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Walking Home from Mongolia: Ten Million Steps Through China, from the Gobi Desert to the South China Sea
Starting in the Gobi desert in winter, adventurer Rob Lilwall sets out on an extraordinary six month journey, walking 3,000 miles across China. Along the way he and cameraman Leon brave the toxic insides of China's longest road tunnel, explore desolate stretches of the Great Wall, and endure interrogation by the Chinese police. As they walk on through the heart of China, the exuberant hospitality of cave dwellers, coal miners, and desert nomads keeps them going despite sub-zero blizzards and treacherous terrain. Rob writes with humor and honesty about the hardships of the walk, reflecting on the nature of pilgrimage and the uncertainties of an adventuring career, while also giving insight into life on the road amid the epic landscapes and rapidly industrializing cities of backwater China.
304 pages, Paperback
First published November 21, 2013
42 people are currently reading
288 people want to read
About the author
Rob Lilwall
4 books15 followersIf one could choose a middle name for Rob, it would likely be “Daring”. Or “Resilient”. Some may prefer “Crazy”.
How else would you describe a former geography teacher and self-proclaimed “normal guy” who has walked across the Gobi in winter, braved the jungles of Papua New Guinea, and cycled across Afghanistan? Rob has presented two National Geographic TV series, and The Guardian called his first book “a two-wheeled classic.”
When Rob isn’t being chased by bandits, camping at minus 40, or crossing deserts, he spends his time on speaking, writing and charitable work. He is a graduate of the Universities of Edinburgh and Oxford, and a member of the Global Speakers Federation.
Based out of Hong Kong and Singapore, he is one of Asia Pacific’s most popular conference speakers.
How else would you describe a former geography teacher and self-proclaimed “normal guy” who has walked across the Gobi in winter, braved the jungles of Papua New Guinea, and cycled across Afghanistan? Rob has presented two National Geographic TV series, and The Guardian called his first book “a two-wheeled classic.”
When Rob isn’t being chased by bandits, camping at minus 40, or crossing deserts, he spends his time on speaking, writing and charitable work. He is a graduate of the Universities of Edinburgh and Oxford, and a member of the Global Speakers Federation.
Based out of Hong Kong and Singapore, he is one of Asia Pacific’s most popular conference speakers.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 48 reviews
August 18, 2017
It is only when you look at an atlas that you get an idea just how large China actually is. It manages to be the second largest state by land area and is home to around 1.3 billion people. It is not unknown for journeys to take a long time even by road, so to contemplate walking across the country is madness; or takes a special kind of adventurer.
Rob Lilwall is that man.
Joining him is Leon McCarron, an adventurer in his own right, but he will be there to film the journey for a documentary. The 3000-mile journey will take them from the Mongolian Steppe all the way to Hong Kong. Their 10,000,000 steps will take them across the Gobi in the depths of winter, over the Great Wall, past the terracotta army, through valleys and over rivers. The people they meet are almost all friendly and welcoming, even the police and authorities who naturally take a great interest in their journey seem to be remarkably relaxed. It is a tough walk, as well as the physical issues involved in an endurance adventure, they have moments when tempers fray and misunderstandings abound.
It is quite an astonishing walk through a country undergoing rapid changes. Lilwall is not the most eloquent of writers and he is honest about the bad parts of the walk as well as those moments that will stay with him forever, but this is a book written from the heart and that is what makes this worth reading. 3.5 stars
Rob Lilwall is that man.
Joining him is Leon McCarron, an adventurer in his own right, but he will be there to film the journey for a documentary. The 3000-mile journey will take them from the Mongolian Steppe all the way to Hong Kong. Their 10,000,000 steps will take them across the Gobi in the depths of winter, over the Great Wall, past the terracotta army, through valleys and over rivers. The people they meet are almost all friendly and welcoming, even the police and authorities who naturally take a great interest in their journey seem to be remarkably relaxed. It is a tough walk, as well as the physical issues involved in an endurance adventure, they have moments when tempers fray and misunderstandings abound.
It is quite an astonishing walk through a country undergoing rapid changes. Lilwall is not the most eloquent of writers and he is honest about the bad parts of the walk as well as those moments that will stay with him forever, but this is a book written from the heart and that is what makes this worth reading. 3.5 stars
October 26, 2015
Rob and Leon walk 3000 miles from Mongolia to Hong Kong. The first half of the book covers their walk through the Gobi desert and into Northern China. While not exactly exciting, it's interesting to learn about little known places, the culture and people. Half way through the walk, Rob and Leon start to get bored and irritated with one another to the point that they split up and walk independently for a few weeks. They are also becoming bored with their journey and Rob is clearly bored with writing the book. While before one chapter covered one or two days, we start to speed up until a chapter covers two weeks. The second half of the book tells us very little about the countryside they're walking through and becomes increasingly about the slog of the journey. The book starts to feel like a slog too and by the time it draws to a close, Rob is clearly delighted to be finishing writing it. We could have been walking through just about anywhere in the last two sections. I think because it was familiar territory for Rob, he just couldn't be bothered writing about it in any detail and consequently I could barely be bothered reading it. This all makes it a very unbalanced and unsatisfactory book.
