Wild Atlantic Women: Walking Ireland's West Coast

by Gráinne Lyons

In 2019, at a crossroads in her own life, Gráinne Lyons decided to travel the Wild Atlantic Way on foot. Inspired by her great-grandmother who was a lacemaker on Cape Clear Island, Gráinne began her journey with an intention: to walk in the footsteps of other women deeply rooted in this Atlantic landscape and explore their lives along the way.

Beginning at the southernmost tip of Ireland, Gráinne heads north in a series of walks, each one focusing on the life of a different woman, some long gone, some living and working today. At Bantry Bay, she considers Ellen Hutchins, Ireland first female botanist. Walking the length of the Great Blasket Island, she looks beyond the stereotype in which Peig Sayers has been cast. In Clare, she explores the work of Edna O'Brien. Onwards then the warrior queen Grace O'Malley in Mayo, and the power of a great story with the matriarch Queen Meabh.

Time and again, she is reminded that, in its history, achievements and ambitions, this landscape is decidedly female. Writing with emotional honesty about the challenges and vulnerabilities of travelling alone, Gráinne Lyons asks what we can learn from these pioneering women and looks anew at Irish identity. WILD ATLANTIC WOMEN captivates and inspires the 21st-century reader to walk alongside these extraordinary west coast Irishwomen.

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, Ireland, History, Memoir, Feminism, Nature

248 pages, Paperback

Published April 9, 2024

Reviews

[Emma.catherine · Rating 4 out of 5]

This fascinating book tells us of Grainne Lyons’s epic journey along Irelands west coast - often known as the Wild Atlantic Way. As Grainne explains, when she set out on her journey of walking these coastal regions she was very conscious that she didn’t want to walk in the footsteps that many tourists have over the years - she wanted to find her own way to connect with the nature of our country and with that explore eleven of Irelands extraordinary pioneering women; starting with her great-grandmother, at the very sounder point of Cape Clear. As she walks through history, she celebrates the Irish landscape and culture, as well as her own identity.

I found this book very hard to put down; I think because of the nature of the book - it was a walking journey - that left you wanting to reach Grainne’s next destination…

She travelled the length of Ireland in the footsteps of incredible women from lacemakers to world renowned Big wave surfers. Depicting each character with wonderful accuracy but furthermore, Grainne described the natural state of the landscape; constantly bringing us back to modern day and her personal journey.

Reading her book has definitely inspired me to see more of the country I live in…noting places I intend to visits from Bantry bay to Connemara and back to places I have visited in the past, such as The Cliffs of Moher; I think I will see them in a new light (little did I know of Edna O’Brien - a world renowned author lived on these very cliffs!)

There is so much to say about this inspiring book, possibly because each women had such a powerful story to tell but one thing I was shocked to read was that by the end of the famine, around 2 million people of its 8.4 million had left, immigrating to New York and an estimated 1 million had died! And as the years passed, the emigration only continued…I guess if I had listened in History class I would have known this…but it history very was my thing 😂

And finally I must comment on the beautiful simplistic illustrations that are scattered throughout the book - a wonderful addition.

I would highly recommend this book to anyone - Irish or not! There is so much strength and knowledge to gain from this powerful path…

[Lita · Rating 4 out of 5]

A story of women written by a woman. Gráinne Lyons takes us on a series of walks or hikes along Ireland's West coast. While introducing the readers to Ireland's landscapes, she also immerses us into the lives of eleven Irish women (both living and long gone). It's an experience of Irish past and present through the lives, struggles, and victories of different and highly interesting personalities. From early scientists to writers, knitters, and even a surfer, the cast of women is truly diverse. Parallel to their life stories, Gráinne is also searching for answers about her own life. I'm not sure if I connected as well with the author's personal struggles with identity, belonging, and life choices, but I appreciated the effort.

[Charlie Outhwaite · Rating 5 out of 5]

Thoroughly enjoyed this book! I really liked the combination of the scenic nature of the walks and the insightful presentation of these incredible women. It was fascinating to learn about such unique women from throughout history. Each was presented with care and interest, and it worked really well to have the authors thoughts spread throughout. I really felt like I was along for the journey. I highly recommend!

