I loved this book. author Bill Bennett is a funny, charismatic and a likeable guy. Easy to follow and well written.
I was beginning to notice that some pilgrims on the Camino seemed to be fixated with getting to the next village or town, or completing the day’s stage, to the exclusion of everything else. They didn’t indulge in small talk, they didn’t stop in the villages, they certainly didn’t go into any of the churches or check out the monuments. They walked. They walked fast, refusing to be distracted by the magnificence of the history and culture around them.
Each town had its must-stay albergue, usually determined by posts and reviews on Camino online forums. Many pilgrims had computer print-out lists of these albergues, and I discovered they would often plan their itineraries days ahead so that they can stay at these celebrated places. There were about half a dozen such albergues on the Camino, yet I didn’t have a clue which they were or where they were – I just knew that some pilgrims got into a cold sweat when they thought they might miss out on a bed if they arrived late. This to me was muddle-headed. It placed an immediate tension on the day’s walk. It affected the thinking of the pilgrim from the moment they woke up. I must leave early, I must walk fast today so that I get to the cool albergue in time, otherwise I won’t get a bed. For the whole day, they’re walking in fear. Fear of missing out. Fear of not being one of the lucky ones that gets to stay in the albergue that everyone’s been talking about. Fear of not having that great Camino experience.
I began to learn that none of us should pass judgment, because every experience is different for every pilgrim. No one experience is definitive. As well, I began to realise there was more to learn by not following the throng – by following my own heartbeat, even if that meant I ended up at a place others might consider unfit for pilgrim habitation. So what if the bathroom is faulty? So what if the hospitaleros don’t turn on the heat at night because they want to save on the power bill? There’s more to be learnt in adversity than there is in comfort.
True pilgrims don’t judge. They accept. They don’t put themselves above anyone else by regarding that person as somehow lesser. I recalled the dictionary definition of a pilgrim: A traveller from afar who is on a journey to a holy place.
The first stage from St. Jean is representative of Life; full of highs and lows, joy and despair, strong emotions. The second stage is the Meseta, which is Death. Vast, limitless, serene and transcendent. The third stage, into Santiago, is Rebirth. After your life, after your death, as you reach Santiago, you are reborn into a new You.
Whatever fear I faced, I realised the anxiety over that fear was worse than the fear itself.
For me, the Meseta proved to be transcendent. I loved its clear straight lines. I loved its expansiveness. I loved its solitude. It was the place where I came closest to the true nature of the Camino. It’s where I felt the presence of energies and influences beyond my understanding. It had laid me bare. And in that naked state, as though I were a new-born, I’d begun to believe there could be a God. Because that’s when the Camino really started to work its magic on me.
I also observed the way they greeted each other, their elation at meeting someone they obviously hadn’t seen in a long time; their camaraderie, their strong ties, their social groupings. I noticed that they all looked happy. They all glowed, with some strange ethereal light. They all seemed imbued with a spiritual energy.
Before I started the Camino, there were a few things I was looking forward to – climbing over the Pyrenees, walking across the Meseta, and sleeping in the monastery in Samos.