In Search of Berlin

by John Kampfner

No other city has had so many lives, survived so many disasters and has reinvented itself so many times. No other city is like Berlin.

Ever since John Kampfner was a young journalist in Communist East Berlin, he hasn't been able to get the city out of his mind. It is a place tortured by its past, obsessed with memories, a place where traumas are unleashed and the traumatised have gathered.

Over the past four years Kampfner has walked the length and breadth of Berlin, delving into the archives, and talking to historians and writers, architects and archaeologists. He clambers onto a fallen statue of Lenin; he rummages in boxes of early Medieval bones; he learns about the cabaret star so outrageous she was thrown out of the city.

Berlin has been a military barracks, industrial powerhouse, centre of learning, hotbed of decadence - and the laboratory for the worst experiment in horror known to man. Now a city of refuge, it is home to 180 nationalities, and more than a quarter of the population has a migrant background. Berlin never stands still. It is never satisfied. But it is now the irresistible capital to which the world is gravitating.

In Search of Berlin is an 800-year story, a dialogue between past and present; it is a new way of looking at this turbulent and beguiling city on its never-ending journey of reinvention.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Germany, Travel, Audiobook, Politics, Cultural

416 pages, Paperback

First published October 5, 2023

About the author

John Kampfner is an author, commentator, broadcaster and journalist. From 2008 to 2012 he ran Index on Censorship, from 2005 to 2008 he was editor of the New Statesman, and before that he worked for the Financial Times, the BBC and the Telegraph. He is a regular pundit and presenter for all channels on politics and foreign affairs and the author of four previous books. - from publishers Allen and Unwin

Reviews

[Stephen · Rating 3 out of 5]

interesting book at the history of Berlin from founding to the modern day

[Mathi Fonseca · Rating 5 out of 5]

An absolute must-read for any "Berliner". I love this city since the day I set foot on it, but also since that moment I've been trying to understand it. At any step in these streets, you can feel the layers of history trying to tell you a story. However, there's so much going on, that they don't know where they fit in all of it. Does anyone even know? This book has just increased my understanding to a new level, and also increased my list of pending things to learn more about!

[Verena Wachnitz · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating book about a fascinating city. The author takes the reader on a tour of Berlin’s main sites and its complex history in a seamless and engaging way.

[Marguerite Kaye · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fabulous five star read.
Last week I realised a long-held ambition to visit Berlin. I bought this book to read beforehand, but only reached the Weimar Republic section before I set off on my visit. I’ve never visited such an extraordinary city, and I had added to my list of ‘must do’s’ a number of things from John Kampfner’s book. There wasn’t enough time to do half of them but I did seek out the Kaethe Kollwitz bronze of a mother cradling her son in the Neue Wache, and wow, I’m so glad I did.
What struck me overall about Berlin (to a degree I bored my sister and friend who were with me rigid, saying it over and over again) is that it’s a city that manages to look forward, but which is owning up to its very turbulent past. It seems I’m not alone thinking this. In the words of John Kampfner, ‘It is the city that continues to think hard about its difficult past, and how that past influences the future’. And that’s what this fabulous book is all about. It takes Berlin as a character, it looks at how it was formed, and it analyses how its history and experiences have influenced the city it is today, and how it is driving its future personality too.
This is a personal history – as in, it treats Berlin like a person. It’s a city of extremes, the home of the Third Reich, and the divided city of East and West. In between though, it’s been a city of culture, a place which has needed and encouraged immigrants, a city that has always offered new beginnings – and that continues to do so. It’s a changing city, it has multiple aspects to its non-cohesive identiy. In Germany, Berlin is seen as the exception, a ‘different’ city, a non-conformist, for good or bad.
And this book demonstrates just how all of that happened. It takes history in a linear way, but it diversifies, jumping into the present from the past, continually putting the past in context, explaining, questioning, and above all, inviting you in. The descriptions of the obscure and famous places, the love that the author has for the city, and his unashamed desire to say look, look how amazing this is, while at the same time (like Berlin itself) being willing to show it to you, warts, tragedy, horrors and all. It’s history, but it’s also as if Berlin has been put on the psychologist’s couch, and all it’s raison d’etre laid bare.
I finished the book a few days after returning from my visit. I’m already wanting to go back. This was an absolutely wonderful read. Highly recommended.

