In this brilliant new book, one of the world’s leading restaurateurs shares wit and wisdom from a distinguished 40-year career and offers deep insight into some of life’s most intriguing issues.
'Wildly, warmly and wonderfully readable and revealing' Stephen Fry
'A true masterpiece that leaves you hungry for more' Jamie Oliver
'Charming, insightful'Observer
Jeremy King has spent fifty years pioneering London’s dining scene, hosting everyone from Princess Diana and Mick Jagger to Andy Warhol and Laurence Olivier. He opened the city’s most iconic and era-defining restaurants, including Le Caprice in the 80s, The Ivy in the 90s, The Wolseley in the 2000s, and now Arlington, The Park and Simpson’s in the 2020s. In this wonderfully entertaining memoir, he describes his life in hospitality with insightful anecdotes and well-earned wisdom.
Owing to the curious intimacy between restaurateur and guest, Jeremy has witnessed countless heartbreaks, failures, challenges and celebrations. His advice has been sought widely over the years, and here he gives a series of valuable reflections on everything from the art of a quick ‘no thanks’ to trickier dispute resolution. Restaurants are microcosms of life, and the skills learnt in hospitality – such as communication, empathy and discipline – can be profoundly beneficial for everyone.
Jeremy talks of the alluring mystery of solo diners, misperceptions about which are the best tables and why you should always look a waiter in the eye. Alongside the secrets of his one-of-a-kind restaurants, he also shares memories of stand-out guests like Lucian Freud, Harold Pinter and Lauren Bacall.
Without Reservation is the ultimate tell-all of a singular career guided by integrity, egality and authenticity.
Highly entertaining with some beautiful life lessons… If it’s not a yes, make it a quick no. Never justify - your friends won’t need it and your enemies won’t believe it. Even when I am certain I must give the benefit of the doubt.
There are few things finer than to be sat at a table in a beautiful restaurant, with wonderful food and excellent service. Over the course of my life, that has frequently been at an establishment owned by Jeremy King.
His memoir is a fascinating insight into the art of the restaurateur. The books is stuffed with anecdotes spanning the length of his career. It is clear he has rubbed shoulders with the greats of stage, screen, literature and a particular royal. The tribute to his relationship with Lucien Freud stands out as particularly touching.
I found myself highlighting a lot of words of wisdom on the art of hospitality and leadership. As a teacher I found there was actually a lot of parallels that I will seek to use in my own profession. There are some sections that feel a little like a lecture form M. Gustave from the Grand Budapest Hotel, but King is often totally correct in his conclusions of the proper way to do things.
If you love restaurants then this is essential reading.
Here’s the thing, the portfolio of Corbin and King restaurants (at least prior to King’s ousting in 2022) have been amongst my favourites. And they remain excellent, and largely unchanged, under a post-C&K ownership. So I am biased.
So to the book… Well, it is part autobiography, and part guidebook on how to do hospitality really well. Both halves, whilst fascinating, seem to fall strangely short. For instance, King lectures on the importance of detail and fully understanding a situation before you head into it. But then separately tells of a piece of work he did for IAG (the airline group) whilst thinking throughout that they were IHG (them of the hotels). He also shares his pet peeve, diners who, rather than converse with their guests, just regale them with anecdotes. Yet this book is broadly just a vast collection of anecdotes. Anomalies aside, I think it makes for compelling reading for anyone working in hospitality.
As to the more personal stuff, King’s restaurant empire was built with Chris, his business partner, hence Corbin and King. We learn how they got together, but little else. What did CC bring to the party, and where has he vanished to - as vanished he most certainly did/has - at least in this book. Ultimately the C&K empire was ‘forcibly’ taken from Jeremy King in 2022. But how? Why? There’s a passing reference to the other shareholding party (Minor) wanting to open a bunch of Wolseley’s (their flagship place) abroad, and JK not wanting to. In the end, King lost everything; and whilst he’s just about to open his third new restaurant since going solo, Minor have opened no new Wolseleys. Forgive me for concluding there was much more to it than King is sharing.
I sense that my review is much more about King and his restaurants than the book. But then some people have an opinion on a book, and some people don’t. Everyone, however, has an opinion when it comes to food.
Poignant life lessons. Some fascinating anecdotes about Pinter and Freud. Slightly self-aggrandising and lots of details skipped out (what happened when he sold his busiensses!? What about the chefs?!). What a remarkable man though!
Jeremy King is perhaps the classiest man alive. I asked a friend if they could name anyone classier; the late Queen clearly outstrips him; and Roger Federer is a close contender. But I would make the case for King.
Founder of several legendary London restaurants (the Wolseley, the Ivy, Simpson's, J. Sheekey), King exudes class. Much like taste, class is ill-defined and important (I don't refer to socioeconomic stratification, which King abhors.)
Obviously class includes sophistication and style, and King has these aplenty. He wears suits from one of the finest London tailors. When he wore casual clothes on a day off, a waiter dropped all their plates in shock. He is enormously well-read- Stefan Zweig and Arthur Schnitzler, as well as Bowen's The Heat of the Day and Powell's A Dance to the Music of Time. He's clearly one of the most well-connected people in London: Jamie Oliver and Stephen Fry lead the endorsements, and the pages include Princess Diana (a regular), Ralph Fiennes, Dawn French, Alan Rickman, Charles Saatchi, Bridget Riley, among many, many others. Harold Pinter writes a play about him; Lucian Freud paints and etches him. A truly impressive list.
