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The Inn at the Top: Tales of Life at the Highest Pub in Britain

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The delightful tale of a young couple who in the late 1970s, on impulse, became the new landlords of the most remote, bleak and lonely pub - The Tan Hill Inn - located in the bleak landscape of the Yorkshire Dales.

Having seen an article in the newspaper about the pub's search for a new manager, they arrived just three weeks later as the new landlords of the The Tan Hill Inn. It is a wild, wind-swept place, set alone in a sea of peat bog and heather moorland that stretches unbroken as far as the eye can see. With only sheep and grouse for company, their closest neighbour was four miles away and the nearest town twelve. They had no experience of licensed trade or running a pub, no knowledge of farming and a complete inability to understand the dialect of the sheep farmers who were their local customers. Eager, well-meaning, but in over their heads, our two heroes embarked on a disaster-strewn career that somehow also turned into a lifelong love affair with the Dales.

The Inn at the Top is an entertaining ramble around the Inn, the breath-taking Dales countryside and a remarkable array of local characters, giving an insight into life in a very different different time and place.

289 pages, Kindle Edition

First published September 24, 2013

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246 people want to read

About the author

Neil Hanson

65 books36 followers
It's been a long and winding road... since graduating with a degree in philosophy (now that's useful...) I've been by turns plasterer's mate, holiday camp redcoat, ice cream salesman, exhibition organiser, art critic, rugby league commentator, freelance journalist, editor of the Good Beer Guide, owner of the highest pub in Great Britain and - finally! - a full-time author. It may not be an ideal career path, but it's given me a wealth of experiences that I draw on constantly in my own work.

I'm the author of over 50 published books. Under my own name I usually write narrative non-fiction a.k.a. popular history (though my sales figures suggest that it's never quite as popular as I'd like it to be...), but I have also written a serious novel, a few thrillers, two screenplays, travel writing and even a play-script for a musical as well. And in my day job as a professional "ghostwriter" I've written over forty other books, including a New York Times Number One best-seller.
I've spoken about my work at lectures, writers' festivals and other events all over the world and, when not writing, I'm often to be found riding my bike in the country around my home on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales.

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5 stars
142 (26%)
4 stars
167 (31%)
3 stars
151 (28%)
2 stars
54 (10%)
1 star
21 (3%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews
Profile Image for Leila.
442 reviews243 followers
November 21, 2017
This review of The Inn at the Top is after the second time I have read it and if I am honest the first time I did skip it here and there and never quite got into it properly. I therefore missed such a special read... but not this time. The author is the narrator and he is a born story teller. It begins fairly slowly with the initial description and background of how and why the author and his wife make the decision to take over this inn as Landlord and wife even though the two men who are looking for someone to run the inn are down and out rogues. I would imagine most readers would wonder why after reading this part, why they would be so unwise. I did. However this time I soon became totally absorbed.
I read and read on throughout the day, glued to the constant and diverse problems such as the presence of rats...(ugh!) and the ancient equipment which continually breaks down... both of which are among the often serious setbacks that the young couple meet with such a stoic acceptance. (To the annoyance of my puzzled cats who wanted attention and food. They did get their food but not too much attention... bless them)
The book is described in the blurb as "Dales Tales from the Seventies" The author beautifully describes a continual and in depth series of fascinating and personal anecdotes about the local characters in particular such as the farmers, or residents from one or other of the villages dotted about below the "Inn at the Top." Any one who has read "All Creatures Great and Small" will be familiar with the ways of the Dales farmers who visit the inn on a regular social basis. Then there are the seasonal tourists and fell walkers who come and go.
There are lots of background details about the inn itself and the many continuing problems this young couple have in order to keep the inn open. These difficulties are intertwined among all the tales describing the personal characters of the individuals who are regulars. You have to read the book to appreciate both the humour and the more "touching" personal stories.
There are many dangers involved in living in such a bleak and remote place and the farmers have hard lives coping with in winter, desperate conditions. They will risk their lives to search and rescue their sheep.
The author and his wife encounter many traumatic and dangerous incidents of their own too. Towards the end of the book the author writes so much about the frightening and dangerous effect that snow has on their inn and their lives.
Writing a review about this book has not been easy for there is much to take in. It is a compelling read though with fascinating content and I found it difficult to tear myself away. The sudden ending feels like an anticlimax and disappoints in the abrupt way it is dealt with but I could understand why. This book is highly recommended if you like stories that deal with characters rather than plot.
Profile Image for Stephen.
2,181 reviews464 followers
April 27, 2017
Didnt enjoy this book thought I would though, maybe it was the writing style and found the book overall not to stand out.
Profile Image for Caroline Southgate.
126 reviews2 followers
August 19, 2018
Gave up, just could not get into it. Tried really hard but mind kept wandering so I knew it was not the book for me
Profile Image for Andrew.
630 reviews4 followers
February 15, 2015
The book had a promising opening with a witty introduction by Gervase Phinn. The way in which Neil & Sue Found themselves running the Inn saw the introduction of the two dodgy owners of the Inn. There is some carefully observed comparison between life in this remote corner of Yorkshire and the more urban lifestyle of other places.

