Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion

by Eleanor Medhurst

Clothes are integral to lesbian history. Lesbians, in turn, are integral to the history of fashion. The way that we dress can help us to present who we are to the world, or it can help us to hide ourselves. It can align us with a community or make us stand out from the crowd. For lesbians, fashion can have innumerable meanings - yet "lesbian fashion" is rarely considered, the main association between lesbians and their clothes being of un -fashionability.

In Unsuitable , Eleanor Medhurst explores the history of lesbian fashion, a field that has been overwhelmingly ignored within both fashion and queer histories. Unsuitable uncovers the relationships between lesbians and their clothes as well as their fashionable details, from top hats to violet tiaras. It spans centuries and Anne Lister of nineteenth century Yorkshire and "Paris Lesbos" of the 1920s, butch/femme bar culture of the 1950s and lesbian activists in the '80s. It celebrates Black lesbian histories, trans lesbian histories, and histories of gender-nonconformity.

The lesbian past is slippery; it has often deliberately been hidden, altered or left unrecorded. This book lights it up and shares it with the world, adorned in all its finery.

Genres: Nonfiction, Queer, History, LGBT, Fashion, Lesbian, Feminism

344 pages, Hardcover

Published June 1, 2024

Reviews

[Sophia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Content Warnings: lesbophobia, homophobia, transphobia, misogyny

From Sappho's violets to the slogan tees and Doc Martens of the late 20th and early 21st century, Unsuitable takes a whistle-stop tour through the history of lesbian fashion, exploring the way lesbians have dressed throughout the decades, and the impact of fashion on lesbian culture, community, and history.

What a delight this was to read! Lesbian fashion history is a very niche, under researched field and this book proves that it deserves a lot more attention. Unsuitable, while in no way a comprehensive study of lesbian fashion history, is clearly very well-researched, and utterly fascinating. My only wish is that it was longer and more deep-diving. I'd happily read an entire book about the contents of any given chapter, and I'm fully with the author in hoping this book encourages more of its kind. I loved learning in more depth and specificity about the fashions of historical figures I already knew almost as much as I enjoyed finding new icons of sapphic and lesbian history to learn about (many of whom I'm feeling an itch to go off and read more about!) Unsuitable is also written very accessibly. It's not overly bogged down in academic language and would be very readable even for people who aren't used to reading history books. The author's passion for her field is absolutely palpable while reading, and it's easy to be swept up in that same interest and enthusiasm.

There's just something very special as a lesbian reader about reading lesbian history. To know that we really were always there is very grounding and validating. In her afterword, Medhurst writes that she "was desperate to discover a history that I was at the end of". This resonates deeply with me. It's always been a wonderful feeling to find community with fellow sapphics and lesbians through fashion - be that violets and Docs - but it's even more meaningful once you're aware of the history and legacies tied up in these symbols.

A huge thank you to Hurst & Company for sending me an ARC!

[Tass · Rating 3 out of 5]

lovely introduction to lesbian history + queer aesthetic history, but would definitely recommend more as an introduction than always a work of super detailed analysis. at times slightly repetitive + i wasn’t convinced by all Medhurst’s conclusions, but the introduction + afterword i found fantastic! Medhurst specifically positions the book as a starting point, personally And culturally, + honestly acknowledges her limitations + her hopes for the future in a way i really admire.

i would also say this is also less a work of specific research than a collation of previous research and secondary sources? i’ve spent a lot of time researching queer history myself, and it seems Medhurst + myself have used a lot of the same sources! meaning much of this was information i already had 😁 BUT this is not said at all to discredit Medhurst’s work on this. a Lot of these sources are academic so the collation here makes this history far more accessible, through language used, not requiring access to JSTOR and other academic databases, and the time required to find all of this individually. i think it’s fantastic that something like this exists.

absolute standout chapters are those focused on specific individuals - Gladys Bentley, Kōkichi and Raichō, Anne Lister + queen Christina especially - as they have space to reach real depth + specificity regarding individual garments, where chapters covering eg. an entire city or period are unable to. of course. those are the parts i would love to read more and more of (though i completely understand the difficulty of this for historical figures who were rarely recorded in such depth)

regardless, am definitely + eagerly awaiting where Medhurst goes with this next

[Thanh · Rating 4 out of 5]

chloe michelle howarth recommended this and i love lesbians, history, and fashion so i started it (we won't speak about how this is a welcomed distraction from the current book club book) <3 quite academic. i do agree that it focuses more on people's lives and how they were perceived than on the clothes themselves but i don't mind that. i enjoyed learning about the history of places and time periods i wasn't acquainted with. i didn't know of so many of these people and i wish that i could've met them all but medhurst said it perfectly: "any kind of queer past is full of silences; clothing, so often, acts as the wearer's voice. we might not be able to speak to many of the figures who appear within this book, but the clothes they wore, preserved in letters, interviews, photographs, or paintings, can help us understand them" :')

i often express how although subverting gender through clothing is empowering, it simultaneously can feel quite isolating. reading "in the billions of human lifetimes across the entirety of the world, there have been people who felt what we feel today, and innumerable moments when clothing has been chosen or changed to reflect those feelings" was very comforting. i think it'll be nice the next time i wear a leather jacket or slick my hair back knowing that i'm paying homage to history and that someway somehow i feel the same natural inclination towards how i present as so many others before me across time and space did <3

[Kim · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great, accessible resource for those looking to understand lesbian fashion history.

