Jump to ratings and reviews
Rate this book

Bitter: A Taste of the World's Most Dangerous Flavor, with Recipes [A Cookbook]

Rate this book
The champion of uncelebrated foods including fat, offal, and bones, Jennifer McLagan turns her attention to a fascinating, underappreciated, and trending topic: bitterness.
 
What do coffee, IPA beer, dark chocolate, and radicchio all have in common? They’re bitter. While some culinary cultures, such as in Italy and parts of Asia, have an inherent appreciation for bitter flavors (think Campari and Chinese bitter melon), little attention has been given to bitterness in North America: we’re much more likely to reach for salty or sweet. However, with a surge in the popularity of craft beers; dark chocolate; coffee; greens like arugula, dandelion, radicchio, and frisée; high-quality olive oil; and cocktails made with Campari and absinthe—all foods and drinks with elements of bitterness—bitter is finally getting its due. 

In this deep and fascinating exploration of bitter through science, culture, history, and 100 deliciously idiosyncratic recipes—like Cardoon Beef Tagine, White Asparagus with Blood Orange Sauce, and Campari Granita—award-winning author Jennifer McLagan makes a case for this misunderstood flavor and explains how adding a touch of bitter to a dish creates an exciting taste dimension that will bring your cooking to life.

272 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2014

42 people are currently reading
638 people want to read

About the author

Jennifer McLagan

12 books30 followers

Ratings & Reviews

What do you think?
Rate this book

Friends & Following

Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!

Community Reviews

5 stars
87 (34%)
4 stars
94 (36%)
3 stars
63 (24%)
2 stars
10 (3%)
1 star
1 (<1%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews
Profile Image for Lili.
333 reviews15 followers
September 21, 2014
I received this book from Netgalley in exchange for a review

Bitter, the forbidden taste that as a species we are hardwired to avoid, bitter usually means bad, but as we have evolved we have developed a love for bitter things. Well, some more than others, as a tea taster I run into different levels of bitter a lot, there are the teas that are bitter green like kale, and there are teas that are briskly bitter like oak wood. Some teas are bitter because someone screwed up when making it and it is actually full of too many tannins, those fall into the not so good bitter category. The previous ones are delicious and desired tastes in many teas. The first recipe collection ‘Born to Be Bitter’ focuses on those tasty leafy greens in the Chicory family. I can safely say that these are some of my favorite leafy greens, I find myself happily munching on them whenever I get the chance. These recipes look fantastic! I do wish there were more photos of the finished dishes, but even without them the recipes are clear and I can easily envision how they will turn out. Dispersed between recipes there are one to two page spreads explaining interesting snippets, like the history of chicory coffee, how taste buds work, and things of that nature. The second section ‘Liquid Bitter’ is a chapter after my own heart! Lots of tea recipes, also beer (not a beer drinker, but cooking with beer is delicious) and some tonic recipes. I especially love the intro to this section ‘For most of us, our first encounter with bitter was as a liquid, stealing a sip of beer or a taste of coffee as children. The experience was usually negative.” Ha, so true, I remember getting a taste of my grandfather’s black, strong coffee as a kid and spitting it out immediately, it was awful! I did however love tea, I am pretty sure there are baby pictures of me popping out my mother’s womb with a teacup in hand. Section three takes on ‘Pungently Bitter’ things like horseradish and Arugala. Oh no, those also might be some of my favorites! I am beginning to notice that my assumption that ‘salty’ was my favorite taste might be incorrect. I think I am all about the bitter foods. Section four ‘Subtly Bitter’ did not have some of my favorite food, dealing primarily with citrus fruits and walnuts. The recipes are amazing though, so even though I do not go out of my way to eat a grapefruit, using them in cooking is a must. Section Five, ‘Surprisingly Bitter’ well, it was a surprise because it had a vegetable I have never heard of as its spotlight, good old Cardoon. Apparently it is a kind of thistle, awesome, not only has this book introduced me to some fantastic recipes, I have learned of a new kind of tasty thing to eat. The final section “Dark, Forbidden, and Very Bitter” had my attention for sure, hello Chocolate and Methi (fenugreek) two of my all time favorite things to eat. No thank you to milk chocolate, I want mine 70% or more dark and bitter.

