This book was solidly average. I skimmed it, more because I'm interested in Iceland than because the book itself was worth the time.
There were lovely lines and bits -- of sleeping with the windows open to the fjord, their first night in Brimnes -- "There is no such sleep, no such music to calm the interior frenzy, to lullaby your demons into drooling irrelevance. Someday you are going to die. So what? The human race is endlessly foolish. So what? you are broke and almost old. So what? God may or may not exist in some form. So what? It's up to him. Or her. Or neither. Or both. So what? Still light. Always light." (11).
And then the diatribe against Icelanders "selling their dreamland to the aluminum companies" -- okay, sure -- but he does seem to like electricity, aluminum airplanes to fly back and forth, cars to get where he's going, and the capitalism that supports his tenured (?) university job . . .(206).
And yet even that loveliness contains seeds of what was annoying, grating, about the collection. That reference to being broke -- and yet he has enough money to live half the year in one country and half in another. That seems far from broke. And he appears to have been teaching -- perhaps in a tenured position? -- for decades. So if he's broke, that's no one's fault but his own.
The references to his dissatisfactions with the United States were true, justified, and yet trite and also a bit naïve, given that Iceland was the most over-financialized, over-leveraged country by 2007 and imploded fiercely just after this book was published. "After a while, the United States is simply too much: too much religion and not enough gods, too much news and not enough wisdom, too many weapons of mass destruction . . . too much electricity and not enough light" (14) blah, blah, blah, the usual catalog of Romantic-inspired critiques of American life.
And yet my irritation with these elitist, holier-than-thou tendencies is perhaps not justified by the evidence -- Holm is careful to note the complex economic history of Iceland -- colonized by the Danes for centuries, with a large underclass of landless workers denied even the legal right to marry (82).
And another lovely lyrical bit about the urge to look into genealogy: "There was little communication - and probably little love - between the old country and the new. Those who stayed often thought those who left cowards, deserters, even traitors. those who left were often so embittered by the gross poverty, humiliation, failure, disease, and contempt that they wanted no ghosts to follow them across the Atlantic. But a century gone by is good balm for these passions, and leaves in its wake a more attractive human habit: curiosity.
"Who were these people? Am I like them? What did I inherit? not money in the case of Iceland, but bodies, even diseases and infirmities, noses, flat feet, weak eyes, height, musical or literary talent, and, of course, habits of mind, those windows forever coloring our perceptions" (83).
There was occasionally a bit of ignorance of wider social context that was grating -- "Iceland was so far away, so small [in 1550], that Rome's arms were not long enough to enforce priestly celibacy, or else they simply were not interested" -- priestly celibacy was not a thing widely enforced anywhere at that period.
And then another lovely meditation: "What I saw and felt in the melancholy quotient [of old family photos] my cousin Bill wished on me -- a consciousness of my own death, of the disappearance of everything I've loved or done, and also of the extent of my failure and stupidity. If those people are dead, so will I be soon." (104-5).
And there were certainly passages in which I recognized myself: "Language was the equipage with which I traveled. It is not to my credit that I acquired only one of them. What was absent from my first literary efforts was the farm . . My head lived in the world of books, of words . . . I still live in that rarefied world, unless I make a conscious effort to leave it" (129).
And then the boring diatribes -- against Muzak in waiting rooms programmed from afar, "phone us at dinnertime to sell us doodads and we buy" (133). Well, yes, but jeez. You just sound like a cantankerous, sour old crank when you go on like that.
He did say some basic truths plainly: "Americans are foolish to imagine that immigrants always come gladly, or that they are eager to 'melt.' People do not immigrate for 'freedom,' an SUV, welfare payments, or our gods (however you understand them) . . . People more oftenemigrate because they are desperate, and there is nothing left for them in the Old World. And some, like the dead Icelandic horses heaved into the sea, will not survive the experience" (167).