April 14, 2017
This was a very enjoyable account of a walking expedition through Mongolia and China.
January 24, 2018
Like another walking tale, To The Poles Without A Beard, I started thinking the trekkers were keen but a bit daft and were overlooking obviously needed items (a sleeping mat) - but became full of admiration for their dedication and accomplishments.
This account of trekking through the Gobi Desert and freezing plains of Mongolia to the heartland of China and segments of Walls of various ages, then the tea plantations and terraced rice paddies, finishing in Hong Kong, is honest, thoughtful and full of wry observations. Rob and Leon were sponsored by firms and a TV documentary maker, to film the trek and send home footage for editing. They worked away with a camera and tripod, a Go-Pro bodycam and an iPhone. The lessons they learned while thinking they knew enough initially, made them all the more determined to get it right, to the extent of flying back to the start to film some more footage in the Gobi, from halfway.
I love the way the lads were secure enough to refuse lifts and offers of taxis, and when obliged to travel in a police car out of a motorway tunnel they went back to the overland equivalent of where they were picked up. I did think that Dervla Murphy had it right when she chose a bicycle or a mule so as not to be carrying her entire home on her back.
As to the look inside China, most of what they saw was mining and trucking, mountains and new roads, settlements and vanishing ways of life. The vanishing is often a good thing, we feel. Try raising a child in that environment. The people were generally friendly. And fascinated by foreigners.
Enjoy! This is an unbiased review.
This account of trekking through the Gobi Desert and freezing plains of Mongolia to the heartland of China and segments of Walls of various ages, then the tea plantations and terraced rice paddies, finishing in Hong Kong, is honest, thoughtful and full of wry observations. Rob and Leon were sponsored by firms and a TV documentary maker, to film the trek and send home footage for editing. They worked away with a camera and tripod, a Go-Pro bodycam and an iPhone. The lessons they learned while thinking they knew enough initially, made them all the more determined to get it right, to the extent of flying back to the start to film some more footage in the Gobi, from halfway.
I love the way the lads were secure enough to refuse lifts and offers of taxis, and when obliged to travel in a police car out of a motorway tunnel they went back to the overland equivalent of where they were picked up. I did think that Dervla Murphy had it right when she chose a bicycle or a mule so as not to be carrying her entire home on her back.
As to the look inside China, most of what they saw was mining and trucking, mountains and new roads, settlements and vanishing ways of life. The vanishing is often a good thing, we feel. Try raising a child in that environment. The people were generally friendly. And fascinated by foreigners.
Enjoy! This is an unbiased review.
November 17, 2021
Rob Lilwall and Leon McCarron spent six months walking from Mongolia to Hong Kong, where Rob lives. Starting as winter was setting in, they crossed the Gobi Desert in brutally cold weather. The weather improved and the seasons changed as they progressed through China. There were some struggles and problems along the way but it's an account of the trip and the people they met.
I've read a number of books that are walking adventures to see an area and the people in ways you can't experience with other transportation methods. This one is different just for the shear size of the distance covered. To me it seems to be an honest accounting of the good, the bad and the ugly that there will be in any undertaking of this size.
I've read a number of books that are walking adventures to see an area and the people in ways you can't experience with other transportation methods. This one is different just for the shear size of the distance covered. To me it seems to be an honest accounting of the good, the bad and the ugly that there will be in any undertaking of this size.
February 9, 2019
I am actually choked this book is finished. After reading his first expedition book a few years ago I was happy to come to this one. I continued to get soo lost in his stories, memories and writing. From my own expeditions I can relate to so much of the difficulties he faced and overcame. Rob also started in the same Mongolian city I cycled through, so I loved hearing his own perspective - especially the crazy China/Mongolian border crossing experience. Ahhh such a grand adventure and so well written!!
January 5, 2016
Another wonderful book about an amazing journey/pilgrimage done by Rob. His adventures are definitely worthy to be written and read and no words will do justice to what he has done. The thing I loved about his travels was that they weren't done out of demonstrating something, but rather in the purpose of discovery of the places, the people and the self. With each page I discovered a new struggle or a new reason to want to embark on such a road.
