There was so much satisfaction to be had in the kitchen cooking up a vegetarian Polish-inspired menu from Michal Korkosz’s new cookbook Polish’d. He’s got a fantastic, award-winning website (Rozkoszny–”delightful” in Polish) and is a food columnist and recipe developer living in Warsaw. His first book, Fresh From Poland, explored vegetarian interpretations of traditional Polish food, but in Polish’d he explores the more multicultural Polish traditions of his native Warsaw, “a cultural melting pot where you can taste flavours from all over.” I’ve always associated Polish cooking with tending towards meat-heavy, but apparently Warsaw is a vegetarian paradise. Who knew?
He writes, “On one hand, these recipes are a modern, vegetarian take on long-established Polish recipes, but on the other, they’re infused with flavors and ingredients brought to Poland by immigration and globalization throughout history. Some people may call this fusion, but I'd rather think of it as the natural integration of global flavors and ingredients into Polish cuisine that has come to pass over time.”
Korkosz has divided his book into chapters based on cooking technique, from Raw to Panfried, and he even has a Fermented & Preserved section! There’s a handy section on the modern Polish pantry too.
The recipes:
Crunchy Broccoli and Hazelnuts with Grapes, Apples, and Spicy Honey Dressing
In his introduction to this recipe, Korkosz says, “I was nineteen years old when I learned that broccoli can be eaten raw. It’s the total opposite of the watery, overcooked, faded green broccoli of the school cafeteria.” Personally, I grew up with raw broccoli on veggie trays, and dipped the spears liberally in ranch dressing. Mmmm, good times. I love the vegetable every which way. This was a new broccoli adventure, though. Broccoli with grapes and apples? Not so sure. But the combo of all of these amazing foods was fantastic. The Spicy Honey Dressing brought it all together. So many tastes at once! It was a new way for me to serve broccoli and everyone loved it.
Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Miso Bagna Cauda
LIke Korkosz’s experience with soggy broccoli, soggy Brussels sprouts were my childhood Christmas dinner delight. I didn’t hate them, but they’re not going to win any awards (sorry, Mom!). The wonders of beautifully cooked, crispy, well-seasoned Brussels sprouts are a revelation. I’ve had some pretty great takes on the vegetable in restaurants, and my own roasted sprouts are a winter dinner staple at our house, but Korkosz claims his recipe serves up “the world’s best Brussels sprouts.” The main oomph factor here is bagna cauda, an Italian dipping sauce that is eaten akin to a fondue, with veg for dipping. It features anchovies, so miso subs in here. I’d never heard of it. I prepared the sprouts, added toasted panko, some sunflower seeds and this magnificent miso bagna cauda and tossed it. It was amazing! Salty, sharp and very umami. I’m going to have to side with Korkosz here, I think these may just be the best Brussels sprouts around, and I made them in my own kitchen, not a high end restaurant.
Pearl Barley Salad with Pickled Red Onion, Fennel, and Szafir Cheese
I find barley so satisfying. It’s something about the bite, the mouthfeel and how hearty a grain it seems. I don’t eat it nearly enough, so when I saw this salad I was drawn to it. Quick-pickling red onion was a new skill for me, which proved simple and added a great crunch. Korkosz calls for slicing a lemon and stir-frying it with fennel. I wasn’t clear: should I leave the peel on the lemon? A quick peek at the picture of the finished dish advised me that I should. It seemed risky, but came out mild and lemony without bitterness. Finally, I substituted feta cheese for the Szafir because I couldn’t find it. This salad was easy, delicious and filling. It would make a great meal on its own, or prove a perfect potluck dish.
Salted Szarlotka (Apple Pie) with No-Churn Brown Butter Ice Cream
This apple pie was a conundrum. There were a lot of steps to make it: the crust, the apples, the ice cream (which had a few steps in itself). I loved learning the no-churn ice cream technique, and while it wasn’t the same as regular ice cream, it was pretty close, and very tasty. I’d never browned butter, so check off another new technique. When I put it together and served the dessert, it tasted great but the pie didn't hold together well. The top of the crust seemed more like a crumble, and the bottom was a tad soggy. Finally, the sweet ice cream with the sweet pie together was probably a bit too rich. But every bit tasted amazing! Over the next week I ate all the pie and ice cream, and savoured every last bite. A bonus: the whole process of browning the butter, cooking the salted brown butter crust and the apples produced a heavenly smell. Korkosz loves the smell of this dessert so much that he went to a Warsaw perfumery and had these scents made into his own signature perfume.
What a modern Polish vegetarian cooking adventure! I had so much fun with this cookbook, and there are a lot of recipes that I want to try, particularly from his Fermented & Preserved section. In Polish’d, Korkosz has given us a great book for the vegetarian shelf.
“At the end of the day, cooking is an invitation to fantasize–to push boundaries–and is only limited by your imagination…In this cookbook, I celebrate my Polishness, and my goal is to honor my heritage in the best way I know how–through food.”
Thanks to The Experiment Press and NetGalley for a digital ARC.