Bill Tillman. A man of rock and little emotion and certainly no fuss. Saw the First WW as a gunner with the Royal Artillery (Military Cross), went to Africa as a planter, climbed Mt Kenya etc etc, broke the mould for light expeditions to high mountains, climbed Nanda Devi (25,643ft - the highest mountain then climbed), and led numerous expeditions to the north face of Everest. THEN he took to sailing. Not yachtie-ing, but in a wooden Bristol Pilot Cutter which he would sail from Lymington on the south coast of England to the Arctic and Antarctic for adventure and a little climbing. They broke the mould when he disappeared at sea in 1977 at the age of 79 in the South Atlantic en route to the Falkland Isles in someone else's wooden Bristol Pilot Cutter.
Tilman was very much one of my teenage heroes. The only person I can think like him was the Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti. I subsequently sailed with a captain very like Tilman. Like his (Tilman's) ad for crew in the Telegraph 'a cold voyage of no pay and not much fun'.
This biography saves you reading many of Tilman's books the best of which is The Ascent of Nanda Devi,