Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction reveals the secrets of bra couturiers, teaching you what you have always wanted to know about fitting and sewing your own bras. Professional custom bra maker Norma Loehr breaks down the fitting and construction process into simple, easy to follow steps so you can get great results on your bra making projects. With easy-to-follow instructions, color photos, and a guide to sourcing materials, this book has everything you need to make your own professional looking bras in no time at all. Whether you are a home sewer or an aspiring lingerie designer, this book is for you!“Not only does custom bra maker Norma Loehr sew wonderfully, she's smart - so her well thought out and beautifully presented work on bra making has resulted in a book that inspires and educates.”Susan Khalje, Author, Bridal Couture and Linen and Cotton and Contributing Editor for Threads Magazine"I’ve had the privilege of testing Norma’s book before its release, and it’s an absolute must buy for anyone interested in sewing their own bras (seriously, there’s one gem of bridge fitting advice in there alone that’s worth the purchase price!)."Melissa Fehr, Fehrtrade.com
Lots of good information about sewing bras from purchased patterns but there were quite a few times when I wished instructions included some visuals. When there are photos or illustrations, they are very helpful but many sections have no graphics at all.
My disappointment with this book can be summed up in the Introduction on page XI where Loehr reveals that they have no intention of providing drafting information or a pattern for bra construction and instead will only be discussing their preferred construction techniques. To me, this makes the book completely worthless. I really don't understand how this book can be "demystifying" anything if there isn't going to be information on how bra shape or material choice effects the support of the garment. There is a section that goes into what I'll call "fit fixes", but this only goes into changes to the style of bra that Loehr prefers: a kind of non-padded, round cup design which clasps in the back and two over the shoulder straps. There is no real insight given into dealing with push-up bras, padded cups, sports bras, historical cup shapes, strapless designs, alternative strap structures such as t-backs, or anything that significantly strays from what Loehr likes to make. As far as fabric choices go, Loehr prefers stretch fabrics and otherwise tells you to refer to your chosen pattern's instructions.
Which is really what I don't get about the purpose of this book. If I had bought a commercial pattern and was having trouble with the fit, I would buy several other commercial patterns before I'd buy a book like this one, as the price of the book doesn't save me from having to spend money on said patterns. As far as improving my construction technique in making those patterns, there is really nothing in this book that I feel couldn't be found online, especially since Loehr apparently has a blog on this subject (which I am only aware of because it is linked to no less than 5 times in the text) or in one of the general sewing techniques book that I already have.
And that's the cincher to me when buying an instructional text: If I'm having a problem with a technique, would I think to go pull this book down from my shelf before simply googling my issue? With this book, the answer is no, as I don't think the information given would address the problems I'm having as the scope of this book is so narrow. If Loehr had provided drafting instructions or simply their own patterns to work with, renamed this book as a "course book" (something common to sewing), and formatted the book as an instructional on making their preferred bra style; I think the book would be good for early intermediate sewers who have experience with patterns and are interested in getting started in bra construction. Instead, Loehr gave the book a name that implies giving a conceptual level of understanding, which they immediately state they do not intend to provide.
I really don't see how any this would be that hard, as all that would really need to be added to provide readers with the necessary information to make Loehr's preferred bra would be the upper and lower cups pieces graded AA-DD and appropriate band, frame, and bridge sizes. All of which could be provided at the end of text for the reader to trace without having to worry about scaling up the pattern (which is one of the biggest difficulties home sewers can have with garment patterns in books), or providing added scaled pattern pieces. The rest of the information on how to customize fit is already in the book, just not the things needed to get started. And since the book is mostly about Loehr's preferred bra style, relying on third party patterns that might not suit their fabric, cup, or strap preferences risks the information provided not being suitable to the individual sewer's needs and use of the book resulting in more frustration then aid. Since Loehr founded a company called "Orange Lingerie", as stated on the front, I have no doubt that they has access to such pattern pieces and their exclusion is a massive oversight.
As for me, hopefully I have finally learned my lesson with Amazon's self published instructional texts. Paying a little extra money for a book that's seen the editors of a publishing house is well worth the expense.
Even though this book might be useful for someone who's starting with bra making, it's full of myths and misinformation. For example, your boobs are not gonna sag without wearing a bra; it's frequent laundering, not wear, that destroys the fabric (so laundering after each use as suggested will effectively shorten the lifespan of your lingerie); but the biggest pet peeve of mine is sizing chart where suggested czech sizing just isn't used here in the Czech republic at all, which makes me wonder how reliable the rest of the theory mentioned in the book is. The practical information seems fine though but you have to take the rest with the grain of salt.
Was disappointed to find that this book didn't have any more detailed assistance (especially around underwires) that I could get in a standard pattern - I thought it would have more tips and tricks for a finish that would be comfortable and last longer (e.g. ways to insert your underwires so they don't immediately poke a hole through the elastic/fabric - my current dilemma)
I've had this on my bookshelf for a long time...aspirational book buying, I suppose. This weekend, I'm taking a workshop with the author, and so I re-read the book. Alongside her in-person instruction, this book is going to be my bra-making bible. I imagine, though, that even without a workshop, any sewist would find it useful.
Never anywhere have I seen anything so complicated-looking so...demystefied. Clear step by step instructions that I might actually follow. I think I should actually. It will save money and I might actually like them instead of tolerate them!
IT has just the détails nleeded to start with enough informations. I think is a good fondation and ressources. I used it after watching vidéo and craftsy classes .
Read in preparation for tackling Watson. My kits arrived this week and I'm soooooo afraid of making underwear that doesn't fit and so doesn't get worn. This book is pretty awesome and thorough, although it's geared more toward underwire models, which Watson is not.
We'll see how this experiment goes, but this is a nice reference to have!