And yet what shines through the pages is his egalitarianism, generosity and common decency. Single tables are to be treasured; he encourages people stood up on a date to stay, enjoy a quiet evening and read the paper. He has no patience for bullies, and is happy to eject drunkards in suits, bullying "celebrity dentists" and even Arnold Schwarzenegger and James Cameron when their bodyguard brings a gun. His staff are paramount; he is dismissive of dress codes and snobs who require it. "I am far more interested in a person's manners than I am in their clothing, and restaurant behaviour is one of the great revealers of character." Any sociopath can wear a tailored suit; class requires character.
An excellent story: "One of the greatest exponents of respect and egalitarianism, and one of the reasons I love her so much, is Ruthie Rogers of the River Cafe. Having tea with her and her grandaughter at The Wolseley I watched young Ivy, having ordered her cake, turn to her grandmother and say, "Brown". To which Ruthie nodded, congratulated her, and continued talking.
"What was brown?" I asked, and was told that Ivy had been taught that she could never order anything in a restaurant unless she could then say what colour the waiter's eyes were. It is something we could all learn from."
"Beware the old man in a profession where men usually die young". Oft said about knights in the medieval era, this could equally be applied to those in the restaurant industry, which is characterised by fast changes in fashion, brutal competition and zero barriers to entry. We should therefore listen when a grandmaster of the culinary scene, in this case Jeremy King, dispenses his wisdom.
And there are some gems in "Without Reservation". A particular highlight was King showing his thought process on dealing with customer theft of branded ashtrays from Le Caprice, which he estimated cost the restaurant £25k a year, not small beer in the industry. King inverts it (Munger would be proud) to think of it as marketing expense as all those little ashtrays would sit on mantlepieces or garden tables and remind customers to go back (he also notes the psychological impact of potential guilt on the decision process).
But aside from the hard-won knowledge on restaurants, where the book surprises is in its simple advice offered on life. As an example, King notes "Unless you are genuinely unsure, always make your ‘nos’ quick ones, because the seemingly kind ‘That’s an interesting idea–let me think about it’ only leads to false hope and agonising delays in telling the truth". There is much like this and more, all of it written in an easy and unpretentious manner.
In all, there is much to be learned from reading "Without Reservation", whether you are an aspiring restaurateur, an investor trying to evaluate what constitutes an edge in restaurants, or merely a frequent customer wanting to learn how to ingratiate yourself with the staff to get your preferred table.
Jeremy King is a dangerous man to know. Which is to say that so many of the people he name-checks in his memoir are - he tells us by way of what is almost a literary tic - no longer with us/gone too soon/passed away/juzst plain dead. This becomes so prevalent, his journey seems seems at times more like a trip to the graveyard than down memory lane.
That apart, King is a wonderful restauranteur who clearly loves what he does. The 'lessons I've learned' general business wisdom was for me the best part of the book. Interestingly, he glosses over the way he lost his empire (maybe there's an NDA in place?) which is a pity, because it must have been devastating.
Quick read, and a bit of a curate's egg with a side of Marmite. Three stars is a bit mean - it's a solid 7/10 and worth a look.
Passages about good hospitality I found a bit moving. King, however, wasn't one to dwell on his faults. The emotional toll of losing his Empire in 2022 must have been particularly galling; it would be nice to read a genuine account of why that happened (other than "Covid!") as well stories from his marriages etc, which fed into his view of Hospiality!
Character portraits were interesting (particularly, Harold Pinter Lucian Freud etc) and I was moved by perfect tale of French hospitality at end of the book.
In all - not a very deep affair, but a decent enough Xmas read.
Such great anecdotes. Just 1 star less bcos there was so much British context that I just couldn’t relate to!
Otherwise some snips I loved form the book - his 3 rules (never accept to do something you wouldn’t in the future, when declining give a quick no, never give an excuse or explanation) - dinner party test (are you proud of what you do for a living) - never delegate unless you have full confidence in their ability
A deeply informative, reflective and didactic memoir, filled with stories of the glitterati on the restaurant stage, and the mechanisms of a successful business from behind the scenes. A true masterclass in leadership from a figure who transformed the London restaurant scene, written with elegance, sharp wit, and humility.
Reading this book feels like sharing a bottle of wine with Jeremy King and just soaking up his endless restaurant and non-restaurant stories. I love this kind of books. Restaurants are not just places to eat or the solution for not wanting to cook. Restaurants are places of conviviality, friendship, warmth and art really.
Jeremy King has had a remarkable career as a restauranteur, mastering the alchemy of creating restaurants where people feel welcomed and at home. In this book he shares his stories, some gossip, and deep insights into how to deal with all kinds of people in all variety of moods with kindness, honesty, and integrity.
I liked this book and the author way more than I ever expected to, and find myself looking forward to revisiting all of his restaurants in the near term. These are phenomenal lessons that can be applied across the human experience and I will be revisiting this book time and again.
Highlight of the book: the author once worked at a Holimarine holiday camp in Somerset that I went to as a child! (Before my time. Otherwise I'm sure I would have been named. Like every other of the 50 thousand people the author has seen in his life).
Great life and career lessons in general. Exquisite narration. I have a lot of respect for those who work in hospitality upon finishing this. Best nonfiction book I've read in years.
A great, witty and entertaining read. A look into the world of being restaurateur and lessons of life from Jeremy King. As some one who has enjoyed some of the restaurants mentioned it was wonderful to hear how they came about. Nothing is too in depth on the restaurants but stories of the world within them is fun to read.
A definite 3.8. Something I picked up and thought I would skim but was quickly hooked. An old school insight into dining in London with bits of gossip and how to manage rich drunk people. A surprisingly interesting read with a sort of manual of how to be in life. Worth a read.