I’m a pretty big Jamie Loftus fan, so I’m bummed I didn’t enjoy this as much as I was hoping to!
Raw Dog follows Loftus’s cross-country hot dog odyssey, in which she travels thousands of miles in the second-pandemic-summer of 2021 to try America’s most iconic dogs, accompanied by a cat, a dog, and a boyfriend she’s on the verge of splitting with. Incorporated throughout are bits of hot dog history, anecdotes and details from Loftus’s own life as of that moment (including the deteriorating state of her relationship and her father’s ongoing cancer battle), discussions of the many forms of capitalist violence that make the hot dog industry possible ranging from the slaughterhouse to the gentrification of hot dog stands, and the weird, horny, gross-out bodily humor that will be familiar to anyone who knows Loftus’s comedic work. If that sounds like a lot, it’s because it is.
Loftus is at her best when she turns her critical eye on one topic and explores it in detail. It’s why her Lolita podcast is (in my opinion) one of the best and most brilliant podcast series of the last five years or possibly ever—the episodic format allows her to laser in on one particular aspect of Lolita’s cultural legacy, and it’s incredibly effective.
Raw Dog isn’t Lolita, of course, but comparing the two makes it clearer what I think Raw Dog needed—focus. I think if Loftus stuck to one or two fewer topics than she did (the hot dog journey AND the deaths—animal and human—that allowed the hot dog industry to keep running during the pandemic, or the hot dog journey AND the personal struggles she was having at the time), she would have been able to treat each individual topic more effectively.
Raw Dog felt, ultimately, like a book in need of more editing, a fact that isn’t helped by the fact that Loftus writes in a voice extremely similar to the one she employs in her podcasts, with lots of little asides and run-on sentences. These are things that work in a conversation and less so in writing. Sometimes, Loftus’s sentence structure left me actually a little confused, and I had to reread the occasional sentence to make sure I understood it.
The best parts of Raw Dog (and there are good parts!) are when Loftus dives into one particular topic and let’s herself stay there. The section on the Nathan’s annual hot dog contest and examination of the gendered and racialized stereotypes underlying its structure and history is a great example of this, and it’s where Loftus’s talent shines.
Raw Dog, to me, ended up like a loaded chili dog with a soggy bun; there’s so much potential for something delicious, but ultimately there just may not be enough structural integrity to hold the whole thing together. You end up with a bit of a mess on your hands.