[Nathaniel Flakin · Rating 2 out of 5]

I respect the ambition of anyone who attempts to tell Berlin's story in one volume, and this book starts promisingly. In the first two chapters, the author visits Berlin's City Palace and Wittstock's Museum of the Thirty Years' War to present current debates about Berlin's early history. Soon enough, however, the manuscript switches to dry, uninspired, and rushed prose focussed largely on Great Men. To be fair, I know so little of Prussian history with all the Friedrichs, Wilhelms, and Friedrich Wilhelms that I probably benefited from this overview.

Any serious magazine will meticulously factcheck articles — yet despite what many readers assume, nothing similar happens with books. The constant barrage of factual errors here left me wondering if the publisher didn't have an intern with access to Wikipedia. A few random examples: In this book, Clara Zetkin becomes Jewish. Gustav Noske becomes "a master butcher by trade" (in reality he trained as a basketmaker and only became a "butcher" by massacring thousands of workers). The Lenin statue at Leninplatz is moved to the same spot as the Stalin statue on Stalinallee. Albert Speer's New Reich Chancellory becomes "brutalist" (in 1936?). The Ringbahn (Circle Line) is moved to the path of the old city walls. The Kaiser's abdication is brought forward to November 9.

For me, the most egregious error was confusing the events of June 2, 1967. There was a rally against the Shah of Iran around noon, where Iranian agents attacked protesters; then there was a different rally at the opera at eight in the evening, where police attacked protesters and shot one in the head. In this book, these two events get amalgamated into one. I could go on and on and on and on… but if the publisher didn't hire a fact checker, I don't want to do the job for free.

I understand that it's hard to double check so many historical facts, but you can't write a history book based on poorly remembered anecdotes. I appreciate how the author pushes back against today's frenzied hatred against immigrants, reminding readers that Berlin was built by wave after wave of refugees. In other places, however, he comes across as a grumpy old man making snarky comments about modern architecture.

I am probably not the right person to review this book, as most readers won't have spent more than a decade obsessing about these stories. Is it possible I'm a little jealous that this book has sold far more copies than my own Berlin book?

[Tony · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a really enjoyable and informative read. It covers the history of Berlin from its origins through to the present day and tries to explain what makes it a unique city. I think Kampfner does a good job on that, although initially I thought some of his claims could equally be made for other great 'world cities'.

What I think becomes clear is how regularly Berlin was reinvented. It was, for a long time, something of an isolated outpost but from the 18th century on it grew into something approaching a world city. It peaked probably pre-WW1. But had decades of pain and trauma to get through after that.

It is interesting that critics of Berlin use the type of language that critics of London do: 'it's not a German city...' But perhaps, like London was never really just an English city, Berlin was never just a German city.

Kampfner's really good at explaining the memorialisation of Berlin. Not just the Nazi era, but before and after.

I went to Berlin on a school trip in 1989. Months before the wall came down. We were even taken on a tour of East Berlin. So I got to go through Checkpoint Charlie. We weren't there for long, but the experience of the difference is a memory that I've never been able to shake off. I often what happened to the official East German tour guide we had.

This book is perfect for contextualisation Berlin within its history and its peoples. If I went to Berlin again - which I really want to - I'd take this book with me for a re-read.

[Translator Monkey · Rating 5 out of 5]

An outstanding read.

For some time, I'd been looking for a decent book providing a modern day history of Berlin, and I happened to stumble on two of them within months of each other - this one, as well as the equally excellent "Ghosts of Berlin". I couldn't have asked for better selections. Perfect.

[Mike Marshall · Rating 4 out of 5]

A brilliant concept to explain the history of Berlin and its people! A captivating read which I would recommend to anyone before traveling to Berlin.

[Louise · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a fantastic book about Berlin and its past, present and future. Written in a very accessible manner, which makes for very compelling reading.

[ciara · Rating 3 out of 5]

this was mostly a good general history of Berlin, a city i’ve wanted to visit for a long time now - it is very well researched, and it’s very detailed considering it’s not actually that long of a book. i especially enjoyed the parts where Berlin’s queer history and present were explored. however (and this is probably on me for expecting too much of a book so popular) despite fair and balanced accounts of working-class and leftist activity in Berlin’s earlier history, as the book moves on to discuss the GDR and East Berlin, the anti-communism becomes clear.

