In her book, Afrocentric Style, Shirley Neal described the enormous influence that African Americans made on pop culture in the United States and included plenty of beautiful and telling photos to describe the impact. Black artists and their advocacy energized fashion. Remember the Black Panther Party uniform of black leather jackets and black berets? Their stylish look was duplicated in movies and magazines and worn by Michael Jackson and Beyoncé. In fact, many Black creators caused earthquake fashion change in the States and in Europe. For example, Virgil Abloh became the artistic director of Louis Vuitton men’s wear, and Patrick Kelly was the first American admitted to France’s Chambre syndicale du prêt-â-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode.
Neal dedicated several chapters to discuss Black hair. Why so much space? Because Black hair styles have been used to penalize, ostracize, fire, and belittle. Neal included photos of our beautiful African American celebrities in full bloom highlighting Black flair and grandeur: Angela Davis and Diana Ross with their bodacious Afros, Whoopi Goldberg in dreadlocks, and elegant Cicely Tyson with a shaved head and with intricate braids.
Black women won pageants when the American mainstream came to appreciate the beauty of Black features, curves, skin color, and skin tones. In 2018, African American women won the titles Miss Teen USA, Miss America, Miss USA, Miss Universe, and Miss World! Top fashion magazines, such as Vogue and Elle, featured Black models on their covers.
Throughout these years, as African Americans entered the top levels of fashion, music, sports, and creative arts, mainstream learned a dirty little American secret—police thuggery. Smart phones allowed everyone to witness the violence against Black adults and children at the hands of law enforcement. Of course, Blacks knew and lived this truth, but the phone videos told the world what it meant to live in the U.S. through an African American lens. In response to the documented racism, Black artists blended their work with advocacy, fusing art, music, and fashion to honor history and heroes. Celebrities used their platforms and challenged social narratives. Designers added activism to their artistic vision, transforming how we consider race and fashion today. Neal wrote her book to “help us appreciate Black culture, understand Black history, and tie us to our identity.” She accomplished this and more.
Having lived through the era Neal described, I appreciated her in-depth analysis of events and her well selected photos. This book will interest readers of all ages who want to know what and how Afro-American culture influenced America.