Medhurst acknowledges the limitations that come with studying and researching such a topic, especially as an independent researcher — a lack of funding, a lack of access to translations — but still pulls together a relatively intersectional guide, with chapters featuring black lesbians in Britain & the USA, a brief look at lesbians in early 20th century Japan, and trans lesbians during the inter-war period.

[Angela · Rating 4 out of 5]

This feels like such a silly critique as an adult, but I wish there’d been more pictures? I liked the ones we got, but I think using a visual art form as the focus of the history left me wanting to see more of that in the book, even sketches or small references.

Originally I was going to rate this three stars because this is definitely more of an overview rather than a deep dive, but I also can’t hold the fact that lesbian fashion has been hidden and glossing over against the author. Queer histories and female histories can be so hard to get in certain circumstances, and that’s even harder when the terms we use for lesbianism or queerness constantly evolve and grow to cover more or less aspects of an identity.

I also believe we take our modern day access to individual histories for granted which can leave a hunger or more when learning about older time periods, especially in this case with the histories being actively shunned or hidden for safety.

I’m glad we’re able to delve more into these people’s lives and styles, and while maybe this wasn’t fully what I was wanting, again, that’s no real fault of the author. She’s gives plenty for us to learn and I enjoyed getting a glimpse into what we have recorded for an oft-ignored community.

[Amy Marsden · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love learning about lesbian history, and this was no exception. It was a little light on the fashion sometimes, favouring history, but I didn't mind that. A good read!

[Sintija Kapteine · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a historian, I found myself (against my will) reading this book rather nitpicky. What could've helped the author is setting a clear and achievable aim and, when in doubt, returning to it. At times this book focused too much on the lives of the mentioned women rather than the clothes themselves (don't get me wrong - this book is fascinating, even when it's swaying away from the topic as expressed in the title). I also found the conclusions at the end of each paragraph slightly generalized; they could've been more concise. The author acknowledges limitations (that are always present in historiography) that I assume are the cause why this book offers not a monolith accord of lesbian fashion history but rather several examples with gaps in periodization and location.

Now, that being lifted off my chest, I LOVED this book. Finally, there is a summarized account on this very specific, extremely interesting and often overlooked part of history and I hope that this book is just the tip of the iceberg and the author will find a way to get past the said limitations and will dig deeper into this topic. This was a very well done research that was done justice by the author's passion in the topic so I see how it could be taken even further.

[Serj · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great introduction to lesbian history and fashion history across time, from Sappho to kd Lang. The author writes academically but not inaccessibly, giving an overview of the political landscape of a certain era before describing key players and the styles they wore. My main criticism is simply that there’s a very American/eurocentric lens with only one chapter about 1910s Japan while there are multiple chapters on England, France, Germany, and the US. Understandably the book would’ve been cumbersome if it included every culture but I would absolutely read a follow-up with Middle Eastern, African, South Asian, and more East Asian histories.

[Lo Celeste Riddell · Rating 5 out of 5]

really lovely overview of lesbian fashion (especially that of some of the most influential and remembered figures in western lesbian history)!!! i love the way medhurst writes and i love her call to action in the end - that this book is only a beginning, and that she wants to see more writers do deep dives into the many aspects of lesbian fashion/history that she didn’t fit into this book. awesome

[emily · Rating 4 out of 5]

i have basically no interest in fashion itself but seeing the last signed copy of this in my local waterstones felt like fate, this book talked about so many lesbians throughout history i am obsessed. while i don’t totally agree with some of the things in this book from my feminist standpoint, i will take any sort of lesbian history i can get my hands on!

[Monique Scheidler · Rating 4 out of 5]

incredibly fun book! bring back lesbians in sailor uniforms and monocles!

[Teo · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great introduction to this subject that's inclusive of both PoC and trans women. How interesting were the Japanese and Harlem chapters? Though I will say the chapters talking about individuals were better than the ones talking about overall movements/places, but this was still an informative read nonetheless. Loved learning that winkle-pickers had a place in lesbian history all the way back in the 50s!

Something else I did notice was there were certain parts where it felt like it could've gone deeper instead of repeating a lot of the same talking points. Also wish there were double the pictures, considering this is a fashion book after all.

