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338 pages, Paperback
Published December 20, 2023
The coffee houses were full of men drinking the hard stuff, little cups of pure coffee grounds. They were men-only zones, you could tell. But nobody objected when we went in. We were obviously tourists, profitable idiots. It's good to be as tourist as possible in feuding countries, and with my American potato face we'd never be taken for locals. I look like the kid from the Far Side cartoons grown old, and those faces only grow in the USA.
The darkness, the weird heat, the disapproving statutes, all make Budapest a grimmer place than we remembered. The statues are the worst. I'd swear they didn't look this angry and defeated last time we were here. They're fed up, just about ready to clank off their podiums and start giving tourists the bronze backhand. There's a hussar up on the hilltop, near the History Museum, that actually glares at us flabby civilians as we trundle past. He's feeling the tip of his saber with one thumb, and you can tell that he'd love an excuse to try the edge on some fat neck.
It's one of those places they call "full of history," which means, roughly, "doomed". Hungary is half the size it was a century ago, with less than half the population. If you're young and can speak English, you leave. People say London is the second-biggest Hungarian city in the world now. What's left are the statues, too big and grim for this shrunken city, and old people walking little dogs.