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184 pages, Paperback
First published September 15, 2004
I said to him, “You really think life is short? To me it seems interminably long.”
Monks are for the most part ordinary people, and their daily existence is not always free of trivial matters.
Theravada monks (bhikkhus) were intended by the Lord Buddha to be mendicants, not hermits.
As months went by and I went from place to place and experience to experience, frustration and despair built up. Across Europe, across Asia, nothing external really seemed to help. Everywhere people basically seemed to be the same.
One time the following year when I had made yet another request for bhikkhu ordination, he said through Sumedho, “there’s no need to hurry; the Buddha died under the trees.”
It was getting cold, and a monk who was leaving suggested that his kuti might be a bit more comfortable since it was smaller and less drafty. So I moved. But it was near the wall of the wat and the farmers would pass by with their buffaloes in the daytime. This disturbed me because I was still convinced that meditation and noise don’t mix, so after a few days I moved back.
Ajahn Chah got on the circuit too, and Wat Bah Pong became pretty quiet. I spent a lot of time at my kuti, meditating and wondering with trepidation what would become of me. The food got leaner, the weather got colder, and I envisioned a life of walking and sitting meditation, enduring hunger and fatigue, hardly ever talking to anyone.
So in the morning I would boil water and bring hot and cold water for him to wash his face. When he came downstairs I would give him the water and kneel there with a towel, while one of the novices took his false teeth to clean them. Usually he would walk around with the towel afterwards, and let me follow, until he finally gave it to me to hang up. His robes would be made ready to put on for pindapat, but first he would check things out at his kuti, throw some rice to the wild chickens, sit down and talk, drink tea. Occasionally a couple of nuns would come at this time to discuss something. It was always interesting to watch the local monks and nuns when they came to see him. They spoke to him with the utmost deference, almost as if they were terrified of him. With us Westerners he was usually the kindly old man, though over the years I was to see him play many different roles. He could make you love him or hate him, feel respect, fear, doubt or disgust for him, and he could juggle your mind states around quite rapidly.
In the afternoons after sweeping his kuti, emptying his spittoon, and so on, I would sit down for a while, to listen as he spoke to whoever was there, sometimes to talk or maybe be given a cup of tea, mostly just to be there. After the guests were gone he took his bath, with a few of us helping him, holding his towel, taking his robe, offering the dry bathing cloth, washing his back and feet, cleaning his sandals.
Occasionally Ajahn Chah too would ask about Western life and customs, about my past experiences, about science (astronomy was usually interesting to them).>One thing he never showed any interest in was politics, either domestic or international.It really mattered little, and I eventually learned that they generally don’t take personal histories nearly as seriously as we do; [...]I often felt that his methods were drastic and extreme, and maybe he didn’t make the absolutely best decision in every particular case, but it didn’t really matter, because the practice was to take things as they come, and we could trust that he really cared about us and that ultimately we were guided by his superior wisdom and that of the monk’s discipline itself, which contained nothing harmful.The Buddha did allow five “medicinal substances” to be taken after noon: sugar, honey, oil, butter and a substance sometimes interpreted as cheese. They are used as a source of calories rather than for healing. In Thailand sugar is the only one of these which is widely available.There are many rare experiences that one is privilege to by living in a monastery, and living without a future is one of them.A visitor was told he could stay three nights, during which time he would usually have to sleep in the sala, the main meeting hall. If he was serious about staying to practice, and had a letter from his preceptor or the monastery he came from, he would be given a kuti and put through a probationary period. He would sit at the end of the line and not be allowed to take part in official Sangha functions, such as the fortnightly uposatha ceremony, the confession of offenses and recitation of the 227 Patimokkha rules.I had been told that being a bhikkhu with the Vinaya rules to keep would make a big difference, and just having the third robe to wear over my shoulder actually did make things feel different.As vassa began things got quite strict. I felt the noose tightening and I wasn’t happy. I was constantly being checked and reprimanded by both the abbot, a crusty old man, and the second monk, a young firebrand who actually did the teaching. There was often plenty of manual labor to do, and the morning and evening practice of meditation and chanting was supplemented by hours of reading and explanation of the Vinaya, which is generally agreed upon as one of the most deadly boring experiences in the great chiliocosm [...]When vassa ended I had intestinal worms and went right back to Wat Bah Pong.As soon as he brought it back, Ajahn Chah spat a big red mouthful of betel nut into it, handed it back, and said with a straight face, “clean it.”After chanting was done, he spoke for an hour with a layman who had come. Then he began his desana. He went on and on. And on. After a couple of hours it was obvious he was playing with us.Meanwhile, the Peace Corps monk, who had been sitting directly in front of him, was squirming