Maria Coletta McLean continues the story she began in her first book, “My Father Came From Italy” in this slim delightful volume. It is the story of establishing a second home in Supino Italy where her father was born and spent his childhood before emigrating to America. She and her husband Bob bought a piece of real estate sight unseen which required extensive renovations and when they were finally completed, her father was able to spend some of his last days in the village, reminiscing about past times.
After her father’s death a short time after returning to Canada, Maria and Bob continued to spend a part of every year vacationing in Supino, working on the house and enjoying life in this small charming village. When they were in Canada, they prepared for future visits by studying Italian so they could communicate better with their Supinese friends and extended family. Bob loved Italy so much he wanted to spend even more time there and talked about the possibility of opening a coffee bar.
Their vacations were enjoyable but they had little time on their own to explore the countryside and take side trips to the beautiful coastal areas. It seemed that everyday someone was making plans for them. When Maria complained they had little time to explore the countryside, Joe who looked after the house when they were in Canada, once again offered a simple solution: “Maria”, he said, “just stay here longer”!
McLean shares a number of anecdotes about their vacations including the day they sat in the car for half an hour while a herd of sheep changed pastures. And then there were all the frustrating times they had trying to find their way around the countryside where there were few if any signs. Once again when she asked about it, the answer was simple: "Who needs signs? Everyone already knows where they are going and where everything is. They don’t need signs"!
McLean also describes the endless number and variety of festivals. It seems there is always one that has just happened, is happening now or is about to happen and Maria wonders how many such a small village can glorify and honour. There are festivals to celebrate watermelon, artichokes, figs, fettuccine, and even a day to mark the hottest day of the year, always on August 15th, when everyone packs a picnic lunch, leaves the village and heads to the mountains! The dates of the festivals are never advertised of course, because there is no need -- everyone just knows the date. And they are quickly organized with food, souvenirs, music and late night fireworks. Anyone can set up a stall because there are no vendor permits, special licenses or food inspectors. And the festival days present a crush of people, strangers that come to town and push their way through the narrow streets. At times the noise can be deafening, but the young people really enjoy it.
McLean conveys remarkable images of the huge markets with fresh foods and an unending variety of products. She describes being able to smell the peaches before she can see them and handling lemons the size of grapefruits. There are wheels of Parmigiano and triangles of Romano cheese, sliced prosciutto, fresh roasted peanuts and crocks of olives, some in brine or olive oil, some with whole chilies and others with black peppercorns. Apart from all the delicious food, the markets carry a large variety of other goods. Whatever you need, can be found, from religious candles, bolts of cloth, nuts and screws, goat’s bells and bocce balls to bottles of hair dye. It is in these passages that MacLean’s writing shines. She has the ability to bring you right to the market stalls, admiring the wide variety of goods and the chubby purple eggplants, the slim shiny zucchini and the piles of prickly artichokes.
McLean details how food is a central theme of life, something around which life is organized and enjoyed, but in a different way than in her native Canada. She describes how the restaurants never have menus and what is on offer each day comes from a litany of items offered by your waiter. But if you are wondering in advance what you may be able to eat on any particular day, it is simple, just look in the gardens, it is all there. You eat what you grow of course!
Life is so simple and different in Supino and time moves at a leisurely pace. People wander through the streets, calling up to their neighbours and people they know sitting in open windows. From there, they have a daily chat about the weather, local gossip, the children and the food that is being prepared for the day. And Maria and Bob find it wonderful that they seldom need to buy groceries. Everyone gives them food – fresh eggs, figs, sausages and vegetables from their gardens. Some just left on their doorstep.
Once again what makes McLean’s writing enjoyable is her ability to describe a place so well that readers feel transported to this small charming village and slowly immerse themselves in the Supinese life. You can almost taste the sips of cappuccino and smell the fresh bread. And as evening approaches, you can put yourself in a place where you are gazing from an open window past the terra cotta roofs to see the beech trees in the distance.
Regretfully this is all interrupted when Bob is diagnosed with an aggressive cancer and despite undergoing long, difficult treatment never regains his health. Once Maria has lost two of the most important people in her life, she wonders what Supino will be like with remembrances of both her father and husband everywhere. But she is a strong woman who keeps moving forward and she continues to spend time there, enjoying it as she always had in the past. But she is already noticing the changes that have come with the passage of time. Fewer people in the village know each other by name and stop to chat. Some of the small quaint little shops have disappeared, replaced by a mall a short distance away. Plastic bags are replacing the familiar old canvas ones used for years to carry purchases home. Styrofoam cups have replaced the ceramic ones and in some places escalators are beginning to replace old stone steps. Although some of the old world charm is gradually disappearing, it is still a beautiful place filled with wonderful memories, some of them happy and some of them sad.
This is a lovely little book, a nice follow-up to the story McLean began in “My Father Came From Italy” and an interesting read for anyone thinking of visiting that part of Italy. It is also a personal tribute to her husband Bob, the love of her life, who had immersed himself in the Italian lifestyle and enjoyed every day he spent in Supino. It was a very enjoyable read.