In this authoritative and immensely readable insider’s account, celebrated cookbook author and former chef Joyce Goldstein traces the development of California cuisine from its formative years in the 1970s to 2000, when farm-to-table, foraging, and fusion cooking had become part of the national vocabulary. Interviews with almost two hundred chefs, purveyors, artisans, winemakers, and food writers bring to life an approach to cooking grounded in passion, bold innovation, and a dedication to "flavor first." Goldstein explains how the counterculture movement in the West gave rise to a restaurant culture characterized by open kitchens, women in leadership positions, and a surprising number of chefs and artisanal food producers who lacked formal training. The new cuisine challenged the conventional kitchen hierarchy and French dominance in fine dining, leading to a more egalitarian and informal food scene. In weaving Goldstein’s views on California food culture with profiles of those who played a part in its development—from Alice Waters to Bill Niman to Wolfgang Puck—Inside the California Food Revolution demonstrates that, while fresh produce and locally sourced ingredients are iconic in California, what transforms these elements into a unique cuisine is a distinctly Western culture of openness, creativity, and collaboration. Engagingly written and full of captivating anecdotes, this book shows how the inspirations that emerged in California went on to transform the experience of eating throughout the United States and the world.
While initially daunted by the small and dense-looking text, I fortunately started reading and was quickly drawn into the enthrallingly detailed story of the key decades of California food culture (1970-2000.) Goldstein provides wonderful interviews and reflections from a variety of pioneer cooks, restauranteurs, farmers and food producers who transformed how we eat in America. It is also refreshing to have this important story told from the the perspective of Californians, rather than the rather snarky tone that eastcoasters seem to use when discussing Californian food.
Joyce Goldstein is one of my favorite food people but that doesn't mean I'm biased. This was very illuminati8ng book on how California changed the food culture in The States and helped define what American cuisine is. From restaurant design to buying local CA started it all even if New York adopted out ideas after and tries to claim they did it first. Much less of a gossip column tell all than "The United States of Arugula", which really didn't explore the how's and why's of American food culture. A great book for any foodie interested in how we got to the state of restaurants, wineries, and artisan farmers we have today.
Know your (recent) food history! As a native Californian and someone who likes to eat and cook seasonally, I found this book very interesting and inspiring. Should I quit my job and start my small-batch artisanal ice cream hustle? (JK)
Good but definitely out of my element because although I’m a native Californian, and consider myself a foodie, the food that the author talks about is was out of my price bracket.
This is a fascinating topic, and if you live in CA or like food, you might enjoy it okay. But the writhing is plodding and uninspired, to say the least. Skip it.