[Santina Wey · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read most of this while traveling the Wild Atlantic Way, and it really came alive as I passed through many of the places mentioned. I struggled to get into it before the trip, but being in the landscape made all the difference.

The author’s personal reflections didn’t resonate as much with me, but the stories of the women were powerful and inspiring. Maude Delap’s story especially stuck with me — such a quietly strong and pioneering woman.

A great read if you’ve been to or are visiting the west of Ireland. It adds real depth to the journey.

[Charles Sheard · Rating 3 out of 5]

Closer to a 3.5, actually. Best things about this are not the book itself, but the subject matter: the west coast of Ireland, its history, and some of the important women of its past and present. But the writing just never seems to elevate the subject matter. I rarely got the sense of being there alongside her during her walks, nor did I get the sense that what she had to say about these women was that substantial. As she herself admits

I began to appreciate these women as actual people who lived actual lives, deeply entrenched in their environments, and to know that a few books read or a few days walking in these places could never really scratch the surface.

Yet that is all that what we are given, as readers: just a scratch of the surface of those lives and those environments.
To this, the author attempts to make connections to her own life at the end of each chapter (a bit formulaically), which for this reader at least didn't succeed.

If one is rather unfamiliar with the coast, or the stories of these women, then this might be more successful as a guide pointing to the very books that the author herself read, for indeed as she also admits, she too had no knowledge about several of these subjects before she started walking and writing. But I feel in many ways going straight to those sources would be a better investment, and more rewarding, or some of the other (though non-female oriented) works by other authors mentioned (including Tomás Ó Criomhthainn for the Blaskets, or Tim Robinson for Connemara and Aran, or John Millington Synge for Aran, including his play Riders To The Sea where they identify the drowned sailor by counting the stitches on his knitted socks: "It’s the second one of the third pair I knitted, and I put up three score stitches, and I dropped four of them." - which would have seemed an appropriate bit to weave into the chapter on Aran and knitting).

[Maura · Rating 4 out of 5]

Full disclosure - I didn't read all of the stories. I read the ones of areas I had a connection with and I really enjoyed them. The concept is lovely and it's important to shed light on the amazing lives of these women.

[Zarina · Rating 5 out of 5]

I got a copy of Wild Atlantic Women on a visit to Frome, at Sherlock & Pages a wonderful bookshop focusing on stories of conservation and English heritage. This was their book of the year and while I wouldn't normally have picked it up, I was curious to see what made this story one that came so highly recommended.

And when it came time to to select a book for my book club, I randomly added this one into the selection... and it got the most votes! So now a group of people in Hampshire have been reading a book recommended by a shop in Somerset, I love that.

Wild Atlantic Women was an absolutely wonderful book. I did read it in short snippets due to some life events, but each time I picked it up I was totally gripped by the stories of the incredible Irish women detailed within the pages. I loved learning about Ireland and its rich history (and stunning coastline) through their stories. Not in the least that of author Gráinne Lyons herself, who undertook the pilgrimage that she chronicles in her book. I could also really relate to her (after living a long time in London, not hitting the life milestones society still decrees upon women) – and it felt reassuring to not feel "alone" in that sense.

I really want to read this one again in a year or so, when some of the stories have faded a little more in my head and I can pick it up afresh (and do more research on each of the women featured as their mentions within this book did only just scratch the surface). As I don't think I got quite the same out of it had I read it all in one go. But it's still one of my fav book club reads to date. 4.5 stars.

[Kate · Rating 5 out of 5]

A really beautifully-written reflection on history, femininity, connection to nature, and the way in which we mythologize ourselves and the past. Lyons combines travelogue, historical prose, and personal analysis to tell the story of her own journey and that of a dozen Irish women who came before her. Along the way, she provides historically-rich commentary on sexism, climate change, Irish struggles, and modern life. Lyons is self-critical of the way that she, and history in general, craft certain, reductive, narratives about the women of the past. It adds depth and humility to her work. Her prose in incredibly raw, intimate, and touching. The entire book is rich with vivid descriptions of the Irish landscape that flow off of the page. I wanted, like Lyons, to know more about each of the women she walks with.

