Mensun Bound has written a wonderfully gripping and engaging account of his time as the Director of Exploration in the hunt for the Endurance, Shackleton's legendary ship lost to the ice of the Weddell Sea in 1915.
We follow Bound on both the 2019 & 2022 expeditions. The former does start to feel repetitive towards the end of the mission, though that's more due to the nature of the dives than as a criticism of Bound's writing, as it consists of sending down an autonomous underwater vehicle (AUV), moving the ship ahead to reach it when it resurfaces a few hours later whilst receiving no real-time information on whether it has found the wreck. Thankfully, Bound's writing is varied and engaging enough to more than compensate for this slight lag, being able to pull from multiple sources into a well-balanced and engaging narrative. We have the technical aspect of the modern-day expedition and the more personal interactions between the science teams and crew, as well as the corresponding events from the Endurance expedition itself, and his history as a marine archaeologist working on other wrecks. I particularly loved the accounts of how the Endurance’s captain Frank Worsley managed to navigate to Elephant Island and then South Georgia in the most deranged conditions and Bound is able to pull from both published and unpublished diaries to really build up a sense of what things were like for the men. He also isn’t afraid to show them in a not so pleasant light, such as Shackleton refusing to recommend carpenter Chippy McNish for the Polar Medal, or the crew’s frankly horrendous treatment of Orde-Lees.
Despite the repetition, the 2019 expedition still manages to build a sense of discomfort that even with the technology and skill of the team things just keep going wrong, as whilst technical prowess of the Agulhas II and modern icebreakers are amazing, we are left in no doubt as to the dangers of the Weddell Sea. Ice closes in and almost traps them, AUVs vanish under the ice, and vehicle cables break and have to be re-tethered by other craft. The feeling is further exacerbated by asides on the effects of climate change on Antarctica, such as the loss of the Larsen B ice shelf, and the effect of the potential collapse of interoceanic currents. The 2022 expedition in contrast has a brilliant building sense of anticipation. Given the photo on the back cover it’s not a spoiler to point out that they do indeed find the Endurance, and with each pass of the underwater vessel (now thankfully sending up information in real-time) he really manages to give a sense of the anticipation and the stress as they slowly home in on the co-ordinates of the wreck, especially as Bound acknowledges that given his age this will be the last chance he gets he find the Endurance.
It isn’t all heavy stuff though, as there are still fun asides, such as popping to the shop for souvenir patches on King George Island (even in the Antarctic you can never beat a good souvenir shop), and there are plenty of characters in both the Agulhas II’s crew and the science team. Bound memorably describes the Endurance wreck as the “pre-eminent submerged tease of our times”, and old ice is described by the mate with the serious technical terms of “some pretty badass stuff”. My favourite moment has to be when the Endurance is finally found and “Jim was so overwhelmed that he almost felt the room spin around him. ‘Sexy picture’, was all he could think to say.” Clearly, a man after my own heart.
Bound’s also able to turn a moving turn of phrase. Antarctica is the kind of landscape that few of us will get to see in person, and he’s able to give a sense of the beauty of it, not just the danger.
“It seems almost as if we had trespassed into some polar hidey-hole where the gods go to drain their rainbows. Bends, spills and blushes were all draped with cloud and punctuated by silhouettes of bergs thousands of years old. Nobody said a thing.”
As well as:
“You sit there, alone in the dark with your thoughts, looking out over the bow into a vast ocean you can barely see. Your feelings swell and heave with the vessel. To me it is almost spiritual and, if ever I doff my agnosticism, I know that it will be on the bridge of a ship at night that I find my path to God.”
Where this really pays off is in the description of Shackleton’s death. I’m not one for co-incidences, but finding the Endurance a hundred years to the day of Shackleton’s burial, potentially even down to the hour, is certainly a bizarre one. On their way back to civilisation after finding the Endurance the team make a stop at South Georgia to visit his grave, and I’d be lying if I said I didn’t tear up a bit at Bound’s speech to the team from the graveside:
“As I stand here beside his grave with all of you, dear friends, crew and team, it occurs to me that in all Shackleton’s expeditions into danger, which he himself led, the only life he lost was his own.”
Despite this, there are definitely a few niggles that I could point out. At the minor end, it’s a shame that there isn’t a map of the 2019/2022 expeditions, only of the path of the Endurance herself. It might be that as the movement of the Agulhas II was dependant on the leads in the ice that a map of her movement might become too much of a mess to read, as Shackleton said there are no straight lines when dealing with the ice, but as there so many mentions of islands/parts of Antarctica early in the book it would be nice to see them placed in the larger context.
On the more serious end, there’s a lack of context that caused me to bump it down to four stars. We go from Bound discussing with a friend in Café Nero how he’d like to find the Endurance, to meeting up with the robotics team, to setting off from South Africa with very little connecting tissue. The 2019 expedition was not just about finding the Endurance but also had various scientific researchers completing their own projects, but how they all came together (and often what they are doing) is also unclear. At the opposite end of the expedition there are also a lot of interesting questions about what happens to the wreck now she has been found, particularly around ownership and salvage/research that would have been nice to discuss in more detail, even if they were only hypothetical.
Nevertheless, Bound still gives a wonderful account of the discovery of the Endurance, even if he ironically wasn’t on the ship at the time, having popped off for a stroll along the ice when she was finally found!