This has me craving more, especially international perspectives that weren't covered in here. Let's hope this book does kick off a new sub-genre.

[tegan]

a little underbaked! wanted some chapters to be a lot longer and have more to say. some of medhurst’s claims felt like reaches and could have benefited from more argument to support them. would recommend to someone who isn’t particularly well versed in lesbian history but NOT the literate dykes among us

[mia]

me nodding the whole time

[Emé Stölting · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent, in depth exploration of queer history.

[kelly · Rating 5 out of 5]

been slowly making my way through this book… i specifically loved the chapter on importance lesbian t-shirts

[Martina · Rating 4 out of 5]

interesantisimo!!!!!! amo a las lesbianas, nuestras historias y nuestras maneras de expresarnos :)) ojalá este libro hubiese salido cuando estaba haciendo mi tfg pero aún así lo he disfrutado #friki

[maddie · Rating 4 out of 5]

i’ve been following medhurst for years through her project “dressing dykes” and am so happy to have finally finished reading her first book! though not a truly comprehensive history of lesbian fashion, as acknowledged by the author, it was an excellent broad overview of the topic and a great jumping off point to dig deeper into individual histories. this book serves as an excellent compilation of many branches of lesbian and fashion research and many hidden histories, finally brought together in one accessible text. medhurst’s passion for the subject shines throughout the book and i’m thankful that it exists.

[Althea · Rating 4 out of 5]

Despite how long it took me to finish this book this was one of my most highly anticipated books of the year - I love Eleanor's blog and TikToks on lesbian fashion throughout history and I even got to see her talk about the subject and get my book signed! This was such a great introduction into the topic that covered a wide variety of times and fashion choices, from the Harlem Renaissance, to Anne Lister to lesbian feminism of the 70s. Highly recommend this!

[Em · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great introduction into learning about select historical lesbian figures, lesbian fashion, and lesbians involvement in political movements. It provides a summary and some insight on different time periods, individuals and cultures. It is a lot of information in one book. I do think it gives readers the opportunity to have a "jumping off point" for certain histories, allowing the reader to have background knowledge while they continue (Or begin) to explore historical narratives that may interest them or resonate within. I really enjoyed the chapter "The Lesbian Threat of the Suffragettes."

[Aurelia Littlepage · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is definitely a fun read!! I loved the chapters about specific people more than the board chapters about time periods/ movements. It definitely felt like there were a few gaps, especially in the more contemporary chapters. No carabiner talk at all! Overall I found the writing engaging and well researched.

[Reagan Priest · Rating 5 out of 5]

“any kind of queer past is full of silences; clothing, so often, acts as the wearer’s voice.” a really great introduction to lesbian/queer history through fashion and expression.

[luna · Rating 3 out of 5]

Medhurst's passion for lesbian fashion history and lesbian history as a whole is an evident feature of this book. The book covers a wide range of important figures in lesbian history, with a particular focus on the US and Europe.

I think that this book just tackled too much at once. Some of the chapters, like Chapter 2: Christina of Sweden, Girl King, were too short and underdeveloped when compared to others. Some of the chapters don't focus on the significance of dress enough, while others do. I also think that by focusing on specific historical figures, Medhurst confined herself to discuss their lives more rather than the clothing itself. The historical figures were interesting to read about, yes, but I wanted to learn more about the fashion. I wish that the discussion of lesbian intersectionality and its correlation to lesbian fashion was also addressed to a greater extent than it was. I thought it was one of the most compelling parts of the book.

OVERALL: I wanted to love this book, but it culminated into an underwhelming experience. Not to say that it's a bad book!!! Medhurst clearly put a lot of work into it, and it still introduces a lot about lesbian history in an accessible form.

[Nevi Gaetan · Rating 3 out of 5]

I really, really wanted to like this more but maybe it was more of a problem with the marketing of the book more than the content itself. There was a lot of focus on trying to circumvent online discourse and general histories rather than actual /fashion/ analysis I would want from a fashion historian. This book attempts to cover a lot of content without delving into any one subject in depth, which is both to be expected but also difficult to endure as a reader. There’s a lot of quoting from other sources on alternate speculation rather than any speculating from the author’s viewpoints as to why certain garments were worn when which I think could have aided the structure and content, but instead gave the overall impression of a school report rather than a fashion history text. Then again, texts covering this kind of content are not as common even now, so credit where credit is due.

[carol · Rating 5 out of 5]

As an avid lover of lesbian non-fiction texts, i have never read something which can be so readily observed within everyday lesbian spheres. The expansive chronology of this text beautifully emphasizes the conficting need for both tradition and modernity within lesbian spaces, and how such a mundane act such as ones choice of clothing has actually allowed for lesbians to be interlinked throughout hundred of years. We have and always will exist.