"As I drift off to sleep, deep in the forest, it occurs to me that my search for Ellen Hutchin's life has mirrored her personality, her experience easily missed to all but the curious - just like the quiet non-flowering seaweeds, mosses, liverworts and lichens she collected. She has opened up a new world for me - of the huge variety of species here on the coasts of West Cork that I begin to see as she once did: studded with the treasures of nature. I admire her greatly - not only for her huge contributions to our scientific understandings of this coastline, but also for finding a way, through her love for botany, to freedom from her day-to-day oppressions."

[Daria · Rating 4 out of 5]

I picked this book up based on a very surface-level assessment: Irish, written by a woman, about Irish women, about walking the Irish coast I was then visiting. Seemed perfect, with its blue cover to match my equally surface-level preferences. As I began to read, travelling from Cork to Galway, I was delighted with how nicely it worked out thematically. I was enjoying it, but suspected it wouldn't bring me anything deeper than this satisfaction, plus a few recommendations for my further reading on all things Irish.
However, I have to admit I was wrong. The book grew on me, and the author did too. I was seeing more of my thoughts and feelings in her writing than I expected, learning about women that maybe I would've learned about anyway, but was glad to meet via this specific compilation. I like few things more than one reading or watching experience inspiring many more, reminding me about the vastness of the world outside my own head, reminding me I'm not done getting to know it yet, that I could still get excited about it. But that's more about me than about the book that, ultimately, I'd recommend to most. Maybe not everyone, because, if you have previous knowledge of these women, perhaps have read the books the author cites, and know the places she visits, this may not give you much more than a quick, pleasant read. It is, I feel, a book written from an outsider's perspective that might land best with other outsiders like myself.

[Apurva · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5⭐️s

3.5 stars

Wild Atlantic Women by Gráinne Lyons is a comforting and quietly inspiring read. I picked it up before my trip to Ireland’s west coast, and it added a meaningful layer to the landscape I was about to explore.

Part personal journey, part historical reflection, the book follows Lyons as she hikes the rugged western coast of Ireland, reconnecting with her Irish roots while uncovering stories of trailblazing women tied to this region. It all begins with her own great-grandmother, a prolific but largely forgotten lace maker, which then leads her to uncover more women—storytellers, botanists, surfers, and even a famous queen/pirate.

What stood out was how these women weren’t openly subversive or rebellious, but rather expanded the boundaries of what was expected of them within the social norms of their time. The tone is gentle rather than provocative, and Lyons weaves her personal reflections seamlessly with these historical vignettes.

It’s not a deeply academic or radical text, but one that feels intimate and thoughtful—perfect for anyone wanting to pair a reflective read with travels along Ireland’s wild Atlantic edge.

[Lisa Wynne · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this read. Exploring the lives of interesting women alongside exploring the walking trails of the Wild Atlantic Way - it’s a great combo! Over and above the actual walks (loosely - it’s not a trail guide) described, placing these figures in their environments make both the people are the places all the more rich and resonant. Recalling the lives of people from different period of history is such a lovely way to reflect on how places link us to history and past generations. It’s lovely to read familiar places through new eyes, and I’m all the more keen to visit the places I haven’t yet (not that the Great Blasket wasn’t already on my list!).

[Reader · Rating 4 out of 5]

I became completely swept up in Grainne Lyons search for meaning and purpose as she walked the West Coast of Ireland and learned of the indomitable women who had been there before her. This is a book that will have you reaching for the travel guides to holidays on this windswept and beautiful part of the world but will also give you pause to consider the role of women and how for so long they have been left out of literature and history and their contribution considered less than their male counterparts. A lovely book that echoes the themes I have found recently in 'A Hard Way' by Susannah Walker and 'Homesick: Why I Live In A Shed' by Catrina Davies.

[Kaitlin · Rating 5 out of 5]

I absolutely adored this book! The author brings together stories of fascinating women throughout Irish history, descriptions of the irish landscape that feel incredibly real, and reflrctions on her personal life and modern life in general with rich storytelling. Her writing was filled with introspection and reflection on what it has meant to be a woman throughout Irish history, and how we craft and handle stories about women. Her descriptions of the Irish coastlines brought me back to my trip there this summer, and made me excited for future trips where I can explore more of this beautiful country.

[Katie O'Sullivan]

I picked up this book, hoping to learn more about the history of the islands and about the mythology of the Sligo landscape. However, the historical content was quite surface level, and the musings that followed revealed nothing new. This was certainly more in the memoir vein than I anticipated.

