About the Book COMBINING LABORATORY SCIENCE WITH HISTORY AND STORYTELLING, AND TRAVEL WITH INSIGHTS INTO THE PERFUME INDUSTRY, THIS IS A COMPELLING, UNUSUAL BOOK ABOUT THAT MOST ENTRANCING OF THINGS—PERFUME. 'They are very particular in their personal cleanliness and allow no remissions in this matter. Every time they perform the functions of nature, they wash their bodies and use perfumes of sandalwood or turmeric …’ For as far back as it is possible to investigate such a thing, it appears that Indians have concerned themselves with making their environs, and themselves, smell good. The sensualist dandies and master perfumers of yesteryear have led to a sophisticated culture of fragrance aesthetics—not entirely surprising in a land that’s home to 18,500 varieties of aromatic plants. From the voluptuous allure of the rose to the musky tang of oud, the woody notes of sandalwood to the heady smell of jasmine and the lingering aroma of vetiver, fragrances unlock something at the very heart of India. In this vivid narrative that blends the science of aromatics with travel writing, history and insights into India’s contemporary perfume trade, Divrina Dhingra investigates the idea of scent as a powerful trigger for memories and emotions, as well as a mode of self-expression and identity. In her telling, aromatic ingredients are not a mere indulgence, but instead, the backbone of the country’s struggling perfume industry and as a source of livelihood for many. A compelling, unusual narrative by a writer schooled in the art of perfumery.
About the Author Divrina is a journalist and has previously worked at Elle, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines. She lives in New Delhi.
Lovely Read ! It was fascinating to learn about Itr and perfume making in India. The book is well structured - It has a chapter for each scent, so one for Roses, one for Sandalwood, one for Jasmine,Sandalwood etc...Each chapter has a personal anecdote, the physical journey of Divrina in the geography of origin, horticultural fields, distillery and the sale of it, and then covers the challenges facing the particular scent.
I learnt a lot which I never knew. For example, my favourite scent of Petrichor.. I learnt it actually comes from the release of a chemical called geosmin from bacterial interaction with mitti. I also learnt that lovely smell from the air cooler from my childhood summer holidays, came from the natural roots of Vetiver which was soo comforting.
It was heartbreaking to read about Sandalwood - as to how the indiscriminate terrorism of Veerapan and the delayed action of the government to get rid of him meant the almost total destruction of indigenous Sandalwood trees. How even today, in the Forest Research Institute of Bangalore, poaching continues.
Reading of how Climate Change in Kashmir was causing a 70 percent reduction of Saffron Cultivation was also appalling.
Westland Books has also done a gorgeous job in the illustrations for the book cover and of the flower / source of scent across the pages of the book - stunning!
The only thing the book could have improved on is the consistency in style - While the initial chapters have a lot of warmth, depth and intimacy in the coverage of the scent, the latter ones become a little more clinical with the eccentricities which you get absorbed by in the inital chapters, missing.
Picked this book up after hearing Divrina Dhingra in JLF 2024 and being fascinated by the conversation she had with John Zubrzycki
A sensory journey into the rich tradition of Indian perfumes, The Perfume Project captures the beauty of itr-making with evocative descriptions and stunning illustrations. From the delicate art of extracting scents to the timeless fragrances of sandalwood, rose, and bela, this book is a love letter to India’s heritage of perfumery.
While it beautifully celebrates the craft, it also leaves you pondering the challenges of keeping this ancient art relevant in a modern world dominated by mass-produced fragrances.
For anyone passionate about Indian traditions, craftsmanship, or simply the power of scent, this book is a delightful read.
Much like the fragrances it talks about, this book had me spellbound. Like a perfume, it has three notes.
A top note that takes you on scented trails to different parts of India in search of Rose, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Saffron, Oud and Vetiver. An almost poetic description of their history, cultivation and significance in perfumery forms the middle or heart note. And for the long lasting base note, it is an ode to olfactory memories that we form subconsciously and are unique to our life experiences.
Thoroughly enjoyable, colourful description of the traditional perfume/attar industry in India. I really like how the author covers the history, artistic background, cultural significance, and science of each of the core perfume ingredients she mentions. It truly feels like an educational experience whilst also reading as fluidly as a diary.
My only criticism would be that I imagine it would be a less fluent read for someone without Indian heritage, considering there is a lot of culturally specific terminology used without explanation.