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Seven Seasons in Siena: My Quixotic Quest for Acceptance Among Tuscany's Proudest People
Siena seems at first glance a typical Italian city: within its venerable medieval walls the citizens sport designer clothes, wield digital phones, and prize their dazzling local cuisine. But unlike neighboring Florence, Siena is still deeply rooted in ancient traditions--chiefly the spectacular Palio, in which seventeen independent societies known as "contrade" vie for bragging rights in an annual bareback horse race around the central piazza.
Into this strange, closed world steps Robert Rodi. A Chicago writer with few friends in town and a shaky command of conversational Italian, he couldn't be more out of place. Yet something about the sense of belonging radiating from the ritual-obsessed Sienese excites him, and draws him back to witness firsthand how their passionate brand of community extends beyond the Palio into the entire calendar year. Smitten, Rodi undertakes a plan to insinuate himself into this body politic, learn their ways, and win their acceptance.
"Seven Seasons in Siena" is the story of Rodi's love affair with the people of Siena--and of his awkward, heartfelt, intermittently successful, occasionally disastrous attempts to become a naturalized member of the Noble Contrada of the Caterpillar. It won't be easy. As one of the locals points out, someone who's American, gay, and a writer is the equivalent of a triple unicorn in this corner of Tuscany. But like a jockey in the Palio outlasting the competition in the home stretch, Rodi is determined to wear down all resistance. By immersing himself in the life of the contrada over seven visits at different times of the year--working in their kitchens, competing in their athletic events, and mastering the tangled politics of their various feuds and alliances--the ultimate outsider slowly begins to find his way into the hearts of this proud and remarkable people.
By turns hilarious and heartwarming, and redolent with the flavor of the Tuscan countryside, "Seven Seasons in Siena" opens a window on daily life in one of the most magical regions in all of Italy--revealing the joys to be found when we stop being spectators and start taking an active part in life's rich pageant.
Into this strange, closed world steps Robert Rodi. A Chicago writer with few friends in town and a shaky command of conversational Italian, he couldn't be more out of place. Yet something about the sense of belonging radiating from the ritual-obsessed Sienese excites him, and draws him back to witness firsthand how their passionate brand of community extends beyond the Palio into the entire calendar year. Smitten, Rodi undertakes a plan to insinuate himself into this body politic, learn their ways, and win their acceptance.
"Seven Seasons in Siena" is the story of Rodi's love affair with the people of Siena--and of his awkward, heartfelt, intermittently successful, occasionally disastrous attempts to become a naturalized member of the Noble Contrada of the Caterpillar. It won't be easy. As one of the locals points out, someone who's American, gay, and a writer is the equivalent of a triple unicorn in this corner of Tuscany. But like a jockey in the Palio outlasting the competition in the home stretch, Rodi is determined to wear down all resistance. By immersing himself in the life of the contrada over seven visits at different times of the year--working in their kitchens, competing in their athletic events, and mastering the tangled politics of their various feuds and alliances--the ultimate outsider slowly begins to find his way into the hearts of this proud and remarkable people.
By turns hilarious and heartwarming, and redolent with the flavor of the Tuscan countryside, "Seven Seasons in Siena" opens a window on daily life in one of the most magical regions in all of Italy--revealing the joys to be found when we stop being spectators and start taking an active part in life's rich pageant.
273 pages, Kindle Edition
First published June 21, 2011
55 people are currently reading
206 people want to read
About the author
Robert Rodi
210 books123 followersRobert was born in Chicago in the conformist 1950s, grew up in the insurrectionist 1960s, came of age in the hedonist 1970s, and went to work in the elitist 1980s. This roller-coaster ride has left him with a distinct aversion to isms of any kind; it also gave him an ear for hypocrisy, cant, and platitudes that allowed him, in the 1990s, to become a much-lauded social satirist.
After seven acclaimed novels set in the gay milieu, Robert grew restless for new challenges — which he found in activities as wide-ranging as publishing nonfiction, writing comic books, launching a literary-criticism blog, and taking to the stage (as a spoken-word performer, jazz singer, and rock-and-roll front man).
In 2011, excited by the rise of digital e-books, he returned to his first love, publishing new fiction inspired by the work of Alfred Hitchcock. He also organized the republishing of his seminal gay novels under the banner Robert Rodi Essentials.