If you are like me and tantalized by the forbidden, or just eat more Kale than anyone else because you love the taste and could care less about how healthy it is, then I cannot recommend this book enough. Seriously, go buy it now!
Profile Image for Sarah-Hope.
1,472 reviews211 followers
May 24, 2023
I’m not sure that bitter is an acquired taste. Yes, as author Jennifer McLagan points out, the number of our tastebuds decreases as we age, turning flavors we hated in childhood into favorites. Some people come to bitter gradually, others like it from the start, and there are those who never learn to like it. Jennifer McLagan likes bitter—really likes it—and has the culinary, historical and scientific chops to offer us remarkably thorough treatise on this loved/hated flavor.

I’ve liked bitter since I was a kid: mustard, not ketchup, better yet, horse radish; Sen-sen, horehound, or salted licorice, not fruit pie. (OK, that’s an exaggeration. I did like pie. But I did also love those bitter candies.) As a result, as soon as I saw the cover of McLagan’s Bitter, I knew this was a book I’d want to spend time with.

McLagan breaks bitter tastes into six groups, each with its own chapter, everything from “Liquid Bitter” (beer jelly, tea poached pears, even homemade tonic water) to “Dark, Forbidden, and Very Bitter” (lamb with dark chocolate pepper sauce, tobacco chocolate truffles, roasted squab with ganache).

While there are a few “standard” offerings here (Belgian endive bathed in butter, bratwurst in beer, Brussels sprouts, bacon, and chestnuts), things you might find in an issue of Eating Well or Fine Cooking, most of her recipes fall into the I-would-never-have-come-up-with-that-on-my-own category (see the previous paragraph).

Her book gives us the histories of these foods and explains their taste chemistry. There are lots of recipes, but having this additional information makes for interesting reading—and might well convince you to taste something you thought you’d never try.

I acknowledge that I’ll never cook with marrow (yes, there’s a recipe using it) nor with cow bile (only mentioned, no recipe offered), but I’ll be making active use of this book for a good time to come.
Profile Image for Amy Bradley.
630 reviews8 followers
December 1, 2017
I wasn't sure what to expect with this book on cooking, flavour, and taste in ode of bitter. The photograph of wormwood on the cover is what drew me to it, absinthe having long been a pleasure of mine. Alas, no recipes for absinthe or other aperitif bitter liqueurs (although there is discussion of them, including Riga Black Balsam, which I’ve rarely encountered anyone other than Latvians having sampled). However, for a tremendous variety of ways to include vegetables and fruits with bitter characteristics into your meals, this book is pretty amazing.

Cooking styles are more sophisticated and time consuming than what I am accustomed to, but sound utterly delicious and decadent.

The food styling and photography is lush and makes me hungry to try the recipes.

Have made and very much enjoyed the Sweet Butter Pastry, Grapefruit Tart, Chocolate Tart, and Walnut Cake!
Profile Image for Stephen.
Author 4 books20 followers
October 31, 2024
In around 350 BC, Aristotle authoritatively opined that there are only two basic tastes: sweet and bitter. In the 20th century, based on study of the receptors on the tongue, the definitive list of four basic tastes was proclaimed: sweet, salty, sour and bitter. This list was only gradually prised open to include a fifth: umami or savoury. It is not unusual for a book to be devoted to just one of these basic tastes: Joanne Chen, "The Taste of Sweet: Our Complicated Love Affair with Our Favorite Treats" (2009); Mark Kurlansky, "Salt: A World History" (2002); Mark Diacono, "Sour: The Magical Element that Will Transform Your Cooking" (2019); and Ole Mouritsen & Klavs Styrbæk, "Umami: Unlocking the Secrets of the Fifth Taste" (2015). Bitter is the exception; McLagan's book fills the lacuna. Without bitterness, she writes (sometimes rhapsodically) about foods which are bitter. She discusses culinary history, food science, flavour matching, and provides recipes of her own creation. Many of them are exciting (in the sense of "I never thought to do that!"); a few are not. I am unlikely to try her recipe for "tobacco panna cotta." Modernists and psychoneurologists continue to press for the expansion of the list of basic texts beyond sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami. Suggestions include piquant/hot spicy, oleogustus/fatty taste, cold/minty, numbness (Sichuan peppercorns), astringent, and metallic.
Profile Image for Maryalene.
446 reviews4 followers
November 22, 2024
Cooking -- and eating -- bitter foods isn't particularly appealing, and yet, Jennifer McLagan makes it seem like the most appetizing thing ever.

This is a fantastic cookbook that is more than recipes. There are long introductions to various ingredients and articles interspersed that talk about the history and science of bitter foods.