[Mary Rose · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wanted to like this book a lot more than I ended up liking it. It reads more like a sequence of stories about historical lesbians than as a history of fashion. Yes, it mentions their clothes, but it spends equal or more time describing their biographies. While this may be one of the first histories of lesbian fashion, if you've read any general lesbian histories, the stories will be familiar and you'll find the observations about clothes offered here typically not new or insightful.
I was really surprised at the book's lack of engagement with material histories of fashion, it is basically all about who-wore-what (in very general terms, mind you.) Descriptions of clothes are pretty surface-level, mostly about garment-type, color, and maybe textile, but not about things like cut or tailoring.
While the book plays lip service to distinctions of class and race, it doesn't reckon with real questions of labor. The periods covered by this book, 17th to 21st century, are some of the most revolutionary periods of clothing history ever: the death of sumptuary laws, the rise of industrial manufacture, the colonial textile trade, the rise of the department store, the rise and fall of the mall, the rise of fast fashion, but you wouldn't know that from reading this book. Where did the clothes these lesbians wore come from? Who made them? How did they acquire them? How did they alter them to fit their bodies and needs? These questions are not only largely unanswered, but unacknowledged.
It's not that this book is bad, exactly, but I hope future lesbian fashion historians will be a little more critical on these questions.

[Ella-Mae Campling · Rating 5 out of 5]

An incredible feat. For an area of history oft forgotten, following Medhurst on her journey through social media has taught me a lot about the parts of lesbian history that have been hidden, forgotten or scrubbed from our history. So, when this book was announced I was ready to beg Hurst publishing for an ARC. Apparently, the begging works! Lesbians and queer people as a whole have always been here. Let me say that again. We, as queer people, have always been here. Despite what certain groups of people may believe or desire. Utilising very accessible language Medhurst has crafted a book I found entirely enticing, educational and validating. Crossing continents and timelines, she crafts the path of those who have come before us, and shown us as much as she could fit into a book of less than 300 pages! I learnt so so much from this book, and fell down many a rabbit hole- this is a brilliantly researched book that is pivotal in the reclaiming of that which the patriarchal society may rather leave as history. From Sappho to Romaine Brooks to Anne Lister, every page is invigoratingly educational. I recommend to anyone who has an interest in the erasure of queerness throughout history, lesbian history, or someone who may want to just learn about some really interesting and cool people general history lessons don’t teach us about (Christina of Sweden anyone?). A definite 5 stars.

[Caitlin · Rating 4 out of 5]

As someone who doesn't know nearly as much about queer history as I'd like and regularly follows fashion history YouTube channels, I picked this up after Jessica Kellgren-Fozard mentioned it in one of her videos. As you might guess from the subtitle, Unsuitable follows both queer and fashion history, talking about lesbian fashion from classic Greek Sappho to the present day and there was a lot of history there that at least for me was completely unknown.

As a cis, straight person, it's a bit embarrassing and sad to realize just how much of queer history I'm unfamiliar with. Reading Unsuitable really brought home how often there are these cycles of queer history being erased and rewritten to be nonexistent. It was fascinating to hear about the Paris-Lesbos circles, the male impersonators in the UK and America and the ways in which T-shirts became focal points of protests. This is definitely more of a general history so it doesn't dive super deeply into the topics but it's a great jumping off point for learning more about the history and I appreciate the way that Medhurst included other perspectives that we might consider other identities now but history makes that complicated and acknowledging that felt really respectful.

If you're at all interested in fashion history generally or queer and particularly lesbian history and how much it's always been there, I'd highly recommend checking this out. It's definitely going to be the start of me educating myself on the some of the topics.

[Misha · Rating 4 out of 5]

What a wonderful exploration of lesbian history through fashion! I loved reading about bits of sapphic history I’ve never heard about before: Harlem rent parties, 1910s Japanese feminist groups, breeches roles in 18th century women. A reminder that we’ve always been here. Also made me think about how we’re following a similar path as the 1920s into 1930s at the moment. There was such freedom and jubilation in the 1920s compared to the years preceding, stripped away by the rise of fascism and war. We’re seeing this again as fascists and technocrats take control, rolling back protections for LGBT+ people and women as they hoard wealth and power. But it will not last forever and we will fight our way through.

[Nat · Rating 5 out of 5]

The history of lesbian looks is the history of lesbian visibility and signaling. This book presents real characters and stories from the past that many gender-nonconforming people like me would have loved to know when making those first fashion choices that felt so scary and, often, so lonely. It's obvious that queer people have always existed throughout history, but I love seeing evidence that confirms: yes, people like you were there! I found the book well-written and documented. The research is academic, but it's not intended for academic audiences, it's very enjoyable! You'll find plenty of historical lesbian gossip and styling inspiration. What are we waiting for to bring the monocle back?