This book was not what I expected. The anecdotes relating to the Inn and its customers and characters did not make up as much of the story as I had expected. However, this does not mean that it is not worth reading.

There are some interesting observations of the social changes which were happening both at the time of writing and looking back over the history since the Inn was built. The history of the old drove routes, the changes in land ownership and the effects of the Enclosure Acts. More recently the growth of the shooting estates and the affect this has had on access and traditional farming.


The final third of the book is somewhat long and drawn out, covering the long lonely winter at the Inn. It was at this point that I decided the book is only 'OK', rather than good.
Profile Image for Dunkthebiscuit Kendrick.
24 reviews6 followers
January 21, 2018
This book, while maybe not as funny as intended, gives an intimate view of a way of life - Yorkshire sheep farming - that was becoming precarious even in the late 70s. For that alone it is worth reading.

The author and his wife became landlords of the highest pub in Britain - the Tan Inn (though he never names it, nor any of the surrounding towns or farms) - in time to survive the brutal winter of '79, where they were frequently iced and snowed in for weeks at a time, sometimes with punters who'd only dropped in for a pint and ended up staying for a fortnight. With no heating other than the main fireplace, a dodgy generator, a septic tank and a ram pump to get water from a nearby stream, they did not have much fun. This story is the final third of the book and, for me, was the most compelling part. I love my native county, and I love the sheer brutal beauty of it, but I could never live the winters like this.
Profile Image for Roxanne Hawkin.
30 reviews
May 17, 2021
Saw this book for sale in a pub in the Dales and bought it expecting something akin to The Yorkshire Shepherdess - but was rather disappointed.
Rather than it being a story about their year running this pub on top of the moors - it was more about the characters in the area, the history of the Yorkshire Dales, farming practices, annual festivals in the area, etc, etc.
Whilst this is very interesting and some was quite fascinating, humorous and also informative I also found it got a bit long-winded and tedious at times.
I enjoyed the bits about their actual day to day experiences of running the pub - but these were few and far between.
It also felt like the author was trying too hard - too many overly descriptive sentences with unnecessary flowery language. It felt like he’d written the book then gone back with a thesaurus to put in as much little-used and cumbersome vocabulary as he could, for example - one sentence which stands out in my memory: “Such pusillanimous prevarication was not for me.”
I think the book could have done with some heavy handed editing to be honest. It has the makings of a good book - with a fascinating subject matter - but sadly spoilt by the writing style. I enjoyed the last 3 chapters, about how they endured a frozen winter, snowed in for much of a 4 month long period, and left by the pub owners with no hot water, heating, means of communication or any basic assistance with getting through the winter, the most. This bit felt the most personal and real.
Lastly, I have a big gripe - why does the author refuse to name real place names in the book? It comes across like he’s telling some imaginary story about some made up place because he never mentions the names of villages or towns in the area throughout the story - preferring to refer to them as “the village to the west of the river at the foot of the dale”. It just makes it so cumbersome to read - and given a lot of the book is about actual history and mining/farming/ practices in the Yorkshire Dales - naming the places talked about seems not only desirable but entirely necessary.
As it happens I actually bought his second book at the same time - Pigs Might Fly - so I guess I shall have to read that one too and see if it is equally as annoying in this regard.
Profile Image for Caroline Berry.
66 reviews
April 4, 2016
I bought a signed copy of this book and the sequel in a lovely wee gift shop in Muker (in the Dale - Swaledale - from which the road to the Inn At The Top begins its ascent) whilst on holiday in the area, so naturally holds a special place in my reading history, given the fond memories I have. And whilst it's no blockbuster or page-turner, it's a bucolic tale of life as an innkeeper in a remote rural farming community that both warms you to the people and place being described at the same time as being a salutary tale that will prevent all but the hardiest of souls to consider being a pub landlord as an occupation - even in less remote circumstances! Witty, informative, warm and beautifully told, this is a splendid read!
Profile Image for Laura.
560 reviews7 followers
February 18, 2017
I picked this up from the library and then read the less than glowing reviews on here and was a bit put off. But having worked for a weekend (all I could manage so far away from civilisation) I was still interested enough to give this book a go. I'm glad I did. I love reading about the local area, with a bit of history as well as stories of the weird and wonderful characters who popped in the pub. It was also fun to read about the 70s and realise not much has changed! I know for sure I couldn't survive a winter Up there! Great read.
Profile Image for Ape.
1,979 reviews38 followers
February 25, 2021
In the late 1970s Neil Hanson and his wife took on employment as landlord and landlady at "the Inn at the top", a remote inn at the very top of the high hills of the Yorkshire Dales, in fact the highest pub in England. We all know it's the Tan Hill Inn, but what I didn't understand was why throughout the book he refusses to name anything, be it the inn, the local villages or towns. Nothing is named, but why? It's like he goes over to a town to see this massive horse festival. Well it's Appleby, why not just say so? Why not say it's Tan Hill Inn?