I was floored by the kindness that people from Mongolia and China showed to the two strangers, Rob and Leon, and it made me think of how cold and unapproachable the Westerners are in so many cases. I could not believe the way native people would offer these two places to sleep and give them their best beds, or that they would share their food with them. It really teaches me a lesson on humbleness and offering from the little you have. I am sure they were repaid tenfolded afterwards.
It is a great read and I absolutely recommend it to those who are interested in the implications of such an expedition and how two people got on with spending so much time walking through welcoming and unwelcoming settings, through temperatures ranging from minus to plus.
I was floored by the kindness that people from Mongolia and China showed to the two strangers, Rob and Leon, and it made me think of how cold and unapproachable the Westerners are in so many cases. I could not believe the way native people would offer these two places to sleep and give them their best beds, or that they would share their food with them. It really teaches me a lesson on humbleness and offering from the little you have. I am sure they were repaid tenfolded afterwards.
It is a great read and I absolutely recommend it to those who are interested in the implications of such an expedition and how two people got on with spending so much time walking through welcoming and unwelcoming settings, through temperatures ranging from minus to plus.
January 3, 2015
It wasn't an action filled page turner about two super fit guys gliding effortlessly through the Gobi desert & across China. No, Lilwall manage to honestly describe that 6 months of walking for around 12-15 hours a day is an adventure packed with frustration, pain and even boredom. But reading it, it wasn't . If Lilwall's aim to write the book was to inspire readers to become 'adventurers' , well then he succeded with me.
November 17, 2014
Glimpses into the daily life of people in Mongolia and China were fascinating. I thought the adventure part of the book was silly, though, and the adventurers seemed very self-absorbed. They are walking "home" only because they chose to go far away and then walk home.
December 26, 2014
Better than doing it myself...lol
June 20, 2025
I confess to having never before read a travelogue. I hadn't bothered because I feel pinched and uncomfortable from having to sit in other people's family rooms, pretending to be entranced by their slide shows of their summer vacation. They could have gone to the ninth circle of hell and still managed to instill yawn after yawn. Boring people recount boring stories, despite where they've been.
This author is intriguing, though I'm not sure I'd like him if I met him in person. He admits he's ego driven, and his lack of attention to his travelling partner reflects how unimportant other people are to him. He barely notices the travelling partner who suffered incredible deprivation, danger, loneliness, terror and Rob Lilwall himself!
However, this is a fascinating story. A professional travel writer happened to give this to me. In typical traveller fashion, she was unloading her stuff. One thing I love is a book that's been marked up by someone who underlines and comments, so this book gave me additional incentive to find it compelling.
The thought of such a ridiculously long hike, through unknown territory, much of it unpeopled and desert like, despite the cold, struck me as a crazy. Camping in the bitter cold, especially in two separate tents, with nothing to provide heat already puts me off. They had to dance first thing in the morning to get the chill out of their bones. Then trudge, dragging and carrying heavy equipment through the empty wilds of Mongolia, though they could at least ditch their wagon once inside China. Added to the items they needed for survival was recording equipment, because not only were they wandering off into oblivion, they weren't earning salaries for many months, so they were dependent on selling their story to news sources.
At one point, they have "only" 2,292 miles to go, and are following a path along the Yellow River, which is roaring with giant shards of ice, some as big as mini-busses. There'd be no surviving taking a splash into that. But the path peters out, so they push through on a scree covered slope, a cliff high above them and the river down below. Walking on scree, on a slope, is like walking on marbles on a slanted board. And stones were randomly dropping from the cliff above. Yow.
Not only were they held back by their less than perfect understanding of Mandarin, they were also unaware of cultural norms. At one point they cheerfully wave and film what they assume is a festival, though they notice the people look sad. It takes them a while to see that what they're intruding on is actually a funeral.
In addition to their language and culture difficulties, they are hampered by their assumption they could reach bank machines along the way. Yes, there were bank machines but they weren't meant for international accounts. So they went hungry, a lot.
Lilwall describes their tedium as "... we moved forward like two pre-programmed robots. One foot in front of the other, left, right, left, right. Each day followed a similar pattern. We woke, we gulped down instant coffee, we walked, we ate, we collapsed." You might think a reader would want to quit this book, but no. It's so compelling you are on that trail with them, stuck, and hoping to survive the ordeal.
The relationship between the author and photographer makes for an interesting read, although the author holds back details. I picture a laconic man who avoids people, so simply doesn't think to describe someone else. Yet despite this somewhat shallow attitude, the author does go into the history of how the British East India Company managed to break China's strength back in the Victorian era. They strategically introduced opium so they'd have a more malleable, weak population to steal from.