While this book was light on historical substance, I would still consider it an easy book to dip into, one which would suit a tourist travelling the Wild Atlantic Way or the son/daughter of an Irish immigrant. Overall, this is a pleasant introduction to the West Coast, one which would benefit someone who did not grow up in Ireland and has little knowledge of Irish history.

[Susanfeight · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful Read

I read this book after seeing the author on a YouTube video from Sherlock & Pages, a new independent bookshop in Somerset UK. The book is a wonderful history of women of the west coast of Ireland. But also the authors maybe self discovery during her walks? Plus the descriptions of the coast… oh so lovely.. I don’t usually write reviews but this book is one that leaves you thinking - just read it! By the way, I have never been to Ireland, at least not yet.

[Kirstin · Rating 3 out of 5]

A really interesting and insightful book about women in Ireland's history, past and present who live/lived on Ireland's West Coast.
I certainly learned a lot about these mostly unconventional women ( in their time) and I could also relate to author Grainne Lyons, as like her my choice in life was/is not to be married or have children - choices that are certainly a lot easier for women now than the women Grainne writes about in her travels.

It was a really good read and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

[Liz Webster · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book. Having driven the Wild Atlantic Way in 2023 in our motorhome, I could totally relate to the landscape, the weather and the people. Gráinne’s insight into the lives of these pioneering women along the Way was fascinating and informative. The book really captured the essence of life along the rugged Wild Atlantic coast of Ireland, its beauty and its hardships.

[Susie · Rating 4 out of 5]

What a lovely way of turning a personal project into a book. I learnt a lot about Irish women and love the focus on nature. What I would have loved even more would have been little maps to show the routes the author took, as I am sure I'm not the only reader who would consider doing some of the walks!

[Maria · Rating 5 out of 5]

Purchased this in Dublin a few months back and I ended up loving this even more than I expected! A really beautiful and compelling exploration of nature, Irish history and identity, womanhood, nationality, climate change, and more. Just totally up my alley and I’m sure I’ll return to this in future.

[katelyn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Met the author at the start of the week at a podcast event. Really liked the mapping of the narratives (using Kate O’Brien’s travelogue from the 60s) and the focus on historical feminine crafts such as the traditional lacemaking and knitting Aran geansaí, something you don’t often see. For example. I didn’t know that the first person to breed jellyfish for science was an Irish woman! Themes of climate change and protecting the Atlantic ecosystem (especially about the southern kelp forests) were nicely threaded throughout the book which may seem like a random addition- promise they fit nicely. Short read, would recommend.

Personal preference note: Thought the author’s speculations and opinions about these women where historical sources were absent were overdone at times.

[Jan Madden · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed this title book and I liked her writing. I think I would probably have enjoyed it more if I had known some of the places she visited on her journey. The tales she told were interesting and the links to her family were lovely.

[Liz Gelling · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading about the Irish landscapes and the women whose stories are told. A little out of my comfort zone reading non fiction and I was more interested in some stories than others, but overall enjoyed this book

[Meg · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just loved this look at the west coast of Ireland through the lens of a wide variety of heroic and ordinary Irish women, including some still living. I knew of some, but so many were new to me. Or was it a look at these women's lives through the lens of the landscape? Either way, a great read.

[Robyn Harrison · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not a lot about walking Ireland's West Coast, but interesting information about relatively unknown women in history who came from that area. There is also a lot of introspection by the author--she did nice work weaving it all together.

[Amber · Rating 4 out of 5]

In my quest to find books about Ireland, this book popped up. I liked it. I liked the mix of the land and the women’s histories. Such a small portion of Ireland but was also a good introduction to its vastness.

[Sailaway · Rating 4 out of 5]

very good

[Mairead · Rating 3 out of 5]

Pleasant

[Jean · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this armchair hiking tour of the west of Ireland alongside a focus of noteworthy women from that area. It would have been helpful to have a hand-drawn map to accompany each chapter’s hike.

[Marianne · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was a fantastic read! It transports you to Ireland and into the lives of some amazing women past and present. Highly recommend.

[Imani Copeland]

Sherlock&Pages Best Seller