Anyhoo... whatever the reason, on a bit of an impulse they decide to take on the contract and end up running the pub for almost a year I think. The pub is owned by a couple of dodgy, tight fisted Geordies, and this being back in the day pre health and safety they get away with all kinds of shocking behaviour, including removing the boiler in autumn and not returning all winter. So no heating all winter. Which would be bad enough expect they're there through one of the worst winters in decades. Snowdrifts blow in through key holes. Toilet bowls freeze over. The generators stop working as the petrol freezes. My other question throughout this end section, which after several months sees them handing in their notice, is why did they stay up there throughout the winter in such conditions, cut off for weeks on end. There were several times when they got down the valley for supplies and yet they went back. Why?

I don't think I'd be cut out for that life. Despite pub licensing laws, it's the 70s, they're remote, and basically they open at 7 am, shut at 2 am... every day throughout the summer. It's just relentless. How do you have a life? How do you even get enough sleep? I'm not surprised they didn't stay there long term.

Anyway, the book is about their experiences, the characters they meet (sometimes with a slight patronising tone as though farmers and people from the countryside are another species) and the history of the inn and the area, which was certainly one of the more interesting parts.
Profile Image for Hayley Richardson.
82 reviews2 followers
March 12, 2021
‘Seven days later, having already climbed more mountains and crossed more dales than Julie Andrews ever managed in The Sound of Music, we found ourselves driving up an apparently endless road, cloud down around our ears, rain and wind lashing the surrounding bleak and barren fells.’

I bought this book back in Oct 2020 after I had made my -god knows what numbered- visit to Tan Hill, the highest pub in Britain. I always enjoyed going as a child on family holidays and last year was the first time that I ever walked there from our Yurt. This book is tales from that very pub, from the eyes of the landlord in the 70’s.

The book was so funny, educational and amazingly rewritten. Sometimes you’re head-in-hands embarrassed for the poor couple, sometimes you’re shocked beyond belief and sometimes it’s just down right hilarious! The stories are all completely true, and range from olden day bar fights, to nudist customers to the landlord walking in on a deaf customer applying pile ointment…

However, as well as the ‘silly’ stories, there is a lot to learn too. It told me things about the Yorkshire Dales I never knew and for the most part, it’s really interesting!

I definitely recommend, especially if you’re from near the Yorkshire Dales or planning on visiting there (and if you are, you need to stop off at the famous Tan Hill pub!)

4/5 from me!

‘And had a sheep been killed by a lightening strike or similar Act of God, I could think of at least one of our regulars who would have been straight round to the parish church to file a compensation claim with God’s representative on Earth.’
280 reviews2 followers
April 13, 2025
I expected a little more from this - whilst there were a couple of interesting anecdotes and an interesting account of what it is like to spend a winter isolated up on the high moors of the Yorkshire Dales, the majority was a incoherent mix of descriptions of daily life and pen portraits of the local characters. I found the decision to avoid using any place names (he does not even give the Inn it's real name, which is a bit ridiculous when there is only one "Highest Pub in Britain") disorientating and took away from any sense of this being a history of the area. Add to this the fact that they only run the pub for one season (at least in this book - I see there is a sequel, which I won't read) and there's less in here that I had anticipated. The author is also not as funny as he thinks he is.
842 reviews3 followers
May 2, 2024
A charismatic depiction of life as a landlord in the highest pub in England. The author colourfully depicts the bleakness of the remote Yorkshire Dales location, the hardy sheep, and the seasonal variations of pub visitors. He brings additional interesting detail by describing the social evolution of the area - the sheep fairs, impact of the miners’ strike and Yorkshire Ripper to name a few.

