Hopkinson is a culinary reactionary in a mostly endearingly cranky way. This was the "it book" in the culinary world a few years ago. I looked at it in Politics and Prose but didn't think I needed recipes for brains, liver, kidneys, grouse, cod, smoked haddock, sweetbreads, or tripe. The "most useful cookbook of all time" blurb made me laugh--only in England! But he includes more enticing foods too: the simple pleasures of asparagus, chicken, chocolate, cream, eggs, endive, spinach, potatoes. He has a brief essay on each, and then a few recipes, mostly old favorites he has tweaked, with reminiscences about their origins. It's rare and pleasurable to find recipe instructions with a voice, as here for rice pudding: "Add the milk, which will seethe, and the rice/butter/sugar mixture will set into lumps. Fear not. Feel around with a wooden spoon and disperse the lumps because as the milk heats it will dissolve all in its path." I love that. Inevitably, I disagreed with some of his pronouncements, but I was glad to find someone else who's anti- raw spinach salads. There is also something very charming and profound about the idea of a cookbook as a collection of "stories."