I made the Belgian Endive Flemish Style which gave me flashbacks to trying olives as a child, desperately wanting to like them because they felt grown-up and sophisticated. I can't say I loved the endives, but I feel like if I start incorporating more bitter elements into my menus then maybe someday I will like these foods as much as I now like olives.

Also notable: the hardcover of this book is a perfect size. The pages lie flat, and it is big enough to be easily read but not so large that it's unwieldy on a cookbook stand.

I borrowed this from the library, but it may be one to buy.
Profile Image for Natalia Gladysheva.
157 reviews9 followers
August 28, 2017
Идеальная книга про еду, построенная вокруг горького вкуса.
Что хорошо, нигде не торчит фуражка капитана Очевидность, наоборот, куча информации про горькие продукты, горькие вкусы и восприятие еды, которой я не знала.
Итальянцы и испанцы ферментируют сыр с помощью местного репейника, который называют испанским артишоком. А еще этот репейник едят с оливковым маслом.
Белая спаржа такая дорогая, потому что растет под землей и собрать ее нужно, пока не высунулась. причем исключительно вручную. Уже придумали машину для сбора белой спаржи, но она стоит как самолет и нехило проигрывает человеку в производительности.
Хестон Блюменталь подавал посетителям своего ресторана желе из апельсина и свеклы: один слой оранжевый, второй красный. Потом оказывалось, что оранжевый сделан из желтой свеклы, а красный из красных апельсинов. Мозг, который уже представил вкус по цвету впадал в ступор. В итоге, не просто вкусная еда, а аттракцион и неожиданные ощущения.
И такого на 100 страниц.
Хочу еще таких книжек.
Profile Image for Nancy.
1,088 reviews32 followers
December 1, 2016
I really liked that this book has some less-than-popular recipes in it, stuff you won't necessarily find on Pinterest. But a lot of it still looks good. There's a few too many recipes for me to photocopy, not quite enough for me to definitely buy the book. I'll probably just keep checking it out from time to time and try one or two recipes until I can make up my mind.

But common, Radicchio and pumpkin risotto? Who wouldn't want that? Rutabaga and apple soup? Turnip and fava bean stew? Brussels sprouts, bacon, and chestnuts? Tea-poached peaches? You're killin' me Smalls! I wanna try it all! And who wouldn't wanna try a small batch of beer jelly? Serve it with fatty smoked fish, ham, or on a platter with cheddar cheese, smoked sausage, and pickles. Yumm!
Profile Image for Steve Rauscher.
46 reviews
March 28, 2020
I nabbed this book from a friend as he was packing up for a big move, and it's been sitting with the rest of my cookbooks for a few years since, untouched save for the random recipe reference.

It is what lies between the recipes, however, that makes this one of the best cookbooks I've read in recent memory. Marrying culinary history to the biological and psychological sciences of taste and smell, McLagan not only justifies her own recipes, but also legitimately teaches her readers about the value of bitterness within the human experience. I mean, she includes a three-page section on toast. Toast!

This is an instant favorite for me, and likely will be for you, too.
Profile Image for Jakobi.
47 reviews14 followers
August 16, 2020
A very good book, but not for everyone. When you hear “bitter”, you rarely think “tasty”. Bitter is in fact an acquired taste, contrary to salty and sweet which are very popular in the Western culture.
The book beautifully describes various groups of food, their origins and shares some out of the box combinations, inspiring recipes. I am givingit 4 stars rather than 5 as it disappointed me on the lack of research into Central and Eastern European herbs, alcohols and foods, where this flavour is appreciated.
Profile Image for Anthony.
Author 3 books8 followers
September 27, 2025
This cookbook has been on my list for a long time. I have been waiting for my library to pick it up. My wife says the we own too many cookbooks, as if there is such a thing.

Finally, my library had this book in circulation. McLagan is a chef and food writer with a penchant for history, storytelling and brevity. She knows that most readers are here for the recipes, which are all excellent. But I appreciate the stories and history behind each of the bitter vegetables, fruits and herbs that she shares.
Profile Image for Book Grocer.
1,181 reviews39 followers
October 1, 2020
Purchase Bitter here for just $12!

This is a fascinating book about the taste of bitter. The information in the book about the ingredients is entertaining reading and very useful. Highly recommend to cooks who like some contrast in their meals.