[Lucyh · Rating 5 out of 5]

Reading this following my first visit and just prior to my second was perfect timing. A very readable text and fascinating for anyone with a passing interest in History and/or travel. I found the continuing thread of the ever changing role of migration, rebellion, uprising and power in one city most interesting. I have chosen to visit some key locations from the book in my upcoming visit to Berlin.

[Nicola · Rating 5 out of 5]

Really enjoyed reading this book. I’ve not long returned from a few days in Berlin and next time I am there I will bring a copy of this book with me.

It is very good on the origins of the place and how it is still developing.

[Denise · Rating 4 out of 5]

Berlin's colourful, multifaceted 800-year history provides ample material for this wonderfully engaging portrait of a city that keeps reinventing itself.

[Caroline · Rating 4 out of 5]

Informative and thoughtful history of Berlin, including discussion of some of its lesser known monuments and some of the difficulties in addressing German history.

[Aleksandr Mikheev · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book that I bought a few months after I had got there. I was eager to learn the history of the city and if you are too, that’s the book you need. It’s jam-packed with facts, starting from the foundation of the city and until recent days.

At the same time, not all the facts will seem interesting for everyone. Thankfully, the author doesn’t often go too much into details on most of them, letting you do it yourself in your own time. However, there were exceptions, like the chapter totally dedicated to Humboldt Forum.

I’d say it wasn’t the most entertaining read in the world, I had to mix it with some short sci-fi stories to eventually get through, but I am not sure whether it is the problem of that particular book or just the plan and simple fact that I am not an avid history-books lover.

Anyway, a great work about a great city

[Nicholas Bland · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well researched and written, very absorbing. Very much feels like his particular view of Berlin, but feels personal as a result.

[Kimilo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Berlin is wild! This is a fantastic book outlining the history and the question what makes Berlin Berlin! Incredibly well done!

[Christopher Whalen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this book because I’m going to a talk with John Kampfner at the Oxford Literary Festival soon. I’d also read his earlier book, Why the Germans Do it Better. This is a mostly chronological history of Berlin told through its landmarks, museums, and memorials. It touches on subjects familiar from other histories I’ve read, including Rory MacLean’s Berlin: Imagine a City. (I wonder if they know each other and are friends or rivals.) I think it captures the spirit of the city quite well (from the little I know of it). It’s remarkable just how many memorials the city contains: they do not want to forget their past. The audiobook narration by the author is clear and easy to follow.

[Dean · Rating 2 out of 5]

John Kampfner’s Why The Germans Do It Better is one of my favourite books ever. It was one of the few books I kept when I moved countries.

However, unfortunately, In Search of Berlin was a big disappointment for me. There just didn’t seem to be any structure or order to the events discussed. I could not keep up with where we were in time at any given moment.

The chapters are ordered by time period, but they start with a quote from a different time period. The author would often jump to anecdotes from other time periods or from his own experiences in Berlin. Sometimes these anecdotes would end before reaching any convincing conclusion.

I wish this book could be organised more logically. I’m sure the author has enough great content for it, but it needs to be structured in a way that readers can follow it.

[Karen Levi · Rating 5 out of 5]

I must give the book five stars. The author has written a comprehensive history of Berlin, beginning in the 12th century. Of great interest to me was the Thirty Years War, since I had done a paper on the subject in high school. I certainly did not remember much from over fifty years ago. This war has remained the deadliest in European history, in terms of casualties and destruction of the continent.
The author arranged his book as a walking tour, trekking back and forth, from east to west and north to south, viewing historical sites. Mr. Kampfner, a former correspondent in East Berlin and Russia for The Telegraph, visited the places in chronological order which helped me understand the history. He interspersed anecdotes to keep the writing varied.

Additional history John Kampfner described and elaborated:

I learned about the Friederichs, I--IV, kings of Prussia. Friedrich the Great (III) seemed kinder and less militaristic than his father, the soldier-king. He ushered in an important era of migration into Germany, which built up the population. This king also encouraged cultural pursuits. He reigned from 1740-1786.

During the 18th century, Moses Mendelssohn, the famous Jewish philsopher, thrived and attained the status of "protected Jew." Essentially, he brought the Enlightenment to the Jews of Berlin. He colloborated with Gotthold Lessing, a German dramatist and philosopher. Mendelssohn translated the Torah into German and wrote highly acclaimed philosophical essays. Though this was a relatively good period for the "protected Jews," antisemitism was harsh for most.