This is a great book to read in the comfort of a soft chair with a blanket over your lap. Not being an adventurer, and loathing cold, hunger, deprivation and fear, I quite enjoyed taking this trip with them, safely and vicariously.
This author is intriguing, though I'm not sure I'd like him if I met him in person. He admits he's ego driven, and his lack of attention to his travelling partner reflects how unimportant other people are to him. He barely notices the travelling partner who suffered incredible deprivation, danger, loneliness, terror and Rob Lilwall himself!
However, this is a fascinating story. A professional travel writer happened to give this to me. In typical traveller fashion, she was unloading her stuff. One thing I love is a book that's been marked up by someone who underlines and comments, so this book gave me additional incentive to find it compelling.
The thought of such a ridiculously long hike, through unknown territory, much of it unpeopled and desert like, despite the cold, struck me as a crazy. Camping in the bitter cold, especially in two separate tents, with nothing to provide heat already puts me off. They had to dance first thing in the morning to get the chill out of their bones. Then trudge, dragging and carrying heavy equipment through the empty wilds of Mongolia, though they could at least ditch their wagon once inside China. Added to the items they needed for survival was recording equipment, because not only were they wandering off into oblivion, they weren't earning salaries for many months, so they were dependent on selling their story to news sources.
At one point, they have "only" 2,292 miles to go, and are following a path along the Yellow River, which is roaring with giant shards of ice, some as big as mini-busses. There'd be no surviving taking a splash into that. But the path peters out, so they push through on a scree covered slope, a cliff high above them and the river down below. Walking on scree, on a slope, is like walking on marbles on a slanted board. And stones were randomly dropping from the cliff above. Yow.
Not only were they held back by their less than perfect understanding of Mandarin, they were also unaware of cultural norms. At one point they cheerfully wave and film what they assume is a festival, though they notice the people look sad. It takes them a while to see that what they're intruding on is actually a funeral.
In addition to their language and culture difficulties, they are hampered by their assumption they could reach bank machines along the way. Yes, there were bank machines but they weren't meant for international accounts. So they went hungry, a lot.
Lilwall describes their tedium as "... we moved forward like two pre-programmed robots. One foot in front of the other, left, right, left, right. Each day followed a similar pattern. We woke, we gulped down instant coffee, we walked, we ate, we collapsed." You might think a reader would want to quit this book, but no. It's so compelling you are on that trail with them, stuck, and hoping to survive the ordeal.
The relationship between the author and photographer makes for an interesting read, although the author holds back details. I picture a laconic man who avoids people, so simply doesn't think to describe someone else. Yet despite this somewhat shallow attitude, the author does go into the history of how the British East India Company managed to break China's strength back in the Victorian era. They strategically introduced opium so they'd have a more malleable, weak population to steal from.
This is a great book to read in the comfort of a soft chair with a blanket over your lap. Not being an adventurer, and loathing cold, hunger, deprivation and fear, I quite enjoyed taking this trip with them, safely and vicariously.
April 16, 2019
Maybe I'm a little biased about this book, but I enjoyed the clarity with which Lilwall writes. He's definitely expanded my view on travel writing and I hope one day to write a book in the same genre using a similar style. Reading more books about Mongolia has definitely made me appreciate my time here, as I feel I can relate to others who have had similar experiences and have seen the things I've seen, although this book takes place in Eastern Mongolia and through the Gobi, and I live in the far West, I feel Mongolia is still such an underrated place so seeing any literature out there about this country makes me excited. I also recently was recommended the book Hearing Birds Fly about someone who lived in a small village in Western Mongolia, and actually in my Province as well, so I will have to pick that one up next! I hope to read more and educate myself more about travel writing this year.
July 22, 2017
This is not one of the best travel books I've read. Most of it described sore feet, blisters, and eating noodles. As I was reading about the sore feet and blisters I kept thinking to myself "Gee - you're walking three thousand miles. Isn't it obvious that you're going to get sore feet and blisters?" Sometimes it's best to forget about the pain and concentrate on the journey.
The travel books that I like the best are the ones that talk about the history of the places and describe the scenery and the people a bit more. Rob does this in his book, but not quite as much as I would have liked him too.
I'm glad that Rob and Leon made things up in the end. I've known people who stopped talking to each other for years because of something trivial. They never did resolve their issues in the end because either they were both too stubborn to take the first step at reconciliation or one of them died before the issues could be resolved. It's never good to let things get to this point.
The travel books that I like the best are the ones that talk about the history of the places and describe the scenery and the people a bit more. Rob does this in his book, but not quite as much as I would have liked him too.