Alicia, The Book Grocer
Profile Image for Carman Chew.
157 reviews11 followers
November 11, 2022
Intriguing concept. I personally don't cook but was quite drawn by the intro. Was hoping to have more historical background to these bitter foods as was offered in the intro and so was quite disappointed to find that there were only recipes in the remaining sections. Personally would rate it a 2 for these reasons, but bumping up another star for peeps who cook and the beautiful pictures.
Profile Image for Niccolai.
56 reviews5 followers
June 21, 2017
Not enough pictures of the dishes. I eat with my eyes so it's not easy to be inspired by the recipes. A really interesting chapter on how to put flavors of tobacco and tea into your food though and I might want to try that.
1,918 reviews
October 24, 2020
I almost never rate a book a 5 but this one deserves it. The premise of selecting an often ignored taste is brilliant. I fell in love with the notes and short essays. And the food was unique and left out of most other cookbooks. Course you got to love bitter, but I do.
Profile Image for Rogue Reader.
2,331 reviews7 followers
January 27, 2019
I don't like the flavor but I love the idea -- science surrounds bitter and there are so many ways to think about bitter. Lots of textual material, intriguing recipes and beautiful food porn photos.
Profile Image for Kara.
564 reviews10 followers
February 16, 2017
Enjoyed reading this book, and have bookmarked 4-5 recipes I would like to try. I just wish there was more! A second volume maybe?
913 reviews5 followers
April 22, 2015
I've been on a cookbook kick all year, and this was an interesting variation on the theme. Rather than sort by a region of food (say, Southern cuisine) or a restaurant (Prune), this book unites all recipes by one flavor profile: bitter.

Scattered in between each recipe is a thorough investigation into a subject related to bitter: how we taste, what plants count, how they were historically used, what makes bitter "bitter," etc. There is a lot of information packed into this book, and I can easily see this taking someone a while to really peruse.

The recipes are also striking in their originality, at least for the United States. Americans love their sweets and fats, and I've seen plenty of variations on that theme, but when is the last time you saw a recipe for poaching something with tea, or creaming a desert with tobacco in it, or glazing your meat in coffee or chocolate? These ideas are great stimulation for the creative cook, and I hope I get the chance to try them out someday.

This is a great cookbook for people who are interested in single-focus subject books (think anything by Mark Kurlansky) or who want to shake up their cooking and eating routines. Bitter foods tend to be very healthy; it would serve us all better to cut out some of the sweets and add in some of the bitters. Check it out!
1,911 reviews5 followers
June 18, 2015
So, I am going to buy this book. I have taken it out of the library twice and the notes I have made are copious and I will put some of them here. I have always loved bitter and this book really does get a variety of bitter foods in a way that I haven't thought of them before. Maybe my notes will help you decide what you think...

There is a discussion about taste and flavour and later a discussion on the optimal temperature for bitter. No surprise that it becomes less pronounced in the cold. Think of a cold beer in summer.
There are other tastes that are being suggested such as metallic, calcium and soapy.
- cannabis and hops are related
- 'Of Human Bondage' (not sure about this reference but believe that it describes hop picking.
- Orwell wrote about hop picking in an essay and in 'A Clergyman's Daughter'
- Dorothy Hutty? Food in England writes about buttered hops
- tea infused prunes
- quince marmalade
- annato + bitter orange (beer flavour too?)
- [dried apricot tarte tatin]
- coffee and black currant (again)
- horseradish ale
[is music loud to distract us from the way the food tastes?]
- cocoa as a bittering agent for gravy
Profile Image for A..
Author 1 book11 followers
March 12, 2015
A lovely book--well put together with the information and the recipes well-presented. I enjoyed reading more about the science behind flavour and taste, and many of the recipes are tempting (just read the book today, haven't had a chance to cook from it yet). My toddler thinks the chocolate tart (based on the beautiful photo) should be on my to-bake list, and I'm intrigued by many of the chicory recipes, as well as the tea custard.