Although some of the anecdotes made me laugh, in general the author’s tone is somewhat grumpy and he complains a lot about the local farmers, the hikers, campers and pub owners. It’s clear this is meant for tongue-in-cheek humour, but it does lend a sour tone to the book. After all, the Inn itself is very cool and unusual, and it would have been great to read more about the joyous side of that.
918 reviews5 followers
October 9, 2017
This book turned out to be a lot different to my initial expectation of it. I had anticipated a light hearted telling of stories of life in a country pub, with lots of quirky characters, along the lines of Chris Stewart’s Spanish adventures. Whilst there is some of that, this is a more serious book overall, telling us the social history of the area and highlighting many of the problems of the people living there, particularly the hardships suffered during the winter months. It was never less than interesting, but lacked pace and storytelling. I was quite irritated by the rather coy way the author never revealed place names.
145 reviews1 follower
March 31, 2025
This was an amusing, well written book. You’ve got to hand it to the author and his wife who endured a year, including the dreadful winter of 79/80, running the highest pub in Britain. Antiquated buildings, stingy owners, rats and god-awful weather were just a few of their problems.
If I have one complaint, it’s the weird decision to anonymise the pub and all the surrounding place names. Why? There’s only one highest pub in Britain and it’s the Tan Hill Inn near Richmond. What did this decision achieve? The strangest bit for me is when the author describes a visit to the horse fair which is famous for being known as the Appleby Horse Fair but he never mentions the town name!
Profile Image for Myra King.
Author 11 books23 followers
July 10, 2021
Really enjoyed this (although I question the distances people drove. I refuse to believe it took an hour to drive there from the nearest town).
The author irked me a bit, I most certainly would never be friends with someone so sanctimonious. But I loved the other characters. I still think of this book when I fill a plate with "farmer's portions".
I would read this book while doing "digestion yoga" after dinner, and it certainly made the hours more enjoyable.
52 reviews
July 23, 2025
Although this book was interesting, it flitted from memoir to social history, anecdote of Dales characters, and meteorological storytelling. It provides insight to a pretty unique way of life but it could have been done in a more lighthearted and less tedious way. It would have greatly improved it if any place names (although not difficult to guess if you're familiar with the area) had been included - for something so anchored in real life this seemed quite an oversight.
205 reviews
October 14, 2018
Nope - did not like this book. I have been to the Inn at the top and I love the Yorkshire dales so I was really looking forward to this. Unfortunately the author has made the locals appear almost like caricatures and I didn't feel he was respectful - I felt he was laughing at rather than laughing with.
61 reviews
February 18, 2023
This book couldn't decide what it wanted to be history/travelogue or quirky comedic memoir and in the end does neither well. Some parts were quite interesting but some were deadly boring and others over the top. It was hard to believe all that was about a year of running a pub. They didn't last long in the end...Could have been very good but ended up being a bit of a slog.
2 reviews
November 24, 2020
It's interesting, a bit quirky, but not a laugh a minute. It's very easy to read, but does repeat itself (often a paragraph apart). I enjoyed it, but no anecdote really stuck, and I didn't learn anything.
Profile Image for Malise.
247 reviews51 followers
June 5, 2025
was a semi interesting read but as someone who works in hospitality I wanted Neil to lay down the gossip about the most absurd things customers are out here doing… not chatting about the railway lines
Profile Image for Rachel Green.
85 reviews3 followers
August 12, 2018
A most enjoyable read - full of fascinating facts, observations, characters & witty comments!
Profile Image for Tracy.
615 reviews1 follower
September 26, 2018
I wanted to appreciate this more than I did. The voice of the storyteller seems to patronise the local characters rather than bring their unique behaviour to the page with gentleness and kindness.
176 reviews1 follower
January 1, 2022
Very good book. Unbelievable the conditions that this couple had to endure. The weather couldn’t be helped but the inn seemed to be practically falling down around them!
602 reviews18 followers
September 12, 2022
Like a lot of the reviews a little disappointing. Not as amusing as expected. I also thought they spent number of years there, not just one so more a history book on the area
Profile Image for Emma.
166 reviews1 follower
May 12, 2024
It was a nice insight into the Tan hill workings. Its obviously not a hook you can sit and read for hours though. Its just one to pick up as and when
Profile Image for Genevieve Helene.
183 reviews
September 13, 2024
A thoroughly enjoyable read, very amusing and with some interesting information about the history of life at the top of the Yorkshire Dales.
326 reviews
January 16, 2020
Neil and Sue spend a year managing the highest pub in Britain - good story
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews

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