διαδρομής ως προς την παρασκευή του αρώματος, αναγγέλλει επίσης την έναρξη της διαδρομής της όσφρησής του... Στην αλχημεία, όπως και στην αρωματοποιία, ό,τι είναι βαρύ γίνεται ελαφρύ, ό,τι είναι ελαφρύ γίνεται σταθερό, ό,τι είναι πάνω είναι και κάτω".
"...Οι γυναίκες δεν θέλουν να μυρίζουν σαν λουλούδι. Θέλουν το άρωμά τους να αναδίδει μια σεξουαλικά δελεαστική αύρα. Έτσι, ένα πραγματικά αφροδισιακό άρωμα είναι αυτό που πυροδοτεί την υποσυνείδητη ανάμνηση της ζωώδους φύσης μας, σε όλες τις ερωτικές εκφράσεις της. Δεν επιχειρεί μια επιστροφή στη ζωώδη φύση μας, ούτε προσπαθεί να την συγκαλύψει, αλλά μάλλον να την εξυψώσει".
September 12, 2023
A helpful tome towards learning the history and steps to the art of the perfumer…
Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume by Mandy Aftel is a helpful manual for learning how to make your own perfume and appreciate those that laid the groundwork for the profession.
The book covers several centuries of perfume history…though it only give some light knowledge of specific perfumers and businesses from the past.
In addition, a healthy amount of time is paid to the equipment and ingredients necessary to make a perfume, with some of the perfume activities described in an almost alchemical way.
The ingredients cover the well known contributions, suitable substitutes when a variations is needed, cultural importance, and alternate names. A handful of perfume recipes (with the appropriate amount) are also included to be through for those interested in experimenting themselves.
The back also contains a handful of companies that are suitable sources of perfume ingredients but I am unsure how up to date that list is.
Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume by Mandy Aftel is a helpful manual for learning how to make your own perfume and appreciate those that laid the groundwork for the profession.
The book covers several centuries of perfume history…though it only give some light knowledge of specific perfumers and businesses from the past.
In addition, a healthy amount of time is paid to the equipment and ingredients necessary to make a perfume, with some of the perfume activities described in an almost alchemical way.
The ingredients cover the well known contributions, suitable substitutes when a variations is needed, cultural importance, and alternate names. A handful of perfume recipes (with the appropriate amount) are also included to be through for those interested in experimenting themselves.
The back also contains a handful of companies that are suitable sources of perfume ingredients but I am unsure how up to date that list is.
May 27, 2019
This was a fantastic introduction to the history of perfume making that was full of historical references and beautiful poetry of aromatic experiences. I learned quite a lot from this book, and it also reinforced what I already knew from my own experience. There are a good many fragrance blend recipes in here which I hope to experiment with one day.
The only thing I didn’t like about this book was the blatant bias against synthetic ingredients. The amount of plant material needed for essential oil creation isn’t sustainable, synthetics are needed to fill in the gaps for the demand. This is a discussion the author did not engage in other than comments here and there about synthetics being poor representation of the original. Sure, but not everyone can afford expensive essential oils nor can we sustain the enterprise environmentally. There’s room for both natural and synthetic oils in perfumery and I wish the author had discussed this more.
The only thing I didn’t like about this book was the blatant bias against synthetic ingredients. The amount of plant material needed for essential oil creation isn’t sustainable, synthetics are needed to fill in the gaps for the demand. This is a discussion the author did not engage in other than comments here and there about synthetics being poor representation of the original. Sure, but not everyone can afford expensive essential oils nor can we sustain the enterprise environmentally. There’s room for both natural and synthetic oils in perfumery and I wish the author had discussed this more.
February 14, 2018
I had a reservation to visit the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents in Berkeley, California so I decided to read one of her books on the airplane ride to San Francisco. This one was the easiest to find and it did not disappoint. If you are especially connected to your sense of smell like I am, you will love this book. And even if you have just a regular average relationship with your nose you will still love it. Lots of interesting stories about the history of scent, how specific scents are developed and how the whole perfume business has evolved. I actually met Mandy Aftel at her museum and she was so engaging that I will probably eventually inhale all of her books. And if you have the opportunity, visit the charming little museum which is housed in her Arts and Crafts cottage and staffed by her family.
August 12, 2018
Aftel beginnt mit einer allgemeinen Schilderung der Herstellung von Parfüms. Sie beschreibt anschaulich und in einfachen Begriffen die Grundlagen.
Leider wird nicht ganz klar, ob dies jetzt ein Fachbuch sein soll, wie die Fußnoten und Literaturverweise nahelegen, oder eine Schilderung persönlicher Erlebnisse und Ansichten. Nach den vielen, vielen Wiederholungen werde ich jedenfalls nicht mehr so schnell vergessen, dass Frau Aftel natürliche Essenzen synthetischen Duftstoffen vorzieht oder dass die Parfümeurskunst sehr viel mit Intuition zu tun hat.