Robert still resides in Chicago, in a century-old Queen Anne house with his partner Jeffrey Smith and a constantly shifting number of dogs.
.
German version: Robert Rodi wurde 1956 in einem Vorort von Chicago geboren. Im Alter von 22 schloss er sein Philosophie-Studium ab. Schon vorher beschäftigte er sich mit Comedy. Sein erster eigener Roman, "Fag Hag" aus dem Jahr 1991 war ein großer Erfolg. Es folgten mehrere andere komische Romane, zahlreiche Kurzgeschichten und Sketche. Robert lebt mit Partner und Hund in Chicago.
After seven acclaimed novels set in the gay milieu, Robert grew restless for new challenges — which he found in activities as wide-ranging as publishing nonfiction, writing comic books, launching a literary-criticism blog, and taking to the stage (as a spoken-word performer, jazz singer, and rock-and-roll front man).
In 2011, excited by the rise of digital e-books, he returned to his first love, publishing new fiction inspired by the work of Alfred Hitchcock. He also organized the republishing of his seminal gay novels under the banner Robert Rodi Essentials.
Robert still resides in Chicago, in a century-old Queen Anne house with his partner Jeffrey Smith and a constantly shifting number of dogs.
.
German version: Robert Rodi wurde 1956 in einem Vorort von Chicago geboren. Im Alter von 22 schloss er sein Philosophie-Studium ab. Schon vorher beschäftigte er sich mit Comedy. Sein erster eigener Roman, "Fag Hag" aus dem Jahr 1991 war ein großer Erfolg. Es folgten mehrere andere komische Romane, zahlreiche Kurzgeschichten und Sketche. Robert lebt mit Partner und Hund in Chicago.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews
February 18, 2018
This is a decent book for people who are already interested in the Palio and in Siena's history. It follows the American author's attempt, after witnessing a Palio first hand, to inject himself into the life and culture of the city generally, and the Bruco (caterpillar) contrada in particular.
Rodi wanders from contrada event to contrada event, observing the various traditions and ceremonies that take place after a Palio victory, in preparation for a new race, and in the quiet times in between the stomping hooves and gladiatorial spectacle.
He provides a light treatment of the history of Siena, and the permutations of its famous horserace. He discusses the ancient enmities and alliances amongst the various contrade, and offers some genuinely fascinating insights into what modern Sienese feel about this ancient set of traditions.
I wish the author had struggled a little more to hold up Siena as the subject of the book, rather than his personal feelings about his acceptance (or lack thereof) within the group as an American outsider. There were lots of envious descriptions about Italian clothing and food. Lots of wondering about what the people around him think of him. A fair amount of self-pity about not being accepted.
On the whole, though, this book was helpful in augmenting my understanding of the Palio, as well as the history and culture that gave birth to it. I'd recommend the book to anyone who's interested in the subject.
Rodi wanders from contrada event to contrada event, observing the various traditions and ceremonies that take place after a Palio victory, in preparation for a new race, and in the quiet times in between the stomping hooves and gladiatorial spectacle.
He provides a light treatment of the history of Siena, and the permutations of its famous horserace. He discusses the ancient enmities and alliances amongst the various contrade, and offers some genuinely fascinating insights into what modern Sienese feel about this ancient set of traditions.
I wish the author had struggled a little more to hold up Siena as the subject of the book, rather than his personal feelings about his acceptance (or lack thereof) within the group as an American outsider. There were lots of envious descriptions about Italian clothing and food. Lots of wondering about what the people around him think of him. A fair amount of self-pity about not being accepted.
On the whole, though, this book was helpful in augmenting my understanding of the Palio, as well as the history and culture that gave birth to it. I'd recommend the book to anyone who's interested in the subject.
July 12, 2011
This was an enjoyable book about the community and tradition that exists in Siena, a small city in the Tuscany region of Italy. I picked it up based solely on the fact that when in Tuscany a couple of years ago, I fell in love with Siena.
The author, Robert Rodi, also fell in love with Siena, but took things a little further….he came away with an exuberant obsession with a Sienese tradition known as the Palio – seventeen unique sections of the city take part in a yearly bareback horse race that takes place in the central square. Add to that the memory of sitting in that very piazza with my mother, eating Panforte (a delicious almost-fruitcake that Siena is renowned for), and you have the recipe for a book that makes me smile as I read it. You don’t have to have visited Siena to read this book to enjoy it: all you need is to respect and envy a city where tradition ties each of them so strongly together…where their very sense of community brings them happiness.