The revolutions of 1848 throughout Europe represented the desire for social, political, and economic change. In Berlin, the uprisings were squashed immediately by King Friederich Wilhelm IV, and basic rights of all Berliners were abolished temporarily. Prussia--which was the strongest kingdom in what is now Germany--fought wars with its neighbors, Denmark, Austria, and France. Prussia managed to gain new territory. These battles enabled Bismarck to unify the separate German states.

In 1871, Germany was born. The King of Prussia became the Kaiser. The celebrations were elaborate and seen partly as a vindication for the defeat at the hands of Napoleon. Great strides in industry, especially the railroads, were the markers of the mid to late 19th century, as well as cultural achievements in art, literature, and music. Social awareness developed, and attempts were made to help the general public and the poor. A solid working class established itself during this period. This segment of the population formed the basis for the worker's revolts and the popularity of the Communist Party in the 1920's.

Well documented, World War I was disastrous for all involved. The people of Germany suffered greatly as a result of the Treaty of Versailles. The period after World War I, known as the Weimar Republic, was the epitome of excess, which ended with the Depression. Those with money enjoyed the excitement of nightclubs, jazz, dancing, and silent films--prostitutes, addicts, and the unemployed not so much. Homosexuals enjoyed a rare respite of relative freedom. The government was extremely unstable.

The remainder of the book dealt with the rise of Hitler and the Third Reich which is a subject well known to most readers (hopefully). Following World War II, Germany and Berlin were divided by the allies. That history should also be familiar, including the Cold War, the threat of nuclear catastrophe, the power of the Soviet Union, and the eventual fall of the latter in 1989-90.
Mr. Kampfner explored the attitude of Berliners which has evolved over the years. Similar to New York City, people love or hate the city, which is continuously changing in terms of architecture, neighborhoods, renovations, and monuments. The writer described sites that most tourists do not visit--railroad stops, quirky ruins, cemeteries, small museums, out-of-the-way eateries. He did not shy away from the numerious memorials to the victims of the Nazis and the Communists. This is a must read for anyone seriously interested in Berlin. I gained increased insight and learned of places to visit, eventhough I have been to Berlin several times.

[Songlin He · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reading the 18th century Prussia history helps me understand why there has been such a strong Russian influence inside Germany. Catherine the Great—well-known as a Russian ruler, less known as an ethnic German born in the Kingdom of Prussia—invited Germans to relocate to the Volga with tax incentives and free land. By the time these so-called "Volga Germans" and other ethnic Germans who had lived on Russian land for two centuries returned to Germany after 1988, they had become culturally Russian and felt like foreigners in their “motherland.” Many had limited knowledge of the German language, making them susceptible to Putin’s propaganda and prone to identifying with right-wing populist ideologies — which isn’t surprising, considering many were poorly educated, often felt isolated and were looked down on by mainstream German society. Given the significant number of these citizens in the EU’s most powerful economy, it’s easy to see how Putin has managed to perpetuate his influence in Europe — by spreading disinformation and backing populist parties across the continent.

Worse than that, Berlin has taken in so many Turkish people that it’s now the largest city for Turkish population outside Turkey. Don’t get me wrong — I don’t dislike Turkish people; in fact, I’m fascinated by their culture, and I appreciate that they are generally more secular compared to other Muslim communities. But when a German city becomes more non-German than it ever has, local people have good reason to feel betrayed by their own country, and the backlash is unavoidable.

It’s also depressing to read the history of Jews, which is really a history of suffering for many centuries — and now feels more relevant than ever. I recently saw the news that many Western countries' heads of state plan to “recognise” Palestine as a state. One will never know what happens behind the scenes or what backdoor deals are involved. I do wonder why so many people are comfortable living with false narratives and turning a blind eye to the actual victims.

I also feel disgusted by those who claim to be “pro-peace.” “Pro-peace” or “anti-war” is a very interesting position to be — in many cases, people claim it to appear neutral while actually dodging the issue. What does anti-war even mean? Does it mean they are against the regimes provoking war and using their children as human shields? Or does it mean they’re against those defending themselves, because it’s supposedly not fair to fight back the terrorists and the extreme radicals "disproportionately"? Whoever is reading this probably already has an answer in their mind. I can only hope that justice will come one day. But justice never arrives on its own — someone has to fight for it. And if there’s one thing that gives me hope, it’s knowing that Jewish people will never stop fighting for their existence and the justice they deserve.

