An introduction to the career of Travis Banton, one of the preeminent costume/fashion designers of Hollywood’s Celebrated “Golden Age.” Working at Paramount Pictures from 1925 through 1938, Banton was responsible for creating the on-screen images of such legendary actresses as Carole Lombard, Claudette Colbert, Mae West, and most notably Marlene Dietrich. His peers were Gilbert Adrian at MGM and Orry-Kelly at Warner Brothers; one of his proteges was the legendary designer Edith Head. Eschewing a potentially lucrative legal career, Banton attend the New York School of Fine and Applied Arts, the first school in New York City to offer courses in fashion design. This led to positions with the most famous and successful couturiéres of the day, the British Lady Duff-Gordon and Madame Frances who, despite her name, lived and worked in the United States. They both served as a training ground for Banton’s eventual move to Paramount Pictures in 1925. This celebration of his career and achievements is long overdue.
Thank you to NetGalley and Globe Pequot for providing this book as an eARC. All opinions expressed in this review are my own.
This book was an incredible read that introduces you to Travis Banton, an influential yet often overlooked costume designer who left an indelible mark not just on Hollywood but on fashion at large. Howard Gutner expertly weaves a narrative about image-making, socioeconomic conditions, and interpersonal relationships whilst finding ways to describe the art of costume-making that leave you breathless with wonder at Banton's influence. I particularly appreciate the manner in which the book provides a look at the nature and power of celebrity by giving us a look behind the curtain, and how it takes its time to bring different aspects of Banton's life together to culminate in a powerful way that underscores the very thesis of the book itself, namely that Banton is a name worth knowing and remembering.
This was a FANTASTIC read and will be a must-have for any fan of old Hollywood glamour.
I loved the way it was organized, covering Banton’s relationships with several of his most notable actress pairings: Marlene Dietrich, Carole Lombard, Mae West, Anna May Wong, Kay Francis.
A wide variety of sources were used and this contained a lot of insightful analysis of the costumes and how they reflected the characters in the film, but also reflected fashion history (both historical films and the then-current trends of the 30s).
This book is brimming with history, details and anecdotes about Banton‘s fashions for stars like Carole Lombard and Mae West, but I have to admit I was mostly there for the gorgeous photos. There are tons. If you love old style Hollywood glamour, you won’t be disappointed.
I read an advance copy of this book via netgalley.