I now want to go back to Tuscany…a thought I have at least a few times each week!
The author, Robert Rodi, also fell in love with Siena, but took things a little further….he came away with an exuberant obsession with a Sienese tradition known as the Palio – seventeen unique sections of the city take part in a yearly bareback horse race that takes place in the central square. Add to that the memory of sitting in that very piazza with my mother, eating Panforte (a delicious almost-fruitcake that Siena is renowned for), and you have the recipe for a book that makes me smile as I read it. You don’t have to have visited Siena to read this book to enjoy it: all you need is to respect and envy a city where tradition ties each of them so strongly together…where their very sense of community brings them happiness.
I now want to go back to Tuscany…a thought I have at least a few times each week!
March 22, 2012
If you’ve ever been on a trip and felt an instant connection to a place or culture, then you will understand how Robert Rodi became obsessed with Siena and the crazy horse race that’s been held there for some 7 centuries called the Palio.
The Palio is just like the Kentucky Derby except that it involves fiercely competitive city clubs who’ll do anything to win. It takes place in the crowded city center, and, best of all, no saddles on the horses. It’s pretty much chaos.
Rodi’s quest is to become part of one of these close knit clubs . He learns some Italian, volunteers for any job (cutting hundreds of loaves of bread, opening an equally large number of wine bottles) and learns the complicated history and traditions of his adopted contrada.
What the lucky reader gets is a glimpse into an amazing culture that has endured and flourished for centuries.
The Palio is just like the Kentucky Derby except that it involves fiercely competitive city clubs who’ll do anything to win. It takes place in the crowded city center, and, best of all, no saddles on the horses. It’s pretty much chaos.
Rodi’s quest is to become part of one of these close knit clubs . He learns some Italian, volunteers for any job (cutting hundreds of loaves of bread, opening an equally large number of wine bottles) and learns the complicated history and traditions of his adopted contrada.
What the lucky reader gets is a glimpse into an amazing culture that has endured and flourished for centuries.
September 2, 2014
Rodi has written not so much a travelogue, but a description of his inner journey as he returned again and again to the Italian town with which he fell in love one fateful day in 2003. He writes in an engaging style, unpretentious and concerned more with making one chuckle than gasp. It is a pleasant way to be introduced to what could be described as a exceptionally friendly closed society.
Siena is il Palio - an ancient, semi-annual, bare-back horse race that takes over the town annually (or, to hear Rodi tell it, just about all year). It pits established regions of the town (contrada) against one another, and creates rivalries and alliances and all manner of drama. It's easy to understand why Rodi is so drawn to it, and his contrada of choice, after witnessing their victory on his first visit. Nothing like the height of a family's experience (and the contrada are like enormous families more than they are a mere neighborhood) to draw you in and show you what you're outside of.
Acceptance is a tricky concept. One can infer it to be a positive thing, yet sometimes it's merely apathetic. I won't spoil the outcome for Rodi after his years and years of return trips. I will describe, however, that he is not a hugely self-confident person. This comes across in the writing (you could say it's a device, really), and maybe it just strikes too close to home for me but I found it grating at times. Difficult to tell a story in the first person and express disappointment without self-pity, I suppose. And, as I say: I may have identified too much.
But it's a good read, well-told, and an excellent glimpse at fascinating people. Rodi may have been on the outside looking in, but he does so with gleeful insight.
Siena is il Palio - an ancient, semi-annual, bare-back horse race that takes over the town annually (or, to hear Rodi tell it, just about all year). It pits established regions of the town (contrada) against one another, and creates rivalries and alliances and all manner of drama. It's easy to understand why Rodi is so drawn to it, and his contrada of choice, after witnessing their victory on his first visit. Nothing like the height of a family's experience (and the contrada are like enormous families more than they are a mere neighborhood) to draw you in and show you what you're outside of.
Acceptance is a tricky concept. One can infer it to be a positive thing, yet sometimes it's merely apathetic. I won't spoil the outcome for Rodi after his years and years of return trips. I will describe, however, that he is not a hugely self-confident person. This comes across in the writing (you could say it's a device, really), and maybe it just strikes too close to home for me but I found it grating at times. Difficult to tell a story in the first person and express disappointment without self-pity, I suppose. And, as I say: I may have identified too much.