I'm glad that Rob and Leon made things up in the end. I've known people who stopped talking to each other for years because of something trivial. They never did resolve their issues in the end because either they were both too stubborn to take the first step at reconciliation or one of them died before the issues could be resolved. It's never good to let things get to this point.
August 30, 2022
From November 14, 2011 to May 26, 2012, adventurer Rob Lilwall and cameraman Leon McCarron walked south from Sainshand, Mongolia to Hong Kong. This is Rob account of their travels and the people they met. It's a good read that reads relatively quick. The writing style is enjoyable and doesn't bog down much. The trek leads them through the Gobi and along the Great Wall and down past the Yellow River and the Yangtze. It's a decent book and, while it doesn't get very deep into either historical or modern political China, it's definitely worth checking out if your interested in this region of the world.
March 25, 2019
It took me almost 3 weeks to finish this book cos I got back to work and it has been a few weeks of busyness and I don’t get as much time as I would like to spend on reading. Nevertheless, it has been an insightful read into a little bit about China and her people. Can imagine the arduous trek through the desert and the challenges faced along the way as they traversed across China. What resonated with me most was that of Rob missing his wife Christine and his on and off arguments with his traveling partner, Leon. It reminds me to live out my dreams and to help others in the process.
July 13, 2020
Disappointing, reading this book I learnt very little about China, I think reading an atlas would have done the same job. The included maps of the journey were the best part of the book. There was too much on sore feet, blisters etc., I suppose the life of a walker. All well and good but this book is marketed as a travel book. It also has the predictable, dull and clichéd mini-potted history of the PRC. Why do publishers think they are required to do so?
I was very disappointed. I wouldn't recommend it.
I was very disappointed. I wouldn't recommend it.
September 7, 2023
Walking Home From Mongolia: Ten Million Steps Through China, From the Gobi Desert to the South China Sea ** Read in Terelj National Park, Mongolia (August 2023)
https://roblilwall.com/tv-books/walki...
https://roblilwall.com/tv-books/walki...
April 15, 2018
This is a great book. I’ve seen people mark this book down for being too much about Rob and Leon but they walked 3,000 miles so, as well as the history and culture of China, it’s going to be about human endurance. Rob writes honestly and with a great balance of narration, stories, history and the physical and mental challenges that they face.
July 21, 2019
Fabulous book. Adventurer’s Rob Lillwall and Leon McCarron walk 3000 miles from Mongolia to Hong Kong. This adventure is written with just the right amount of detail; not one boring bit. Lots of additional information about the area and a great insight to the people of Mongolia and China. Will definitely read Robs other book and Leon’s books about their other adventures.
July 23, 2022
Had Leon down as a bit of a bullshitter already. Rob isn't so keen on the tall stories, but this adventure could have been fleshed out without resorting to that. A little more on the motivation and the landscape might have helped. Not much here to make me want to visit either Mongolia or China, to inspire me to walk a long way or even to wallow in someone else's misery.
December 8, 2024
I've read this a couple times now and he really does write well and capture the ever-changing landscape and people of Mongolia and China. However, Cycling Home from Siberia remains the better read of Rob Lilwall's books, so if you have space for just one on your bookshelf I would go for his ride with Al!
April 6, 2023
3.5*s (if that were possible). I am fascinated by China and love an endurance test… but I found Rob’s tone sometimes patronising (“girl’s disease” - even if joking) and felt like the attitude was march through China (on motorways, to a schedule) vs. see the country whilst walking.
September 3, 2023
A great armchair read
This is a can't put down travel log about walking though an area of the world most people don't see. I really enjoyed hearing about the people met along the way.
This is a can't put down travel log about walking though an area of the world most people don't see. I really enjoyed hearing about the people met along the way.
December 29, 2023
Good holiday read. Something a very long walk is always inspiring! Would agree that as the journey went on you get the impression they are purely grinding the miles out but perhaps that’s to be expected. Appreciated the broader faith perspective too.
June 17, 2017
Interesting learning about a part of the world I know nothing about, their relationship, the hardship but it must have been so dull for them ..... Hope it was worth it?
August 8, 2017
Your typical adventure/explorer book. Compelling, well-written, exciting at times, thoughtful at others. Recommended.
February 19, 2018
Adventurous and brings more real life; nothing added I find to spice the story but quite educational instead.
May 8, 2020
What an experience to walk all that distance in all types of weather. Most Chinese along the way were very accomodating and kind.
August 26, 2020
Laugh a out while reading it. They are extraordinary, and yet fool sometimes....
May 2, 2023
A great adventure in book form!
Displaying 1 - 30 of 48 reviews