Kampfner’s book did a good job of exploring, presenting and reflecting the Berlin and Berliners, that's exactly why it's worth reading.

[Jordi Martinez · Rating 5 out of 5]

For those who, like the author and me, love Berlin this book is a must-read. It is a personal view of the history of this city since it was founded from an experienced journalist and a long-time lover of the city, but I enjoyed much the “personal view” of it far more than anything historical you may very well learn elsewhere.

The style is very journalistic, easy to read and contemporary (the book was published in 2023). The author links present and past together inspired by every spot in Berlin he visits. This is what makes it more interesting than any regular history. Besides, the love the author feels for the city impregnates every page and makes that personal view I mentioned above even more personal, if that makes sense.

A work of love that Berlin lovers cannot miss.

[Bruce Harpham · Rating 5 out of 5]

I bought this book while visiting the Academic Bookstore in Helsinki, Finland. I started reading it while on a long coach bus trip to visit Berlin. I found the book to be quite engaging, especially the sections before 1800. The earlier history of Prussia (and the entities that predate Prussia) was fascinating. The city's "moment of glory" in the years around 1900-1914 was also striking. The later sections covering the 1914 to the present were more familiar but I still enjoyed it.

While the book reads like a history book, it is also a kind of walking tour. The author regularly visits museums, memorials and other sites in Berlin (and nearby areas) and recounts his experiences. I loved that he included the perspective of museum directors and other local experts to add to the story.

[Justin · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a great overview of the history of Berlin and the issues it faces today. Part travelogue, part informal history, we follow Kampfner in chronological order as he visits various sites (many memorials) and meets with various people and uses them to tell the tragic and idiosyncratic story of this dysfunctional city from its founding until 2023. One theme that regularly arises is just how many migrants have populated Berlin throughout its history, often deliberately sought out by the contemporary ruler, due to the city’s frequent underpopulation. A great introduction to the city!

[Morgan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very interesting insight into how Berlin presents itself as a city in the modern day. From its history, its people, to its architecture, its culture - Kampfner explores chapter by chapter why Berlin is such an extraordinary place to live/visit.

All of this is brought together in summary in the last brief chapter -I look forward to visiting Berlin this week for the first time!!

(As a whole, I prefer ‘Why the Germans do it better’ as a book, but nonetheless still very enjoyable in its own right!)

[Keith Burnett · Rating 5 out of 5]

Read this book if you want an insight into Europe’s most enigmatic city. Kampfner has done so much research and admits it was a difficult task. There is much to see and understand, so make notes if you want to visit Berlin and find things that the guide books do not include.. I personally do recommend it. Now I realise I missed so much when I was there and I have been three times including when the wall was still there.

There are some long tedious bits, but Kampfner does love his association with Berlin and Germany. As a non German nobody could do this better.

[Otter Kohl · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great, though shallow, overview of Berlin's history. Definitely feels like written by someone with a lot of love for the city but without a particular depth of knowledge. In particular, the author's off-hand remarks about modern Berlin feel bland and touristy, but the way he weaves different aspects of Berlin's history across time and geography makes up for it.

[Lieselot · Rating 4 out of 5]

Gelezen ter voorbereiding op een trip naar Berlijn. Zeker geen toeristische gids, maar ik had wel het gevoel dat ik de stad hierdoor beter kon aanvoelen. Goede anekdotes die het boek meer als een serie van kortverhalen laat aanvoelen dan als 'de grote geschiedenis van ...'. Erg graag gelezen, wel lang.

[cynthia long · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m sure this book is really fascinating.. sadly it was my book to fall asleep, so I missed probably 1/3 of it. From what I did hear, it offers a very thorough recap of how Berlin has come about, from relative insignificance and lack of charm, to the embodiment of a multicultural, liberal, free and open spirit. Might need to listen to this again tbh.

[David Evans · Rating 5 out of 5]

The author is engaging and generally brilliant. My one quibble is I am not quite sure whether it was a history book or travel guide. I almost think he could produce a companion (online?) travel guide so that you can find these various small museums, cemeteries or whatever. This would help link the geography of the city with its history.