But it's a good read, well-told, and an excellent glimpse at fascinating people. Rodi may have been on the outside looking in, but he does so with gleeful insight.
May 21, 2018
I read this book specifically because I will be going to Siana in the next month and had heard about the Palio. I've been interested in it from my last visit there. I think it is a great way for Americans or other foreigners who are interested in the Palio specifically to get a better understanding of how it works. It certainly gave me a lot of insight.
February 21, 2018
I like to think of myself as a traveler rather than a tourist. When I visit a place, I spend as much time as I can exploring how people live rather than just “seeing the sights.” So, when Seven Seasons in Siena by Robert Rodi crossed my Kindle, I was really interested.
Siena is one of my favorite places. It is a medieval Tuscan city, complete with winding streets that travel up and down the hills of the town. The absence of cars allows visitors to imagine how things might have been throughout its history. It has a long history of democratic government and has avoided both external pressures from nearby kingdoms, and major internal conflicts.
Siena is probably best known for Il Palio- a horserace held twice a year, in July and August. But this is no ordinary horserace. The race takes place around the edge of the Piazza del Campo, Siena’s main square, which is shaped kind of as a clam shell, with one side higher than the other. For visitors, the Palio is a celebration of medieval spectacle, complete with costumed flag jugglers. Then there is the excitement of the race; three laps around the dirt covered course, jockeys riding bareback, navigating two 90 degree turns on each lap. But for Senese, the significance of the race is much deeper. And that is what Mr. Rodi explores in this wonderful book.
Robert Rodi first visits Siena during the Palio, and immediately falls in love with the city, as do many. But he has a local friend to guide him – Dario. Through Dario’s eyes and invitation Mr. Rodi gets a glimpse at what the Palio means to the residents of Siena. That is because Dario is from the Caterpillar contrade, or section of town, and it is Caterpillar’s horse that has just won the race. So, Robert Rodi is invited to celebration organized by the residents of the contrade that few visitors get to experience. This gives him the impetus and desire to explore the cultural significance of the Palio and its role in the history of Siena.
Robert returns to Siena six times, both during future Palios and at times, when the city is considerably calmer. He spends time in the Caterpillar contrade, getting to know the people who live there, and volunteering with the groups that run events before and after the race, keeping traditions alive. While Dario introduces Robert to life in the contrade, it is Robert’s sincerity and perseverance that gains him the respect of the locals and also gives him an insight to their history and cultural life.
Robert explores the role of the Palio in keeping peace in Siena. For centuries the race has provided an acceptable outlet for internecine rivalries. It provides a competition with rules, both official and sub-rosa, and an outlet for passions. The race and the seventeen contradi of the city also provide a sense of identity and belonging for residents of all ages, allowing connections that go back centuries. These ties play a role in making Siena one of Italy’s longest running democratic governments.
This book touched my heart. On my first trip to Italy, 20 years ago, we visited Siena during the week following the August Palio. We were sitting at a café in the Piazza del Campo when a parade came by. It was a post-race celebration by the winning contrade. No corporate sponsors, just people who had put together costumes and floats celebrating their horse and jockey, and poking fun at their losing rivals. They distributed wine and panetone to those watching from the sidelines.
Robert’s experiences also reflect how I try to explore when I visit places. Looking to go beyond the tourist experiences, I try to see how people live. What is important to them? What ties them together? I aspire to do what Robert Rodi has succeeded at in the book, and I am both appreciative and jealous of his experiences. Mostly, I am happy that he has shared his time in Siena, and has done so with such fine writing.
Siena is one of my favorite places. It is a medieval Tuscan city, complete with winding streets that travel up and down the hills of the town. The absence of cars allows visitors to imagine how things might have been throughout its history. It has a long history of democratic government and has avoided both external pressures from nearby kingdoms, and major internal conflicts.
Siena is probably best known for Il Palio- a horserace held twice a year, in July and August. But this is no ordinary horserace. The race takes place around the edge of the Piazza del Campo, Siena’s main square, which is shaped kind of as a clam shell, with one side higher than the other. For visitors, the Palio is a celebration of medieval spectacle, complete with costumed flag jugglers. Then there is the excitement of the race; three laps around the dirt covered course, jockeys riding bareback, navigating two 90 degree turns on each lap. But for Senese, the significance of the race is much deeper. And that is what Mr. Rodi explores in this wonderful book.
