Michael Wood's A South Indian Journey is a brilliantly written travel narrative of personal and geographical exploration.
Inspired by a temple astrologer (who had accurately predicted his marriage and the birth of his two daughters), the writer and broadcaster Michael Wood travelled on a magical journey through south-east India. A South Indian Journey is a magical mixture of history and travelogue, and an unforgettable portrait of India - past, present and future.
'A wonderful introduction to the history and culture of the south, and a work of love' William Dalrymple
'A supremely well-informed and affectionate portrait of Tamil Nadu and its people...One of the most enlightening books on South India ever written' Rough Guide to India
Michael Wood was born and educated in Manchester. He was an open scholar in Modern History at Oriel College, Oxford, where he held a Bishop Fraser scholarship in Medieval History as a postgraduate. He has made a number of internationally successful tv series, including In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great, and four of his books have been UK non-
Michael David Wood is an English historian & broadcaster. He's presented numerous tv documentary series. Library of Congress lists him as Michael Wood.
Wood was born in Moston, Manchester, & educated at Manchester Grammar School & Oriel College, Oxford. His special interest was Anglo-Saxon history. In the 70s Wood worked for the BBC in Manchester. He was 1st a reporter, then an assistant producer on current affairs programmes, before returning to his love of history with his 1981 series In Search of the Dark Ages for BBC2. This explored the lives of leaders of the period, including Boadicea, King Arthur, Offa, Alfred the Great, Athelstan, Eric Bloodaxe & William the Conquerer (& gave rise to his 1st book, based upon the series).
It is always reassuring to see positive reviews (overwhelmingly positive, actually) from the people that and author is writing about - in this case the people of Tamil Nadu, in southern India.
It is obvious from the outset that the author has genuine affection for his lose friends, and in general the people and the culture of Tamil Nadu. The book draws on the positive, and is written from the perspective of a non-Hindu. Michael Wood is a historian and has written many books, but this one seems to come from a more personal level.
While in Tamil Nadu, with his girlfriend of the time, Wood meets Mala and her family. This begins a long friendship. At the same time he visits a Hindu astrologer, who tells him he will have two daughters, and that he will complete a pilgrimage. He is then given an extensive list of pilgrimage sites he will visit, all around Souther India.
The bulk of this book covers that journey, undertaken with (or under the guidance of) Mala. Loosely it is taken on a bus, in an organised fashion (the Video Bus, so named for the Tamil movies on continuous play). At some point some 30 or so locations into the pilgrimage I zoned out a little. They inevitably became a bit repetitive, and while they were all described in detail in order to demonstrate that they differed, it wasn't by enough. More interesting were the minor interactions with various people during his travels.
A noted above, Wood isn't Hindu, and was exposed in depth to the lifestyle and process of a genuine pilgrimage, so writes from a position of experience, as describes in great detail. If this level of detail about this topic is interesting to you as a reader, no doubt it is an excellent book. For me, it was good, and it was interesting, but I needed less repetition and more side-stories to keep me enthralled.
Published in 1995, it would be interesting to understand the difference now, twenty years later.
A beautiful, heartfelt travelogue of the Tamil south that I'm very glad I read. Found it (as usual) in the ground floor travel section of Blossom's in Bangalore, and bought it immediately, even if only to figure out how an outsider would look at my culture. Enjoyed it so very much that I'm sure to read it again, and might even follow his trajectory around my homeland.
Very many books have been described as labours of love, but seldom is that phrase actually deserved. This book, though, is exactly that. Wood is in love with Tamil culture and everything that accompanies it, and he unlocks a treasure-chest of legends and myths, narrating them in a voice that's empathetic, scholarly, and yet accessible. He calls Tamil Nadu 'the last classical civilisation', and though the book was published 20 years ago and a lot has changed since, a lot remains the same. It is this sameness that is the central subject of Wood's book - continuity, antiquity, and a culture's celebration of itself.
This book deserves to be read more, and can even act as an introduction to modern, cut-off-from-their-roots Tamils to their own culture. I'll certainly do my share of evangelising it.
"Madurai reminds you that very simple rituals, by their beauty & antiquity, have the power to satisfy everyone, not merely the gullible & the illiterate. It's a mnemonic of a culture, a focal point, a crossing place. Behind the so-called idol lies the mental image: an imaginal world & a whole culture. At Madurai I felt myself in the presence of things which never were but are always".
- Michael Wood, A South Indian Journey.
Read this one for you Baba. Amongst all the things you introduced me to, it's the works of Mr. Wood which have had the greatest impact on me as a person & as an aficionado of History & Culture.
I got a copy of this book from Mr. Wood last year but it sort of skipped my attention a lay huddled on one of the shelves. However, that would change after my first ever visit to Tamil Nadu in February. Never had I been in awe of a culture & of our ancient Hindu roots from a mere sneak peek than when I returned home from Chennai. Ever since returning, it has been an active effort on my part to understand the Tamil Society, our religious customs in South. It was while striving to do so that I glanced upon this beauty, gathering dust on my bookshelf.