I've yet to run across cardoons, either at specialty stores or in the farmers' markets, so despite the author's obvious fondness for them, I'll be skipping those for now. I was a little weirded out by the recipes that included tobacco. I never knew that people actually cooked with the stuff. I realize that it may offer some interesting dimensions, but I'm definitely not going to be trying those recipes (though I will probably show them to a friend who enjoys an occasional cigar, since she might like them).
Profile Image for Redsteve.
1,371 reviews21 followers
May 28, 2016
By the author of Fat and Bones, this book focuses on foods that are bitter, pungent, astringent, or sour. Recipes range from the familiar (e.g. Bratwurst in Beer, Sautéed Brussels Sprouts, Seville Orange Whiskey Marmalade, Hot Chocolate) to the highly unusual (e.g. Radicchio Pie, Beer Jelly, Turnip Ice Cream, Tarragon Roasted Celery, Lamb with Dark Chocolate Pepper Sauce, Tobacco Chocolate Truffles). It also includes a lot of food history and sections on the science and psychology of flavor. One caveat is that, despite the intriguing recipes and fascinating information, I would categorize it as a “Semi-coffee table book” (i.e. lots of artistic photographs and empty space around the recipes); not intrinsically bad but not my personal favorite layout for a food book. Although many of the photographs are very pretty.
Profile Image for Patty.
2,691 reviews118 followers
February 1, 2016
“So bitter is a cultured , intriguing, and sophisticated taste, with a dangerous side. Who could be more fun to cook or to dine with?” p. 5

I don’t often include reviews of cookbooks. I used to read them more, but I find that the Internet supplies my need for recipes and cookbooks only make me hungry. The pictures are always so beautiful. I can read and follow recipes, but I don’t have a food photographer to make my dishes look so perfect.

However, I want to remember both this book and the author. McLagan writes well, her recipes are unusual, but they seem doable. She has three other cookbooks and I would like to look at them as well.

I am hoping this slight review will remind me to check out those other books. This is fascinating and I expect the other ones to be good also.
Profile Image for Ambur Taft.
448 reviews1 follower
September 29, 2016
Not only were the pictures and the recipes beautiful and interesting, the history lessons and studies in between all of that were fantastic. I especially enjoyed the pieces "Drinking Bitter", "The Drink That Built An Empire", "Wormwood", and "Gold Spoons For Dessert"....so many of the other pieces on taste buds and hearing, feeling, and seeing taste were amazing as well. Worth a read even if you don't use the recipes, although adding bitter back into our diets looks to be not just a trend but a possible health necessity.
116 reviews1 follower
January 24, 2015
This is the most exciting cookbook I've read in a long time. Not only does McLagan take time out from her delicious recipes to feed you tidbits of science and history, but almost every recipe challenged me to consider a new ingredient or a new way to make use of an old ingredient. I rarely purchase books--mostly I just borrow from the library--and even more rarely do I purchase books by authors unknown to me. But "Bitter" made it onto my wish list after the first chapter.
194 reviews3 followers
February 27, 2015
I was sent a copy of the book for review through Net Galley, as always, all opinions are my own.

I have yet to acquire a taste for bitter foods, but it isn’t from a lack of trying. I initially picked up this book to help me understand more about this flavor and I wasn’t disappointed. There is a wealth of information in these pages. The recipes that I’ve tried have been delicious and the photography is stunning. It’s a great addition to my cookbook collection.
Profile Image for Mich Must Read.
204 reviews13 followers
September 23, 2016
I love grapefruit, gin and tonic, unsweetened tea, a lot of things that my friends and family don't particularly like. I was really excited to see this book and was not disappointed. If your looking to branch out into food that has that bitter notes, this is your book. There are some really great recipes in here and the histories of the ingredients are wonderful. There are super simple recipes to get started and more complicated ones too.
Profile Image for John.
268 reviews10 followers
June 5, 2016
Partly a cookbook, partly a history of bitter flavors in foods (and medicines), and partly a discussion of the physiology and psychology of taste, this is a delightful book that entertained and informed me, and gave me some good ideas for the kitchen. Definitely something to keep around as a reference. Also, she has half a dozen recipes for cardoons! If I can ever find some, I will try them all.
Profile Image for Lynne Faubert.
249 reviews2 followers
December 28, 2016
I greatly admire this author for her out-of-the-box thinking and cooking. This is part of a series where she rehabilitates less popular foods or ones wrongly accused of every culinary sin. Her other books like Fat, Bones and Odd bits are some of the most interesting and informative out there. Worth exploring from cover to cover to break loose of the current food and health writing diktats.
Profile Image for Stacey.
248 reviews1 follower
April 4, 2015
I thought there was going to be more of a narrative, but it was just a cookbook. On the bright side, there photography was beautiful and the recipes were full of things I haven't ever heard of. I probably won't actually make anything, too fancypants.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews

Can't find what you're looking for?

Get help and learn more about the design.