Robert Rodi first visits Siena during the Palio, and immediately falls in love with the city, as do many. But he has a local friend to guide him – Dario. Through Dario’s eyes and invitation Mr. Rodi gets a glimpse at what the Palio means to the residents of Siena. That is because Dario is from the Caterpillar contrade, or section of town, and it is Caterpillar’s horse that has just won the race. So, Robert Rodi is invited to celebration organized by the residents of the contrade that few visitors get to experience. This gives him the impetus and desire to explore the cultural significance of the Palio and its role in the history of Siena.
Robert returns to Siena six times, both during future Palios and at times, when the city is considerably calmer. He spends time in the Caterpillar contrade, getting to know the people who live there, and volunteering with the groups that run events before and after the race, keeping traditions alive. While Dario introduces Robert to life in the contrade, it is Robert’s sincerity and perseverance that gains him the respect of the locals and also gives him an insight to their history and cultural life.
Robert explores the role of the Palio in keeping peace in Siena. For centuries the race has provided an acceptable outlet for internecine rivalries. It provides a competition with rules, both official and sub-rosa, and an outlet for passions. The race and the seventeen contradi of the city also provide a sense of identity and belonging for residents of all ages, allowing connections that go back centuries. These ties play a role in making Siena one of Italy’s longest running democratic governments.
This book touched my heart. On my first trip to Italy, 20 years ago, we visited Siena during the week following the August Palio. We were sitting at a café in the Piazza del Campo when a parade came by. It was a post-race celebration by the winning contrade. No corporate sponsors, just people who had put together costumes and floats celebrating their horse and jockey, and poking fun at their losing rivals. They distributed wine and panetone to those watching from the sidelines.
Robert’s experiences also reflect how I try to explore when I visit places. Looking to go beyond the tourist experiences, I try to see how people live. What is important to them? What ties them together? I aspire to do what Robert Rodi has succeeded at in the book, and I am both appreciative and jealous of his experiences. Mostly, I am happy that he has shared his time in Siena, and has done so with such fine writing.
May 2, 2019
I read this book while in Siena. It was fun and at times so funny I laughed out. The central premise is interesting - an American who so wants to be accepted that he keeps going back to Siena, leaving family and business affairs behind, in an attempt to reach the goal of becoming part of a particular group there. Toward the end he makes clear that he’s about out of time for this adventure, what with the press of other duties at home, leaving the reader to wonder about the authenticity of the effort. For all his talk of belonging it feels a bit like a box checked so he can write about it and off he goes to the next book project. But I appreciated the window into Il Palio and Sienese life, and the joy that jumps from the pages. The laughs earned this book an extra star.
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January 17, 2020Seven Seasons in Siena is the story of an American writer about his quest to become part of a contrada in Siena.
After he had experienced the Palio in Siena for the first time he decided that he wanted to become a part of the contrada and he returns seven times to ingratiate himself in the community.
I'm a bit of two minds about this book. On the one hand it gave me great pleasure reading about the Palio and I have learned a lot that I did not know before. In this respect I liked the book.
On the other hand, I sometimes found the enormous elaborations about his attempts to become part of the contrada somewhat irritating.
It took me a while to finish the book and I read it in stages.
3 stars because of the interesting descriptions about the Palio and life in the contrade.
After he had experienced the Palio in Siena for the first time he decided that he wanted to become a part of the contrada and he returns seven times to ingratiate himself in the community.
I'm a bit of two minds about this book. On the one hand it gave me great pleasure reading about the Palio and I have learned a lot that I did not know before. In this respect I liked the book.
On the other hand, I sometimes found the enormous elaborations about his attempts to become part of the contrada somewhat irritating.
It took me a while to finish the book and I read it in stages.
3 stars because of the interesting descriptions about the Palio and life in the contrade.
January 31, 2018
I can't even remember buying this one - possibly it was a kindle deal - and it has sat on my kindle for a little while now. Despite only giving it 3 stars, I've really enjoyed the read.
An essay to the author's love of Siena, it's people and the Palio. I also absolutely adore Siena and wish I'd been able to spend as much time as he did there, so sharing his experience was a positive pleasure. Rodi spent his time with the Caterpillar contrada - immersing himself in the people, the politcs, the food, the wine, the coffee.
I want to go back now even more ...
