Henry David Thoreau’s “Cape Cod” reads much more like a traditional travel book than most of his work, and I found it quite accessible, even entertaining, for that reason. While I don’t think that “Cape Cod” reaches the philosophical depth of “Walden,” or even “A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers,” it is full of powerful and stunning passages. Perhaps most emotionally intense are Thoreau’s descriptions of the shipwreck in the opening chapter. He contemplates the smallness of human endeavors against nature’s power and the disturbing eagerness of various people on shore to see the bodies washed up from the wreck. Thoreau writes of the shipwreck’s victims that they “were coming to the New World, as Columbus and the Pilgrims did, they were within a mile of its shores; but, before they could reach it, they emigrated to a newer world than ever Columbus dreamed of… it has not yet been discovered by science… not merely mariners’ tales and some paltry drift-wood and sea-weed, but a continual drift and instinct toward all our shores. I saw their empty hulks that came to land; but they themselves, meanwhile, were cast upon some shore yet further west, toward which we are all tending, and which we shall reach at last, it may be through storm and darkness, as they did” (8). I found these scenes especially moving because so many label Thoreau as uncompassionate and cold. They think that he wanted to remove himself from society, which is entirely false. Rather, in seeking solitude, he hoped to meditate on how better to participate in society, while maintaining his own moral standards and ideas. As evidenced in “Cape Cod,” Thoreau was deeply shaken by the sight of the shipwreck victims, and it was his compassion for them that caused this meditation on what he saw as the ultimate destiny of humankind, a higher calling to some unknown beyond our mortal lives.
Though “Cape Cod” opens with great emotional intensity, it does not remain so dark throughout. There are even humorous passages and anecdotes about Thoreau’s various trips to the Cape. (The Wellfleet Oysterman he meets is especially memorable and entertaining) Thoreau seemed more “real” to me in reading this novel than he sometimes does in his other work. He details the specifics of his trip here more than in his other more philosophical travel accounts like “The Maine Woods” and “A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers”. His inclusion of a variety of day-to-day events, like the ubiquity of Cape sand in his shoes (quite familiar to anyone who has visited the Cape), and even getting “quite sick” from eating a supposedly-poisonous part of an oyster (poor Henry!) make this feel like a less lofty, more personal version of Thoreau. Certainly in reading a book like this, some of Thoreau’s supposed coldness is dispelled. One of my favorite “mundane” passages in the book is the following, when Thoreau describes staying the night at the Highland lighthouse: “The keeper entertained us handsomely in his solitary little ocean house… The light-house lamps a few feet distant shone full into my chamber, and made it as bright as day, so I knew exactly how the Highland Light bore all that night, and I was in no danger of being wrecked. Unlike the last, this was as still as a summer night. I thought as I lay there, half awake and half asleep, looking upward through the window at the lights above my head, how many sleepless eyes from far out on the Ocean stream-- mariners of all nations spinning their yarns through the various watches of the night-- were directed toward my couch” (75). As with much of Thoreau’s writings, I can’t put my finger on exactly why this passage is so beautiful, or why I kept turning back to and re-reading it, but it stays in my mind as one of my favorite of the book, and of Thoreau’s writing. Perhaps it is because of the transcendent (no pun intended!) moment of connection that he feels, falling asleep at the lighthouse, to the lives of countless people whom he will never meet, but who rely on that light to guide them safely to port.
Along with the more human Henry Thoreau that emerges in the pages of “Cape Cod,” readers are treated to Thoreau’s incredible ability to turn ruminations on nature into an opportunity to learn about humankind. In one of my favorite passages of Thoreau yet, he describes finding a bottle that had washed ashore on the beach “half buried in the wet sand, covered with barnacles, but stopped right, and half full of red ale, which still smacked of juniper,-- all that remained I fancied from the wreck of a rowdy world,-- that great salt sea on the one hand, and this little sea of ale on the other, preserving their separate characters. What if it could tell us its adventures over countless ocean waves! Man would not be man through such ordeals as it had passed. But as I poured it slowly out on to the sand, it seemed to me that man himself was like a half-emptied bottle of pale ale, which Time had drunk, so far, yet stopped tight for a while, and drifting about in the ocean of circumstances; but destined erelong to mingle with the surrounding waves, or be spilled amid the sands of a distant shore” (51). In this passage, Thoreau connects the concrete events of a bottle washed ashore on the beach to his philosophy that one must always struggle to maintain individual against a conformist majority. His ability to see the profound in thoroughly mundane experiences is one of my favorite aspects of his writing, and passages like this one are what elevate “Cape Cod” from the rank of travel book merely.
Finally, Thoreau spends a great deal of time writing about the ocean in “Cape Cod” and reconciling it with his understanding of nature overall. This sea, capable of wrecking ships against its shores, is certainly at odds with the serene waters of Henry’s familiar Walden Pond. It seems more aligned with the frightening yet awe-inspiring wilderness of “The Maine Woods”. Thoreau writes that: “The sea-shore is a sort of neutral ground, a most advantageous point from which to contemplate this world. It is even a trivial place. The waves forever rolling to the land are too far-travelled and untameable to be familiar… It is a wild, rank place, and there is no flattery in it… a vast morgue, where famished dogs may range in packs, and crows come daily to glean the pittance which the tide leaves them. The carcasses of men and beasts together lie stately up upon its shelf, rotting and bleaching in the sun and waves, and each tide turns them in their beds, and tucks fresh sand under them. There is naked Nature,-- inhumanly sincere, wasting no thought on man, nibbling at the cliffy shore where gulls wheel amid the spray” (79). Though the ocean is vast and frightening, its power is invigorating to Thoreau, who loves the untameable aspect of it. He contemplates this in another passage as well, writing: “I think that [Cape Cod] was never more wild than now. We do not associate the idea of antiquity with the ocean, nor wonder how it looked a thousand years ago, as we do of the land, for it was equally wild and unfathomable always… The aspect of the shore only has changed. The ocean is a wilderness reaching round the globe, wilder than a Bengal jungle, and fuller of monsters, washing the very wharves of our cities and the gardens of our sea-side residences” (80). Central to Thoreau’s philosophy is his conception of the unknown, of wild and unknowable nature. He celebrates exploration throughout the book, writing that “It was a poetic recreation to watch those distant sails steering for half fabulous ports, whose very names are a mysterious music to our ears… It is remarkable that men do not sail the sea with more expectation. Nothing memorable was ever accomplished in a prosaic mood. The heroes and discoverers have found true more than was previously believed, only when they were expecting and dreaming of something more than their contemporaries dreamed of, or even themselves discovered, that is, when they were in a frame of mind fitted to behold the truth” (53) Thus, in Thoreau’s mind, it is not sufficient to set out only on a literal exploration voyage. If one does this, he or she will discover only the material. Rather, Thoreau believes, we must put ourselves in a frame of mind to explore ourselves as well as the world around us, to discover our own truths. The unknown is not frightening to Thoreau, as it is to other writers. Rather, it represents potential for great discovery. During his lifetime, the West was quickly being settled, and that frontier was vanishing. In “Cape Cod,” Thoreau seems to turn to the ocean as a place that has forever been wild and “unfathomable”. For him, it is necessary in a spiritual way for there to always exist greater heights yet unvisited, greater depths yet unfathomed.