This book's beauty is not merely confined to the depiction of the Tamil Society & it's inseparable bonds with its temples but more so in the beauty of the travel to each of these great temples thereby into the heart & soul of Tamil Culture. Michael Wood's simple yet carefully prised words take you on a journey which not only brings Tamil Culture to the forefront but miraculously at times makes you challenge what you know while also making you want to believe in a lot of things we might have dismissed off as archaic elements of a non- existent world, in the past. I was travelling to some of the temples mentioned in here while reading this one and the effect was nothing but surreal.
For anyone genuinely interested in understanding Tamil Nadu and its people, this is a must read. Mr. Wood once told me that he was personally invested in writting this one and every page of this book bears that personal touch.
P.S. - Do try and visit the places mentioned here.
Loved this travelogue focused entirely on Tamil Nadu in 1992! Was transported to another world, supposedly my world. I felt like the author zoomed in and out appropriately. Details like jokes being spoken, meals available on the Vaigai express, verbatim interactions with the local people added so much colour to the picture. While broader brushes on past politics, geographic conditions and religious ideologies were used to give context into 1992 TN. I especially loved his sprinkling of etymology, for eg - the two possible etymologies for Meenakshi - Apparently *min* is the root word for star and fish, probably because it means shine/glitter and a fish's eyes glitter and so does Meenakshis. Could also be that Meenakshis eyes are in the shape of a fish. He goes on to say how Kan-avar means 'the one your eyes go to' and that's how you pick a Kanavar (husband) too ❤️
I am an Indian. And an Indian from Tamil Nadu. Irony of Ironies that I should come to learn about and to love my heritage from a foreigner. It is one of the most brilliant books in the world. The story of Micheal's Journey through the southern heartland combined with his masterful writing, transported me into a magical world; a fantasy world. That the world was real and was a part of me, gave the book an epiphanic tone. A must read for all Indians, not to mention Tamils. I had no idea that there were more than 250 temples just in Tamil Nadu, nor did I know that they were all on the path of an ancient magical pilgrim route. I have never seen even half of all the temples that Micheal has visited. Reading the book made me resolve to visit all the temples of South India, once I finish with my studies in Singapore, not just for interest and curiosity but to fulfill that ancient custom of duty and devotion in which we Hindus invest so much. The Final pages of the book brought me to my knees in tears. That the current generation of the tamils don't realize the wealth of their culture and have discarded the old ways for a consumeristic new one. That the Last Classical Civilization is coming to an end.
This book has a lovely story line with lots of interaction between Michael Wood and the family he stays in contact with in Tamil Nadu which I loved. I read this whilst on holiday in neighbouring Kerala so I could easily picture the landscape and lifestyle. Some of the book was very involved in the religious pilgrimage the author undertakes, and whilst you’re aware as a reader that he’s doing it out of interest rather than in the name of Hinduism, I still found some sections that I skimmed over when it came to detailed religion or about the gods. Altogether I enjoyed the lighter moments and I love reading books set in India.
This is my second travelogue, and this time with a new author, Michael Wood.
Michael Wood is a prominent British historian, broadcaster, and author, widely recognized for his engaging presentations on history and his ability to bring the past to life through storytelling. Born on July 23, 1948, in Manchester, England, Wood has built an illustrious career in both academia and media. He studied at Oriel College, Oxford, where he specialized in history, and later earned an MA in Modern History.
Wood's approach to history is noted for its accessibility and vivid narrative style, making complex historical events and periods understandable and intriguing to a broad audience. He has written numerous books and produced several acclaimed television series that explore a wide range of historical topics. Some of his most well-known works include "In Search of the Trojan War," "In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great," and "The Story of England."
In addition to his television and literary contributions, Michael Wood has also been a regular contributor to historical and cultural publications and has served as a lecturer at various academic institutions. His passion for uncovering and sharing the stories of the past has earned him a reputation as one of the most respected and beloved historians in the UK and beyond.
The Smile of Murugan is a captivating account of a journey foretold by an astrologer. In a small, airless house in Tamil Nadu, the astrologer predicted that Michael Wood would return to Chidambaram and undertake a pilgrimage. Four years later, this prophecy came true as Wood found himself on a pilgrimage through South India, covering more than a thousand miles and visiting numerous temples. This book details his pilgrimage, delving into the rich history and culture of each temple he visited.
The temples Wood explores include:
Chidambaram Temple: Known for its connection to the cosmic dance of Lord Shiva, this temple left a profound impression on Wood. The temple's intricate architecture and the spiritual significance of its rituals are beautifully depicted.
Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur: This UNESCO World Heritage site is renowned for its grand architecture and is one of the largest temples in India. Wood’s description brings to life the temple's majestic presence and historical importance.
Meenakshi Temple in Madurai: Famous for its stunning gopurams (gateway towers) and vibrant festivities, Wood explores the temple’s mythological and cultural depth.
Ramanathaswamy Temple in Rameswaram: This temple is a significant pilgrimage site, and Wood details its association with the epic Ramayana, enhancing our understanding of its sacredness.
Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam: As one of the largest functioning Hindu temples in the world, Wood’s narrative captures the essence of its spiritual and cultural importance.
Living in the south, I had not visited many of these temples. However, after reading Wood’s detailed accounts and rich historical insights, I felt as if I had traveled alongside him. His love for Tamil culture and tradition is beautifully articulated throughout the book.
This book deserves all the stars and should be read by many. It serves as an excellent introduction for the modern generation, who may feel disconnected from their roots for various reasons. Wood’s love for Tamil culture and tradition is eloquently written, making this a must-read for spiritual individuals or those who believe in spirituality and love visiting temples. It is especially recommended for those who plan to explore the temples of South India.
The Smile of Murugan is a delightful and insightful read that not only chronicles a physical journey but also a spiritual and cultural exploration.
It’s a reread that I thoroughly enjoyed as much as the first time. The book merits a detailed reflection, for now I’d say this is Michael Wood’s open love letter to the Tamil Civilisation. It’s written as a travelogue but essentially is a wonderful snapshot of post liberal Tamil Nadu in the 90s. Wood covers a lot of socio-cultural Tamil ground with religion and temples as its planks.
Recommended for : Indophiles ( can also supplement with Woods Story of India and BBC series), readers interested in Tamil history and culture.
Potential Negative: Risk of getting Templed out. Detailed description of Tamil temples can get repetitive and monotonous for an average reader.
This is the first of Mr Wood's books I have read and am looking forward to exploring his catalogue more, without doubt this is the finest travel book on my favourite subject, India, that I have read in some time. Highly evocative of the temple strewn state of Tamil Nadu, this richly researched book goes deeply into the folk lore and religion. I did think it lost its way briefly about two thirds of the way through but this is a minor grumble in an all round excellent work.
The friendship aspect comes across sweetly in the book but there are number of factual errors in the book. And everywhere there is a quote or a reference to a place or person, it's always a negative quote reinforcing stereotypes about India. It shows lot of negativity about the native culture and belief systems.
This book is a lost treasure. It's not detailed but the content is genuine and a rare insight by an outsider into precious Tamil culture which is one of the oldest indigenous civilization of modern times. A true must read for anyone interested in anthropology culture mythology and spirituality
An absorbing travelogue/pilgrimage of south india . A must read for not just foreigners but all South Indians to know about the history of the ancient temples of the South and the religious customs associated with each one of them . A fine read !
It's a nice and honest description of a journey that the author took, specially him being more of an atheist at that time makes his commentary on Tamil architecture more interesting for a neutral reader. However, the book does tend to get repetitive and you just stop paying attention to how one temple is different from the other one. I actually gave up when I was about 80% done.
Interesting travelogue from a westerner to land of Tamil culture. Liked his narration .. and those who lived in 1990s and travelled to these places will have a hearty laugh. I liked the book.. casual read.
This book is probably the most comprehensive guide to present-day Tamil Nadu written by an outsider and one of the best by anyone. Michael Wood touches on nearly every aspect of Tamil civilization be it religion, spirituality, history, day-to-day life or politics. From the frank and heartfelt narrative, it is evident how deeply he is attached to the Tamil country and its people. Wood has an eye for detail - he does not miss out on even the minutest details such as the weighing machine that used to be commonplace in our railway stations. He also understands the Indian mentality pretty well and does not complain when people ask personal questions about his religious beliefs nor does he ever rave and rant about the long queues or political corruption. On the whole it is an extremely optimistic book written by an understanding mind. This book is by no means the best that I've read but certainly among the better ones.
I picked up this book without remembering who Michael Wood is, but as soon as I did his voice came through loud and clear.
This is a very detailed and authentic trip around holy sites in South India taken by Michael Wood and an Indian woman who has become a friend over the years. A holy man tells him to make a pilgrimage to certain sites and eventually he does. The virtue of this travel book is that Wood takes you on a journey that Indians take often, sometimes annually, and gives you the experience of traveling on India's terms.
I've been to several of these temples, taken the local buses, eaten at small restaurants that most tourists would avoid, and experienced the feeling of being swept up in the local culture. I was in South India when I read it so it was doubly vivid, but anyone who wants to know what Indian life is like on the poorer end will certainly find out here.
Yet another Michael Wood this year and once again I can't help but feel that he had more fun writing it than I had reading it. Picked this up in Southwark a few weeks ago while on a work trip. It made splendid reading on the plane, but once I got home a slight disappointment set in. I'm sure the temples were lovely and I really can't fault Wood's description, but still it was all a bit "wish you were here.
All that aside, you can't fault his enthusiasm and passion. It's infectious. Not sure when it will happen, but I can't wait to get to India. Not many books make me want to praise God, but this comes close. And who can fault anything with the line, "an equation has no meaning unless it expresses a thought of God".
Simple travelogue on Michael's pilgrimage through some of the best temples in Tamil Nadu. His eye for details is amazing as he captures the rituals, the culture and traditions of South India in a lucid style.