around, changing sitting positions, holding his drawn-up knees (definitely not to be done), and glaring angrily at Ajahn Chah.It was a cold winter, and in the wat there’s no way to warm up (monks aren’t allowed to light fires to warm themselves).Ajahn Chah didn’t go to speak to the nuns very often, but the times I was there he gave excellent talks.I had heard stories about the “cuisine” at Nong Hy: silkworms, bugs, frogs. But it wasn’t all that bad, especially compared to some of the other branches of Wat Bah Pong. And the frogs were actually pretty tasty. There was usually enough curry and fresh vegetables to go with the rice.After a few weeks I went back to Wat Bah Pong with Ajahn Sinuan for Magha Puja, one of the main Buddhist holidays.It was 1974, and I was still down in the Frog Pond with Ajahn (who is now Mr.) Sinuan.I had come to Wat Bah Pong in May, as I vaguely recalled Luang Por having said something about training the farang monks at Visakha time, though when I arrived he was gone and nobody knew anything about it; still, it was an excuse for a “vacation.”In early December we went to a Pah Bah ceremony at Wat Bah Klor, a new temple in Amper Det Udom.After two hours he stopped, so I went back to my kuti for some yoga, but I soon heard his voice over the loudspeaker again.I’d just read Journey to Ixtlan, and the forest seemed to be electric with mysterious energies and menacing forces.Suffice it to say that in time the Sangha at Bung Wai learned to do the Parivasa process, as we learned to do other Sangha functions.He did come to our Pah Bah ceremony, however. It was a pretty humble affair, sponsored by the local railroad workers. They gave us each a blanket and a lantern.Indeed, before going there I had been experiencing a phase that Ajahn Jun had predicted and warned me about, i.e. attraction to family life, thinking that I’d learned enough to be a good layman and could raise a family in a proper way according to Dharma, etc.Then he asked me what I wanted to do in the future. Did I want to go tudong or live in solitude, did I want to teach, did I want to become a scholar … ?I am reminded of Sasaki Roshi who has said that people here like Zen meditation but are not yet interested in Mahayana Zen, and when asked what he thought of Zen in the West, said that as far as he could see, Zen hadn’t yet come to the West.The purpose of meditation is more than just calming ourselves from time to time, getting ourselves out of trouble, but seeing and uprooting the causes which produce trouble and make us not calm to begin with.There were questions and answers, then the Mindful Way film (made by the BBC) about Wat Bah Pong was shown.I said that I usually felt that for me, death was far in the future, I was destined to live a long time, 100 years or more.”That’s the wisdom of Devadatta,” he replied.Finally he told people they were always welcome to come to his wat and stay for a while. Wat Bah Pong is like a factory, he said. After the product is finished it can be sent out into the world. But it’s easier to train people if they’re far from their home.”There were some people at the center who’d been with the Korean Zen master, Seung Sahn, and had left him to find greener pastures among the Theravadins, but now Ajahn Chah was teaching just as he had.”When the retreat ended he went to visit Anicca Farm, a piece of land where several practicers were living.The trip there was a Thai “classic.” We rushed into town to make an 11 AM truck, except it was leaving at 12, so we waited in the store of a lay supporter. When the truck did leave, it drove around town picking up passengers and goods for transport, and after an hour we were still in Ubon, though at least on the side of town closer to Amper Keuang Ny, which is where we wanted to go.I’m getting depressed as I type this, it reminds me how hard it’s getting to find a quiet place in Thailand, and I fear it’s a prime example of how population growth and modernization combine to erode the quality of life.One morning, well before the bell, I woke up with cramps in my stomach. I reached for my kettle to pour some water, only to get a cup full of ants. It seemed like a classic forest wat episode.Next stop, Sri Lanka. Up to now my game plan had worked well, and I was in high spirits. I went to a meditation center that had been recommended to me, outside of Kandy on a hilltop above the tea fields. An idyllic location, but it was crowded, and it felt a little strange to be living with lay people again. After two weeks I took to the road, stopped to check out the British hill station of Newar Eliya, and ended up at a hermitage in Bandarawela. It was a sturdy place built out of stone and concrete by a European monk. There were only an English bhikkhu and a Japanese anagarika living there.At least there were cushioned mats to sit on, and we in the back row could use zafus or other such illegal things (this was another of my long-standing disputes with the stubbornness of the Thai monastic system—as a monk I was always sneaking in wads of cloth to sit on, or sitting on the rolled up end of my sanghati, the outer robe which is usually folded into a long narrow strip and worn over the shoulder; sometimes I would sit on my flashlight. Some sat on books. As we all know, raising the buttocks helps to straighten the back. But Thais prefer to sit slumped over rather than break with custom).Ajahn Som has built some gaudy Buddhas and, against Sangha rules, installed donation boxes, so he is encouraging the people who come with their radios and bottles of whiskey.One of the special attractions of Tarn Saeng Pet was that it's three km from the nearest village, so the noise of village festivals and movie shows doesn't reach the monastery at night.From Ayuthaya we took the train to Nonthaburi, on the outskirts of Bangkok, and went to stay with Ajahn Sumedho at Wat Pra Sri Mahadhatu.