An essay to the author's love of Siena, it's people and the Palio. I also absolutely adore Siena and wish I'd been able to spend as much time as he did there, so sharing his experience was a positive pleasure. Rodi spent his time with the Caterpillar contrada - immersing himself in the people, the politcs, the food, the wine, the coffee.
I want to go back now even more ...
July 20, 2023
This is a fun memoir that hops through the author's various visits to Siena, trying to learn more about and become part of the culture. Having visited Siena for nearly a week in grad school, I felt a strong connection to the book and author. It was an amazing place to visit and my favorite of our (admittedly few) stops in Italy. If you're curious about Sienese culture, particularly surrounding the Palio, or just entertaining travel memoirs, give this a try. Note: there was a bit of profanity, but it wasn't too pervasive - just something I tend to notice and like to give people a heads up on.
January 31, 2018
Sucked in by the sibilant alliteratives in the title, and already in love with Siena, I was prepared to love this book. The author's "all about me" attitude struck me as odious. He's the poster boy for "Wherever you go, there you are," and that's not the kind of travel writing that interests me. If you're looking for a mannered, self-deprecation-masking-self-infatuation, book, this one's for you.
In case you haven't guessed, I only made it to page 72 before putting the book down.
In case you haven't guessed, I only made it to page 72 before putting the book down.
August 20, 2018
This books is excellent if you're looking for an in-depth look into the culture of the contrade (neighborhoods) in Siena. I enjoyed it because I studied in Siena for four months, and felt a connection to the subject matter, culture, and language. If you like learning and/or Siena, you will probably like it also. Sometimes, in my opinion, Rodi talks a little bit too much about his own feelings of inadequacy and how he doesn't feel accepted.
December 26, 2021
I adored every page. Robert Rodi’s narration of his days in Siena is in every way a delight and so many of the minutest details resonated with me (from the inherent hilarity of Poggibonsi to the minute-by-minute description of witnessing the Palio from the center of the melée that is the Piazza del Campo). The depths to which the contrade and Palio influence civic life in Siena is difficult to truly understand unless you have lived it and Rodi’s articulation of it is a triumph.
January 23, 2020
Robert Rodi does a great job of describing his efforts to become a part of one of the seventeen independent "states" that make up Siena. He has an old friend, Dario, who offers the introductions he needs to become known in the Palio, as an aspiring Caterpillar. His descriptions of the people of Siena are interesting and his struggles with learning the Italian language are familiar.
May 18, 2018
Really love this guy and his buddy Dario Castagno! Check out all of their books.
March 5, 2021
I just finished this fabulous read, and I highly recommend it to any person that has an interest in Siena and particularly the Palio because, in reality, the city itself is the Palio; the two are inextricable joined, and the two cannot be examined singularly because as Rodi so well writes, the two are really one.
Sure, people can visit Siena on day-trips from Florence as Diane and I have on at least four occasions, once being an overnight visit to see the Palio, which was Onda's victory in '93. And if you read Odi's book, you will realise, as we didn't at that time, that the Palio and the 17 contradas of which the city is divided are far deeper in the society and culture of Siena than simply watching a horse race that takes place in a matter of minutes.
If you can ever attend this fabulous event after this Covid 19 passes, please make every effort to do so.
Sure, people can visit Siena on day-trips from Florence as Diane and I have on at least four occasions, once being an overnight visit to see the Palio, which was Onda's victory in '93. And if you read Odi's book, you will realise, as we didn't at that time, that the Palio and the 17 contradas of which the city is divided are far deeper in the society and culture of Siena than simply watching a horse race that takes place in a matter of minutes.
If you can ever attend this fabulous event after this Covid 19 passes, please make every effort to do so.
April 4, 2024
Siena is amazing
If you love Siena, this provides an amazing feeling of the Palio and you get a feeling of being there.
If you love Siena, this provides an amazing feeling of the Palio and you get a feeling of being there.
December 20, 2011
Guys, I have an obsession with Italy. My husband and I traveled to Rome, Assisi and Venice (plus London) for our honeymoon in 2010. I fell in love and I am anxious to go back. After reading this book, I think I need to add Siena to my list. Robert falls in love with the Tuscan city and its people. He becomes quickly obsessed with the Palio, a bareback horse race that takes place every year between all of the vastly different neighborhoods in Siena. It's an event that no one in the town misses and I can see why. In a typically Italian fashion, there are celebrations and negotiations that take place before the race.