Lobend hervorzuheben sind noch die konkreten Anweisungen und Rezepte, die dabei helfen, selbst Parfüme herzustellen.
Insgesamt habe ich mich mit diesem Buch auf ein Thema eingelassen, das mich am Rande interessierte, und habe auch eine am Rande interessante Erfahrung damit gemacht.
Leider wird nicht ganz klar, ob dies jetzt ein Fachbuch sein soll, wie die Fußnoten und Literaturverweise nahelegen, oder eine Schilderung persönlicher Erlebnisse und Ansichten. Nach den vielen, vielen Wiederholungen werde ich jedenfalls nicht mehr so schnell vergessen, dass Frau Aftel natürliche Essenzen synthetischen Duftstoffen vorzieht oder dass die Parfümeurskunst sehr viel mit Intuition zu tun hat.
Lobend hervorzuheben sind noch die konkreten Anweisungen und Rezepte, die dabei helfen, selbst Parfüme herzustellen.
Insgesamt habe ich mich mit diesem Buch auf ein Thema eingelassen, das mich am Rande interessierte, und habe auch eine am Rande interessante Erfahrung damit gemacht.
November 12, 2017
Goodness, this book has great ratings! I expected more.
I found the authors writing style to have alot of rambling, she would probably be better suited writing poetry as a result.
I did not appreciate the authors reference to the human race deriving itself sense of smell based on being monkeys that developed as a result of smelling eachother rectums. I have to admit I lost interest.
I did keep reading because I do love the romanticism of the topic in general. I stopped reading after several chapters.
Normally if I enjoy a book, I devour it in a few days, this book lost my interest from the beginning.
The historical foundations draws me to find another book that will satisfy my desire to learn the origins of this topic.
I found the authors writing style to have alot of rambling, she would probably be better suited writing poetry as a result.
I did not appreciate the authors reference to the human race deriving itself sense of smell based on being monkeys that developed as a result of smelling eachother rectums. I have to admit I lost interest.
I did keep reading because I do love the romanticism of the topic in general. I stopped reading after several chapters.
Normally if I enjoy a book, I devour it in a few days, this book lost my interest from the beginning.
The historical foundations draws me to find another book that will satisfy my desire to learn the origins of this topic.
July 15, 2023
"O olfato sempre foi considerado o mais etéreo dos sentidos."
Da série, leituras que eu não imaginaria fazer, temos esse livro sobre "a história natural do perfume". A autora apresenta uma linha do tempo em que comenta o desenvolvimento dessa arte, que tinha muita relação com a Alquimia e também com os diversos cultos na Antiguidade. Não só isso, como ela indica o modo de produzir seus primeiros perfumes naturais, que li só a título de curiosidade também. Faz um bom tempinho que comecei a ler este livro, por conta da indicação de um amigo próximo. Demorei um bocado de tempo para terminar, mas terminei e é isso que importa.
Da série, leituras que eu não imaginaria fazer, temos esse livro sobre "a história natural do perfume". A autora apresenta uma linha do tempo em que comenta o desenvolvimento dessa arte, que tinha muita relação com a Alquimia e também com os diversos cultos na Antiguidade. Não só isso, como ela indica o modo de produzir seus primeiros perfumes naturais, que li só a título de curiosidade também. Faz um bom tempinho que comecei a ler este livro, por conta da indicação de um amigo próximo. Demorei um bocado de tempo para terminar, mas terminei e é isso que importa.
August 31, 2024
I bought this book to research perfume for something I was writing. I was absolutely transfixed by the author's explanation of how creative perfume making is. I knew very little about how perfume was made and the different concentrates - now I do! But I also learned about the spiritual aspects of fragrance, as well a how the scent we wear become a part of our identity.
The most fascinating part was how perfume makes people feel, and the difference between natural and synthetic methods.
I read a lot of book on kindle, but I buy the hard copy of those I will go back to - always books that make me feel something. This is one of them.
The most fascinating part was how perfume makes people feel, and the difference between natural and synthetic methods.
I read a lot of book on kindle, but I buy the hard copy of those I will go back to - always books that make me feel something. This is one of them.
August 8, 2023
Relaciona perfume y alquimia de una manera super interesante, con ideas sacadas de la filosofia y la metafísica.
Tambien repasa el origen de casa ingrediente. De dónde se extrae y incluso una pequeña anecdota personal, histórica o mitológica.
Y por ultimo te da guías sobre cómo hacer tus propios perfumes (liquidos o solidos). Donde y qué tienes que comprar exactamente.
La autora es un amor, te habla todo el rato de sus ingredientes favoritos y de su propia experiencia personal y me parece súper tierna
Tambien repasa el origen de casa ingrediente. De dónde se extrae y incluso una pequeña anecdota personal, histórica o mitológica.
Y por ultimo te da guías sobre cómo hacer tus propios perfumes (liquidos o solidos). Donde y qué tienes que comprar exactamente.
La autora es un amor, te habla todo el rato de sus ingredientes favoritos y de su propia experiencia personal y me parece súper tierna
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