Okay, so the RTR was a special place to the people who frequented it. We get it. Most people have had their own such special places at one point or another, for whatever reason. But reading this book was a bit like hearing someone laugh interminably at some joke that you have no hope of understanding, because "you had to be there." Made worse by the celebrity ass-kissing.
Towards the very end of the book, there is an almost throwaway sentence about how the government crackdown on 80% write-offs of business lunches in the late 1980s was a big blow to the RTR's bottom line. This - again, at the END of the book - tells me more than anything else here about the RTR, what it had become in the end, and the astonishingly privileged viewpoint of its author (at least during the mid-1990s when this was written).
I was expecting some amount of "Oh, here's yet another not-particularly-funny-or-insightful anecdote about my famous friends" from this book, but not for almost the *entire* book to that, ad nauseum. One gets very little here about the RTR's actual history or food. The brief sections that delve into the larger context in which the RTR was successful for so long, and later ultimately lost its footing, are the best, but they are few and one must get through so much fluff to find them.