You really get a good sense of the town and how important the tradition of both the neighborhoods and the Palio mean to the people of Siena. I loved it! One thing I will say is that Rodi goes to Siena several times and even though the times are divided up by chapters, it's a little hard to keep track of what was happening when throughout the book. I had to keep backtracking in order to figure out where I was.
This is a great book for those who are looking for a slice of Italian life!
You really get a good sense of the town and how important the tradition of both the neighborhoods and the Palio mean to the people of Siena. I loved it! One thing I will say is that Rodi goes to Siena several times and even though the times are divided up by chapters, it's a little hard to keep track of what was happening when throughout the book. I had to keep backtracking in order to figure out where I was.
This is a great book for those who are looking for a slice of Italian life!
March 3, 2016
In preparation for my honeymoon in Italy, I wanted to read books that would get me in the right frame of mind. We've heard that Siena is a lovelier town than some of its Tuscan neighbors and largely ignored by tourists, so it made its way onto our agenda. I discovered this book while looking for some titles and it seemed destined for me to read. It's an enjoyable account of one man's attempts to become a member of the Caterpillar contrada in Siena. It goes into lots of details about the Palio, the horse race that is still run in Siena every year. I found it amusing and endearing, though a little too singularly focused for my own purposes. However, I did get a lot of insight into the Sienese and it made me very excited to visit soon!
July 9, 2012
The author, an Italian-American journalist from Chicago, falls in love with The Palio, an annual horse race run between the 17 districts or neighborhoods in the Italian city of Siena every June. He travels to Siena and attempts to learn more about it and what it says about the Sienese people in general. My husband and I visited Siena on our honeymoon so it was an interesting topic to read more about for me personally. However, I myself did not care for the author or his sense of humor and how he kept interjecting himself into the story; this dragged the book down, in my opinion. Hence, only 2 stars from me.
December 21, 2012
As someone who spent 2.5 months in Siena, it was fun to get another perspective of the city. I remember joining several contrada events (go Istrice!), and wondering how it would feel to be a part of them. This book captured that feeling perfectly. My only problems with this book were that is was kind of repetitive and the complaints about Rachel got old. I also found the talk about the author's sweating annoying. Otherwise it was an enjoyable read and took me back to the 2 Palii I was able to see. I think I need to plan a return to the city at some point in the near future...
April 6, 2016
Reading is like traveling
Roberto Rodi tries hard to fit; will he achieve to fit in after all? Sometimes he sounds like a 13 year-old new girl figuring out where to sit for lunch at the cafeteria. Other times he sounds like a 25 year old single woman attending her cousin's wedding. This book transports you to Siena, but also through different lives. You will enjoy the descriptions of the different settings. Will you enjoy the narrator's voice? That is another question.
Roberto Rodi tries hard to fit; will he achieve to fit in after all? Sometimes he sounds like a 13 year-old new girl figuring out where to sit for lunch at the cafeteria. Other times he sounds like a 25 year old single woman attending her cousin's wedding. This book transports you to Siena, but also through different lives. You will enjoy the descriptions of the different settings. Will you enjoy the narrator's voice? That is another question.
May 3, 2015
I was interested in reading this book because of my interest in the Palio and it's history. What I got was a story of someone wanting so badly to be a part of one of the communities of Sienna, that it read like stories of his ongoing desperate attempts to insinuate himself into a centuries old tradition.
September 29, 2011
This was a great look inside the contrada system of the Italian town of Siena. I have visited Siena during the weeks preceding the Palio and thought how exciting it would be to see the race itself. Mr. Rodi has convinced me that Siena is worth visiting any time of the year--and that I should seriously look into becoming Italian.
August 25, 2011
Ugh, I did not like this book at all. When an author has to use way too many similes in one paragraph, we're in trouble. I lasted ten pages and then gave up.
October 2, 2011
This book is literally a romp--especially to those who have been to Sienna. For those of you who love good food, travel descriptions and love of everything Italian.
February 28, 2012
While this book provides some interesting history of the people of Siena and the famous palio horse race, I felt like I was reading Mr. Rodi's boring travel journal.
July 25, 2012
A good read before visiting Siena, Italy.
February 24, 2015
A very well done look at Siena's Palio, the twice-a-year horse race to determine bragging right s for one of its 14 neighborhoods.
August 14, 2015
Interesting read. Makes me miss Italy.
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